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Foodies may never want to leave the Basque Country, where the avant-garde and home cooking mingle seamlessly. Though top restaurants are expensive in Bilbao, some of what is undoubtedly Europe's finest cuisine is served here in settings that range from the traditional hewn beams and stone walls to sleekly contemporary internatio
Foodies may never want to leave the Basque Country, where the avant-garde and home cooking mingle seamlessly. Though top restaurants are expensive in Bilbao, some of what is undoubtedly Europe's finest cuisine is served here in settings that range from the traditional h
Foodies may never want to leave the Basque Country, where the avant-garde and home cooking mingle seamlessly. Though top
Foodies may never want to leave the Basque Country, where the avant-garde and home cooking mingle seamlessly. Though top restaurants are expensive in Bilbao, some of what is undoubtedly Europe's finest cuisine is served here in settings that range from the traditional hewn beams and stone walls to sleekly contemporary international restaurants all the way up to the Guggenheim itself, where superstar chef Martín Berasategui runs a dining room as superb as its habitat. San Sebastián is another enclave of delicious food, where sampling from pintxos bars is an art form.
In 2022, Spain's oldest churrería—perhaps Pamplona's top culinary attraction—rang in 150 years. In this hole-in-the-wall resembling a medieval foundry, hypnotic whorls of dough fry to crackly perfection in vats of Navarran extra-virgin olive oil set over beechwood flame. La Mañueta keeps bizarre hours: 7–11 am on Sundays in October, 8–11:30 am on the two Saturdays prior to San Fermín, and 6–11 am during San Fermín week.
This bright, modern bar is a great spot to try seasonal, market-fresh tapas like heirloom tomato salad with chilies and raw onion or cheesy mushroom "carpaccio," but locals flock here for one dish in particular: oreja a la plancha, griddled pig's ear swimming in punchy brava (spicy) sauce. Shatteringly crisp and unapologetically rich, it's one of the best versions you'll have in Spain.
Calle de San Agustín 10, Logroño, La Rioja, 26001, Spain
A perennial local favorite, this rustic spot has been roasting lamb in wood ovens since 1877 and serves a hearty menestra de verduras (vegetables stewed with bits of ham) that is justly revered as a mandatory sidekick. With rough hand-hewn wooden tables distributed around dark stone and wood-beam dining rooms, the medieval stagecoach-inn environment matches the traditional roasts.
Calle Lucrecia Arana 17, Haro, La Rioja, 26200, Spain
Tondeluna has six communal tables (with 10 seats each), and all have views into the kitchen, where cooks plate dishes novel and familiar like glazed beef cheeks with apple puree and Getaria-style hake with melty panadera (thinly sliced and roasted) potatoes.
Calle Muro de la Mata 9, Logroño, La Rioja, 26001, Spain
Chef José Miguel Olazabalaga's Aizian is anything but a "hotel restaurant," even if it's situated inside the Meliá Bilbao. Sure, his dishes err on the staid side—you won't find tweezed microgreens and dry-ice displays here—but they're dependably delicious: think sautéed wild mushrooms topped with foie gras and a runny egg or seared venison loin with beets and smoked chestnut puree.
With creaky wood floors, bare brick walls, and ancient beams and coats of arms, this 15th-century inn turns out classical Castilian and Basque specialties reflective of the region. Try the cochinillo lechal (roast suckling pig) or any of the monkfish preparations. The wine cellar is a gold mine. To reserve a tasting menu, priced at around €55, be sure to call at least two days ahead.
This warm, family-run restaurant in a stately mansion with a classically elegant interior is one of Pamplona's foremost addresses for refined cuisine. There's something for everyone on the diverse, internationally inflected menu, whose highlights include baby artichokes with langoustine tails and stewed Tolosa red beans.
Pl. Príncipe de Viana 1, Pamplona, Navarre, 31002, Spain
Pamplona's poshest restaurant, in the hotel of the same name, the Europa offers refined, Michelin-starred Navarrese cooking with reasonably priced à la carte dishes as well as excellent tasting menus. The small and bright first-floor dining room is the perfect backdrop to dishes like slow-cooked lamb and pork—and what might be the best bacalao al pil pil you'll ever taste.
Calle Espoz y Mina 11, Pamplona, Navarre, 31002, Spain
Rub shoulders with small-town riojanos as you tuck into a bowl of caparrones, a local stew made with Riojan red beans, sausage, and fatback. The house wine is an acceptable and inexpensive Uruñuela cosechero (young wine of the year) from the Najerilla Valley. Families will appreciate the children's play area and Saturday activities.
Ctra. de Lerma (N14), Km 42, Anguiano, La Rioja, 26322, Spain
Locals know that this nondescript salón de juegos (literally "gambling hall") slings some of the city's best potato omelets, flipped nonstop from 8 am to midnight. The basic potato-and-onion rendition, gloriously gooey in the center, will set you back €2; more deluxe versions (with crab, jamón ibérico, etc.) are a tad pricier. Minors are not allowed entry, but the staff will happily wrap food to go.
Calle General Concha 1, Bilbao, Basque Country, Spain
A Calle del Laurel standby, this refined taberna with wood-paneled walls serves Riojan specialties like cochinillo asado (roast suckling pig) and pimentón-laced potatoes a la riojana (potato and chorizo stew). The neighboring La Brasa de Laurel (at No.16) is run by the same team and centers on high-end grilled meats and fish.
Calle del Laurel 3, Logroño, La Rioja, 26001, Spain
Roast lamb cooked over wood coals is the specialty in this rustic taberna, but alubias (stewed kidney beans) and migas de pastor (literally, "shepherd's bread crumbs," cooked with garlic and sausage) are hard to resist. The wine list, not surprisingly, is stocked with most of La Rioja's top finds, from Roda I to Barón de Chirel Reserva.
Calle República Argentina 8, Logroño, La Rioja, 26002, Spain
For some of Haro's most authentic La Rioja cooking, based on prime local products and domestic recipes, Daoíz Ibáñez is the man to see. His little tavern is strewn with decorative wine presses and anchored by a huge wood fireplace. The restaurant is famed for lamb and beef dishes of every kind and vegetable specialties from peppers to eggplant to artichokes. Pochas con chorizo (garbanzos with chorizo sausage), acelgas con revoltillo de setas (chard and eggs scrambled with wild mushrooms), and chuletón a la brasa (beef cooked over coals) are among the favorites here.
C. Las Cuevas 2, Haro, La Rioja, 26200, Spain
941-312815
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, No dinner Sun.
Cándida Calleja's upstairs perch over the intersection of the Calle and Travesía del Laurel tapas-grazing scene is close enough to the action below but removed enough to be pleasant. Memorable dishes include jamón ibérico de bellota (acorn-fed ham) or revuelto de gambas y puntas de espárragos trigueros (eggs scrambled with shrimp and wild asparagus tips). If trout is on the menu, don't hesitate: Cándida knows how to cook it. The downstairs bar serves excellent sepia (cuttlefish) with cool hits of Rojanda, La Rueda's own fresh young white wine.
Travesía del Laurel 1, Logroño, La Rioja, 26001, Spain
941-227986
Restaurant Details
Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Closed Sun. and Aug.
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