13 nights - golfing and sightseeing scotland and london/cotswolds!
Jun 2nd, 2018 | 11:59 AM
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13 nights - golfing and sightseeing scotland and london/cotswolds!
Four friends starting working on this vacation about a year before our departure in May, 2018. My wife and I retired (we are not golfers) - last year after selling our TPA firm. The husband of the other couple is a very low handicap golfer. This was a joint golfing and sightseeing trip. Places stayed - mostly 4 stars with excellent local flavor.We live in Texas. Restaurants - love dry reds and excellent meals. Being obsessive, I start making plane, restaurant (at least try) and hotel reservations 11-12 months in advance. Looked at rain days and temp to determine best time to visit Scotland, London and Cotswold's. My wife and I made a similar trip several years ago.Generally, our favorite time to visit Europe is the end of September and first of October. Selected May this time because of favorable weather outlook andlower AMEX point requirements for air travel.UK is always iffy as far as rain is concerned but we were fortunate. High 40s/50s at night and 60s/70s during day. Certainly had some rain, but we were fortunate weather wise.Big shock - now running 100 in Texas.
One person loved whisky, one enjoyed but not loved, the other two hated.We all enjoy a nice bottle of dry red.
We were very pleased with some outstanding meals.I take back the things I thought about UK food. Beautifully prepared and served.They still need to work on their hamburgers (please don't tell me not to order hamburgers overseas).Dry and tasteless.I still don't know why they do not offer a selection of salad dressings.
I do place a premium on operational ease.Therefore, some of the choices I made are not necessarily the least expense. FYI I tip about half of what I would expect to tip in the States for the same service-maybe high maybe low.Oh well!
Would classify our hotel and restaurant choices as high moderate or would that be low high. Well, you get the idea.I made the hotel reservations both directly through the hotels or Expedia - depending on prices and restrictions.
We had vacationed in Ireland a few years ago with the same couple - also a golfing and sightseeing trip. Does our golfer prefer the Scottish or Irish links?
Thanks Fodor's and TripAdvisor contributors for assistance. Just wish some of the responders would "lose the attitude".Was not like that early on.
TRAVELING WITH FRIENDS
Have never had major problems traveling with friends. We do stress flexibility. FINANCE suggestion -- we used a VISA card to charge all group expenses - e.g., meals, entrance tickets.We just divided up the statement after returning - no separate checks.AND, we appoint a treasurer.We give the treasurer s (technically an English's merchant does not have to accept Scottish banknotes - they took ours anyway) for cash requirements -- e.g., entrance fees, tours.CANCELLATIONS -- previously we have had some cancellation problems.Once a person or couple commits, they must be responsible (unless a replacement can be found) for their portion of prepaid nonrefundable expenses or changes due to their cancellation.
AIRLINES
We use AMEX points with Delta and fly first/business class. I start making reservations 11 months ahead of time.We had a per passenger choice of 140k or 155k.Selected the 155k because I wanted to try Virgin Atlantic - including the Heathrow lounge (which you can also use if you are booked on Delta business class that day).
DELTA RECOMMEND.We departed for Edinburgh on a flight from Texas to Atlanta. Recommend spending free time in their new ATL lounge adjacent to B18.Much larger, better food, newer and nicer than international lounges (except no observation deck).
Departed for Amsterdam on a A330-300 that evening. Nice business class seats, pleasant flight attendants and just a 'plane' nice flight.We decided to reserve 2J and 3J even though we were traveling together.Worked well.I requested the entire meal be served at one time -- and before first bite, took half a sleeping aid.
VIRGIN ATLANTICRECOMMEND.Flew Virgin between Heathrow and Atlanta. No negative issues - except business class seats. All of the Virgin ground and flight crews could not have been more helpful. We traveled on a A340-600 and that business class is just not up to today's standards. Plane does have the 3 seat bar area -- which we never used.Had flight VS103 departing at 11am. Left the Chesterfield hotel at 7am and arrived Heathrow before 8am.
Used the "Wing" quick check-in and that is so nice.Tried to call the Europe number (+44 344 412 4666) when we departed the hotel and did not go through. If you are on a Delta flight, you call a similar number in the States.I decided to call the USA number (when the UK number did not work) as well (800 985 8706) because it is more efficient entering the Wing's gate if you have given them certain information that morning - ahead of arriving.
The 4 of us enjoyed an excellent sit-down breakfast (Eggs Benedict, etc.) at the T3 Virgin lounge.We also hada couple of Virgin Redhead's (Prosecco, raspberry juice, Cassis, Framboise, etc. etc.) each.I had converted the recipe to US ounces a few months ago and served at a party.Big hit.Was pleased that they tasted exactly the same.Try one (at least).We also wentup and enjoyed the observation deck.
Plane departed (and arrived) on time.Would hope to get updated business class next time.We reserved seats 4k and 5k.Liked this location very much.It is practically impossible to see out the window - no big deal because mostly just looking at water.
CARPATAIRRECOMMEND. We had a flight from Amsterdam to Edinburgh on KLM. KLM used Carpatair on our flight that day.We had some concern because this is a charter operator based in Romania. No issues.Service, old equipment (Fokker 100), schedule, etc. was very nice.As many of you know so well, first class in Europe is identical to coach -- except they leave the middle seat vacant and serve free drinks and food.
TRAIN RECOMMEND.We decided to use the Virgin Trains - Edinburgh Waverly to London's King's Cross. We departed at 1:30pm and arrived 5:45pm. Did not want the hassle of flying the 400 miles.Left (port) side may give you a little better view of water, but really, pick seats on either side.Used Virgin's first class lounge at Waverly.Purchased two bottles of wine before hand for us to drink on train.We traveled on a Saturday so included light lunch but not the full hot meal they serve during the week.
Used the Virgin website (virgintrainseastcoast.com).Marked my calendar (and requested their website send me a reminder email) and made 1st class reservations first day (90 days ahead).Paid about 45 or roughly $64 per person.IMPORTANT the prices can go way up if you wait.Make your reservations as soon as possible.Select your seat assignment when you make your reservations.Printed out the tickets in the USA and carried with us.
AUTOEUROPE RENTAL CAR RECOMMEND WITH ONE RESERVATIONS. Used AutoEurope in USA 888.223.5555 (through Europcar at Waverly Station in Edinburgh) to make reservations way in advance. We had a new MB Wagon.The basic rate was $835.Used our AMEX platinum card for the additional full coverage.Actually, the original reservation cost was higher but continued to monitor and when the prices dropped a few dollars, I called AutoEurope and they do honor the lower price.
Couple things.Make sure you talk to American Express first if you plan on using this Platinum Card advantage.Make sure you have the CURRENT/RECENT AMEX documentation. AMEX will forward to you, follow 100% of the rules, make sure you have the AMEX USA number handy tocall (we had to call them from the Europcarcounter). AND MOST IMPORTANT, know where to return the car at Waverly.It is not at the station.It caused us problems when we were trying to return the car -- with the train departure time approaching.
GOLF Our golfer played 4 different golf links (based out of Edinburgh (2), St. Andrews, and Dornoch). The links courses were Muirfield, North Berwick, Kingsbarns Golf Links and Royal Dornoch Golf Club. Don't want to put words in his mouth, however, I think his favorite experience was Muirfield.Ourgolfer suggested you start months (if not a year) ahead of your trip.It will be easier to plan your sightseeing itinerary after you know what courses you will play.I believe all 4 courses were in the world's top courses.The Old Course St. Andrews is closed Sundays.
EDINBURGH3 NIGHTS
Edinburgh is one of our top 'hand full' of European large cities. Just driving around the Old and New Towns is a real pleasure.We did not use a guide - just taxis.Good location for start of Highlands trip.
Stayed: Inn On The Mile: RECOMMEND. (theinnonthemile.co.uk). We did not have any problems.Paid about 200 per night - for a Royal Mile Room. We had a corner room on the 2nd floor - Europe's 1st floor. Made reservations directly with the B&B.
Location was excellent - right on the Royal Mile. The hotel is exactly as shown on their website. large rooms, large modern bathroom, clean and with wonderful character. Came with a bottle of Prosecco. The employees were very polite and helpful. Although you check in inside the restaurant/bar area, no problems and they help with your luggage. We were not bothered by noise or not having an elevator (I had requested a low floor - I am 74).
When I made the reservation, I read that they would give a 5% discount when you check out. They told me just before our trip, that that was already built into the room rate. I had read the terms carefully and I certainly did not read the website that way. I let it go. Because, I made reservations directly through the website, there was no way to pull the old pages from website to prove it either way.
Did: ALL HIGHLY RECOMMEND. Royal Yacht Britannia - allow 2 hours; St. Giles's Cathedral; walked the Royal Mile;Holyroodhouse; Edinburgh Castle.
Ate: Pickles wine bar (HIGHLY RECOMMEND) (getpickled.co.uk) they don't take reservations, limited tables and food selections, great wine selection, very good experience and very well managed;Deacon Brodie's (RECOMMEND WITH RESERVATIONS),right down from hotel on Royal Mile, very touristy, OK food, noisy, good service
ST. ANDREWS 2 NIGHTS
Needless to say, golfing Mecca. Very interesting small town for tourist.Easy to walkaround.Nice beach.
Stayed: Hotel du Vin: RECOMMEND. (hotelduvin.com).Did not have any problems. Paid $275/night for superior sea view room, made through Expedia, breakfast extra, our friends (the golfer) had the room overlooking The Royal and Ancient Golf Club (suggest requesting); SUGGESTION consider Eden Mansion in St. Andrews -- they were booked almost a year in advance because of a wedding.
One night we shopped at a local grocery store for dinner.Went back to the hotel and they offered us a very nice gratis meeting room (or private dining room) for our 'grocery dinner'.They also brought us silverware, napkins, etc.Very much went out of their way to be accommodating.Great location with parking potentially a problem.
Did: RECOMMEND. Play golf, Swilcan Bridge, St. Andrews Cathedral, St. Andrews Castle, St. Andrews University, The Royal and Ancient Golf Club at St. Andrews.
Ate: The best dining experience we had on this trip was at The Grange Inn (HIGHLY RECOMMEND) (thegrangeinn.com) just outside of St. Andrews. We took a cab.We had a drink in their bar and then ate dinner.I believe the three course meal was 45.The setting is absolutely beautiful.In the country, old home and grounds that have been manicured.Service outstanding as was the food.Very few tables so suggest contacting as early as possible to get a reservation.
DOUNESIDE HOUSE 1 NIGHT
We were driving from St. Andrews to Dornoch for our golfer to play the next links course. Too much driving for one day sobroke up trip and stayed at Douneside House Aberdeenshire outside of Tarland.
Stayed: HIGHLY RECOMMEND.Douneside House (dounesidehouse.co.uk) has a story to tell.Was a mega wealthy family's home to start.The original owner and his wife had three sons.All three sons were killed in airplane related accidents.The House was converted to a hotel and it was originally only for R&R for military service personnel.Later they allowed civilians to use the house.Manicured,huge front lawn with mountain views.If the weather is nice, sit at tables on the front lawn and have a glass of wine.Paid 220 for one room and 150 for the other.Made reservations directly with house.
Did: Drove through Perth, Kinclaven, Dunkeld, etc. to Edradour Distillery (HIGHLY RECOMMEND) (edradour.com).When doing my due diligence (Karen Brown, etc.), I read about this distillery.It is the smallest and prettiest in Scotland (so I am told). Setting and whisky (according to our resident whisky expert) was outstanding.Strongly suggest stopping and taking a tour (the guide could have been an actor).I remember the cost was 10 but for that you get two whisky glasses, the tour and whisky tasting.
Ate: Drove through Pitlochry and ate at The Old Mill Inn (theoldmillpitlochry.co.uk). Everything was nice about the place but the hamburger was dry and not lacked flavor.The local food ordered by the other traveler was good.Cute town - we walked around.Looked at tacky 'stuff' coming out with the happy couple's pictures.
DORNOCH 1 NIGHT
We continued our drive from St. Andrews to Dornoch. We stayed at 2 Quail B&B.This was a very busy period of our trip.We stayed at Douneside one night and stayed at 2 Quail one night.Originally, we had reservations at the Fionn Lodge B&B.We had to change the stay to one night and they required a minimum of two nights.Moved reservation to 2 Quail and we were very pleased.
Stayed: 2 Quail B&B HIGHLY RECOMMEND.Located on the main drag (Castle Street). Great location - right next to a good Italian restaurant.The rooms were 110 and 105.Made reservations directly with the B&B.This B&B is popular.The are booked up every night through next Fall.Very nice husband and wife team.
Did: HIGHLY RECOMMEND.Town is small - just walk around.You can walk to the links course.We toured Dornoch Cathedral, a village market and FINALLY made a short drive to Dunrobin Castle. A first for anybody in our group was the falconer demonstration.Crowded and the falconer was very knowledgeable and entertaining -- three different birds 15 minutes each.They flew just over the crowd's head.I felt the feathers on one pass.Learned a great deal about a subject I knew nothing about.Highly recommend this short trip.The Castle is outstanding AND huge.
Ate: HIGHLY RECOMMEND. Another great advantage of 2 Quail is Mike - who happens to be the husband of the hubby and wife team.Mike is a classically trained chef and cooked a three course dinner that night.Absolutely amazing fixed menu.Even if you don't stay here, try and make reservations for dinner.I would need to check, but I think we paid about 25 to 30 each.Now, for lunch both days, we ate Luigi's Restaurant next door to 2 Quail.It is ranked the number one restaurant in Dornoch.Did not disappoint.Nice wine selection. Owner was from, oh well, New Jersey.
SKYE / PORTREE 2 NIGHTS
After a long nasty rainy drive, we arrived late at Portree on the Isle of Skye.
Stayed: Cuillin Hills Hotel B&B: HIGHLY RECOMMEND (cuillinhills-hotel-skye.co.uk).Paid 220 and300 for the two rooms.These, months and months in advance, were the last two rooms they had. Made reservations directly with hotel.Apparently, Skye was popular years ago but is very very popular today.The Cuillin view is magnificent - overlooking the bay in Portree.The hotel itself is very nice but would not fall into the plush category.Nice bar and lounge area with a wood burning fireplace (hard to think I liked that now that I am back to almost 100 weather).Very helpful staff.
Did: RECOMMENDED. All the normal list of must see places. Some of the roads are bad - or should I say horrible.
Ate: one of the best dining experience we had on this trip was at Scorrybreac (RECOMMEND WITH RESEVATIONS) (scorrybreac.com) in Portree.It is ranked number 1.The food was excellent - lending itself to the change in my belief system concerning UK food. However, it is only fair to mention that the entire restaurant is run by three people.Only one person takes care of the small dining room -- everything, meeting new guest, cleaning, drinks, serving, etc.However, the flip side is I think the three course meal was 42.How can you serve a wonderful three course meal with this quality food at that price -- oh, with a total staff of 3 people.I definitely would return knowing that it will be somewhat less service oriented than normal but at a very very reasonable price.
Went to The Stein Inn in Waternish for lunch.I had smoked salmon and it was very good.Good on the water location.Try it.Ranked very high and that is for a good reason.
BALQUHIDDER 1 NIGHT
Ferry from Armadale to Mallaig service not available. Drove over bridge and headed to Glencoe.We contacted Callendar House in Falkirk first. They were booked.
Stayed: Monachyle Mhor B&B: HIGHLY RECOMMEND (monachylemhor.net).Did not have any problems. Paid 195 each for the two rooms in the main house.Made directly with B&BThe view is also magnificent.The hotel itself is very nice but, like Cuillin Hills would not fall into the plush category.Small bar area with a wood burning fireplace.Very helpful staff.This was our 2nd stay here and would stay again.
Did: RECOMMEND. Drove through hills, etc. to Glencoe and then on to Balquhidder.Stopped briefly at Rob Roy's grave.
Ate:Monachyle Mhor (RECOMMEND) was also one of the best dinner dining experience we had on this trip. The food was excellent but expensive.The cost, before wine, was 65 per person.Service good but not value.
We had lunch in Glencoe at The Boots Bar in the Clachaig Inn.OK but out of a signature dish.Would not return.
LONDON3 NIGHTS
Drove back to Edinburgh and had trouble finding where to return rental car. Found taxi that knew where to return car and we followed him - he ended up driving us afterwards to Waverly Station. On way to Waverly that morning, stopped at Stirling Castle. Always a good stop - come early and avoid the crowds. Hung out in Virgin 1st class train lounge until train's departure.
Stayed: Chesterfield Mayfair: HIGHLY RECOMMEND. (chesterfieldmayfair.com).Paid $921 for all 3 night per room. Reserved prior to wedding announcement.Prices went up. Used Expedia.Good service with coffee available early in lobby.Only issue was I asked them to get us a taxi to airport and the cost was over 120. I think should have been in 70 range.I think we were taken.Breakfast was wonderful.Very nice bar.Just a very very nice traditional hotel.Rooms were actually larger than I expected - now the bathroom was plush but small small.
Did: HIGHLY RECOMMEND. Did tour of London on Sunday. Used London Tours By Taxi Adrian Rouse (([email protected]) - saw some of the major London city sights - Buckingham Palace, Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, etc.Adrian dropped us off at the London Eye. We had purchased Flexi Fast Track tickets.Good weather and went right onto the Eye.
On Monday, used Adrian for full day tour of Cotswold's. We visited Woodstock, Chipping Norton, Stow On The Wold, Burford and Bibury. Long rewarding day.
Ate:In London, we ate at a pub one evening - The Footman. It was down the street from the Chesterfield. Ate appetizers that were very good.We also ate a lunch in London at The Admiralty. Good food and location.
However, we had a highlight meal at The Swan Inn in Swinbrook (near Burford) (theswanswinbrook.co.uk).Beautiful day and we ate on the outdoor patio.Building was from the 16th century. HIGHLY RECOMMEND.
TRIP CONCLUSION
We do a lot of due diligence prior to making reservations. It pays off.Yes, very good trip.Busy at times.Ideally, I like a minimum of three nights in any one location.Something magical about Scotland (don't want to leave out England -- also great part of trip) and it's people. Food was surprising good. These are my opinions. Hope this helps future travelers.
Personal note: I will be 76 on next overseas trip - "Farewell Italy".FYI I create a book after each trip -- generally includes, among other things - leather binder, several antique miniature maps of subject countries (most from 18th century), old currency from the country, photographs, photo of Hello From......Scotland (listing Grandchildren) sign, couple admission tickets (e.g., Britannia Boarding Pass), Trip Itinerary, Trip Report, antique and new postcards, etc.I like to think this is not your mother's scrapbook.
TRY SCOTLAND -- YOU'LL ENJOY BOTH THE SCENERY AND THE FOOD!
One person loved whisky, one enjoyed but not loved, the other two hated.We all enjoy a nice bottle of dry red.
We were very pleased with some outstanding meals.I take back the things I thought about UK food. Beautifully prepared and served.They still need to work on their hamburgers (please don't tell me not to order hamburgers overseas).Dry and tasteless.I still don't know why they do not offer a selection of salad dressings.
I do place a premium on operational ease.Therefore, some of the choices I made are not necessarily the least expense. FYI I tip about half of what I would expect to tip in the States for the same service-maybe high maybe low.Oh well!
Would classify our hotel and restaurant choices as high moderate or would that be low high. Well, you get the idea.I made the hotel reservations both directly through the hotels or Expedia - depending on prices and restrictions.
We had vacationed in Ireland a few years ago with the same couple - also a golfing and sightseeing trip. Does our golfer prefer the Scottish or Irish links?
Thanks Fodor's and TripAdvisor contributors for assistance. Just wish some of the responders would "lose the attitude".Was not like that early on.
TRAVELING WITH FRIENDS
Have never had major problems traveling with friends. We do stress flexibility. FINANCE suggestion -- we used a VISA card to charge all group expenses - e.g., meals, entrance tickets.We just divided up the statement after returning - no separate checks.AND, we appoint a treasurer.We give the treasurer s (technically an English's merchant does not have to accept Scottish banknotes - they took ours anyway) for cash requirements -- e.g., entrance fees, tours.CANCELLATIONS -- previously we have had some cancellation problems.Once a person or couple commits, they must be responsible (unless a replacement can be found) for their portion of prepaid nonrefundable expenses or changes due to their cancellation.
AIRLINES
We use AMEX points with Delta and fly first/business class. I start making reservations 11 months ahead of time.We had a per passenger choice of 140k or 155k.Selected the 155k because I wanted to try Virgin Atlantic - including the Heathrow lounge (which you can also use if you are booked on Delta business class that day).
DELTA RECOMMEND.We departed for Edinburgh on a flight from Texas to Atlanta. Recommend spending free time in their new ATL lounge adjacent to B18.Much larger, better food, newer and nicer than international lounges (except no observation deck).
Departed for Amsterdam on a A330-300 that evening. Nice business class seats, pleasant flight attendants and just a 'plane' nice flight.We decided to reserve 2J and 3J even though we were traveling together.Worked well.I requested the entire meal be served at one time -- and before first bite, took half a sleeping aid.
VIRGIN ATLANTICRECOMMEND.Flew Virgin between Heathrow and Atlanta. No negative issues - except business class seats. All of the Virgin ground and flight crews could not have been more helpful. We traveled on a A340-600 and that business class is just not up to today's standards. Plane does have the 3 seat bar area -- which we never used.Had flight VS103 departing at 11am. Left the Chesterfield hotel at 7am and arrived Heathrow before 8am.
Used the "Wing" quick check-in and that is so nice.Tried to call the Europe number (+44 344 412 4666) when we departed the hotel and did not go through. If you are on a Delta flight, you call a similar number in the States.I decided to call the USA number (when the UK number did not work) as well (800 985 8706) because it is more efficient entering the Wing's gate if you have given them certain information that morning - ahead of arriving.
The 4 of us enjoyed an excellent sit-down breakfast (Eggs Benedict, etc.) at the T3 Virgin lounge.We also hada couple of Virgin Redhead's (Prosecco, raspberry juice, Cassis, Framboise, etc. etc.) each.I had converted the recipe to US ounces a few months ago and served at a party.Big hit.Was pleased that they tasted exactly the same.Try one (at least).We also wentup and enjoyed the observation deck.
Plane departed (and arrived) on time.Would hope to get updated business class next time.We reserved seats 4k and 5k.Liked this location very much.It is practically impossible to see out the window - no big deal because mostly just looking at water.
CARPATAIRRECOMMEND. We had a flight from Amsterdam to Edinburgh on KLM. KLM used Carpatair on our flight that day.We had some concern because this is a charter operator based in Romania. No issues.Service, old equipment (Fokker 100), schedule, etc. was very nice.As many of you know so well, first class in Europe is identical to coach -- except they leave the middle seat vacant and serve free drinks and food.
TRAIN RECOMMEND.We decided to use the Virgin Trains - Edinburgh Waverly to London's King's Cross. We departed at 1:30pm and arrived 5:45pm. Did not want the hassle of flying the 400 miles.Left (port) side may give you a little better view of water, but really, pick seats on either side.Used Virgin's first class lounge at Waverly.Purchased two bottles of wine before hand for us to drink on train.We traveled on a Saturday so included light lunch but not the full hot meal they serve during the week.
Used the Virgin website (virgintrainseastcoast.com).Marked my calendar (and requested their website send me a reminder email) and made 1st class reservations first day (90 days ahead).Paid about 45 or roughly $64 per person.IMPORTANT the prices can go way up if you wait.Make your reservations as soon as possible.Select your seat assignment when you make your reservations.Printed out the tickets in the USA and carried with us.
AUTOEUROPE RENTAL CAR RECOMMEND WITH ONE RESERVATIONS. Used AutoEurope in USA 888.223.5555 (through Europcar at Waverly Station in Edinburgh) to make reservations way in advance. We had a new MB Wagon.The basic rate was $835.Used our AMEX platinum card for the additional full coverage.Actually, the original reservation cost was higher but continued to monitor and when the prices dropped a few dollars, I called AutoEurope and they do honor the lower price.
Couple things.Make sure you talk to American Express first if you plan on using this Platinum Card advantage.Make sure you have the CURRENT/RECENT AMEX documentation. AMEX will forward to you, follow 100% of the rules, make sure you have the AMEX USA number handy tocall (we had to call them from the Europcarcounter). AND MOST IMPORTANT, know where to return the car at Waverly.It is not at the station.It caused us problems when we were trying to return the car -- with the train departure time approaching.
GOLF Our golfer played 4 different golf links (based out of Edinburgh (2), St. Andrews, and Dornoch). The links courses were Muirfield, North Berwick, Kingsbarns Golf Links and Royal Dornoch Golf Club. Don't want to put words in his mouth, however, I think his favorite experience was Muirfield.Ourgolfer suggested you start months (if not a year) ahead of your trip.It will be easier to plan your sightseeing itinerary after you know what courses you will play.I believe all 4 courses were in the world's top courses.The Old Course St. Andrews is closed Sundays.
EDINBURGH3 NIGHTS
Edinburgh is one of our top 'hand full' of European large cities. Just driving around the Old and New Towns is a real pleasure.We did not use a guide - just taxis.Good location for start of Highlands trip.
Stayed: Inn On The Mile: RECOMMEND. (theinnonthemile.co.uk). We did not have any problems.Paid about 200 per night - for a Royal Mile Room. We had a corner room on the 2nd floor - Europe's 1st floor. Made reservations directly with the B&B.
Location was excellent - right on the Royal Mile. The hotel is exactly as shown on their website. large rooms, large modern bathroom, clean and with wonderful character. Came with a bottle of Prosecco. The employees were very polite and helpful. Although you check in inside the restaurant/bar area, no problems and they help with your luggage. We were not bothered by noise or not having an elevator (I had requested a low floor - I am 74).
When I made the reservation, I read that they would give a 5% discount when you check out. They told me just before our trip, that that was already built into the room rate. I had read the terms carefully and I certainly did not read the website that way. I let it go. Because, I made reservations directly through the website, there was no way to pull the old pages from website to prove it either way.
Did: ALL HIGHLY RECOMMEND. Royal Yacht Britannia - allow 2 hours; St. Giles's Cathedral; walked the Royal Mile;Holyroodhouse; Edinburgh Castle.
Ate: Pickles wine bar (HIGHLY RECOMMEND) (getpickled.co.uk) they don't take reservations, limited tables and food selections, great wine selection, very good experience and very well managed;Deacon Brodie's (RECOMMEND WITH RESERVATIONS),right down from hotel on Royal Mile, very touristy, OK food, noisy, good service
ST. ANDREWS 2 NIGHTS
Needless to say, golfing Mecca. Very interesting small town for tourist.Easy to walkaround.Nice beach.
Stayed: Hotel du Vin: RECOMMEND. (hotelduvin.com).Did not have any problems. Paid $275/night for superior sea view room, made through Expedia, breakfast extra, our friends (the golfer) had the room overlooking The Royal and Ancient Golf Club (suggest requesting); SUGGESTION consider Eden Mansion in St. Andrews -- they were booked almost a year in advance because of a wedding.
One night we shopped at a local grocery store for dinner.Went back to the hotel and they offered us a very nice gratis meeting room (or private dining room) for our 'grocery dinner'.They also brought us silverware, napkins, etc.Very much went out of their way to be accommodating.Great location with parking potentially a problem.
Did: RECOMMEND. Play golf, Swilcan Bridge, St. Andrews Cathedral, St. Andrews Castle, St. Andrews University, The Royal and Ancient Golf Club at St. Andrews.
Ate: The best dining experience we had on this trip was at The Grange Inn (HIGHLY RECOMMEND) (thegrangeinn.com) just outside of St. Andrews. We took a cab.We had a drink in their bar and then ate dinner.I believe the three course meal was 45.The setting is absolutely beautiful.In the country, old home and grounds that have been manicured.Service outstanding as was the food.Very few tables so suggest contacting as early as possible to get a reservation.
DOUNESIDE HOUSE 1 NIGHT
We were driving from St. Andrews to Dornoch for our golfer to play the next links course. Too much driving for one day sobroke up trip and stayed at Douneside House Aberdeenshire outside of Tarland.
Stayed: HIGHLY RECOMMEND.Douneside House (dounesidehouse.co.uk) has a story to tell.Was a mega wealthy family's home to start.The original owner and his wife had three sons.All three sons were killed in airplane related accidents.The House was converted to a hotel and it was originally only for R&R for military service personnel.Later they allowed civilians to use the house.Manicured,huge front lawn with mountain views.If the weather is nice, sit at tables on the front lawn and have a glass of wine.Paid 220 for one room and 150 for the other.Made reservations directly with house.
Did: Drove through Perth, Kinclaven, Dunkeld, etc. to Edradour Distillery (HIGHLY RECOMMEND) (edradour.com).When doing my due diligence (Karen Brown, etc.), I read about this distillery.It is the smallest and prettiest in Scotland (so I am told). Setting and whisky (according to our resident whisky expert) was outstanding.Strongly suggest stopping and taking a tour (the guide could have been an actor).I remember the cost was 10 but for that you get two whisky glasses, the tour and whisky tasting.
Ate: Drove through Pitlochry and ate at The Old Mill Inn (theoldmillpitlochry.co.uk). Everything was nice about the place but the hamburger was dry and not lacked flavor.The local food ordered by the other traveler was good.Cute town - we walked around.Looked at tacky 'stuff' coming out with the happy couple's pictures.
DORNOCH 1 NIGHT
We continued our drive from St. Andrews to Dornoch. We stayed at 2 Quail B&B.This was a very busy period of our trip.We stayed at Douneside one night and stayed at 2 Quail one night.Originally, we had reservations at the Fionn Lodge B&B.We had to change the stay to one night and they required a minimum of two nights.Moved reservation to 2 Quail and we were very pleased.
Stayed: 2 Quail B&B HIGHLY RECOMMEND.Located on the main drag (Castle Street). Great location - right next to a good Italian restaurant.The rooms were 110 and 105.Made reservations directly with the B&B.This B&B is popular.The are booked up every night through next Fall.Very nice husband and wife team.
Did: HIGHLY RECOMMEND.Town is small - just walk around.You can walk to the links course.We toured Dornoch Cathedral, a village market and FINALLY made a short drive to Dunrobin Castle. A first for anybody in our group was the falconer demonstration.Crowded and the falconer was very knowledgeable and entertaining -- three different birds 15 minutes each.They flew just over the crowd's head.I felt the feathers on one pass.Learned a great deal about a subject I knew nothing about.Highly recommend this short trip.The Castle is outstanding AND huge.
Ate: HIGHLY RECOMMEND. Another great advantage of 2 Quail is Mike - who happens to be the husband of the hubby and wife team.Mike is a classically trained chef and cooked a three course dinner that night.Absolutely amazing fixed menu.Even if you don't stay here, try and make reservations for dinner.I would need to check, but I think we paid about 25 to 30 each.Now, for lunch both days, we ate Luigi's Restaurant next door to 2 Quail.It is ranked the number one restaurant in Dornoch.Did not disappoint.Nice wine selection. Owner was from, oh well, New Jersey.
SKYE / PORTREE 2 NIGHTS
After a long nasty rainy drive, we arrived late at Portree on the Isle of Skye.
Stayed: Cuillin Hills Hotel B&B: HIGHLY RECOMMEND (cuillinhills-hotel-skye.co.uk).Paid 220 and300 for the two rooms.These, months and months in advance, were the last two rooms they had. Made reservations directly with hotel.Apparently, Skye was popular years ago but is very very popular today.The Cuillin view is magnificent - overlooking the bay in Portree.The hotel itself is very nice but would not fall into the plush category.Nice bar and lounge area with a wood burning fireplace (hard to think I liked that now that I am back to almost 100 weather).Very helpful staff.
Did: RECOMMENDED. All the normal list of must see places. Some of the roads are bad - or should I say horrible.
Ate: one of the best dining experience we had on this trip was at Scorrybreac (RECOMMEND WITH RESEVATIONS) (scorrybreac.com) in Portree.It is ranked number 1.The food was excellent - lending itself to the change in my belief system concerning UK food. However, it is only fair to mention that the entire restaurant is run by three people.Only one person takes care of the small dining room -- everything, meeting new guest, cleaning, drinks, serving, etc.However, the flip side is I think the three course meal was 42.How can you serve a wonderful three course meal with this quality food at that price -- oh, with a total staff of 3 people.I definitely would return knowing that it will be somewhat less service oriented than normal but at a very very reasonable price.
Went to The Stein Inn in Waternish for lunch.I had smoked salmon and it was very good.Good on the water location.Try it.Ranked very high and that is for a good reason.
BALQUHIDDER 1 NIGHT
Ferry from Armadale to Mallaig service not available. Drove over bridge and headed to Glencoe.We contacted Callendar House in Falkirk first. They were booked.
Stayed: Monachyle Mhor B&B: HIGHLY RECOMMEND (monachylemhor.net).Did not have any problems. Paid 195 each for the two rooms in the main house.Made directly with B&BThe view is also magnificent.The hotel itself is very nice but, like Cuillin Hills would not fall into the plush category.Small bar area with a wood burning fireplace.Very helpful staff.This was our 2nd stay here and would stay again.
Did: RECOMMEND. Drove through hills, etc. to Glencoe and then on to Balquhidder.Stopped briefly at Rob Roy's grave.
Ate:Monachyle Mhor (RECOMMEND) was also one of the best dinner dining experience we had on this trip. The food was excellent but expensive.The cost, before wine, was 65 per person.Service good but not value.
We had lunch in Glencoe at The Boots Bar in the Clachaig Inn.OK but out of a signature dish.Would not return.
LONDON3 NIGHTS
Drove back to Edinburgh and had trouble finding where to return rental car. Found taxi that knew where to return car and we followed him - he ended up driving us afterwards to Waverly Station. On way to Waverly that morning, stopped at Stirling Castle. Always a good stop - come early and avoid the crowds. Hung out in Virgin 1st class train lounge until train's departure.
Stayed: Chesterfield Mayfair: HIGHLY RECOMMEND. (chesterfieldmayfair.com).Paid $921 for all 3 night per room. Reserved prior to wedding announcement.Prices went up. Used Expedia.Good service with coffee available early in lobby.Only issue was I asked them to get us a taxi to airport and the cost was over 120. I think should have been in 70 range.I think we were taken.Breakfast was wonderful.Very nice bar.Just a very very nice traditional hotel.Rooms were actually larger than I expected - now the bathroom was plush but small small.
Did: HIGHLY RECOMMEND. Did tour of London on Sunday. Used London Tours By Taxi Adrian Rouse (([email protected]) - saw some of the major London city sights - Buckingham Palace, Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, etc.Adrian dropped us off at the London Eye. We had purchased Flexi Fast Track tickets.Good weather and went right onto the Eye.
On Monday, used Adrian for full day tour of Cotswold's. We visited Woodstock, Chipping Norton, Stow On The Wold, Burford and Bibury. Long rewarding day.
Ate:In London, we ate at a pub one evening - The Footman. It was down the street from the Chesterfield. Ate appetizers that were very good.We also ate a lunch in London at The Admiralty. Good food and location.
However, we had a highlight meal at The Swan Inn in Swinbrook (near Burford) (theswanswinbrook.co.uk).Beautiful day and we ate on the outdoor patio.Building was from the 16th century. HIGHLY RECOMMEND.
TRIP CONCLUSION
We do a lot of due diligence prior to making reservations. It pays off.Yes, very good trip.Busy at times.Ideally, I like a minimum of three nights in any one location.Something magical about Scotland (don't want to leave out England -- also great part of trip) and it's people. Food was surprising good. These are my opinions. Hope this helps future travelers.
Personal note: I will be 76 on next overseas trip - "Farewell Italy".FYI I create a book after each trip -- generally includes, among other things - leather binder, several antique miniature maps of subject countries (most from 18th century), old currency from the country, photographs, photo of Hello From......Scotland (listing Grandchildren) sign, couple admission tickets (e.g., Britannia Boarding Pass), Trip Itinerary, Trip Report, antique and new postcards, etc.I like to think this is not your mother's scrapbook.
TRY SCOTLAND -- YOU'LL ENJOY BOTH THE SCENERY AND THE FOOD!
Jun 2nd, 2018 | 01:02 PM
#2
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,566
Likes: 22
Nice report. St Andrews is a golfing mecca and a student mecca. Great place to go to school if you dont mind a few limited sunshine months.
Your friend hit the golfing jackpot. Kingsbarns may be the most beautiful course in the world and North Berwick may be the most fun course.
Your friend hit the golfing jackpot. Kingsbarns may be the most beautiful course in the world and North Berwick may be the most fun course.
Jun 3rd, 2018 | 04:27 AM
#4
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
Though it's not a tour i would think of doing I enjoyed your TR very much.
I'm particularly pleased that you revised your opinion of British food. I think it's changed tremendously over the last 20 years or so both in quality of ingredients and the standards of cookery and I'm glad that you enjoyed it so much.
Please come back and share your Italian jaunt with us too.
I'm particularly pleased that you revised your opinion of British food. I think it's changed tremendously over the last 20 years or so both in quality of ingredients and the standards of cookery and I'm glad that you enjoyed it so much.
Please come back and share your Italian jaunt with us too.
Jun 3rd, 2018 | 09:22 AM
#5
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 0
Hi Philip, thanks for your great trip report and practical suggestions after your fling in Scotland and England. Your planning really paid off.
You wrote “…we had a highlight meal at The Swan Inn in Swinbrook (near Burford) (theswanswinbrook.co.uk).Beautiful day and we ate on the outdoor patio. Building was from the 16th century. HIGHLY RECOMMEND.”
I agree that on a lovely summer’s day the setting on the River Windrush approaches “magical.” We stopped for lunch there on a private tour of the villages where Downton Abbey was filmed. The Inn was featured in the drama’s elopement scene. Excellent food and ambiance. We were told that David Cameron fancies the place.
As a follow-up you might enjoy reading about the famous (some say infamous) Mitford sisters whose lovely faces grace the walls of the Swan Inn – THE SISTERS: THE SAGA OF THE MITFORD FAMILY by Mary S. Lovell published in 2003.
You wrote “…we had a highlight meal at The Swan Inn in Swinbrook (near Burford) (theswanswinbrook.co.uk).Beautiful day and we ate on the outdoor patio. Building was from the 16th century. HIGHLY RECOMMEND.”
I agree that on a lovely summer’s day the setting on the River Windrush approaches “magical.” We stopped for lunch there on a private tour of the villages where Downton Abbey was filmed. The Inn was featured in the drama’s elopement scene. Excellent food and ambiance. We were told that David Cameron fancies the place.
As a follow-up you might enjoy reading about the famous (some say infamous) Mitford sisters whose lovely faces grace the walls of the Swan Inn – THE SISTERS: THE SAGA OF THE MITFORD FAMILY by Mary S. Lovell published in 2003.
Jun 9th, 2018 | 01:04 PM
#6
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,647
Likes: 21
Good report. We also liked Cuillin Hills Hotel and Scorrybreac. The restaurant was backed up, and we were seated about 25 minutes late, but they gave us a free bottle of wine. Service and food was excellent. The hotel restaurant was good, too
Jun 15th, 2018 | 08:10 AM
#7
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
latedaytraveler
Thanks for suggestion about the book. Are you talking about the individual pictures of the 6 ladies over the fireplace - in one of the dining rooms? I had taken a picture of that room showing the ladies and put that photograph in the travel book. I will look and see if I an find the Lovell book.
Thanks for suggestion about the book. Are you talking about the individual pictures of the 6 ladies over the fireplace - in one of the dining rooms? I had taken a picture of that room showing the ladies and put that photograph in the travel book. I will look and see if I an find the Lovell book.
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Jun 15th, 2018 | 08:34 AM
#8
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 552
Likes: 0
HI,
Really enjoyed your report. When in London, we always stay at the Chesterfield Mayfair. We have probably stayed there on our last 7 or 8 visits. Love the neighborhood.
We are venturing to Scotland at the end of summer and are staying at Monachyle Mhor B&B on our last night before departing from EDI for home. Very much looking forward to experiencing a little bit of Scotland. Happy to see your good report of this place.
Cheers.
Really enjoyed your report. When in London, we always stay at the Chesterfield Mayfair. We have probably stayed there on our last 7 or 8 visits. Love the neighborhood.
We are venturing to Scotland at the end of summer and are staying at Monachyle Mhor B&B on our last night before departing from EDI for home. Very much looking forward to experiencing a little bit of Scotland. Happy to see your good report of this place.
Cheers.
Jun 16th, 2018 | 03:13 AM
#9
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 0
Philip,
Yes, those sisters. You can get an overview of them in Wikipedia where one of their contemporaries described them as "Diana the Fascist, Jessica the Communist, Unity the Hitler-lover; Nancy the Novelist; Deborah the Duchess and Pamela the unobtrusive poultry connoisseur".
They were all exceptionally handsome women. Deborah married the Duke of Devonshire and together (among other ventures) they restored Chatsworth, one of the most spectacular of stately homes in Britain. I believe she has some connections to Swan’s Inn also.
Leaving for London today...
Leaving for London today…
Yes, those sisters. You can get an overview of them in Wikipedia where one of their contemporaries described them as "Diana the Fascist, Jessica the Communist, Unity the Hitler-lover; Nancy the Novelist; Deborah the Duchess and Pamela the unobtrusive poultry connoisseur".
They were all exceptionally handsome women. Deborah married the Duke of Devonshire and together (among other ventures) they restored Chatsworth, one of the most spectacular of stately homes in Britain. I believe she has some connections to Swan’s Inn also.
Leaving for London today...
Leaving for London today…
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