Lace curtains, embroidered tablecloths, antique silver, a sponge-painted ceiling, and a vertiginous spiral staircase strike a delicate balance between rustic and fussy in this wood-paneled dollhouse down the street from Calvin's residence. The food echoes the decor: part country-simple, part city-chic. Homemade pastas come drizzled with herbs, the carpaccio is paper-thin, the tiramisu is divine; seasonal risottos, creamy polenta, and regional wines reflect the Ticinese chef's roots in Ascona, near Locarno.
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