zebec

Zebec has been detained in the notorious 'al Fodoria' prison, reserved for the very worst travel forum offenders. He is tied up, gagged and seated in the middle of a dirty basement room. A single naked lightbulb sways above. Eugene Fodor sits in the corner of the smoky room, wordlessly leafing through a Hustler magazine. Across the way, the young blonde administrative assistant Pamela taps at her laptop. Wearing a monocle, Fodor issues commands with the slightest mere nod. Fodor nods to his fierce interrogator Wilhelm to begin the session.

Wilhelm: (holds out pen) "Sign zee papers, old man."
Zebec: (gaffers tape covering his mouth) "Aeyahkoannuoght! (I cannot)."
Wilhelm: "JAH SIGN ZEE PAPERS NOW ZEBEC, UNT MAKE PROMISE NO MORE TRIP REPORTS WIZ 10,000 PHOTOS!!"
Zebec: "Aeyammnaweepltoozoezisdime (I am not able to do so at this time)."
Wilhelm: "SIGN ZEE PAPERS NOW YOU FILTHY ZEBEC OR ELSE...(quietly, ominously) maybe I fetch my torture kit?"
Fodor smirks loudly, whether at Wilhelm's comment or instead at something he sees in Hustler is unclear.
At this point, Pamela stops typing and flees the room.

Zebec (trying to remain calm): "Ahamuhfrriedzhat... (I am afraid that...)"
Wilhelm (interrupting, losing control of temper) "UNT WHY NOT YOU CAN'T SIGN ZEE PAPERS?!"
Zebec: "Baykkunstzhooahffdyedmahnzpeehanmahbakk (because you have tied my hands behind my back)."

The End.

Please come this way for our initial overview.

Tramonti is the main vinicultural area here, but Marisa Cuomo's winery is instead located in Furore.

Minori is a great base. It is less expensive than say Amalfi, Positano or Capri, and way less crowded during shoulder season. It also offers a real taste of genuine small town culture.

Few realize that Minori is a GREAT place to eat. It has a trio of excellent delis (for outstanding sandwiches), a dedicated pasta producer plus the well-known Sal de Riso. The latter is not just a pastry place--it is also a full-on restaurant with a good range of offerings. See also its gelato corner for vitamin 'G'.

Although most ceramics are made in Vietri, one sees examples all across the coast. Shown here, the town of Minori as depicted by a talented artist.

Another example.

There was good quality throughout.

The unfortunate Vesuvius victims evident at Herculaneum. You may recall reading about them in the National Geographic cover story from decades ago (the woman still wearing her rings). These skeletons are currently prohibited from the public, as extensive renos are underway to upgrade the pathway in front.

Our rental apartment (Le Zinefra) was that rare thing across the coast: a mid-range property with its own antique lift! That cut down on the number of steps coming and going. Owners Anna and Oscar Gambardella offer excellent value. Their description of '360 degree views' was accurate. Shown here through our rear-facing, floor-to-ceiling kitchen window, the town's church.

Our aforementioned rental had a big terrace. It can be seen to the far left in this shot, its black iron rail frame just visible in the distance, appearing as though jutting out from the top domed window. We were equidistant between Sal de Riso and his bro Alesandro's similar cafe, each about a 2 minute walk away.

This overview continues with a shot of sunrise anglers. Later in this TR, we'll focus on the local fishing culture, alive and well and a key reason to visit.

Fishful thinking? That's no problem here. Plenty of Barnacle Bruno types.

We'd liked to have spent more time in tiny Albori, a village up near Vietri.

As for transportation in Minori, the SITA public buses run frequently both ways. Nearby Amalfi is the main bus and ferry hub. Taxis are easy to arrange.

Antonio Nuschese is a local taxi driver (39 335 52 43 689). He would've been the driver to meet us in Salerno after our train came down from Rome, but Air Canada canceled our original flight (don't get me started). We later bumped into Antonio a few times throughout our stay, including during the passegiata on lungomare California.

But our main connection was Mario Arzano (39) 39224740407. Mario is property manager for Le Zinefra plus a dozen other rentals. He also offers a couple apartments at his own home up in tiny Torre. That home is directly on The Path of Lemons and the views there are worth crossing an ocean for. Mario is both wonderful and reliable, a fixer who will solve your concerns. *He also partners with excellent taxi driver Patrizio Amato (39 339 2490908) Above, Mario returns from a canine painting class.

A bust that we saw in Herculaneum's gift shop. Herculaneum will be featured in an extended section later on here. It was our second visit. We chose it again only coz Pompeii is much larger and has little shade. We also prefer smaller crowds. *Those familiar with my mishap getting stuck in the WC upon arrival, know that my therapist says that I'm now finally ready to visit ancient ruins once more (more about that trauma later).

An unusual sight up in Ravello.

Another unexpected sight. Above is Giuseppe Siragusa. He won the 2023 'David Hasselhof Amalfi Coast Lifeguard of the Year' award. Seen here, he is reminding us that removing anything such as sand or rocks from local beaches is prohibited under Italian law.

Truman Capote's old 'Persifal' cliff-side home can be seen just below Ravello, sandwiched between its seaside section Marmoretta. That property was recently for sale, but it seems that the heavenly asking price scared off any serious buyers.

We passed this oft-sleepy dog a number of times. He lazed around the tiny square beside the pasta-maker's shop.

Speaking of dogs, this poster was created by students at the local elementary school. It was part of a series of municipal service posters they'd created, reminding folks of their public responsibilities to pick up garbage and whatnot. Love the way that the entire class signed their names!

Little darling waves during her ride. *Next: the local fishing culture in Cetara.


A postcard come to life. That's the Amalfi coast. Welcome to our latest Trip Report. It will be in two parts, this coastal coverage followed later on by a separate section on the isle of Ischia. A tiny pinch of Rome will be included in the latter. Mrs Z and I first visited this famed area during Xmas '90, but that had been a mere couple hours on a daytrip to a rainy Positano. This TR will cover our voyage from this past March. We based in Minori. Daytrips: Cetara, Ravello, Albori, Torre, Vettica Maggiore, Amalfi, Atrani, Tramonti, Maori and Herculaneum. We twice walked The Path of the Lemons.
As always, we will try to combine music, humour, imagery plus logistical tips. That imagery will include some of the usual suspect cliche stereotypes, plus ceramics, history/archaeology, fine art, fishing culture and more.
Clicking on images will reduce size and sometimes increase quality.

zebec

Here is Italy's 'Matia Bazaar', one of their premier rock bands during the 70s and 80s. I caught them live back in '82. Although they hailed from Genoa, this band were popular throughout the country. That popularity was due to their songwriting plus their superstar singer Antonella--think Ann Wilson from Heart. This song is 'Cavallo Bianco' (white horse). Enjoy.

zebec

Cetara (chay-tar-uh) remains a real working fish port. If memory serves, its name means 'whale'. Bourdain was but one travel luminary who sang its praises.

It makes for a fantastic daytrip or even a base.

It also has an unusually high number of excellent restaurants for such a small place. Seen here is Gennaro, owner of the justly popular 'Aqua Pazza' restaurant. He had taken us next door to show his 'Colatura di alici' workshop. That was where he created his signature stinky fish sauce.

In its liquid form, its salty taste goes well with vegetables, rice, pasta and eggs. One might call it a modern version of the ancient Roman 'garum' fish sauce staple. Btw, that restaurant name means 'crazy water', in reference of the traditional habit of fishermen boiling their meals.

Gennaro did something while we dined, that demonstrated his noble character. An African tweener refugee had come to hawk flowers table to table. Far from being irritated, Gennaro instead patiently mentored her on the best places in town where one might try to sell flowers. A classy guy.

Also while we dined, an unshy cat kept creeping up on Mrs Z from behind. That gato would move its paw to touch her, but would do so in extreme slow motion. Such a measured pace! Never seen anything like it. Hilarious.

Some fishermen were veterans.

Some were young Turks.

Some veterans assisted the young Turks.

There was a very palpable good vibe to Cetara.

Cetara is a typical town, one yet to be overrun by commercial tourism.

It hits that sweet spot well, and for us ranks as an essential visit, right up there with Ravello.

Beachcombers will enjoy walking here.

It offers much to painters and

also photographers.

One can arrive at Cetara either from say, Minori or Amalfi.

Or instead coming from the opposite side, from larger Salerno (the train hub for the area and gateway to Paestum). We saw what appeared to be the very first cruises leaving port with tourists.

The golden hour in Cetara. Big Salerno in the background distance.

Ay raggazzi!

We conclude this section with a bonus shot of a fisherman in Conca dei Marini.
*Next: Herculaneum.

dfrostnh

You naughty boy.
my first and only trip to Italy was a few years ago. I went for plein air lessons taught by someone I knew wo was first generation American.mwe stayed in the town where her parents used to live and our rooms were in a monastery. Mornings were spent touring the Amalfi coast, eating at a wonderful restaurent and having a light meal back at the monastery. I only set up to paint one time since I prefered to wandermthe streets of wherever we were. If I recall correctly, our visit to Herculeum was combined with a visit and lunch at a water buffalo farm.

zebec

Hi DF, I've read about those water buffalo and their famed white cheese. Out near the Greek ruins at Paestum, no? Apparently, the museum at that site is now closed for renos, but the site itself remains open.
Staying at a monastery while in Italy is an essential experience in my opinion. There is a wide variety of choices across Italy and doing one's homework about them will pay off.
Please don't hesitate to tell us more here.

gruezi

Bold, Ze!

Beautiful photos, too. I’m waiting for a photo of you and your bride.

zebec

En route to Herculaneum, we traversed the inland parts of greater Naples. Later, I'll post a description of our (mis)adventure staying with an upper class Napoli family during Xmas '90.

Did you know that Vesuvius is actually dwarfed by a much larger 'super-volcano'? It apparently is underneath the city plus the gulf, including some of the isles like Ischia. That is the real scare for local volcanologists. Btw, Herculaneum suffered first a quake in 62AD then the infamous eruption 17 years later. A cursed town.

This Herculaneum tour guide explains about the ongoing excavations to a visiting high school group. She also explained how Herculaneum was a ritzy seaside resort destination--think Carmel. Archaeology buffs may also want to visit the Oplontis villa in nearby Torre Anunziata--the wall paintings there are fantastic.

At the House of Argus: Paola Potenza from the Ministry of Culture had heard about my WC mishap (getting stuck inside then having to climb out through the window). "Bienvenuti Senor Zebec, are you OK? We understand that you exited that WC through the window into a group of arriving students. You must be so 'stanco' now, no? My associate here has kindly offered to lead you around by the arm if necessary. Mkay?"

Herculaneum worker cleans paths during morning opening hour. He would inform us that the large Villa Papiri is still closed for renos. Gotta love the irony: he uses a modern smartphone while working amid 2,000 year old ruins!

Archaeologists were using that tall ladder featured in the top right corner above (below tree). They utilized it to remove loads of rubble up to waiting vehicles. Note that the modern city of Ercolano still covers the majority of the Herculaneum site. Modern tech will no doubt aid our understanding of just what exactly is still waiting to be excavated.

The House of Neptune & Amphitrite.

Roman theatre mask decor replica. Some of the best relics are in the Naples Archaeology Museum, an absolute must-visit. It seems that 18C Bourbon diggers made off with a lot of items.

I'm a History major who has worked on one archaeological dig. Here on the right, brave Achilles renders aid to Telephus, the injured son of Hercules. Achilles does so by scraping magic rust off his own spearhead, to apply to the gut wound. The scene on the left shows fair Achilles consulting with the Delphic Oracle in Greece.

It was not crowded during morning hours at Herculaneum. Nonetheless, posted signs asked (afternoon?) visitors to 'please wait their turns to be called inside--we have too many visitors here just right now.' School groups made up the majority of visitors. Graffiti from the ages was seen on some interior walls. Who does that? Btw, seniors may ask for an 'anziana' discount here, as elsewhere.

This Herculaneum fast food joint reminded me that Pompeii has recently uncovered some more exceptional remains of eateries just like this. Each vat would've contained a different food: stews, seafood, garum, wine, grains and more.

I'm confident in stating that this fellow had his fill at such eateries.

Enslaved craftsmen worked on this marble decor. Pity poor Celur, a slave who'd earned his freedom just prior to the eruption!

The Hall of the Sacelli Augustals. In this mural, we see Hercules in Olympus with Juno and Minerva. Freedmen had once adorned this building, while maintaining their cult of worshipping the Emperor Augustus as a God. As elsewhere, today lava foam scars and cracks are present throughout.

Same building: mighty Hercules battles the Etruscan god Acheleus.

Hercules having a piss after getting stinking drunk while hunting boar.

White stone figures of both sexes were found near fountains.

We deliberately went first to the most outlying parts of the excavation. There, a peaceful atmosphere awaited.

Warped floors spoke of the incredible power unleashed during the cataclysm---Mother Nature always bats last.

House of the Cevi (deer).

The Terrace of M. Nonius Balbus has statuary of that high-profile political leader. He died years before the eruption. He'd been Octavian's buddy and also praetor of Crete. Just below that terrace are the Fornici or Barrel Arched Boathouses, the 4 rooms containing the 340 skeletons of those victims who'd once sought beach-side refuge, unawares that volcanic threats would be ongoing (see above skeletons). Their poignant remains were discovered in 1980. Were they the rich 1% or were they slaves?

Folks interested in ancient Roman history could seek out the extremely rare eyewitness account of the eruption as once told by a survivor. He was apparently a local who later went on to serve in the Roman infantry and died in battle over in Britain.

Vesuvius looms in the background... Exotic tree species are found throughout the site nowadays, in a successful effort to re-create the authentic setting and atmosphere.

The Antiquarium museum of Herculaneum is framed by the room with a white marble table. A few such tables can be found throughout the site. Numerous Herculaneum relics are considered to be better-preserved than most found in Pompeii. There are wooden bed frames, window frames, room dividers, two-story taverns and more. *Next: Ravello

tcinct

Hi Zebec,

Yours is a trip report worth waiting for! The photos capture the joy of your discoveries and adventures around the Amalfi Coast- and that comes shining through! Thank you!

zebec

This moody song by 70s Italian progressive band 'PFM' is meant to be played while you view the following fotos of Ravello. *Pro Tip: the sunrise view from sleepy Scala (and sleepier Minuta) looking down onto Ravello is world-class. We went twice.

barbrn

Zebec, you legend you!! Fabulous, every one. I have learned a lot. Going to that area (Amalfi coast) next October for the first time. You have stoked my excitement.

zebec

Great hiking trails, gardens and views---that's Ravello.

Ah those sunrises. The view looking down onto Ravello from Scala.

So mystical, so ethereal so special.

'Only a magic that a name would stain'. (P. Gabriel)

Vistas in all directions. Here, looking down onto Minori.

Sitting on the church steps. Locals or visitors?

Local kids play. The panorama from their playground was astonishing, a painter's dream.

Pretty sure that this man was the mayor. Note how he speaks using his hands.

Ravello has a certain upscale vibe throughout. You won't find any Dollarama stores there.

Local lizard.

Ravello got style.

Ravello got more style.

This place was across from Villa Maria. Those who've seen Canuck chef David Rocco and his wife in the TV series episode where they take their kids to vacation along the coast, will know that this villa was owned/operated by his older restauranteur friend.

A historic floor tile at the renown Villa Cimbrone.

In their garden, I accessed a remote outdoors workers area that seemed to be abandoned. There, staff had amassed a pile of trash that was due to be tossed out. There were old wooden doors, busted pipes and more. I removed this hand-painted little piece from that garbage collection, to take home for our own jardin. *End of part one Ravello. Part two to follow.

zebec

For the victims of Vesuvius, especially those who were not free and a long way from home.

bilboburgler

good to know you are not hanging out on street corners ;-)

zebec

Ravello part due

Lofty Ravello views continued. Here, the top north end (Lacco), which is over 1000' above the sea. I think that is maybe S. Giovanni del Toro church?

Vista after vista...

Monastario di S. Chiara with the Duomo behind. Buses 5120 and also 5010 will get you up to Ravello after a 30 minute ride. The transfer point below is called 'Bivio'. Double-check schedules.

S. Maria a Gradillo...I think.

An angel come to earth. The Tilley hat rep for Italy. Friendly gal. Let me sleep with her.

That 13C campanile tower and the Duomo denote the entry to the first of Ravello's two famed gardens: Villa Rufolo.

Villa Rufolo is the setting of a summer classical/opera festival. Travelers can almost have the place to themselves if they arrive as we did, right for opening time. Tropical terraced gardens cascade down the steep property, with pergolas framing fine views of the precipitous coastline. Fountains, towers, belvederes and romantic nooks round out the scene. Off-season, one needs to be prepared for a pared-down appearance, devoid of many floral beds. But the incredible panoramas are year-round.

Villa Rufolo's iconic umbrella pine looming over its twin little towers.

Seen on the far right is the furthest point on the ridge. Located at that southerly spot is Ravello's second garden, the equally-famed Villa Cimbrone. Mamma Agata's Cooking Class is located nearby. Ravello's seaside section 'Marmorata' is just below.

With its 6 hectares of historic parkland, Villa Cimbrone represents a deliberate attempt to marry Italian gardening styles with English ones. Its lush gardens encompass cloisters, columns, crypts, an open-vaulted and terraced tea-room, 'avenues' of hortensia and glicine (wisteria), pavilions, rich rose beds, exotica and more. In summer, the various floral scents must be special.

The statuary in the hotel/restaurant's lawn includes stone (Leda with her swan) plus bronze. Here is Flora, the goddess of flowers and also spring. Signs remind visitors that all orchids found onsite, wild or otherwise, are protected by law and that picking any is forbidden.

The locale of 'Mercury's seat' (Hermes rest) is a peaceful, remote corner well-worth seeking out. Not for nothing is a bench placed there under a shady oak. But one mom with her 20ish daughter apparently didn't get the memo. Mom invaded that spot with all the volume in the universe, LOUDLY reading text about the statue from a guidebook. Daughter was clearly embarrassed, there near Eva's Grotto and the Temple of Bacchus. Mrs Z made eyes at me then like, "Do you believe this woman's attitude?"

Twin oval pools are found not far from the old stone well. Ancient camelia and banksiana trees can also be found not far off. *Note that the hotel-restaurant shown here, was still closed mid-March

The world-famous motif 'Terrace of Infinity (aka Doorway of the Sun). This natural balcony's wide-open view of the gulf is unrivalled. You can see the far-off mountains of Cilento. A lovely statue of Ceres (goddess of harvests) is close by this famed and incomparable highlight. A spectacle in the best sense of the word.

Gore Vidal once claimed that this very view is the world's most beautiful sight, 'when the winter sky and the sea are so vividly blue that it is not possible to distinguish one from the other." Btw, does anyone know who these 2 statues are supposed to represent?

Cimbrone is a walker's paradise, with just a couple steeper stretches. Benches located right at the Terrace of Infinity allow tired visitors to take a break. Again, the location of those potential rest stops is no accident.

The colorful bench-back tiles just below a quote from some important British lord from yesteryear. He waxed romantic about the splendors of Villa Cimbrone.

Never trust anyone who does not enjoy a stroll through lovely nature.

Floral beauty.

Hand-painted ceramic art.

The view from the Galleria Nuova bus stop. jayzus.

Ravello is a classy place, a great spot to buy a meaningful gift.

Good quality local crafts are available.

I rest my case.

Did I mention Ravello's beautiful views?
*Next: the weekly farm market

zebec

March 16th: Minori market (every Thursday).

We shopped at the modest Minori market twice in two weeks. It was located on the lungomare and as with other such markets, was a mix of food plus clothing vans and such. Celebrity chef Luigi Cerri was curious about that (we were the only tourists there) and approached for a chat. Without prompt, he posed with tomatoes for a photo.

Luigi then introduced me to this man, who was the president of the Cilento region organic-produce association.

The garlic was tasty. We used it as self-caterers. My wife and I only ate out a few times. At the popular restaurant 'Giardiniello', we chanced across a fellow diner, a noted American soccer coach. He'd retired after a successful career at a major university, to spend his winters in Minori. He was quick to point out just how inexpensive long-term rentals can be in peripheral places like Maori, the workaday town just south of Minori.

Red pepper---ocho!

Artichoke: whose yellow flowers are edible and feature in winter dishes in Italia.

Zucca zucca zucca. A sort of soufflé is made from this vegetable, a dessert dish not to be missed.

Beans. There was also an intriguing pure-white variety.

Where there is pasta there will always be pomodoro.

Paulo also sells produce at his busy shop in town. Mrs Z and I shopped there too.

Some of Paulo's produce. His display spills out onto the road.

Sal de Riso is an award-winning pastry shop. Uncheap, but very good quality and unsurpassed variety.

We went numerous times. They even serve breakfast, a hit with local workers and laborers.

Their various pizzas include an all-citrus variety! Here, my fave flavor: anchovy.

Rounding out this foodic section: the above pasta-maker (Marco della Pietra & wife). One orders some of his dishes a day in advance. Also: Mini-market 'Dieci Piu', run by the friendly Saveria family. Their sandwiches were among the best. Also recommended: 'Macelleria Trophimena', and 'Macelleria de Lieto', two deli/butcheries' with much to offer. The gals at 'Punto Pane' specialize in great sandwiches. A VG restaurant literally outside our building entry: A' Ricetta. *next: an extended daytrip

bon_voyage

The ever enthralling Amalfi Coast, grazie mille, looking forward to more.

zebec

STOP PRESS
Forgot to add these 'foods to look for':
Agerola buffalo mozarella cheese 'Fior de latte' (see DFrost's photo above).
Sfogliatella pastry, misc. varieties inc. Santa Rosa style (avail. @ Pansa pastries in Amalfi) plus other types in Napoli.
San Marzano tomatoes refiascone (Tramonti origins).
*Tropean red onions and cipollas, sweeter varieties as seen on Stanley Tucci's 'hometown return' episode on CNN.
Melata honeydew honey. A rare variety.
Ricci di mare and other more obvious seafood.
Sal de Riso brand lemon marmalade--better-tasting than orange varieties.

*our probable next trip in the spring.

zebec

Loreena's song 'Marco Polo' because well...and her percussionist was a family friend.

zebec

Ways of knowing the Amalfi coast: the Senses

Sights
-tiny black Cinquecento cars.
-the dreamy view from Atrani's 'Le Arcate' restaurant, the best possible setting from which to see the Collegiata di Sta Maria Maddalena=cover of countless travel guidebooks.
-unusual bespoke mini-trains designed to assist with grape harvests on the steep steep slopes.
-a Minori sunrise as seen from any high terrace=scenic magic.
-piggy-backed homes and outlier buildings occupying some very unlikely locales.
-'Rainbow Corner', a stretch of stone wall where paint-scrape streaks were left by vehicles hugging the serpentine road of 1,000 bends, vertical cliffs and deep gorges (see 'tight traffic').
-festive fireworks on holiday nights.
-Norman towers sprinkled here and there down by the waterside (some have become restaurants).

Sounds
-ever-crashing waves, with seagull songs.
-bus horns with cop whistle accompaniment, a constant soundscape along the coast.
-church bell peals, including the carillon effect.
-mandolin, violin plus zampagnori bagpipes.
-pet canaries singing out and adding atmospheres to otherwise grim alleyways.

Smells
-sunrise woodsmoke as you stumbl stroll coffee-in-hand through any small town.
-slender and fragrant beeswax candles burning in a any church.
-*can you please add to this?

Touches
-the feel of sand beneath your feet at any beach (*families and swimmers: try Maori for the biggest and sandiest OR Marina di Erchie's remote beach 700 m down from the closest bus stop).
-the feel of fur as you stroke that friendly gato; wherever there are fish there will be plentiful cats!
-*again, might you have any to add to this?

Tastes (OMG!!!)
-spremunti aranco OJ as made fresh at Mario Arzano's Torre home; he and his wife sometimes have folks over for modest get-togethers; the citrus is literally picked fresh from their grove.
-Sal de Riso's pear-ricotta pastry; diabetes on a plate.
-mandorla frutti.
-any sandwich by any of the excellent delis as mentioned in the above foodic listings.
-limoncello drink if that's yer thing (too sweet for us).
-Negroni drinks if thats yer thing (too strong for us).

*Would love to hear your picks for the above categories here!
**Next: that belated daytrip.

KarenWoo

Love love love all your photos - the ceramics, the food, the beautiful vistas! Awesome! Your report is very timely. We haven't been to Italy since the 1970's YIKES!!! We hope to return for a month or so in a few years. Definitely want to visit the Amalfi Coast. How many nights/weeks were you on the AC? Did you base all of your time in Minori? How did you get around? Rental car? Trains? Buses? How was the weather in March?