Amalfi Coast Questions
#23
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Zebec and Yorkshire.
This time I have but one dinner in Cetara. I loved SanPietro and Acquapazza and Al Convento in the past.
i’ve not been in years. Which of those gets the bote from you??? There is a newer place I noticed but know nothing about.
One of these days I want to spend a week or two in Cetara. Could not find a place this time so ate in Vietri. One night only.
This time I have but one dinner in Cetara. I loved SanPietro and Acquapazza and Al Convento in the past.
i’ve not been in years. Which of those gets the bote from you??? There is a newer place I noticed but know nothing about.
One of these days I want to spend a week or two in Cetara. Could not find a place this time so ate in Vietri. One night only.
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Aug 23rd, 2023 at 07:55 AM.
#24
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That's a tough one Eks! I ate at all three (only because Aquapazza was closed, but San Pietro was fine, just not knock our socks off like Aquapazza). Al Convento is the type pf place I love, classic but with the times (they had a great collection of birra artiginale for my beer loving husband), yet Aquapazza just had a buzz -- plus I am curious if it still does! It has been several years since my trip, so hopefully you will get some recent reports.
I hope to be back in Italy next year, but your Spain reports might divert me, along with our fantastic last trip to Extremadura.
I hope to be back in Italy next year, but your Spain reports might divert me, along with our fantastic last trip to Extremadura.
#25
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Eks,
We've only eaten at Acquapazza ('crazy water', so-named for old fisherman's lunch pails boiling seawater with fish) despite nearly having gone into those other two. Locals basically told us that one can't go wrong in Cetara--so many of its restaurants get good reviews from both locals plus tourists. Bourdain was one of many fans of the village.
That being said, we had a pair of experiences at Acquapazza that convinced us that owner Gennaro is a special guy, the kind that this planet needs more of. Firstly, he kindly greeted an African refugee tweener girl who was hawking some flowers table to table. His conversation with her was one of friendship and guidance, not at all the annoyed restauranteur shooing away the unwanted irritation. I was impressed with his humanity then, as he seemed to be advising her on the best places to sell her fragrant wares.
Then just before we departed after our meal, he took me into his side-workshop where he produced coltura di alici fish sauce. Without any prompt from ourselves, Gennaro gave us a free gift of his sauce, a small eyedropper jar (it is great on eggs, rice, taters and veggies).
The positivity that Gennaro displayed throughout our entire visit was such that even a cynical Positano guide who'd been hanging around there, eventually let down his smug tirade (endless insults of Rick Steves: "He's an arrogant American who expects payoffs for his guidebook listings!') and joined the rest of us in being easy to be around. He actually apologized for his previous attitude!
I rest my case.
A vero fishing village not yet overrun with commercial tourism---our kinda place.
I am done. the fun
We've only eaten at Acquapazza ('crazy water', so-named for old fisherman's lunch pails boiling seawater with fish) despite nearly having gone into those other two. Locals basically told us that one can't go wrong in Cetara--so many of its restaurants get good reviews from both locals plus tourists. Bourdain was one of many fans of the village.
That being said, we had a pair of experiences at Acquapazza that convinced us that owner Gennaro is a special guy, the kind that this planet needs more of. Firstly, he kindly greeted an African refugee tweener girl who was hawking some flowers table to table. His conversation with her was one of friendship and guidance, not at all the annoyed restauranteur shooing away the unwanted irritation. I was impressed with his humanity then, as he seemed to be advising her on the best places to sell her fragrant wares.
Then just before we departed after our meal, he took me into his side-workshop where he produced coltura di alici fish sauce. Without any prompt from ourselves, Gennaro gave us a free gift of his sauce, a small eyedropper jar (it is great on eggs, rice, taters and veggies).
The positivity that Gennaro displayed throughout our entire visit was such that even a cynical Positano guide who'd been hanging around there, eventually let down his smug tirade (endless insults of Rick Steves: "He's an arrogant American who expects payoffs for his guidebook listings!') and joined the rest of us in being easy to be around. He actually apologized for his previous attitude!
I rest my case.
A vero fishing village not yet overrun with commercial tourism---our kinda place.
I am done. the fun
#26
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Great to hear this!! I have booked dinner there but was put off by reviews on a certain website. I loved it last time and bought their colatura then and a few years later, at Roscioli in Rome.
Take care. It evaporates quickly and I now store in the frig. Will ask one of the Gennaros about this.
I am using phone as laptop is kaput. Would live links on apts to rent in Cetara for future. From Vietri we drive to Maratea for 5 nights before heading to Tursi and Senise.
Y. Il Glicine looks lovely. Will check further for future once I get laptop back and can SEE. Thank you!!
Take care. It evaporates quickly and I now store in the frig. Will ask one of the Gennaros about this.
I am using phone as laptop is kaput. Would live links on apts to rent in Cetara for future. From Vietri we drive to Maratea for 5 nights before heading to Tursi and Senise.
Y. Il Glicine looks lovely. Will check further for future once I get laptop back and can SEE. Thank you!!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Aug 23rd, 2023 at 06:33 PM.
#27
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Hi All -
As I continue to research, I wanted to see if anyone has any idea whether or not it is recommended (or required) to get advanced tickets to the Paestum archeological park? I think I found the "official" website, but it has not been updated since 2021 with Covid-related information and tickets. I perhaps might have been on the wrong site, so if there is a official ticket website, please advise.
Thanks!
As I continue to research, I wanted to see if anyone has any idea whether or not it is recommended (or required) to get advanced tickets to the Paestum archeological park? I think I found the "official" website, but it has not been updated since 2021 with Covid-related information and tickets. I perhaps might have been on the wrong site, so if there is a official ticket website, please advise.
Thanks!
#28
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Paestum museum is currently closed for renovation--the famous diver is on display in a separate building, and of course you are free to visit the temples. This may change before your trip of course. I don't think you would need advance tickets.
#29
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Thanks, yorkshire. I hope that the museum might be operational by the time I head that way. Am getting a bit ahead of myself, I think.
#30
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TN, have you seen the new 'Equalizer 3' movie? It was filmed by director Fuqua, who chose to film Denzel and co. in Atrani, Amalfi, Minori and Positano. He poses those towns as a quasi-fictitious conglomerate 'Altomonte'.
The irony is that there is an actual Altomonte not too far off, but further inland.
I am done. The end.
The irony is that there is an actual Altomonte not too far off, but further inland.
I am done. The end.
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