I know where to go in New York and San Francisco if I want to see the natives at play and leisure. Where should I go to see the Parisians on a Sunday in May; what do they like to do on a nice day or a rainy day? Yes, presumably they too go to the Louvre and other tourist attractions, but probably only once a year at most. They must do more than just look good while promenading the avenues and sitting in cafes. Maybe they sit at home and watch "soccer", but for those who don't stay home, where should I go and what should I do to experience Sunday in Paris (doesn't have the same ring as Sunday in New York).

On a warm sunny Sunday in March the Luxembourg Garden was wall-to-wall people. There were even people sitting on the grass-gasp-since every chair was taken.

There are lots of people in the Marais on Sunday since it is one of the few neighborhoods where most stores are open.

The rue Mouffetard market is lively on Sunday, and other street markets open Sunday include the one nearby at Place Monge and the one at the Bastille on boulevard Richard Lenoir.

There is an art and craft market on boulevard Edgar Quinet in Montparnasse.

Marché aux Oiseaux on the Île de la Cité.

As in France as a whole in my experience Sunday mornings are a lively time in the outdoor markets and especially in the cafes, which are often packed and they're not drinking coffee for the most part.

Traditionally i think the women would go to Mass and the men flocked to nearby cafes - now the women may go get some fresh bread and to a market and then fix the still very traditional Sunday midday meal.

The boulangeries typically have long lines on Sunday mornings as bread gathers get fresh bread for the Sunday repast - in France bread for these occasions must be fresh.

Sunday afternoons many cafes close, boulangeries as well and many folk i know like to go for a stroll so on nice days parks will be full of strollers.

Nearly no one in France goes to Mass anymore but the churches are open for the few, mainly old ladies it seems, who dutifully go to Mass so you may also take in a church service.

Sunday morning is a great time to be walking around neighborhoods as there is oft a buzz of activity.

My favorite place is right next to Marais.... It is Place de Vosage. Usually on Sundays there are musicians playing. I took my sister there and she agreed listening to talented people playing classical music was just awesome.

Anyone looking for "de Vosage" - try the spelling variant "des Vosges."

Also Parc Monceau and the Champs Elysee.

According to Piaf, they dance!

(Je m'en fous pas mal)

Well, one quirky but popular Sunday excursion is to go the mosque! Honest! To be more specific, there is a beautiful café in the Paris mosque that is hugely popular amongst Parisians as a venue for lunch (or for tea in the afternoon). It combines well with a walk in the Jardins des Plantes or a visit to the Natural History Museum.

I hope you manage to savour the delights of a Parisian Sunday. Perhpas the most civilised Sunday ever.
Nicky
editor / hidden europe magazine
www.hiddeneurope.co.uk

on a nice day what certainly appeared to be local families(!) were out at Luxembourg Gardens.

Many Parisian families have a long lunch with relatives or friends, either in a restaurant or at home, and then go out for walks in the parks.

Parisians are notoriously late risers on Sunday, as evidenced by the very light traffic before noon. They normally drag themselves to the local street market between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. and a lot of them wouldn't imagine starting lunch before 1 or 2 p.m. After that, anything goes, depending on the weather -- lots of Parisians go to their local park if they have small kids. If they have a car (more than 50% of Parisians do not), they might go out to one of the forests -- Fontainebleau, Verrières, Versailles, Saint Germain-en-Laye, Ermenonville, Chantilly or others. Shopping freaks will go to the Marais, where the shops are open. Or they'll spend the afternoon at Ikea in the burbs. Many Parisians visit interesting expos, but rarely museums. Lots of people go to the movies on Sunday afternoon, especially if the weather isn't great.

The biggest draw for Parisians for the next two weeks will be the Foire de Paris. (www.foiredeparis.fr) Teenagers will hang out in the sleaze of the Foire du Trone which runs until the end of May. (www.foiredutrone.com) For historical reasons, it is worth mentioning that the Foire du Trone has existed for 1050 years -- and probably parents were criticizing their offspring for going there already more than 1000 years ago.

I second going to the Luxembourg Gardens (any garden actually) and the Mosquee de Paris' cafe/restaurant. Also try having a coffee on the Ile St. Louis at Le Flore en L'Ile (nice terrace view).

Mass - in a catholic church - and not Notre Dame.

Mass would be interesting in my neighborhood. At Saint Bernard, most of the congregation is African and at Saint Denys de la Chapelle, the faithful are Indian. Maybe a few old French women mixed in.

I'd go to a park, also, but what does anyone do on a nice Sunday in May, in any city? I go to museums in my hometown more than once a year (probablay once a year "at most"? -- depends on the person). I go at least once a month, but not to the same one. But I don't like to do that in really nice weather, you want to be outside. I've been to Mass in a Catholic church on Sunday in Paris (not a tourist magnet one), and it was definitely not that full. Sure, you would find Parisians in there, though, but there are better places, and more interesting ones.

I'm surprised no one has come up with this yet:tinyurl.com/9t2nc

That's about how up-to-date a lot of the information is on this board!