My wife and I first visited Scandinavia in August 2006, and that trip remains vivid in memory even today. From the unforgettable Norway in a Nutshell journey between Oslo and Bergen, to the breathtaking views of the fjords and rugged coastline as we sailed north on the Hurtigruten, the mystical beauty of the Lofoten Islands, and the sophisticated charm of Stockholm and Helsinki... I could go on. It was a fascinating trip � in many ways it redefined my approach to travel and we promised ourselves we�d return someday. Twenty years later in May, 2026, we finally fulfilled that promise.

We began in Copenhagen and finished in Stockholm, with roughly three weeks in between dedicated to Norway. After spending a few days each in Stavanger and Bergen, we sailed up the Norway coast with Havila Voyages to Troms�. We rented a car to road-trip through the spectacular islands of Senja, Vester�len, and Lofoten. After returning the car in Narvik, we took the overnight train to Stockholm.



Unlike our last visit in the fall of 2006, this time we visited in May�an ideal time to experience Norway as it bursts back to life in spring, with limited crowds. The weather was supportive (and largely dry), and the long daylight hours allowed us to make the most of each day. We had three weeks for this trip, but even that felt like it wasn�t enough.

Over the next fortnight, I�ll post this report in instalments, and I hope you�ll enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed experiencing it.

ANUJ,

Hurray Norway!

You have a fantastic itinerary of your journey. Looking forward to your marvelous journey. I will go back to visit Norway in a heartbeat!

On arriving in Copenhagen, we checked into our hotel in Vesterbro - the trendy neighborhood west of the train station. While Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark, the city �centre� is very compact and walkable, so made for a perfect start to our trip after a long overnight flight. It is a vibrant city with an eclectic blend of history and modernity.

Walking out of the station, in the direction of the old city, the first stop was the Tivoli Food Hall, for a quick lunch before a long self-guided walk. Tivoli is a garden and amusement park, but we had no interest in the rides.


Indoor stalls at Tivoli food court


Outdoor seating at Tivoli food court


View from the outdoor area


View from the outdoor area


The main entrance to Tivoli


Just around the corner is the main square, R�dhuspladsen, near the Copenhagen city hall (Radhus).


The main square


The dragon fountain, with the Radhus at the back


Popped into the Radhus to have a look, a popular marriage venue - with an ongoing rehearsal


The astronomical clock housed inside (Jens Olsen's World Clock) is one of the most advanced mechanical clocks in the world


The bronze statue of the Danish fairy tale author Hans Christian Andersen, just outside the Radhus gazing at the Tivoli Gardens


We then headed down the main pedestrianized zone - Str�get, lined with shops and restaurants.


At the start of Str�get


Gammeltorv, a square along the way


Nytorv, another square along the way with the courthouse in the back


Lots of shops and cafes, lining the streets


Ocassionally straying a few blocks off the Str�get, rewarded us with some charming historical spots.


Grabrodretorv, a quiet square away from the crowds


The University Quarter, with the Round Tower in view


We reached the end of Str�get, near Amagertorv.


Amagertorv, another square at the end of Stroget


Ostergade, the luxury retail street nearby


We then headed towards Christiansborg Palace, which now houses the parliament, courts and governmental quarters, with some beautiful canal views en route. Sadly, the (free) elevator to the top (The View) offering an eagle eye view of the city was closed.


Along the canal


By the palace


A passenger boat along the canal


We lumbered on down the Havnegade promenade with views across to Christianhavn. The island is home to Freetown Christiania-a unique, self-administered community in Copenhagen, occupying an abandoned military base there. Known for its alternative lifestyle and bohemian atmosphere, it operates largely autonomously from the Danish government.


Passing the famous Kayak Bar


Along the promenade


Views of Christianhavn from promenade

At the sliding bridge, we turned towards Nyhavn (the new Harbour), the gentrified former sailors� quarter with cafes lining a canal filed with sailboats. Nyhavn is a riot of colors, and expectedly, a tourist magnet.


The swing bridge


First views of Nyhavn


.. with lots of historic wooden ships


.. and the famous coloured houses


.. and cafes along the waterfont


A few iconic shots near and from Nyhavnsbroen, the bridge across the canal.






After passing Kongens Nytorv, we headed passed the church to the Amalienborg Palace and square.


Kongens Nytorv (The King's Square) at the end of the Str�get


Frederik's Church


Palace grounds


We made the long walk down the Larsen Plads to the Little Mermaid statue.


Views from across the water on our long walk -the Opera House


Views from across the water on our long walk - just a factory, but reminded me of Pink Floyd's Animals album cover


The Little Mermaid statue, atop a rock


The statue is unexpectedly small, and even the mermaid wore a surprised expression why the crowds seemed to be drawn to her !


Heading back, we passed through the grounds of the Kastellet, a citadel with several buildings on its grounds, including the Citadel Church and windmill. The area has military buildings, but also serves as a public park.


Entering the Kastellet


The grounds


The church, the windmill sweeps visible behind the roof


Exiting the Kastellet


Our final stop for the day was the Rosenborg Castle (which houses the crown jewels) and the beautiful gardens.


The castle gardens


Approaching the castle


Moat around the castle

Great TR and beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing.

Gorgeous pictures ANUJ, we�ve been three times to Scandinavia, but never made it up to Lotofen and Nordkaap. Hopefully we�ll get there some say!

I always remember the Little Mermaid, so little you almost miss her in the crowd. But that was one of my favorite stories as a little girl and I absolutely had to see her!

Waiting for further installments, thanks!

Cherthor Norway had been on our minds for long, your recent TR was the final nudge I needed to act.

esm thank you for following along.

geetika thank you for following along. We didn't get further north than Tromso - though I understand the scenery beyond there gets more stark.

After breakfast in Copenhagen, we took one final stroll around the Meatpacking District (K�dbyen) in Vesterbro, a gentrified former industrial area now packed with restaurants, bars, and galleries.


Vesterbro, exiting our hotel for the Meatpacking District


The Vesterbro Walk of Fame, honouring marginalised locals not celebrities


The arch looked real, but was painted on the wall !


Hafn - a craft distillery producing local spirits like K�dbyens Vodka and bespoke yuzu gins


Popular pubs and cafes


Heading back to Copenhagen Central Station, for the airport train


Post-checkout, we headed directly to the airport to catch our 1.10pm SAS flight to Stavanger.




Stavanger is the fourth-largest city and the oil capital of Norway (with its own petroleum museum!). It sits on the stunning southwest coast, amid dramatic fjords and islands.

We began with a walk through its charming Old Town (Gamle Stavanger) with well-preserved 18th/ 19th century white wooden houses, in the proximity of our airbnb. The Ovre Strandgate is the �main street�, with little stairways to other sidestreets and terraces.












There are a few shops and high end boutiques.






A local architect Einar Heden is credited with the initiative to preserve these heritage houses.


Plaque


We descended to the west side (Strandkaien) of the harbour, passing the terminal for cruises to the Lysefjord and museum.


Descent to the harbour


Along the west side of the Stavanger harbour


Ferries/ boats to Lysefjord


The maritime museum


We walked up the eastern side (Skagenksien) of the harbour, lined with restaurants.


The east side of Stavanger harbour

We then turned in to the Fargegaten, the famously colorful street lined with bars and cafes.






We returned to the harbour by another vibrant street Ostervag.




Both streets have some interesting street art, that is easy to miss if you�re not looking.








Stavanger is also a gateway to adventure, and is best located to access iconic hikes like Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock), towering 604 meters above the breathtaking Lysefjord. We decided to take it easy today and savour the city itself, and leave the hiking (our primary reason to visit Stavanger) for the next day.

The trailhead to Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) is a short 45 minute drive from Stavanger by road, courtesy the Ryfylke tunnel - the longest (15km) subsea (300m depth) tunnel in the world! We took the Pulpit Rock Tours bus from Stavanger, which offers a few runs a day (and gets you there earliest). There are other options that include cruises on the Lysefjord combined with the opportunity to hike yourself or on a guided basis, but our focus was to hike on our own.




An early morning shot of the quiet Stavanger harbour - a complete contrast to the daytime !


By the Stavanger lake, heading towards our bus stop


We took the early 8am bus to beat the crowd, arrived at the basecamp by 9am and began the climb in the company of very few others. The trail is 3.8km long one way with a ~400m elevation gain. The start itself was ominous with a steep incline (gravel path, followed by stone steps) towards a forest but then flattens out along a boardwalk across a swamp.


Starting at the trailhead


View of basecamp as we got higher


Early peek at the fjord from above the treeline


The plateau


It’s after this that the trail starts getting steep - one section even had chains, some stretches necessitated mild scrambling due to the terrain, until you get to a lake.


Steep sections, with chains


Waymarkers


At the lake


After this you continue climbing over alternating smooth and rocky terrain, encountering some boardwalks and staircases as well. The final stretch is tough but exciting, as you see people in the distance and know a climax is near.


Footbridges


Stairways


.. and a glimmer of hope !


Preikestolen appears as a harmless rocky outcrop from a distance. It’s a real adrenaline rush when you finally get there - incredibly beautiful and equally terrifying! It’s a 600m sheer, vertical drop off the edge of the rock - no fence, no railings, nothing.


Outcrop in the distance


View of the Lysefjord


The Pulpit Rock


Views from the edge


Careful with the cracks !


The inconic fjord view


Getting down is easier on the lungs, but tough on the knees - some steps feature unusually large drops. I couldn't help wonder - first, do the Norwegians have extra long legs? And second, how did we ever manage to get up here? Due to a slight drizzle when returning, we had to be cautious with slippery surfaces - my wife took two tumbles on flat ground, no harm done other than a bruised ego. About 4 hours after our 9am start, we were back at the basecamp in perfect time to catch a 1pm bus back to Stavanger.


Leaving Puplit Rock, we noticed the cruise boat - gives you a sense of scale


And another smaller boat came in


.. gave us a little twirl, and left !


Back at the basecamp

With dramatic views over Lysefjord, and a well-maintained, clearly marked trail, this iconic hike is highly recommended. Hiking shoes are necessary given the terrain. This is no denying this a demanding hike - but even if you’re reasonably fit and not a seasoned hiker, don’t be deterred to attempt it. I understand this is the easiest of the iconic hikes, when compared to the likes of Kjerag and Trolltunga.

Back in Stavanger, we took one last stroll in the Sentrum.


A street market had taken over Stavanger Cathedral Square (Domkirkeplassen)


Stavanger Cathedral : Inside


Stavanger Cathedral : Outside


At Pedersgata, lined with shops and restaurants


St. Petri Church, from Pedersgata - notice the co-incidences with the colour red !

How lovely. Our son loved Copenhagen last year (he had 9 nights there, did some daytrips) - the elegance, the interesting neighbourhoods, the historic sites, the modern stuff, the food scene.

Oh, just read your Stavanger posts, what a nice town, and that hike - that’s a wow of a view!

Preikestolen! What a beautiful cliff outcrop.

When Norwegian said easy trail, by no means it will be easy. The trail may be short, but always with those gigantic Sherpa steps that you need to climb, but the reward after the climb is always outstanding.

Thanks for bringing back all our fond memories of Stavanger. I will be following along your beautiful journey.

What a wonderful start to your trip in one of my favorite cities in Copenhagen. I spent a full week there a few weeks back and it was very enjoyable.

Stavanger looks much more visually pleasing and inviting than what I had previously pictured in my head. For whatever reason, I've always imagined a gray industrial city, perhaps because of it being a center of the oil industry.

Glad that you had a good hike up to Pulpit Rock. Definitely up my alley. I've not made it to Norway yet, given the costs.