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Just back from Costa Rica

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Old Jan 19th, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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Just back from Costa Rica

Hi - Just got back late Monday night from CR. It was great! we did so many amazing things and had a 10 day vaca that induced a complete sense of calm in 2 people whose minds do not tend toward that!!

Would be too long to go through each moment, so will just give highlights and observations - so that you have a frame of reference for us and can filter the info through that: we are early 30's who are athletic, like to be outdoors but also love to wile an afternoon away reading a book on the beach - both like road trips and aren't afraid to drive in other countries - like luxury but can;t afford much of it right now, so look for good hotels that are cheaper but clean

we rented a car from tricolor who met us at the airport (be prepared to be drowned in a sea of people offering taxi, hotel, help with bags - it was not scary, but a little intimidating at first) - found the tricolor guy with our name on the board and he called a shuttle to take us to the office. rented the car no problemo and were off

we had no problems driving. had bought a map before we left (they give you one, but it really is not sufficient - just major roads, not much detail) - there is great signage in CR - we really only consulted the map for general direction purposes, but we followed signs and never got lost - even to small hotels - we even drove at night without getting lost

hotels we stayed at:
Poas Volcano Lodge - 1 night - nice room - found a space heater in the closet which was much needed b/c it was pouring and cold and damp outside - worst rain in more than a year i was told - great, welcome to costa rainy (isn't it dry season????!!!!) - planned to go to poas volcano the next a.m. but couldn't due to the torrential rain that continued - anyway, breakfast was yummy

lost iguana - Arenal - planned 2, but stayed 3 nights - LOVED it - never saw the volcano at night - welcome to cloudy rica! - each day there would be a glimmer of hope of seeing it at night b/c the clouds would lift, but alas, always came back at night - anyway, the staff was great, they booked tabacon spa treatments and a visit to eco termales hot springs for us - could not have been nore helpful - room was great - bed comfy, balcony with a great view of the cloud covered volcano had 2 comfy rocking chairs - loved this place - the road getting to it is very rough, but only a 2-3 rough spot

cabinas don taco - santa elena/monteverde - ok, this was our cheap spot - 50 bucks for the night - it was clean and had a good view, but the bed was not really comfy - very very basic and more than sufficient for 50 dollars for the night - were supposed to stay 2, but had stayed an extra at lost iguana, so stayed 1

chocolate aparthotel - Tamarindo - 3 nights - loved it - a small apartment/hotel place less than a 10 minute walk from the center of town - clean, nice couple that own it - we told them we would talk it up - http://www.chocolateaparthotel.com/ - it has a cute courtyard with a small pool - bed was comfortable (not lux, but comfy) - satellite tv - frig, small camp like stove top - we arrived in tamarindo with no res. and they had a vacancy - 68 per night - great deal

siempreverde b & b - 20 min. outside of alejuela (where the airport is) - it is connected with doka coffee plantation - very clean and nice big rooms - we saw all of the rooms and all were nice - hardwood floors - great porch where you can sit and read and have breakfast (which was good) - you can link to it from here http://www.dokaestate.com/

will post more later about things we did and places we ate

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Old Jan 19th, 2006 | 10:44 AM
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Hi Janster,

Sounds like a fun trip -- I look forward to reading the rest of your report. I read your other post about the couples massage at Tabacon and have a question. Did you have to pay admission to get into the hot springs to get to the spa for your massages? If not, were you able to walk around the hot springs after your massages, or did you have to leave right away? (I'm not sure how the hot springs and spa are connected.) I'd like to have some spa treatments at Tabacon, and I'd also like to walk around the grounds during the day because they look so lovely in the pictures (although I don't think I'll want to be in the hot water during the day). I just wonder whether people paying for spa treatments get free or reduced admission to the hot springs area.
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Old Jan 19th, 2006 | 11:01 AM
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You walk through the springs to get to the spa, but you are not allowed to go to the springs after - it is separate and there is no reduced price - you get a band to go the springs and apparently they check - i think the springs were about 35 per person - pricey - at the spa we did the couples massage and then i went back alone the next day for a banana mint facial - 30 minutes for $39 - it was nice and my skin glowed for days after - we had made a reservation 2 days ahead for the massage, but literally called the spa about 2 hours ahead for my facial and could have had appts. at 4 different times - they must have an army of people working there to accomodate everyone becasue we had no problem - we met a couple who stayed at tabacon and if you stay ther, the springs are free, so you can rationalize the room cost by dedcuting the admission price per person each day - i think they said they figured the room was really on 70 each night if they did this - good rationalization in my book!
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Old Jan 19th, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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What map did you buy? I have the National Geographic map, but it is not as detailed I as would like.
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Old Jan 19th, 2006 | 12:09 PM
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we bought the Costa Rica Map
by Ray Krueger-Koplin - amazon has it for 9.95 - it was a good resource
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Old Jan 19th, 2006 | 12:12 PM
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Things to do:
Arenal – hanging bridges – took about 2 hours – I have a fear of heights and was fine – felt safe – we had the great experience of going when there seemed to be very few people there so we had bridges to ourselves for the most part - there are 9 bridges and the rest are trails – you do not have to book ahead – just go and buy ticket

Hiking in Arenal National Park – you get to climb over the 1998 eruption lava flow – it’s huge and very cool – you are in the danger zone for volcanic activity when you go to this park, so if you are wary, don’t – the hike is not really hard – the climbing on the rocks is a little challenging I guess – the rest is easy – you are close to the volcano, so you can hear and see lava rocks being bounced down the side – it is very cool – if not a bit creepy!!

Arenal – Tabacon spa – couples massage – you have to do this even if you are not into spas! SO incredibly peaceful and romantic and relaxing – it was the nicest massage I have ever had and knowing that the person you love is getting a massage and feeling just as relaxed as you are in that moment is really great – I also had a banana mint facial – it was great and my skin was so glowy that my husband said it looked like it had been shellacked!!!

Hot springs - we strongly recommend eco termales - we ate dinner there - it was a very yummy dinner - forget how much it was but not overpriced - it is quiet - they limit the # of people so it stays that way - baldi is directly across the road so we saw the outside - looked very flashy as compared - we went at night and kept joking that it was like a place you would see on the bachelor - it is all dimly lit and there is no music playing so all you hear are the running waters - the drinks at the bar are yummy - it is an honor system where you tell the desk what you drank when you leave and pay there - maybe it is not everyone's cup of tea, but we loved the atmosphere

Monteverde – the original canopy tour – this is where they all started – it is totally safe and very cool – I have a fear of heights and was fine after the first one – the staff are great – friendly and supportive – I got scared at the 1st one and said to my husband that I was going to cry and the staff person (wendy) said, “it’s ok to cry. Just sit down (in the harness) and go” – so I did and was glad for it

Tamarindo – Iguana surf - rent a board and get out there!!! (lessons are 30 an hour – board rental is 8 an hour)

Doka Coffee Estate tour – www.dokaestate.com – it was a great tour – the tour, some yummy warm tortillas and all of the free coffee samples you can drink are included for 16.00 – it was interesting and we both were glad we did it – did that on the morning of the day we left – had a 3:30 flight and it was not hard to do this first – great way to end the vacation

Random things to do:

if you are driving, stop at a fruit stand – pack a swiss army knife in your checked luggage so you can cut it up and feast on the yummy pineapple, papaya, and melons
while laying on the beach, buy a pippas – it is a green coconut that they cut the top of off, give you a straw and you drink the “juice” – I didn’t like it really – weird taste, but my husband thought it was good – costs $1.00 – tried it because, well, all you get on the beach in Ocean City, NJ is ice cream!!!
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Old Jan 19th, 2006 | 03:51 PM
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Hi,

We are going mid March with our three boys (9, 14, 16). I too want to explore the volcano on our own and do the hanging bridges. Do I need to reserve anything ahead of time? What time of day did you do the bridges? And the volcano hike? I am also trying to decide whether we need to see Tabacon or would enjoy Eco Termales. I don't want huge crowds, just great springs. Do you recommend going to Eco Termales at night and do we reserve that ahead? Thanks so much for any tips!!
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Old Jan 19th, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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fiveholmes - we did not book anything ahead of time - not even the zip line in monteverde - showed up, paid, went that afternoon about an hour later - as for the bridges, you just go to the hanging bridges and buy a ticket - no need to book ahead - and the hiking is in the park so it is just like going ot a national park here - you just pay the entrance fee and go hike - we went to the bridges in the afternoon - had intended to go in the AM, but just didn't feel like it -you are in the rain forest, so not out in the sun, so that was not a facotr - the hiking we were glad we did in the AM - first of all, about 1/2 is in full sun and the hike back around 11:30 was a little hot with the sun on our backs - the park opens at 7 or 8 and we were there when it opened - which is my 2nd reason for liking it: there were not that many people so we were the only ones on the lava flow for a long time and it was cool to be climbing around on that expansive mess of volcanic rock alone - it gives you some time to think about it - many people were with guides, but we just hiked - we tend to like that better though

as far as hot springs - eco was great - our hotel staff booked it for us - they did so around 3:00 and we had no problem getting the reservation which allows you in at 5 - we ate there also - the meal was tortillas, a salad, chicken or beef, veggies, black beans, and really great fruit juice that apparantly changes daily but ours was pineapple and papaya - really good - it was a good deal - we spent time in thge springs, changed, ate dinner, and then went back in the springs - with 3 kids, you may want to just stay in your suits - the entrance is directly across from baldi - a big wooden gate and absolutely no sign - so yuo go up to the gate and push a button and you say that you have a reservation and they say, ok, i will open the gate and the gate opens very slowly, and i am not kidding, it was so funny and movie like becasue it felt so secretive - i don't know if with kids tabacon may be more appealing because they had slides and stuff - i think kids would like any of it though - it is a neat experience

i know some people say you must see tabacon, but having gone to the spa twice and looked around, i don't totally get it - if you have been in the forest and hiked around, that to me is a more amazing way to experience the beauty in this world versus walking around manicured landscaped gardens - but i know for some poeple that is something they appreciate

hope this helps
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Old Jan 20th, 2006 | 10:12 AM
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It is SO helpful. I think either would be great. Keeping my audience in mind, they probably would get a kick out of the "stuff" at Tabacon. Thanks!
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Old Jan 20th, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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My best friend and I are traveling to CR for the first time sometime in April (haven’t booked yet) and would like to stay in Tamarindo for 8-10 days.
I’ve noticed everyone seem to only stay a day or two and then moves to the next destination which is something I would love. My best friend is renting a car. What are my options starting in Tamarindo or should that be our last destination? Does everyone book all Hotels in advance?
Any suggestion of sites with cheap air and hotels? Thanks
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Old Jan 21st, 2006 | 09:34 AM
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we did not book all hotels in advance and did not have a problem getting a place in tamarindo - as far as how long to stay there, that depends what you want to do - there are a whole bunch of beach towns right in a row so you could hop around, or you could just stay there - i see nothing wrong with more than a week in tamarindo becasue i LOVE the beach and typically do at least a week or more at the beach every summer and run there every weekend too! so, for me, staying ther would not be an odd thing - it is a great town - good beach, warm water, easy surfing, decent places to eat, good coffee shops - like i posted, we stayed at a place with a kitchen so stocking up and hanging out in a cool beach/surf scene would be very realxing i think
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Old Jan 22nd, 2006 | 06:52 AM
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Thanks so much Janster. We are finally making reservations tomorrow.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2006 | 07:48 AM
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Hi Janster
Thanks for all the info. What was the weather like in the Arenal area? My husband and I hate heat and humidity but would like to spend 4 days there.
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Old Jan 22nd, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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warias - have fun - meant to mention that tamarindo has a number of other activities: kayaking, catamarans, etc - you can def spend a while there and just relax - there is a parisian panderie (bakery) on the outskirts of town that had amazing quiche, flatbread pizza, pastries, etc - we loved it - oh, really good cappucino also - if you like coconut, have a galetta de coco (basically a macaroon, but sooooo yummy! (note: there is frnech bakery in town also - not that one - did not eat there so have no idea if it is as good)

heatphobe, when are you going? we were there jan 7-11 and the weather was nice - about 80 ish - not a ton of humidity - i wore capris and t shirts most days - and at night wore pants and a jacket - hiked in lightweight hiking pants and was never horrible hot - i know it gets pretty hot there though depending on time of year
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Old Jan 24th, 2006 | 04:55 PM
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I enjoyed your trip report. Glad you wrote about Siempre Verde. We've had breakfast there a couple of times, but have never stayed overnight. It doesn't get much mention on Fodor's, so I'm glad you gave it a nod. It's such a nice little place--and the breakfast there is one of the best we've had in the country.
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