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Costa d'Amalfi: a TR

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Costa d'Amalfi: a TR

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Old Dec 19th, 2023 | 01:07 AM
  #61  
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This is one of the best trip reports ever.
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Old Jan 10th, 2024 | 04:02 PM
  #62  
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Grazie per the high praise BV! And also continued thanks to Baz, Geetika, Nikki, KW and Pink Sandra.

Answers to Quiz @#39:

1) stanco means 'tired'.
2) Rick Steves got the free product placement in that flick.
3) Bob Dylan did that painting and its not bad.
4) Esher is identified with Atrani.
5) Ragazzi means 'children'.
6) a pistrice is a mythical sea beast (see Jonah); also seen across Provence.

I am done. the next TR
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Old Jan 11th, 2024 | 04:47 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by zebec
Grazie per the high praise BV! And also continued thanks to Baz, Geetika, Nikki, KW and Pink Sandra.

Answers to Quiz @#39:


5) Ragazzi means 'children'.
6) a pistrice is a mythical sea beast (see Jonah); also seen across Provence.

I am done. the next TR
Ragazzo is used for anyone between ages 12 and 35.

From 0 to 1, a child is a "neonato". From 1 to about 6, he's a "bimbo". From 6 to about 13, he's a "ragazzino".

Bambino is the general word for a child, but it's not used for teens or young adults.

I never heard of a pistrice before. You've taught me a new Italian word! However, the Bible just says Jonah was swallowed by a big fish (un grosso pesce).

​​​​
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Old Jan 11th, 2024 | 10:11 AM
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Thank you yet again BV---I did not know about that categorization regarding 'ragazzo'. Interesting that its 12-35. Can't think of another corresponding language equivalent for that span elsewhere.

As for pistrices, we actually saw Jonah depicted cowering from a pair of them in one historic stone carving displayed in our rental hallway. The Gambardella family who own the building had a series of old stone art relics shown throughout their various halls.
The pistrices that we saw in Avignon were different, shown as colorful mosaic creations. Some had unusual crochet/yarn decorations placed atop and that's what caught our eye there. Don't know the origin of the word, but at first glance it does seem to fit Italian patterns.

Its good that we are having these discussions, coz if one doesn't learn something from their trips, it can seem like travel has somehow been lost on them. Nothing wrong with enjoying a cruise and/or relaxing on a beach drink in hand for the whole time. But that's never been us.

I am done. the costa
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Old Jan 12th, 2024 | 01:46 PM
  #65  
 
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Originally Posted by zebec
Zebec has been detained in the notorious 'al Fodoria' prison, reserved for the very worst travel forum offenders. He is tied up, gagged and seated in the middle of a dirty basement room. A single naked lightbulb sways above. Eugene Fodor sits in the corner of the smoky room, wordlessly leafing through a Hustler magazine. Across the way, the young blonde administrative assistant Pamela taps at her laptop. Wearing a monocle, Fodor issues commands with the slightest mere nod. Fodor nods to his fierce interrogator Wilhelm to begin the session.

Wilhelm: (holds out pen) "Sign zee papers, old man."
Zebec: (gaffers tape covering his mouth) "Aeyahkoannuoght! (I cannot)."
Wilhelm: "JAH SIGN ZEE PAPERS NOW ZEBEC, UNT MAKE PROMISE NO MORE TRIP REPORTS WIZ 10,000 PHOTOS!!"
Zebec: "Aeyammnaweepltoozoezisdime (I am not able to do so at this time)."
Wilhelm: "SIGN ZEE PAPERS NOW YOU FILTHY ZEBEC OR ELSE...(quietly, ominously) maybe I fetch my torture kit?"
Fodor smirks loudly, whether at Wilhelm's comment or instead at something he sees in Hustler is unclear.
At this point, Pamela stops typing and flees the room.

Zebec (trying to remain calm): "Ahamuhfrriedzhat... (I am afraid that...)"
Wilhelm (interrupting, losing control of temper) "UNT WHY NOT YOU CAN'T SIGN ZEE PAPERS?!"
Zebec: "Baykkunstzhooahffdyedmahnzpeehanmahbakk (because you have tied my hands behind my back)."

The End.


Please come this way for our initial overview.

Tramonti is the main vinicultural area here, but Marisa Cuomo's winery is instead located in Furore.

Minori is a great base. It is less expensive than say Amalfi, Positano or Capri, and way less crowded during shoulder season. It also offers a real taste of genuine small town culture.

Few realize that Minori is a GREAT place to eat. It has a trio of excellent delis (for outstanding sandwiches), a dedicated pasta producer plus the well-known Sal de Riso. The latter is not just a pastry place--it is also a full-on restaurant with a good range of offerings. See also its gelato corner for vitamin 'G'.

Although most ceramics are made in Vietri, one sees examples all across the coast. Shown here, the town of Minori as depicted by a talented artist.

Another example.

There was good quality throughout.

The unfortunate Vesuvius victims evident at Herculaneum. You may recall reading about them in the National Geographic cover story from decades ago (the woman still wearing her rings). These skeletons are currently prohibited from the public, as extensive renos are underway to upgrade the pathway in front.

Our rental apartment (Le Zinefra) was that rare thing across the coast: a mid-range property with its own antique lift! That cut down on the number of steps coming and going. Owners Anna and Oscar Gambardella offer excellent value. Their description of '360 degree views' was accurate. Shown here through our rear-facing, floor-to-ceiling kitchen window, the town's church.

Our aforementioned rental had a big terrace. It can be seen to the far left in this shot, its black iron rail frame just visible in the distance, appearing as though jutting out from the top domed window. We were equidistant between Sal de Riso and his bro Alesandro's similar cafe, each about a 2 minute walk away.

This overview continues with a shot of sunrise anglers. Later in this TR, we'll focus on the local fishing culture, alive and well and a key reason to visit.

Fishful thinking? That's no problem here. Plenty of Barnacle Bruno types.

We'd liked to have spent more time in tiny Albori, a village up near Vietri.

As for transportation in Minori, the SITA public buses run frequently both ways. Nearby Amalfi is the main bus and ferry hub. Taxis are easy to arrange.

Antonio Nuschese is a local taxi driver (39 335 52 43 689). He would've been the driver to meet us in Salerno after our train came down from Rome, but Air Canada canceled our original flight (don't get me started). We later bumped into Antonio a few times throughout our stay, including during the passegiata on lungomare California.

But our main connection was Mario Arzano (39) 39224740407. Mario is property manager for Le Zinefra plus a dozen other rentals. He also offers a couple apartments at his own home up in tiny Torre. That home is directly on The Path of Lemons and the views there are worth crossing an ocean for. Mario is both wonderful and reliable, a fixer who will solve your concerns. *He also partners with excellent taxi driver Patrizio Amato (39 339 2490908) Above, Mario returns from a canine painting class.

A bust that we saw in Herculaneum's gift shop. Herculaneum will be featured in an extended section later on here. It was our second visit. We chose it again only coz Pompeii is much larger and has little shade. We also prefer smaller crowds. *Those familiar with my mishap getting stuck in the WC upon arrival, know that my therapist says that I'm now finally ready to visit ancient ruins once more (more about that trauma later).

An unusual sight up in Ravello.

Another unexpected sight. Above is Giuseppe Siragusa. He won the 2023 'David Hasselhof Amalfi Coast Lifeguard of the Year' award. Seen here, he is reminding us that removing anything such as sand or rocks from local beaches is prohibited under Italian law.

Truman Capote's old 'Persifal' cliff-side home can be seen just below Ravello, sandwiched between its seaside section Marmoretta. That property was recently for sale, but it seems that the heavenly asking price scared off any serious buyers.

We passed this oft-sleepy dog a number of times. He lazed around the tiny square beside the pasta-maker's shop.

Speaking of dogs, this poster was created by students at the local elementary school. It was part of a series of municipal service posters they'd created, reminding folks of their public responsibilities to pick up garbage and whatnot. Love the way that the entire class signed their names!

Little darling waves during her ride. *Next: the local fishing culture in Cetara.


A postcard come to life. That's the Amalfi coast. Welcome to our latest Trip Report. It will be in two parts, this coastal coverage followed later on by a separate section on the isle of Ischia. A tiny pinch of Rome will be included in the latter. Mrs Z and I first visited this famed area during Xmas '90, but that had been a mere couple hours on a daytrip to a rainy Positano. This TR will cover our voyage from this past March. We based in Minori. Daytrips: Cetara, Ravello, Albori, Torre, Vettica Maggiore, Amalfi, Atrani, Tramonti, Maori and Herculaneum. We twice walked The Path of the Lemons.
As always, we will try to combine music, humour, imagery plus logistical tips. That imagery will include some of the usual suspect cliche stereotypes, plus ceramics, history/archaeology, fine art, fishing culture and more.
Clicking on images will reduce size and sometimes increase quality.
Love it! Some really great info.
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Old Jan 24th, 2024 | 05:04 PM
  #66  
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For those interested in the Vesuvius eruption and subsequent excavations, The History Channel's 'Drain the Ocean' series has a recent episode detailing Pompeii and Herculaneum. It is well worth watching, as it features a series of modern archaeologists and other experts.
I am done. the learning
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Old Feb 22nd, 2024 | 12:52 PM
  #67  
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Wow Zebec! Your report and photos are A M A Z I N G ! I feel like I have there! Thank you so very much for documenting all of your trip and sharing. You are so helpful to me with deciding where to go next!

Brittany is high on our list! Awaiting that report.
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