La Favola

La Favola Review

Lace curtains, embroidered tablecloths, antique silver, collections of teapots and Murano glass, a sponge-painted ceiling, and a vertiginous spiral staircase strike a delicate balance between rustic and fussy in this wood-paneled dollhouse located on the street where Jean Calvin, the Protestant reformer, used to live. The food echoes the decor: part country-simple, part city-chic. Homemade pastas come drizzled with herbs, the carpaccio is paper-thin, the tiramisu divine; seasonal risottos, creamy polenta, and regional wines reflect the Ticinese chef's roots in Ascona, near Locarno.