Travel_Nerd

I am considering traveling to Amalfi Coast in May/June 2024 and I've gots questions! This will be my first time traveling to this area.

Planning Background: I'm considering spending 6-7 nights in this area. I will be solo and using public transport.

I do not (yet) know where I am coming from (potentially Bari via Corfu, but that might change) but will be planning on flying home (SFO) from Naples.

I'd probably spend the final night in Naples - and also so I can see the Archeological Museum there. But that is really the only thing I *really* "must see" in Naples, other than pizza! I know this city has other things to see, and open to them, but for now, the Archeological Museum is the only thing I can see myself regretting missing.

Otherwise, I'd like to see Pompeii and Herculaneum, and, if possible, Paestum, in addition to exploring some of the AC towns, particularly Sorrento and Positano, perhaps Amalfi itself.

Base: Where would it be best to use as a "base?" From what I've read, I can do Pompeii and Herculaneum from either Naples or Sorrento. Sorrento *seems* as if it might be the better choice overall as a base. Does heading to Paestum make this a wrinkle, too? Thoughts?

However, I need to defer to those thay have been there. What would be the better overall "base?" Should I break up my time a bit, say 4-5 nights in Sorrento and 2-3 in Naples - which would be my base for Pompeii/Herculaneum. Or, spend 5-6 nights in Sorrento with just that final night (or two) in Naples?

Or is there another option I should consider?

Pompeii & Herculaneum Planning Could I do Pompeii (morning) and Herculaneum (afternoon) in one day? I know it will be a busy one, but looks like it might be possible via the Circumvesuvia. I may hire a guide for Pompeii itself - as a solo traveler, this is sometimes difficult so if there are any recs for guides that might accept a solo traveler, I'd appreciate it.

Amalfi Brainstorm: Lastly, to those that have traveled in this area, what were your favorite Amalfi towns and what did you like about them? Post pictures if you have them! Every town seems so wonderful, I'm trying to hone in on where I want to spend my time. Note: And I know your responses may be reflective of your impressions and interests, please don't cater to what might be mine - this is not me asking "what should I see?" But rather what you all enjoyed the most.

Thanks all!

yorkshire

Paestum would be a long slog from Sorrento, I would not recommend it, but I do recommend Paestum as it is amazing (watch the cheesy old movie Clash of the Titans--I just realized recently that several scenes were filmed at the temples). It would be easier from Naples as it would be a direct train, but still a long day. But, if you choose one of the mainland-end Amalfi Coast towns (Minori/Maiori to Salerno), you could visit Paestum from there (and actually Pompeii too, it just requires slightly more transit and a 15 minute walk from the Trenitalia station in Pompei). I stayed in Cetara and loved it, but If I were traveling solo, I would lean toward Amalfi and just adjacent (15 minute walk) Atrani. That is just because Cetara is so small, you might want to be somewhere slightly more bustling.
I spent a whole day at Pompeii, so it is hard for me to imagine combining it with Herculaneum, but it is theoretically possible if you start early (and weather is not so scorching in May, so you won't have that to deal with). I think the happy balance might be to see everything from the Amalfi Coast, then stop at Herculaneum en route to Naples since it takes less time, but you'll have to start early and make sure you will be in Naples in time to see the archeological museum. I loved Hotel Piazza Bellini--you can walk to the museum from there, and you can walk to the old town for pizza that night, and they will schedule your taxi to the airport for you.
Sorry for those random thoughts, happy to clarify anything. If you want the Amalfi Coast, stay ON the coast--you don't want to be coming over from Sorrento every day.

Travel_Nerd

Thanks Yorkshire, I appreciate this feedback. And boy, it has been a LONG time since I suffered through "Clash of Titans,: but maybe it's worth it again!

yorkshire

LOL--it is horrible! But we happened upon it recently and were amazed at the access they had to the temples. The Paestum museum is quite good also.

geetika

We spent 4 days in Atrani last year, followed by another 4 in Naples. Atrani was a perfect little haven, calm and quiet, it is supposedly the smallest commune in Italy. A short 7-8 minutes walk to Amalfi, with buses and ferries to take you around.

We took the bus up to Ravello for a day trip, another day the bus to Positano and ferry back. We also hiked a stretch of the Path of Lemons from Minori, much easier on my knees than the Path of the Gods.

At the end of four days our Airbnb host arranged for a taxi to take us to Naples, the same driver who had picked us up on arrival at Naples airport.

We took the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii one morning, otherwise no day trips as there’s plenty to see in Naples. The Archeological Museum of course, I also highly recommend the San Severo chapel with the stunning Veiled Christ or Cristo Velato.

I strongly suggest breaking up your stay in two locations, the AC first and then Naples. My preference would be to stay on the actual AC instead of Salerno or Sorrento. And do take the ferry for drop dead gorgeous views from the water.

Leely2

I was just about to type what geetika suggests: 4 days Atrani or Amalfi, 4 days Naples. (Last time I stayed on the AC we based in Ravello, but our focus was hiking--doesn't sound like that's an interest of yours.)

ekscrunchy

Yorkshire did you stay at the Cetus in Cetara?
did you dine in Cetara?
i love the town but have not been in many years. Hope to have dinner there our first night. Staying in Vietri as Cetus was booked.

AJPeabody

A decade ago on our trip to Italy (actually just Rome and Sorrento) we did a one day Pompeii plus Herculaneum self guided tour. Pompeii took the morning and a bit of early afternoon, then we took the train to Herculaneum which takes much less time to tour. If you get to Pompeii early it is quite doable. We had lunch at one of the stands just outside the entrance to Pompeii, which was tasty and saved time. One complication may be that further excavations in the last 10 years may have added more stuff to see. We were there in May, so the heat was not a problem. I did a trip report if you want to click my name for the link.

FTOttawa

If the trains cooperate with you and you are not overly ambitious about what you see at Pompeii, you could tour Herculaneum on the same day, leaving from Naples. NB the official guides at Pompeii are great. They are at the gate and will depart as soon as they have a decent number of participants (8? 10? Memory fades).

Paestum was an easy day trip from Amalfi: ferry to Salerno then train.

Coming from Bari you would probably end up travelling via Naples anyway. It might be possible to reach Amalfi from Bari in a long day’s journey by train or bus + ferry or bus.

+1 for Piazza Bellini and +1 for staying on the coast. I liked what I saw of Atrani but was perfectly happy in Amalfi itself. Maiori and Minori have their fans, Positano is expensive and v.e.r.y vertical.

zebec

Hi OP TN,
I'm currently working on our March Amalfi coast TR. It'll comprise of 2 parts, a) Ischia isle and b) the rest of the actual coast---I'll post that latter part first some day.

Anyway, our visit is still fresh in our minds. You ask what we enjoyed the most...

-basing in Minori; that allowed a less-hectic more authentic real Italian village experience. Its a great food experience: home-made pasta, outstanding sandwiches plus Sal de Riso. Got a great rental there to recco, one with that rare thing among mid-range rentals along the coast: a lift!! Similarly got a great property manager/fixer to recco there as well. Added value guaranteed. On FB, that manager Mario Arzano has his own site: Info@Take AmalfiCoast.com Those who've walked the Path of the Lemons (that name) have gone right past Mario's home in Torre hamlet.
-Cetara: as authentic a working fishing village as can be found in the area. Got a must-do restaurant recco there, but frankly the village has a number of others too.
-Scala: the sunrise view from Scala down onto Ravello is world-class. We went twice. Quiet place, the polar opposite of say, Amalfi, Positano or Capri.

-Ischia, especially the 'Ponte' neighbourhood---excellent on many levels. Got a splurge rental recco there, one with the best view of that Castello imaginable. I pity the fool that fails to take the 15 minute ferry from Ischia over to Procida.
-lunch in Atrani at 'Le Arcate' will provide a 2-fer: good food at reasonable price point plus the world-class postcard view of that monastery seen on countless guidebook covers.
-Herculaneum: this smaller and quieter cousin of Pompeii is a worthy visit; some may've read here earlier about my getting stuck upon arrival in the entry WC! I had to finally exit out through the window, straight into a classful of arriving students. Classic.

-each of the noted villages along the coast has something to offer.
Hope that you end up with a base that suits you.
I am done. the costa

bon_voyage

Travel_Nerd, you will love this trip.
In 2015 I split my time among Naples, Sorrento, Amalfi, and Paestum, Solo in Italia May 2015: Sorrento, Amalfi, Paestum, Naples, Rome, photos at post 27. I had visited Pompeii on a day trip from Rome in 1969; the memory of the frescoes in the Villa of the Mysteries has stood the test of time but I had also seen them on slides in an archeology course my freshman year in college which undoubtedly helped fix them in memory.
If I had to choose just two stops, they would be Naples and Amalfi, with day trips to Positano, Ravello, and Paestum. While I also enjoyed seeing Herculaneum, I’m more drawn to sacred sites and would choose Paestum and its museum over either Pompeii and Herculaneum, especially if I were planning to visit the museum in Naples (which would be a don’t miss).

cafegoddess

We stayed in Praiano and was very happy we did. We were going to stay in Positano but changed our minds because of all the stairs. Plus Praiano has our favorite restaurant and a lot quieter than Amalfi and Positano. We had a car but took the bus between towns. Those bus drivers are the best!

We were there in the middle of May and it was very hot already. I recommend splurging on a private boat ride along the coast. It is worth every penny. I love the Amalfi coast and wished we stayed longer than two weeks.



View of Positano from our balcony.

Sassafrass

Cafegoddess, where did you stay in Praiano and what is your favorite restaurant there? Thanks.

Travel_Nerd

Thank you all SO very much. I really appreciate this feedback. I will break up this portion of my trip, at least 4 days on the coast and 3-4 in Naples - thank you all so much! I still want to see Sorrento. I do not want to overcomplicate my life, but could I potentially stop there on the way from the Coast to Naples? It looks like there are luggage storage options that might make this possible.

Leely2 Hiking is not necessarily a goal but is a "consideration." I think I am a bit traumatized by many, many over-planned hiking trips by my Dad and brother, but am always open for a nice walk. Though, I am having additional ptsd moment from "hiking" the Ladder in Kotor, Montenegro last year, too! I am finding Ravello to be kind of within my budget, so this may end up being a possibility in the end, thank you.

FTOttawa It does seem that I may have to make some very hard decisions/cuts to my potential plan and the trip from Bari may just in fact be "out" and perhaps freeing up that day. But who knows what I will come up with in the end.

zebec Thank you for sharing your thoughts on your recent trip. I look forward to reading your trip report, too.

cafegoddess That is a gorgeous shot, thank you for sharing it!

In researching this trip, I am already finding that some of the Amalfi areas are "pricing" themselves out accommodations-wise. Definitely not booking yet and cognizant that many accommodations have not "released" their schedules for May/June 2024 yet, but I can tell you, Amalfi, Atrani and Positano are not within my budget, unfortunately. Any thoughts on Minori? Seems to be also well-connected by ferry in this region.

Leely2

There is a b&b, La Scogliera https://www.lascoglierarooms.it/ in Atrani that some folks here have recommended. Reasonably priced, I recall, as I considered visiting Atrani this past May. In Ravello we stayed at Hotel Parsifal, which for Ravello in June was reasonable. They had books on walks beyond the Path of the Gods at the front desk which were helpful.

For what it's worth, I spent a night in Bari the end of May this year and enjoyed it quite a bit. I only had one day to tour, but Bari itself is probably worth at least a couple days. (Started this trip with almost a week in Naples, departed from Bari.)


From the little garden/terrace we had at our room at Hotel Parsifal


Concert in Ravello


On the way back up to Ravello


Bari Vecchia


Bari Vecchia


Bari

zebec

Cafe Goddess: you and I seem to be on the same page. Not only did we each recently foto the exact same shady stairway on Santorini, but your above overview of Positano is the exact same image that I've been developing/rendering this past hour!!
Mrs Z and I were then at the Sponda bus stop by your hotel. I had commented to her, "Watch for the Insta crowd to soon appear right here." Not 30 seconds later, a trio of young women came from nowhere to do the whole trout pout/hands on hip series of poses.

TN, you imply that Ravello might be in your plans as a base. Its a wonderful place, with incredible gardens, hikes and views. But it has also long been known as an upscale destination. My wife compared it to Carmel.

For your benefit, I've dredged our pre-trip 'list of lodging possibilities' below.
Furore: Agriturismo Sant'Alfonso.
Praiano/Vettica Maggiore: Smeraldo hotel
Maori town: perhaps the least expensive location despite its considerable size?

*Minori-- 'Le Zinefra' was our apartment rental in a former rectory; has a cute antique lift then a dozen final steps; excellent shoulder season rates; truly 360 views; proximity to groceries, beach, buses both ways, Path of the Lemons; restaurants (Sal de Riso is a mere 2 mins way)--VG value throughout (covid cancelled our original visit, when we'd reserved the splurge Villa Principessa; so glad that we instead experienced a more down-to-earth residential lodging in the end).
Le Zinefra's property manager is the wonderful aforementioned Mario Arzano (phone 0039 392 474 0407). He will take care of all your logistical needs inc. reliable driver Patrizio Amato. Note that Mario also manages a dozen additional properties AND as well, offers a couple apartments in his own Torre home.

PS Sal de Riso's famed pastry shop is much more than just that. It is a full-on restaurant with a VG menu. There is also a gelato corner within his eatery. His bro Alesandro has opened a nearly-identical cafe on the other side of that 'Le Zinefra' apartment, with mostly outdoors seating.

I am done. the costa continued

yorkshire

Hi eks,
I stayed somewhat above Cetara at a b&b called Il Glicine--it would not work for you, size or amenity wise (I have followed your travels over the years, garnering many great tips), but Travel_Nerd should check it out--the prices are fantastic. We went for Aquapazza but also enjoyed Al Convento.
https://www.ilglicinebb.it/tariffe.html
Caveat: It is about a 20 minute walk from the village, uphill--but you get a sea view as a result and the owner was an absolute gem. He picked us up from the bus stop in Salerno at no charge, I believe he dropped us off there as well (This was before Cetara had ferry service), and one night we ran into him at Aquapazza and he gave us a ride home. We did not mid the walk at all, because after an Italian dinner I like a good walk. The walk was well lit and I would not be worried about doing it alone, but of course you must weigh your comfort zone. The b&b's breakfast was not up to par, but the roof deck made up for it.
There are some other b&bs on that hillside, so I would definitely check it out. But since you are solo, Minori or Maiori might work out better if you have any qualms about the walk home at night.

Travel_Nerd

zebec and yorkshire thank you very much for sharing your accommodation notes with me.

I am leaning more and more to Minori. I can't recall who suggested "Path of the Lemons," was it worth the time and views? I will not be packing full scale hiking boots (so "Path of the Gods"is definitely OUT) but would Lemons be okay with normal walking shoes/trainers?

Yorkshire, I also noticed that "Clash of the Titans" is available right now on one of my streaming services! I just might have to grab a couple of glasses of wine (this might require the bottle! &#129315 and watch it over the weekend.

yorkshire

I did not do the path of the gods but greatly enjoyed path of the lemons, and if you are going to do one hike, that would be the one I would choose. (There are some out of Amalfi that are round trip that are nice as well). Regular trainers will be fine.
Have your FF button ready for that film, lol, but it is a fun preview of Paestum!

cafegoddess

Sassafrass we stayed at a B&B called Pezz. No breakfast included but they have parking. I picked this place because it was right across the entrance of the Path of the Gods, unfortunately we ended up not do doing the hike. We have been hiking for two months and just got so tired by the time we reached the Amalfi coast. We just took long walks in Praiano,Amalfi/Atrani and Positano. Our reward was eating at Kasai. This was my favorite restaurant on this trip. The food was simple delicious!

zebec lol, we seem to have the same taste in traveling.



Kasai, this was my husband’s appetizer but it was enough for two

I love fish and chip! This dish was done perfectly.

This pasta was so good, I was wishing we didn’t share this plate. I could have eaten another bowl

Potato soufflé with an egg and truffles. I am still dreaming about this dish!

Artichoke, another winner

The many stairs of the Amalfi Coast.

Beautiful!

Most cars on the Amalfi Coast has these markings.

I was so excited when I finally saw this church…

Another great restaurant, this one in Altrani.