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A Very Berber Birthday! Trip report and travel tales, Spain, Morocco & Lisbon

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A Very Berber Birthday! Trip report and travel tales, Spain, Morocco & Lisbon

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Old Feb 20th, 2007 | 09:22 AM
  #101  
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Thanks LoveItaly and Lusiah for your nice remarks

Day 8 Valencia

If I'm to be honest Valencia was never really on my radar to visit. I had been to a bunch of places in Spain, but for some reason never thought to go to Valencia. What got us there was totally girlie. In September Robin and I had gone to Amsterdam and bought fantastic boots by Sendra. Beautiful as they are comfortable. Not cheap though. We looked on line and here in the US but could only find their western line which is what they are known for.However, they make really nice fashion boots as well, harder to find.

With some research we found thay are made in Alicante and there were only 3 actual solely Sendra boot shops in Spain. One in Alicante, 2 in Valencia. Laugh if you must, but that is how we decided on Valencia. We wanted to go to the Sendra boot outlet. Although that's what got us to Valencia, it is the amazing city that will make me return.

First day in Valencia did not start that well. I awoke with the worst ear ache. Maybe it was from the flying the day before. I was congested and in a terrible mood. We had no more tylenol, advil, or motrin, I had used it all over the past 7 days. I felt bad complaining to Robin, but did it anyway. Afterall, she is insulin dependent and never, ever complains. She might get a bit bitchy when her sugar is low and has to eat, but that's expected. Great thing about mine and Robins friendship is we can snap at each other on occasion and neither one of us takes it personally, 5 minutes later bygones.

Anyway after breakfast we stop at the front desk to make massage appointments. The Vincci Lys has a spa downstairs. For about 45 US an hour massage. That's a deal compared to New York. We had blown off the spa in Marrakech so we book for 8 pm. Next stop to find a pharmacy.

Our hotel is located in a pedestrian mall area directly behind the bull ring and train station. We were very happy with this location. Around the corner is a pharmacy. Great thing is, you walk in, point to what hurts, say ouch and they give you something. I picked up some Nurofen ( like advil). I would pop 2 of these every 4-6 hours for the next week. Hey, they work.

Again, no plan, but we did want to see the sights. So, we got a map, circled a bunch of stuff and started out. First stop the bull ring. The bull ring is located right next to the train staion which is an impressive building itself. It was a gorgeous day with the bluest skies. We stroll around the perimeter of the bull ring snapping photos and then on to the Toro museum.

Kind of hard to find, located on a covered street to the side of the ring. It was closed. O.K. no toro museum for us.

Now the old town part of Valencia is really easy to navigate-well on the second day. We walked in alot of circles on the first. We walked up to City Hall square. Really beautiful gothic architecture with wide streets and and a large round fountain. Flower vendors line the park in the square. We sat on a bench for a while just looking around us and remarking what a beautiful city this was.

From there we head over to Saint Catherines church. It's church tower is considered one of the most beautiful of gothic style. Thru the small streets around St. Cat's we walk and stumble upon a costume shop( the pic of ghost in window). I bought a really cool cat mask, Why? Because I didn't need it. LOL

Over to Plaza Redonda-which although famous for some reason we found very unimpressive. Is this it? The Plaza Redonda? I guess on Sundays they have a market there. From there we take a short walk to the Central Market.

The Central Market is a gorgeous building. Built in the early 1900's said to be one of the best of Spanish Modernism. The market has 1300 stalls and Robin and I made the mistake of entering in the side of the fish market. Way too smelly for us, we quickly walked out. We got our pictures from the outside. Good enough!

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...4d43g&Ux=1

More sightseeing in Valencia to come. trying to sort the pix to go with the text
laartista is offline  
Old Feb 20th, 2007 | 02:17 PM
  #102  
 
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More fun. I bet you two have a good time no matter where you go or what happens.

<<Around the corner is a pharmacy. Great thing is, you walk in, point to what hurts, say ouch and they give you something.>>
In France it would probably be a suppository -- regardless of what you point to.

Looking forward to more.
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Old Feb 20th, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #103  
 
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<<Around the corner is a pharmacy. Great thing is, you walk in, point to what hurts, say ouch and they give you something.>>
In France it would probably be a suppository -- regardless of what you point to.

What a stupid comment.
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Old Feb 20th, 2007 | 03:35 PM
  #104  
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Pvoy- Don't know which part you're referring as being stupid, but pointing and saying ouch works very well when you don't know how to say I have an ear ache in Spanish or Catalan. Have you never had to use travel charades? Anywhere?
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Old Feb 20th, 2007 | 03:55 PM
  #105  
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laartista, I don't think pvoy is talking about your comment. I think it is a case of humor being the first victim of a foreign language

Yes, pointing at body parts works. I broke one of my not-so-wise wisdom teeth while in EU 12 years back, showed the village dentist where it hurt by pointing at it and making sounds like "ow! Ow!! OW!!!", and since, he neither used a sledge hammer nor took the wrong teeth out, I think he knew what I meant!

Nice report. Now you two have to go to an even more remote place to top this trip.

Did you get any ideas for tiles that you could use at work?
 
Old Feb 20th, 2007 | 04:51 PM
  #106  
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Yep, probably right about the remark Cshoes. I primarily work in glass so no tiles, but lots of ideas for this years line. Design and color pallettes will for sure have a Moroccan influence. Going back in May- so I'm psyched. This time I think to Essaouria. Next Big Big Trip, definitely someplace exotic haven't decided where yet.

Continuing our tour of Valencia we head over to Queens Square and the Valencia Cathedral. This a lovely square and the weather was beautiful so lots of people sitting outside for food and drink.

The cathedral was built on the remains of an Arabic mosque which itself was built on the remains of an old Roman temple. We have a long look inside, it is a stunning building with mixed architecture, gothic, baroque etc. In one of the chambers in the catherdral is a chalice encased in glass. It is said to be the holy grail. The actual one. WOW, in Valencia, the holy grail. We also walk thru the attached museum.

Snack time, and what better snack to have while in Valencia than churros and hot chocolate. We stop at a cafe on Queens Square to map our next move and we indulge, (well I indulge, Robin just had a taste-has to stay away from the sweets) in the local treat. Now this is no ordinary hot chocolate. This is a cup of sin and I felt like I might have to go right back into that cathedral for confession afterwards. Called hot chocolate it is really melted chocolate ,so thick you can rest your spoon on top. Really, has to be eaten with a spoon or dunk the churros right in it. I tried both ways and it was DELICIOUS!

Next we make our way over to Torres de Quart. I'm sure these towers are usually very nice , however covered with some scaffolding, and the construction on the adjacent street did not make for a good photo op. Although sunny it was getting a bit nippy out, but the troopers we are we forged on.Next stop Jose' Benlliure Museum.

We walked up Gulliem to the outer street that follows the park that cuts thru the city. Being an artist myself I was very excited to see this museum of his home. It was about 3:00 when we arrive. Dang it! Closed for siesta to re-open at 4:30. I was pretty bummed about this and will have to return to Valencia to see it because we never did make it back over there. We did however make it over to the Serranos Towers. Built originally in the 1400's I think ,and used as a noblemens prison for a while, they are two identical polygonal structures. Quite imposing, really cool. There is a small bar/cafe on the square in front of them and we pop in for a cafe and to warm up.

After our coffee we take a stroll across the bridge to the other side of the park. We head for the Museo Belle Arts. I originally thought this was the ceramics museum, but when we arrived it wasn't. Went in anyway. Glad we did. It's a lovely small museum
with a really nice atrium type space.

We cross back over the park, this time across Trinidad bridge and make our way to the El Carmen area. We wanted to scope out a few places for that night and had heard from someone it was a good place to go. A stroll around those streets and then to the Virgin Square.

The Virgin Square is very pretty. Here is where you find the Generalist Palace- Cathedral and Basillica and the Turia Fountain. This is also where on Thursdays, every Thursday in fact for the last 1000 or so years (hey it was Thursday, we missed it!) there is a farmers tribunal over water usage-or something of that sort. Anyway, the architecture is again beautiful and we hang out there for a while until we decide we are super hungry, end up back on Queens Square and at some restaurant. I wish I remembered the name, I don't. What I DO remember is the yummy paella we had.

A note- I thought the graffiti in Valencia was very cool, the first few pix are of that.

Also wish I could do longer installments but they are from memory and I stop to call Robin and ask what she's got in her brain.

Next up- finishing Valencia day 1

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...h9i2r&Ux=1

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Old Feb 20th, 2007 | 05:43 PM
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Please tell me you made it to the boot store and you have photos.
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Old Feb 20th, 2007 | 09:56 PM
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....and you've not filled us in on your earache and how it's doing now! What did the dr. say?

By the way, we're leaving for Morocco in a week (for 16 days), and will be in Essaouira for 2 of those days. Anything you want me to check out and report back on? I'd love to be able to return the tremendous favor you've done with your incredible report!

LisaG
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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 02:41 AM
  #109  
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Feel free to call me Comfy specially if I can call you "la" Just kidding. Still getting used to having a name that is not my name!

Consider posting couple pictures of your glass work. Also, you know if deserts and forts interest you, consider western parts of India with similar scenary and a large number of elegant forts built during the middle ages that have a moorish/islamic influence. Just note that Indian camels have only one hump unlike the African ones, and thus even harder to sit on!
 
Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 06:25 AM
  #110  
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Kristina-yep made it to the boot store on day2 more on that later

Lisa-Even though I just came back I'm jealous-Have an awesome time in an unbelievable country and please do post about Essaouria

Comfy-LOL-you are funny, maybe when I'm finished with this marathon report I'll post some art pix. Try going to a GTG where people only know you by your screen name- weird. But those GTG are fun, only been to 1 so far.You know I think my camel only had 1 hump. And India is a place I've definitely been thinking about, I want to see the pink city.
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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 06:49 AM
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Still enjoying your fab report!

Dh and I will be in Mkesh in May. We are doing a whirlwind trip and going to Spain, Mkesh and Paris.

Need your advice. We're not sure if we should just spend 3-4 days in Mkesh and not do the camel trekk. Or should we really do it? Not sure how exhausting it is, I guess is my concern. Also how hot it would be in May. What do you think?
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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 07:05 AM
  #112  
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Hard to say Belle, is 3-4 days all you have in Morocco? The camel trek is at least 3 days there and back plus 1 night in the desert which would leave you with just 1 day in M-kech. We had 2 full days in M-kech. One we spent soley shopping.The other was a Friday and alot was closed for prayer. We missed alot of the sights, which I was bummed about. So depends really where your interests lie. It is an exhausting trip to the desert in my opinion. I don't know if that helps at all.
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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 07:11 AM
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Valencia looks like it was really cool -- it's definitely on my radar now. I've been to Madrid (twice) and Barcelona. Loved the Churros in Madrid! And Mahou beer...and tempranillo...

Hey, we should try to do a GTG in NYC of fans of your travel tales!
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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 07:24 AM
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No we were thinking of doing 5 days if we do the trek, but we were thinking of doing 3-4 in Mkesh, but only if we didn't do the trek. It's hard. I'm leaning more towards spending time in Mkesh, just because it sounds like a lot of fun. Maybe leave the desert for a longer trip.....
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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 07:53 AM
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Belle- There is alot to see in M-kech but the whole 4 days may be alot there, you can take a day trip to Essaouria, I hear alot of people do that. That's where we are heading next.

We had our paella at around 4:30 and quickly headed out to find the ceramics museum. I love ceramics and pottery. A short walk brings us there.

We were not aware that the ceramics museum is housed in the Marquis of Dos Aguas' Palace, so we felt like we got a bonus. This building is an unbelievable example of Baroque. The ceramics museum has a great collection of Valencian and other Catalan ceramics and the palace rooms are something to see.

After the palace we felt we had seen enough sights for the day but it was only about 6:00. Time for a bit of retail therapy. You would think after all the shopping we had done in Morocco we would be shopped out. Nuh Huh. REBAJAS was still going on and there were bargains to be had like the fantastic distressed white motorcycle boots I got for 115E reduced from 350E. Never was a fan of white boots but these were super cool and I had to have them. Plus being a size 5 1/2 my options are not many for buying shoes overseas, so I pounced on these. I also got this wood sculpture of an african woman that now sits in my window sill-love it!

We were not far at this time from our hotel, but a few wrong turns and we end up walking the wrong way down Calle de Colon (stopping at each of the 58 Zara stores on the way) and end up by the Sea Doorway. It's 7:30, our massage is in 1/2 hour, TAXI!!!!

We jump in and the taxi takes us to where we had just been, again idiots we are. Back at the hotel we have just enough time to drop off our stuff and run downstairs to the spa.

Located in the basement level of Vincci Lys is a tiny, and I mean tiny spa. We run in and say we are here for our massage. The girl just looks at us. She asks where our robes are. What robes? The robes in your room. Did we miss the robes we were just up there. I ask Robin, " Did you see any robes?", she replies, "Nope, no robes in our room. The girl insists they are on the bed with our flip flops. " Flip Flops?" No there were definitly no flip flops in our room. Again she insists her colleague left them there and we should go back upstairs and come back down in our robe and flip flops. Rolling our eyes at each other robin and I say FINE.

Back in the elevator and back to the room. We open the door and on the bed tied in a bow are 2 fluffy robes AND flip flops. I ask, "were those there 10 minutes ago", Robin says, "NO, those were definitly not here". Laughing we change into the robes and flip flops and head back to the elevator. Let me say one more time IDIOTS WE ARE!

Waiting for the elevator we joked that a cut guy will probably be in there and we will be in our robes and totally embarrassed. The door opens, no guy, PHEW. We are on 3 down 1 floor at 2 the door opens and wouldn't you know, Super hot Spanish guy. Think about what he must of thought, door opens and 2 chicks in white robes are standing in there. We say in unison OLA. He just laughs and asks where are you going? I answer, "Out for tapas ( I'm a smart ass) We all laugh as Robin and I are turning from red to purple. He gets off at the lobby and we continue to the spa.

Back at the spa, we are back in our ROBES. O. K. she says follow me. She takes me in 1 room , Robin to another for our massages. Now this girl was a tiny little thing and I was used to a beefier masseuse. She holds up a towel and says to get undressed. What? with her in there? I'm a bit modest, but what the hell. My massage lasted an hour, a full body one, front and back. It felt like a tiny little bird was jumping around. There was no muscle in that massage which is what I needed after Morocco. There was however a ton of Eucalyptuis oil used, she said it promoted good circulation.

Massage finished and Robin and I meet back up. She said hers pretty much sucked and I agreed. So Vincci Lys hotel- great, Massage at the Vincci Lys hotel- not so much. We had scheduled another for the next night which we would end up cancelling.

It's about 9;30 back at the room and we each lie on our beds to relax before dinner. 1/2 hour later, Robin says, " I am so tired", I say me too. She says do you really want to shower and get ready and go out for drinks tonite? I didn't, but I didn't want to be a buzz kill if she did, so I say either way, I can or not, I don't care. She says do you want to just throw on some jeans and get something to eat around here? Yep, we were both relieved, neither one of us wanted to get dolled up. Within 5 minutes we are dressed and out the door, still stinking of eucalyptus oil. I know gross LOL

A half block away we pop into a tapas bar called (shoot can't find the card, I'll ask Robin and post back). Anyway, it was pretty much all locals in there which is always a good sign of authentic and good food. Upstairs we sit at a table. We were starved, we ordered sangria, potatoes with some red sauce on it, spanish sausage, croquettes and egg omelet and shrimp in garlic. It was very yummy and our waitress was very sweet. She sent over Fabio to help with the English.

Fabio an Italian guy who looked just like Breckin Meyer spoke some English. We chatted with him for a while. He had moved to Valencia from Milan and said he was learning Spanish. I would think it would be really easy for someone who speaks Italian but he insisted he was not having an easy time.

After dinner and before our check our waitress brings over 2 shot glasses of some wicked strong Liquor. They said to shoot it in 1 sip. Robin wasn't having it but I was like what the hell and back it went as I felt hairs start to pop up on my chest. LOL. If anyone knows what this is, do tell. It is a Valencian drink. Anyway dinner was about 35(US).

We decide before heading back to the room we would go to the internet place around the corner to get the address for the Sendra Boot store. I had left it in the guidebook on my coffee table back home. We look up the address, check some emails and bank accounts. It seems the Sendra place is right near our hotel on the other side of the bull ring- Psych!

We call it a night

Next Valencia Day 2
laartista is offline  
Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 11:37 AM
  #116  
 
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Love those potatoes & red sauce -- had 'em in Madrid!
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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 11:52 AM
  #117  
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laartista, Not sure if I "want" to be at a GTG but we will see.

Yes, pink city is nice. Very different flavor from a western vacation or even to Morocco. But given your penchant for the unexpected, I am pretty certain you will enjoy it a lot. If you go, consider spending some time in Thar desert to contrast with your experience in Morocco (just realized I don't know how to spell Morocco & keep typing it with two r's!).

I will visit Spain in april for 3 whole weeks. I wanted to go to Morocco briefly but didn't get a very good feedback here (and elsewhere), and frankly, I don't want to visit a country only for couple days which is all I had beyond my current plans. Oh well.
 
Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 02:26 PM
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Ah man, I can kind of imagine dragging all of that along. I think we'll probably ship whatever we buy if it gets out of hand. Yikes, we could sink the ferry.

Our first real stop's Essaouira when we get there. Will let you know how it goes.
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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 02:45 PM
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I had been waiting until laartista had finished to toss in my congratulations on an absolutely wonderful account but I want to address a comment to ComfyShoes: if you have a couple of days to visit Morocco and can get even to Rabat or Fez I believe you will be trully enchanted. Like a lot of people Tangier was not a real happy experience (not really bad, just nothing I would want to do again or recommend to anyone) but Rabat or Fez are easy train rides from Tangier and if you have two days I say go for it just to get a taste. Rabat doesn't seem to get much press but it features a large medina and a very nice set of roman ruins and is very much worth a visit while the medina in Fez very much lives up to its reputation as a can't miss destination. Either or those cities will delight. As we learn from laartista, it is a good idea to keep a bit of an adventurous spirit, The country is generaly safe (use common sense) and you will be comfortable.

It's been a few years since I was in Morocco and did not make it below Rabat but laartista has certainly inspired or rekindled my desires and I like to think I will go back this year or next. I always describe my visit as it seemed to me I walked onto the pages of the National Geographic.

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Old Feb 21st, 2007 | 03:02 PM
  #120  
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floydvic, I am thinking of your advice even though given laartista's report, I am seriously tempted to experience holding on to my dear life by clutching a camel's back in some desert for extended periods of time.

Okay, I am trying to be funny but I will think of your suggestion. Thank you.
 


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