Paris in Winter ... with Dietary Retsrictions
#1
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Paris in Winter ... with Dietary Retsrictions
This might be a challenge. DP and I will be going to Paris late Feb/early March. I’ve read the threads about favorite things to do and so many of them involve strolling and sitting in outdoor cafes. That sounds so wonderful, but unless I’m exceptionally lucky with the weather, I don’t expect to be doing too much of these things in late February. (We’ll wear lots of layers, but even doing so, we both got sick after strolling in NYC early December—and at times it was just too bitter cold to enjoy.)
At another time of year, walking miles and miles, and soaking in the city would be our preference, but because we had no option about the timing (we’ll be coming after working in Ireland), we chose Paris because of the plethora of museums where we can stay warm.
So … what are your favorite WINTER activities in Paris?
Our “must-see” list already includes a tour of the catacombs, Musee D’Orsay, the Louvre, Notre Dame, and a day trip to Versailles. We’ll have 5-1/2 days (and no jet lag, coming from Ireland) and that’s enough art museums for me. Looking at my list, it might already be enough to fill all of our time! Maybe a tour of the sewers?
Oh … and a second question.
I have strict dietary limitations due to health issues: no sugar; alcohol; coffee; no seafood; and very little fat. Sampling pastries, sipping wine, lingering over coffee in a charming café, drinking rich hot cocoa and nibbling macaroons will definitely not be happening.
Any restaurant suggestions? Places that serve simple, healthy food? (salads, grilled or roast chicken, steamed vegetables …) We’ll be staying in the Marais (the 4th).
It would be much easier if we had a little apartment (which we usually do), but not speaking the language, DP felt more comfortable with staying in a hotel where we can ask questions of the desk clerks.
Have I chosen the wrong city?
PS. I've been off of sugar and alcohol for thirty years. But I’ve only recently had to add coffee to the list of no-no’s. The jury is still out on whether life is still worth living ;-).
At another time of year, walking miles and miles, and soaking in the city would be our preference, but because we had no option about the timing (we’ll be coming after working in Ireland), we chose Paris because of the plethora of museums where we can stay warm.
So … what are your favorite WINTER activities in Paris?
Our “must-see” list already includes a tour of the catacombs, Musee D’Orsay, the Louvre, Notre Dame, and a day trip to Versailles. We’ll have 5-1/2 days (and no jet lag, coming from Ireland) and that’s enough art museums for me. Looking at my list, it might already be enough to fill all of our time! Maybe a tour of the sewers?
Oh … and a second question.
I have strict dietary limitations due to health issues: no sugar; alcohol; coffee; no seafood; and very little fat. Sampling pastries, sipping wine, lingering over coffee in a charming café, drinking rich hot cocoa and nibbling macaroons will definitely not be happening.
Any restaurant suggestions? Places that serve simple, healthy food? (salads, grilled or roast chicken, steamed vegetables …) We’ll be staying in the Marais (the 4th).
It would be much easier if we had a little apartment (which we usually do), but not speaking the language, DP felt more comfortable with staying in a hotel where we can ask questions of the desk clerks.
Have I chosen the wrong city?
PS. I've been off of sugar and alcohol for thirty years. But I’ve only recently had to add coffee to the list of no-no’s. The jury is still out on whether life is still worth living ;-).
#2
Joined: Oct 2003
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First, Paris usually isn't bitterly cold - much more likely to be chilly, perhaps with rain. Not much real cold or heavy snow.
And many of the larger cafes have outdoor heaters - so there will likely still be places where you can sit and enjoy a hot tea while your DP can enjoy something else.
It is possible to have simple roast chicken or steak in almost any brasserie in Paris - just focus on getting a veggie instead of fries and a salad with it.
And there are lots of other choices - just make sure you don;t go to places that specialize in very elegant dishes with lots of sauces. Also you mention seafood - are you including all fish in that - since there are many places in Paris where you can get either ocean or freshwater fish simply prepared.
And many of the larger cafes have outdoor heaters - so there will likely still be places where you can sit and enjoy a hot tea while your DP can enjoy something else.
It is possible to have simple roast chicken or steak in almost any brasserie in Paris - just focus on getting a veggie instead of fries and a salad with it.
And there are lots of other choices - just make sure you don;t go to places that specialize in very elegant dishes with lots of sauces. Also you mention seafood - are you including all fish in that - since there are many places in Paris where you can get either ocean or freshwater fish simply prepared.
#3

Joined: Jan 2003
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It's very unlikely to be terribly cold in Paris in February, and there are always myriad places to duck into to escape inclement weather. Plenty of cafés have outdoor heaters - if they don't, go inside.
Food's not an issue, either. I can barely think of a single Parisian café, bistro, brasserie, or restaurant where you wouldn't be spoiled for choices even with your limitations.
I really don't see any issues here.
Food's not an issue, either. I can barely think of a single Parisian café, bistro, brasserie, or restaurant where you wouldn't be spoiled for choices even with your limitations.
I really don't see any issues here.
#4
Joined: Jan 2010
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By all means add St. Chapelle to your list of things to see. Go on a sunny day to see the wonderful stained glass at its best.
Don't worry about the language or the food. Most in hotels and restaurants and tourist venues speak English. You have chosen a wonderful place for 5 days.
If you drink tea or herbal tea, take some with you to enjoy when you stop in cafes to warm up.
Don't worry about the language or the food. Most in hotels and restaurants and tourist venues speak English. You have chosen a wonderful place for 5 days.
If you drink tea or herbal tea, take some with you to enjoy when you stop in cafes to warm up.
#5

Joined: Jul 2010
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Agree with above although the list of restrictions would take a lot of the fun out of for me (cuz it's mostly about the food and wine for me, and I want cheese, fat, sugar and alcohol). I am sure my own health issues are on the way!
What other cities were in the running? I am sure you can find food simply made in any city. I would still recommend an apartment to control the food issues (pick up a roast chicken for dinner), but we never use any hotel services and are pretty independent.
Maybe an evening concert at Ste Chapelle would be nice...beautiful setting!
I think you got sick in NYC because you picked up virus and that can happen anywhere., especially on an airplane! I know we do get sick in Europe more often than at home and based on what I understand about viruses and epidemiology, you will run into different variants of viruses as you travel and you will have less immunity to them. I don't think it's because you got cold. But yes, layers are a must and I love those air activated hand warmers for cold days. Stick them in your packets to stay warm...they also make them for your feet and body but the ones for hands are all I really need.
What other cities were in the running? I am sure you can find food simply made in any city. I would still recommend an apartment to control the food issues (pick up a roast chicken for dinner), but we never use any hotel services and are pretty independent.
Maybe an evening concert at Ste Chapelle would be nice...beautiful setting!
I think you got sick in NYC because you picked up virus and that can happen anywhere., especially on an airplane! I know we do get sick in Europe more often than at home and based on what I understand about viruses and epidemiology, you will run into different variants of viruses as you travel and you will have less immunity to them. I don't think it's because you got cold. But yes, layers are a must and I love those air activated hand warmers for cold days. Stick them in your packets to stay warm...they also make them for your feet and body but the ones for hands are all I really need.
#6
Joined: Feb 2006
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i was going to say - tea! anywhere you can get coffee you can get tea - I've even seen teens sitting around drinking it. it's also quite acceptable to buy a mineral water, or a "citron/orange presse" [pronounced pressay] which is fresh lemon/orange juice served with water and sugar to taste - you just leave out the sugar!
that's drinks taken care of - now for the food. can you eat eggs? almost anywhere will make you an omelette, or grill you a piece of fish, and "salades composees" [that's salad composay] are very popular - lots of mixed salad and veg with grilled chicken or tuna or...
you could do a search for restaurants around the area where you are going to stay and look at their menus [most will be on line] or look at this website to see what is available around Paris - you can select for vegetarian or whatever you like:
http://www.thefork.com/1_restaurant/Paris_restaurant/1/
have a wonderful trip!
that's drinks taken care of - now for the food. can you eat eggs? almost anywhere will make you an omelette, or grill you a piece of fish, and "salades composees" [that's salad composay] are very popular - lots of mixed salad and veg with grilled chicken or tuna or...
you could do a search for restaurants around the area where you are going to stay and look at their menus [most will be on line] or look at this website to see what is available around Paris - you can select for vegetarian or whatever you like:
http://www.thefork.com/1_restaurant/Paris_restaurant/1/
have a wonderful trip!
#7
Joined: Aug 2011
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Everyone has made good posts, you have very little to worry about ( what on earth do Americans think French people eat all day, they eat grilled meats and chickens, salads and drink tea too, its not all bearnaise sauce, snails and cheese, lol )
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#8
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Thank you all so much for your responses. I'm much relieved! So many trip reports focus on the food and wines and desserts that I started to think it might be difficult to find simple, boring, um, er ... I mean, "healthy" meals. And Saint Chapelle is definitely on the list--just forgot to include it in the post.
In terms of the cold ... bear in mind that I'll be coming from Hawaii. So "cold" is relative -- and I don't deal well with it. I split my time between Kauai and Nashville--and I'm FREEZING in Nashville--but I don't wander the streets for hours. But it sounds like Paris should be fine.
The hotel (St. Paul Le Marais) has already been paid for--so switching to an apartment is not an option. And no point in rehashing the cities I'd considered because it's finally all settled.
Again, thanks so much for your responses. I'm sure I'll have more questions as it gets closer.
In terms of the cold ... bear in mind that I'll be coming from Hawaii. So "cold" is relative -- and I don't deal well with it. I split my time between Kauai and Nashville--and I'm FREEZING in Nashville--but I don't wander the streets for hours. But it sounds like Paris should be fine.
The hotel (St. Paul Le Marais) has already been paid for--so switching to an apartment is not an option. And no point in rehashing the cities I'd considered because it's finally all settled.
Again, thanks so much for your responses. I'm sure I'll have more questions as it gets closer.
#9
Joined: Aug 2011
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Everyones posts are great.
You will have little to no problems you can't avoid.
All restaurants/cafes/ bistros etc must by law display their menus OUTSIDE so you can easily see whats on offer before you go in.. great, wish we did that here.
Many places have terrrace heaters. and its not likely to be as cold as NY anyways.
Teas, tisanes are available almost at any cafe I have been to, as well as Coke Light ( not diet coke).
They also have sugarless syrops you can add to water for drinks.
I prefer to drink tap water in France its free with food, but i treat myself to Badoit water once in awhile, its bubbly but very tiny bubbles not so fizzy as say Perrier.
Salads , i love the nicoise and composees ,, they can be lunch easily for me.
I do find fries to be the usual accompaniment for steaks and chicken in simpler places, but think perhaps some would sub rice (riz) or salad ,, maybe,, just ask they won't kill you.. you may get a sniff or two, since subbing food is not always done, but even in France people have diet restrictions so its not like you will be the only one who has ever asked.
You will have little to no problems you can't avoid.
All restaurants/cafes/ bistros etc must by law display their menus OUTSIDE so you can easily see whats on offer before you go in.. great, wish we did that here.
Many places have terrrace heaters. and its not likely to be as cold as NY anyways.
Teas, tisanes are available almost at any cafe I have been to, as well as Coke Light ( not diet coke).
They also have sugarless syrops you can add to water for drinks.
I prefer to drink tap water in France its free with food, but i treat myself to Badoit water once in awhile, its bubbly but very tiny bubbles not so fizzy as say Perrier.
Salads , i love the nicoise and composees ,, they can be lunch easily for me.
I do find fries to be the usual accompaniment for steaks and chicken in simpler places, but think perhaps some would sub rice (riz) or salad ,, maybe,, just ask they won't kill you.. you may get a sniff or two, since subbing food is not always done, but even in France people have diet restrictions so its not like you will be the only one who has ever asked.
#10
Joined: Jan 2003
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Lots of concerts and theatrical performances in the winter, which is the main cultural season in Paris as in many cities. One caveat about the evening concerts at Sainte Chapelle- it can be very cold in there, a large and unheated space.
I have fond memories of a terrific salad at La Tartine in the Marais, at 24 rue de Rivoli. There were several choices, and I hope to make it back there for lunch on my next visit.
I have fond memories of a terrific salad at La Tartine in the Marais, at 24 rue de Rivoli. There were several choices, and I hope to make it back there for lunch on my next visit.
#11


Joined: May 2003
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#12
Joined: Mar 2008
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I lived in Paris for a few years. Some of my favourite places were:
Musee Marmottan (has a massive collection of Matisse paintings), and it's in a pretty house overlooking some gardens in the 16th arrondissement, near the Bois de Boulogne (good for a walk in the park)
Musee Carnavalet (free museum focusing on the history of Paris)
Musee des Arts et Metiers (a museum focusing on science in industry)
Pack at least two pairs of good walking shoes, since one pair might get wet. Although, as others have mentioned, it's unlikely to be super-cold, it could be drizzly cold, and you'll want to have dry shoes to change into.
Musee Marmottan (has a massive collection of Matisse paintings), and it's in a pretty house overlooking some gardens in the 16th arrondissement, near the Bois de Boulogne (good for a walk in the park)
Musee Carnavalet (free museum focusing on the history of Paris)
Musee des Arts et Metiers (a museum focusing on science in industry)
Pack at least two pairs of good walking shoes, since one pair might get wet. Although, as others have mentioned, it's unlikely to be super-cold, it could be drizzly cold, and you'll want to have dry shoes to change into.
#13


Joined: May 2003
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Agree with Musee Marmottan and Bois de Boulogne.
Also, take the Metro #1 to the eastern terminus and check out Chateau Vincennes. http://en.chateau-vincennes.fr/
Also, take the Metro #1 to the eastern terminus and check out Chateau Vincennes. http://en.chateau-vincennes.fr/
#14

Joined: Jul 2010
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I do recommend water resistant boots for walking around in winter! Dry feet are key to staying warm.
Try to schedule Sainte Chappelle for a sunny day to really appreciate the stained glass. If you do go for an evening concert, you will definitely like having the hand warmers.
My fav thing we did in winter was eating Berthillon ice cream in the snow in the park behinf Notre Dame...between the dietary issues and your "love" of cold weather, I don't think that will make your to do list. ;-)
Try to schedule Sainte Chappelle for a sunny day to really appreciate the stained glass. If you do go for an evening concert, you will definitely like having the hand warmers.
My fav thing we did in winter was eating Berthillon ice cream in the snow in the park behinf Notre Dame...between the dietary issues and your "love" of cold weather, I don't think that will make your to do list. ;-)
#15
Joined: Dec 2003
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We once ducked into the sewer tour in Paris in the winter. It was pouring rain, freezing cold, and we couldn't find the entrance to the catacombs. The sewer tour entrance was right there, and I believe it was part of our museum pass, so in we went, just to get out of the rain.
It turned out to be quite interesting. We were reading Les Miserables on that trip so it fit right in with our reading. It isn't stinky down there and the tour guide was wonderfully informative. The mechanics of how they clean the tunnels was fascinating. Never thought I would recommend a sewer tour but it was worthwhile.
As for the cold, be sure to take a cute hat and treat yourself to a gorgeous scarf when you get there as a souvenir that you can wear while you sightsee.
Here is another winter tip: If your hotel has rooms with bathtubs instead of showers, ask for one. We've done four winter trips to Europe and one of my favorite activities is to buy a fancy bottle of bubble bath in a new scent wherever we go and come back to the room for a hot,luxurious soak in that dark and dreary time when the sun goes down but it isn't time for dinner yet ( between 5:00-7:00). I always bring home a bottle of the same bubble bath so that I can be reminded of each trip by the scent memory.
Finally, if you do get sick, visit a French pharmacy. On one trip my husband had a horrible cough and the pharmacist was so helpful.
It turned out to be quite interesting. We were reading Les Miserables on that trip so it fit right in with our reading. It isn't stinky down there and the tour guide was wonderfully informative. The mechanics of how they clean the tunnels was fascinating. Never thought I would recommend a sewer tour but it was worthwhile.
As for the cold, be sure to take a cute hat and treat yourself to a gorgeous scarf when you get there as a souvenir that you can wear while you sightsee.
Here is another winter tip: If your hotel has rooms with bathtubs instead of showers, ask for one. We've done four winter trips to Europe and one of my favorite activities is to buy a fancy bottle of bubble bath in a new scent wherever we go and come back to the room for a hot,luxurious soak in that dark and dreary time when the sun goes down but it isn't time for dinner yet ( between 5:00-7:00). I always bring home a bottle of the same bubble bath so that I can be reminded of each trip by the scent memory.
Finally, if you do get sick, visit a French pharmacy. On one trip my husband had a horrible cough and the pharmacist was so helpful.
#16
Joined: Oct 2003
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Just being out in the cold won;t make you sick (unless it's arctic like Siberia and you get frostbite) - it's the germs on the plane (recirculated air) that makes a lot of people come down with colds.
Best to keep hydrated and avoid alcohol. And carry some Purel or similar and wash your hands after touching anything on the plane and before eating.
Best to keep hydrated and avoid alcohol. And carry some Purel or similar and wash your hands after touching anything on the plane and before eating.




