This Spain trip was seven years in the making! Originally going to happen in 2010 but an exhausting teaching year with a psycho principal took its toll on yours truly. We cancelled…no real fees at that time as we used our frequent flyer miles….today would have been a different story! We have been to several other countries between now and then and now Spain was back on!

My spouse, Linda, and I had visited Madrid and Marbella 15 years ago and were eager to return to explore some other key cities. Our friend whom we have travelled with before had never been to Spain and wanted to join us. Three women take on Espana!

We knew we didn’t want to drive/rent a car as driving/parking in or near historical cores are difficult (personal experience). We were up for the trains and agreed pack “light.”

I knew we had to go back to Madrid to re-visit the Royal Palace and the Prado. We knew we wanted to take in Seville and Toledo. We thought we would day trip to Toledo from Madrid and then day trip to Cordoba from Seville, but upon reflection,5thought we’d make overnights in those cities instead. Good decision! With the extreme heat, doing a day trip to Toledo and Cordoba would have been a miserable experience. Decided on Barcelona, too, to experience the Sagrada Familia.

We are United folks…the credit cards, the club passes, all that. So I started looking 11 months out for an itinerary that would work. It was best flying out of SFO to Barcelona and then flying home from Seville. I actually booked the tickets for the outgoing first before the inbound opened up, keeping my fingers crossed that award seats would open on the return. And they were! There were even two business class seats on the return for Linda and our friend. I had an Economy Plus subscription so I didn’t mind staying in Economy Plus.

Our itinerary looked like this:
Three nights in Barcelona
Two nights in Madrid
One night in Toledo
One night in Cordoba
Three nights in Seville

That distribution actually worked well in hindsight. I started shopping the trains 90 days out looking for the elusive super cheap promotional fares on the longer rides. Never found them but did find some “promo” fares to book. I used the renfre website even though the information was in Spanish…switched back and forth to the sputtering English website long enough to get the gist of everything. For hotel shopping, I use tripadvisor, Rick Steves, Frommers, this forum, and booking.com…doing a lot of cross-referencing.

Barcelona 6/12-6/14

The hotel was Hostal Grau located near the hub of Plaza Catalunya and the Ramblas. About a year prior I had booked their one bedroom apartment (exterior) that boasted four twin beds and a kitchenette. The price was right at $540 for three nights. At that time, I wasn’t sure if my sister would be joining us or possibly another friend, and if not, I reckoned, the extra space wouldn’t be a bad idea. When we arrived in Barcelona, we immediately headed outside the baggage claim area to take the “airport bus.” These are shuttle buses that make four stops into Barcelona with the last being Plaza Catalunya. The cost was 5.90 euros each. I had read that though there might be long lines, they would go quickly. This was true. Part of the line was that some travelers were purchasing their tickets at the front of the line causing a slight delay. There was a kiosk where you could buy your tickets with cash or a credit card, but half the crowd waited until boarding. The luggage racks did a good job of accommodating everyone’s luggage on board and we were off. About 20 minutes later we arrived at Plaza Catalunya. With our back to the big El Corte Inglis store, we crossed the square, veered right and took the second left down “our” pedestrian only street.

We were greeted by the receptionist and like we had to do the entire trip, handed over our passports for recording. The room was on the 5th floor and we zoomed up in the modern elevator. There was a narrow antechamber you’d entered before coming into the main room. There were two single beds together and a third bed against the wall, two night stands, a chair, footstool, and an armoire. The next room held a sofa bed, tv set on a chest, another chest with extra pillows, blankets, and towels in one section and then a kitchen table with four chairs in the other. The kitchenette comprised of a sink, microwave, and mini fridge. Cutlery and plates were stacked around. The bathroom had a walk in shower, no tub, with a modern concrete floor…no slipping there! Toiletries were non-existent except for a specially made liquid lavender soap in dispenser the bathroom sink and another in the shower. Checking the website about a month before the trip, I read that the room changed from four twin beds to two twin beds and two sofa beds. I asked that the sofa bed be replaced with a “real” twin bed, not wanting our adult friend to suffer with poor back support. Would I stay there again? Not sure. Mostly clean but when I saw the dust and grime on the air conditioner wall unit’s blades, not so sure. There were two ceiling fans and only one worked and they were unable to repair the second fan in the living room area with the sofabed. The provided soap was watery and felt ineffective. The toilet wasn’t bolted down properly and so when you sat on the seat, it would clunk against the wall. The mini refrigerator’s freezer was caked thick with ice and a prior occupant’s ice bag was frozen to the bottom. We mentioned the toilet and the freezer and the fan to the front office…..the bag was removed, but the freezer ice remained. The toilet was never repaired (even though we were told it was).

Two restaurant recommendations were great…next door Bar Centric was the perfect places for scrambled eggs and ham each morning. The tapas in the evening were tasty and reasonable: the meatballs served in a little skillet with amazing gravy, the humus, and the eggplant in honey. The other restaurant, Estevet (Valldonzella, 46) was about a 10-minute walk away and was billed as an authentic Catalan restaurant. We were the only ones in the place at 5PM and it turned out to be one of our favorite meals. Can’t remember what we ate….but we all agreed it was tasty and a find. One lunch we went to the 9th floor of the nearby big department store El Corte Inglis and went to cafeteria. Roasted chicken, paella, and a designer salad were things we shared for a reasonable price and great views.

Highlights: Sagrada Familia certainly was (advanced tickets a must…audio was a bit of a waste and repetitive). Walked by other Gaudi buildings, visited the Cathedral during the free evening hour (had to cover my bar shoulders before going in), and visited some shopping areas as mentioned in Frommers and Rick Steves. We love looking at local and regional crafts and found some beautiful pieces in Barcelona. One hot afternoon we tried to walk from our hotel to the Mediterranean Sea, but it was too long and too hot and so we aborted and took a bus home. The metro ticket is such that we can buy 10 rides on one ticket and share. One of us would insert the ticket, go through the turnstile, and the next person would take the ticket out of the machine and repeat.



Madrid 6/15-6/16

We took an early train to Madrid and taxied to the train station (15 euros). It seemed a bit daunting to take the metro especially since parts of the station had only stairs and with our luggage…well…difficult. Trains in Spain worked out well for us! We managed to always find room at the end of our coach to store our 25-inch sized luggage. Seats were comfortable, signage was clear, bathroom was serviceable.

I had emailed the hotel, Hostal Acapulco, about the best station to exit with luggage. The owner recommended Gran Via but in retrospect he should have said Sol. Gran Via required us to haul our luggage up stairs while we later discovered Sol had elevator and escalator access and was actually closer to the hotel. Hostal Acapulco (HA) was located on the fifth floor of building off Plaza Carmen I picked this hotel because of the metro access, the proximity to the downtown area, and the fact that the hotel would do our laundry for free ($151. for two nights and laundry). The room was small with two twin beds, flimsy sheets, and thin mattresses. The bathroom was tiny with a plastic Marilyn Monroe shower curtain. At first I thought we could make this work especially for the price. But the walls were paper thin and the noise from the other rooms at night made sleep impossible. We complained one night about loud, incessant talking only to have the neighbor tell us we were crazy….that he was all alone…until a woman walked out of the room and he looked rather sheepish. The “free” washing ended up costing us 8 euros even though I had it in in an email that the washing would be free. Not a hill to die on. No breakfast served. There was a reasonably priced restaurant around the corner called Puerto Rico that served a roast chicken dish with chips. One day for breakfast we went to the hotel next door, Hotel Liabeny, for their expansive breakfast buffet. It was pricey at 15 euro each but it was nice to feel completely full. Would I stay at HA again? Definitely not. Anna at the front desk was a sweetheart, though, and championed my washing cause with the manager because at first they weren’t going to do the laundry at all. She also helped me figure out the Spanish only Royal Palace website (the English version wasn’t cooperating) so I could order advanced tickets.

Highlights: We went to Madrid primarily for the Palace and the Prado. I ordered tickets on-line the night before we went and were able to sail right in past the long line of ticket buyers. Didn’t rent the audio as the Rick Steves Palace tour description was fine. Love that palace, and I have seen many in Europe…definitely one of my faves. Later that afternoon, two of us went to the Prado. Took the metro and then walked about 20 minutes to the entrance in the broiling sun. We originally were going to wait until the free time in the late afternoon, but it was expected to get even hotter then so we nixed that idea. Compared to the Louvre I find the Prado easier to navigate. The Prado even put out a guide highlighting the “highlights” in each room. It was delightful to spend several hours there. Tracked down San Gines, the famous thick hot chocolate and churros place, and was rewarded with a delectable delight.



Toledo 6/17

Arrived in the late morning ( easy to take the Sol metro from our hotel to Atocha train station) on another hot day (three digits). I was so glad we were going to spend the night as the taxi zipped us up the hill to Hotel Santa Isabel. Realizing all those folks who exited the train station would be traipsing around in the heat all day didn’t sound appealing at all. Hotel Santa Isabel is located about a five minute walk from the cathedral. The room was large and cool, toiletries were excellent, and the room extremely quiet. Although we were next to the elevator I didn’t hear a sound. Our friend’s smaller room worked well for her. A 5 euro breakfast was included in our rate of $96 a night.

Highlights: The city was involved in a Corpus Christi celebration. The city’s buildings were festooned with ribbons, garlands, and flowers. Banners spilled over balconies. It was quite the celebration in the cathedral’s square that night with singers, dancers, and skits. Enjoyed the cathedral and walking the streets. Had a good meal and enjoying the grilled swordfish and the gazpacho-type cold tomato soup.

Cordoba 6/18

This would be a long travel day…taxi to the Toledo train station, train to Madrid with a ½ hour to figure out where to catch the Cordoba train. Moving luggage off and on the trains wasn’t difficult. Having only one piece of luggage each and a purse/backpack made staying on the go possible. We arrived in Cordoba in the mid afternoon and took a taxi to the hotel. It was a 25-minute walk but again, facing triple digit heat, heat stroke was not an option. The hotel I chose was the NH Amistad Cordoba. It was located near the Mezquita, our primary destination, against the old city wall. The rate of $125 included breakfast. On the train I had read a trip advisor report recommending to request a room facing the city wall to ensure a quiet night vs. a room that faces a courtyard. We did and the room was very quiet. Felt like a European four star, the room was classy, functional, and had a big, glossy bathroom. The breakfast the next day was a gourmet delight. In addition to being able to create your own omelet, there were fresh juices, meats, fruits of all sorts, breads, pastries, jams….it was quiet a spread.

After we settled in we walked the 10-minute walk (at most) to the Mezquita. Due to the Corpus Christi festivities the place would be closing early….in about 45-minutes time. Ouch! We popped for admission and spent 45 glorious minutes exploring a place I had seen pictures of in history texts. It wasn’t very crowded which allowed us a lot of space to fully explore. It truly was a highlight of the trip. We went back again the following morning during the free 8:30-9:20 time. Again, wasn’t that crowded as in part, tour groups are not allowed. Just before we left the hotel, we exited the hotel turned left and walked a few yards and ended up at the Arte Zocos , an artist cooperative, and found some art to bring home.

Seville 6/19-6/22

Ahh, beautiful Sevilla! Friendly people, interesting architecture, the Alcazar and the cathedral. I booked ourde rooms at Hotel Alminar (a little over $100 a night) , literally a three-minute walk to the cathedral. The Sevilla hotel decision was the one that was most difficult for me. I was looking at two hotels that had the ambiance I wanted, another that was across the river in Triana that included breakfast. I chose Alminar because of its proximity to the two keys sites, the reasonable price, and Rick Steves had described the proprietor, Francisco, as being “well-dressed and never stressed.” With 107 degree heat, the decision to stay close to the historic core was a good one. There was one afternoon of our three when it was just too hot to safely venture outside. The room was fine with strong air conditioning. Ours had two twins pushed together with a third bed in the room which was great for supporting our suitcases. There was a mini-fridge with “welcome” waters and soda, a safe, a closet with shelves and a clothes hanging area. Bathroom was good size…steep sides to the tub for stepping over. The best part was Francisco and the other proprietor, Danny. Francisco patiently mapped out key sites, made restaurant suggestions, and seemed to take a personal interest in our satisfaction. Francisco recommended restaurant, Mamarracha, was so good ( a bit of farm to table mentality, grilled food, and wonderful patte), we went there twice. Another recommendation was Bar Estrella where we sampled traditional tapas under the dead-eye gazes of bull heads. Danny was engaging, quick, and bright…the two made excellent hoteliers. And did Danny’s help come in handy for our friend!

On the last full day after feeling unwell the day prior, our friend wanted to see a doctor. As a cancer survivor, she is very attuned to health issues and felt the congestion in her lungs and hacking cough could be a problem before our flight home. Danny arranged an appointment at a nearby clinic, telling us that if we could arrive before 12:30 (three hours hence) we would be able to see a doctor, a female doctor, right away. The folder of “welcome to the hotel” information mentioned a 40 euro cash payment when making a doctor’s visit. By the time the three of us came down to reception, Danny had already mapped out the easy 10-minute walk to the doctor’s office. We were seen right away, exam performed, communication awkward but both parties were able to figure things out, and a diagnosis of bronchitis. We walked four doors down to the pharmacy where the three prescriptions (including a 3-day antibiotic) were picked up in minutes. What a smooth process! I thank Danny for helping with a potentially difficult situation.

Highlights: The Alcazar! The heat made the gardens impossible to do extensive roaming but it would have been such fun to explore every crevice. The palace itself was a marvel. We went room to room following the Rick Steve’s script, marveling at the patterns, designs, and motifs of this still-used palace. Suggestions I read in visiting the cathedral was to visit the other church first to get the the two church combination ticket to avoid the line at the cathedral. Church of the Savior (Iglesia del Salvador) was an easy 15-minute walk from the cathedral and we quite enjoyed the heavy, in-your-face baroque style altarpieces (14 of ‘em) of that church first. Well worth it. We then headed to the cathedral and avoided the line.
We explored some shopping areas and visited one art collective, El Postigo, where different artists were featured and purchased the last off our gifts/souvenirs/art. The basement of the nearby El Corte Inglis department store was a good place to buy fruit and water.

All in all it was a great trip! But I gotta say the heat was too much and curtailed a lot of afternoon activities. People in Spain commented that it was more July/August weather than June. It was really too hot to be out and about and we are walkers! I was pleased with our itinerary and would do the same one in a heartbeat. No regrets about all the trains and the one night stays. My least favorite city was Toledo, but I would have always wondered about the cathedral. The decorations for the Corpus Christi festival really made that city for me. Seeing the El Grecos in the Prado the day before was a great mood setter for Toledo. I strongly recommend staying as close as possible to your key sites…it was worth the extra dollars to stay central in Cordoba and Toledo. The dazzling Mezquita, the many cathedrals, the Moorish architecture, the great food, and the exceptional hospitality from Francisco and Danny will stay with me for a long time.

What a great trip report! Thank you for posting.

So enjoyed your trip description. I was in Madrid, Toledo, Granada, Seville, Cordoba from June 2-11 and the unusual heat was just starting as we left. My traveling companion is a teacher & trip came as soon as possible after the end of her school year. We did Madrid on our own but were on a Globus tour for other places. Very interesting that the Mezquita opens early for non tour groups. We also used Rick Steves as our guide in Madrid's Royal Palace and Seville's Alcazar. Hot but bearable for us in the gardens, probably would have been pleasant for the morning. I'm still working on my trip report, just posted the Granada description.

Thank you for a helpful, informative trip report. All these summer reports make me glad I am going in late October/early November. The down side of it, though, is that dark arrives early and things don't have the same long hours as peak tourist season.....I'll live
I realize it might be dictated by time, but was Granada ever a consideration?

marigross: thank you!
CLB travel: enjoying your report, too!
quiltingmamma: We visited Granada briefly...just to see the Alhambra on our prior trip. It was a long bus ride, but I knew we'd never be that far south again. Definitely a bucket list item.

Enjoying everyone's reports. We will be in Madrid and Andalusia from Sept 18 to Oct 3. Hoping the weather will be cooler.

Thanks for the great trip report!

Hello, my name is María and I'm an official tourism guide in Toledo (Spain).
If you need me I would like to show you my beautiful city. I can speak: Spanish, English and French and a little of Chinese.
My phne number is: (00 34) 649 22 35 93.
My e- mailpepipedro at yahoo .es

Thank you very much for your attention
Warm regards,
María