Rach-I know those potatos are delic. We had them again the next night with something like sour cream

Clifton- Please do post back on Essaouria. I don't know if it will be beach weather when ypu are there but I am curious about the bathing suit guidelines. Even though it was cold on our trip I heard it is best to dress conservatively and I'm not sure if that applies to the beach or not-maybe stupid but I am curious, anyway have a great time

Floy- Thank you so much for the compliment. And I agree with your advice to Comfy, even if just a few days in Marrakech. Easyjet just started flying direct from Madrid this week- so cheap flights.

Comfy- go if you can, seems you've been to India, and I will pick your brain when I'm ready to go there- I think you would like Morocco. NO camel neccessary. I will ride a camel again!

Day 9- Our second and last day in Valencia

Friday was really overcast,chilly and set to rain. We got up early so we could get a full day in. Our first stop would be the Sendra store that we had travelled there for. Scratch that we actually stopped at a small boutique first where I picked up a white leather bomber jacket(REBEJAS!!)

Toward the Bull ring we walked following our map. Located on C. Sueca we walked down Alcoy which turns into Sueca. The excitement was building- all eyes out to spot the Sendra sign. As we approach the cross street of Dania which is where it is, Robin picks up here pace. Then she shouts, " I SEE IT, IT"S HERE!!! The girl literally jumped up and down as if she had won the boot lottery. I had warned her that we might be disappointed and not to get her hopes up but she could not contain herself. I have to admit, I too was hopeful and pretty psyched.

There it was, what we had come to Valencia for, The Sendra Boot store. We walk in and our glee turns to boot despair.

A tiny little shop, not an outlet and NO REBAJAS! Damn. Bummer! Well we look around anyway. They had mostly the western boots and I for one did not need aniother pair of cowboy boots especially at 300-500 a pop. We actually stayed about an hour and Robin ended up buying the same pair she had gotten in Amsterdam in a darker color. I left empty handed. The sales girl did say there was another smaller Sendra store off of Colon(smaller? how can that be) We took the address.

Now I know everyone talks about the shoes in Spain. And even though I bought 2 pairs of boots, 1 in Valencia and 1 in Madrid, I gotta tell you I don't think the shoe selection in Spain is all that. I think they export great shoes but alot of the shoes are not great quality. I think, IMO the best shoe stores are in Amsterdam. Dr. Adams for one. Anyhoo enough of the shoe rant.

We were on our way that day to the Arts and Science park and the Aquarium. It would take us 4 hours to get there. Why? In a word, actually 2 words Rebejas and Zara. They have Zara in the states but it is way cheaper in Spain and their spring line is really cute. A bunch of shopping down the stores on Colon brings us once again to the Sea Doorway, a beautiful archway and down into the Turia riverbed which is now a park. We walk all the way to the aquarium.

On a nice day this would have been a fine walk, but it was cold and starting to drizzle and it is pretty far. But,we trek along. Passed the Music Palace and Gulliver Park(which is very cool) and we can finally see the white dome.

Even if you are not into architecture the city of Arts and Science is a sight to behold. I almost cried at it's awesomeness (I think I just pulled a W there,making up a word) Coming from the park as you approach I think the first thing you see is the storm trrooper helmut dome which houses the Palue de Arts (not yet open to the public. Followed by the Hemispheric dome which houses a museum. Surrounded by pools of water and totally futuristic I felt as if I had been transported into the movie Logans Run ( the original w/ Michael York).

It was a long walk there and of course the Aquarium where we were headed was the furthest building. We took a ton of pictures and finally arrive at the L'Oceanografic otherwise known as the largest aquarium in Europe.

We were starved and needed lunch before any thing else. So after buying our tickets which were 20 bucks each we head for the Submarino restaurant. Nope, can't eat there, a private function going on , she sends us to Oceanos. Past the pelicans and other seaside birds we grab some lunch.

Done with lunch we check out the Aquarium. Luckily it wasn't too busy. Seperated into a bunch of dome buildings this place was pretty neat. In one part you walk thru a tunnel and the fish are swimming all around you. We visit the sea lions and the different sections such as tropic and artic. It was fun. The Dolphinarium was closed ( love that name). But the best part was the walruses.

In the Artic section there are beluga whales, walruses and a few dolphins from the dolphinarium. On 2 levels you can watch the animals from above and thru glass below. Robin had gone upstairs and I stopped to watch the walruses downstairs thru the glass. Afterall that's where all the activity was.

Next to me was a group of Italian tourists. Next thing I know they are hooting and hollaring stuff in Italian and pointing to the window. Oh my, it's a walrus menage-a tois. No joke. One male walrus and 2 females. He would grab a female with his mitty fins and started doing her. LOL All the while commentary from the Italian peanut gallery. I yell up to Robin, hey get down here, walruses having sex. I felt like a five year old. She said really and ran down.

The Italians were snapping pictures as that male walrus went from one female to the other and back to the first. Fascinating it was. I swear, at one point that male walrus looked directly at us while still humping that female as someone snapped a photo. I felt bad for him, looked just like an embarrassed Wilford Brimley ( smuckers) and I just couldn't bring myself to take a picture of his private moment. We did watch though LOL.

Alright it was about 5 we had enough of the Auarium and wanted to get down to the beach.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...nyimd&Ux=1

laartista, Thanks. Yes, I can help with your India plans. If and when you are ready for it, give a heads up.

Now we had asked about the best way to get to the port/ beach area at the aquarium and quite frankly the woman lost us at the second bus. It was drizzly and cold and we just wanted a taxi. Note, not so easy outside the aquarium. Robin would eventually stand in the middle of the road to flag one down.

While waiting for the taxi Robin starts to poke fun at my language, or lack thereof, skills. She says , "you know what's funny? You say Habla Englais and when the say No, you say Parla Italiano. It's Parle Vous Italiano." I'm like, "no ,it's Parla Italiano and maybe they speak Italian which I know more of." She says, " And, it's Hablas Englais", I say, " no, it's Habla Englais." She says," well anyway, then you just go into English '. She was getting a real kick out of this. I said, " well you don't speak Spanish either." She said, " I speak more than you.' Well I don't know about that. She said," I've taken Spanish" ,I said well so did I , "Esta Suzanna en casa?" We laugh.

When we get in the taxi I ask, " Habla Englais? He says no, so I look at Robin and say, O.K. expert do your stuff tell him we want to go to the port/ beach where Americas Cup is. LOL psych! . She starts in Spanish and then nada! She laughs, F you, she says. Whatever, we need to pull out the map, because as it is ,neither one of speaks Spanish.

We tell the taxi driver we want to go to the port , the Americas Cup is there this year and we thought there
might be something to see. Well there wasn't! He took us to a gigantic hanger like structure, with nothing going on. No, we don't want to go here. I suppose in a few more months there will be alot going on but not then, just a bunch of construction.

We ask if there is an area by the beach with restaurants and such. He drops us by Hotel Neptune which I had looked at to stay, glad we didn't it's really out of the way from most sights. There at the cold windy beach, nothing open except for 1 or 2 cafe/ bars. Robin says lets walk down to the water. I had made the mistake of wearing a canvas jacket instead of my coat and was too cold. I said go ahead , I'll watch LOL. I stood shivering thinking she is nuts. I would guess during warmer months this area is hopping but not that day. We pop into a bar to warm up and decide on where to go next.

A beachy bar, the kind that in season probably houses too many drunk 20 somethings in barely any clothes, today just me and Robin, 3 business people in suits and 1 very, very handsome bartender. So good-looking in fact we thought lets have a drink and sightsee here. I ask if they have coffee he says chocolate with coffee in it. O.K. 2 please. Yep, melted chocolate in a cup, nothing like it on a cold day or on any day for that matter.

There we sat eating our chocolate drink with a spoon and each googling the bartender. Hey, we are both single, a little harmless flirting never hurt anyone. After 1/2 we were bored so on to find another taxi to take us back to the hotel. It was around 6:30 or so.

We get a taxi but he does not know our hotel, we tell him by the bull ring, and then Robin directs him from there. We get out and decide to get a starbucks and walk around Plaza del Ayuntamiento, before heading back to the internet cafe. We needed the train times for the trip back to Madrid the next day. 7am 0r 11 am, we opt to be realistic and take the 11.

Resting in our room and it's about 8:15 pm and Robin says, "hey want to run over to the other Sendra store it's right near here. Sure, lets go.

We spend another hour at Sendra. They did have Rebejas at this location, but I was shopped out. We did find out Sendra boots will custom make any pair for a 20% upcharge. Good to know. We were tired, had to travel the next day, dinner was great at the tapas bar from the night before so we opt to go there.

This night we sat downstairs, Fabio greeted us, more Sangria, a bunch of open faced mini sandwiches, an order of potatos and some meatballs and we are set. At the end of the meal they count our toothpicks about 25 Us later we are full and off to pack for the next day.

Final thoughts on Valencia

It is a wonderful city. I really enjoyed my time there and would recommend a visit to anyone. I am sorry I never made it to the Fallas museum. Gives me a resaon to return maybe for the Fallas Festival.

Next-Back to Madrid

I hate to see the report coming to an end, I'm enjoying every installment.

My condolences on the boot shopping in Valencia but it sounds like a delightful city -- I'm adding it to my list.

Like you, I'm anxious to return to Morocco and especially want to see Essaouaria. I don't know if you are aware of the Moroccan government's drive to increase tourism, but they have contracted for six large resorts to be built along the Atlantic coast (one has begun a bit south of Casa) and one will be in Essaour--- can never spell that correctly. They are increasing flights from Europe. The goal is to have 10 million tourists by 2010 and I want to see and stay (and shop) in Essa before it changes too much.

I don't know about bathing suits in Essa, but at the hotel pool in Marr. there were many one piece suits, some bikinis and a topless woman standing directly across the pool from me.

Comfy: I second the recommendation to visit Rabat or Fez if you can, both are exotic and interesting in their own way.

Nice report !!

The potatoes are "patatas bravas" and the valencian drink is called "agua de valencia" , it's cava (champagne) with orange juice.

When I began to read the Valencia report and heard about the Sendra boots (I've never heard of them before) I knew you will be a bit dissapointed... It's something like the Manolo's shoes..I have never seen ones on a regular shoes shop Probably they sell them in Madrid or BCN very upscale places..but definitely , they are not everywhere in Spain.

Thanks Lusiah and Kendrina

Ken:
Patatas Bravas-delicious
That drink definitly had no champagne in it. It was a shot drink for after dinner- kind of looked like tequila, pale yellow and was very, very strong. Do you know the name?

Whew.... Pressure pressure, Luisah (and others)! Still thinking.

So, "La", Interesting last couple reports. Do you plan your trips very heavily or do you do stuff in your travels at the spur of the moment? I suspect the latter but you seem to have a lot of fun which is great.

"googling the bartender"? Or "ogling"? After finally learning to spell mo"r"occo (so embarrased about it), is this a new term to consider using?

Ok, waiting for Madrid scenes.

No, I don't know the name right now I don't drink alcohol , hahaha. I know "agua de valencia" because it's very popular there. Maybe it was tequila..it's a very popular "chupito" also. "Chupito" is the liquor served on a tiny glass after dinner (or not) , can be anything the barman wants to put on it

O laartista I love your report! Enjoyed the France one as much! And I like your way of shopping - I also do not mind to drag and carry stuff along - with a picture in my head of how lovely it will look back home. I so much want to have a hand of Fatima - have a lovely book of Morocco and I often look at the pictures and dream of going to Morocco!

With the rest, I am following your report with great pleasure!

Comfy- actually it was oogling LOL
Thanks Chia, and Kend

Day10 Back to Madrid Goodbye Valencia

We got up early Sat. morning even though our train wasn't until 11:20. It was pouring out, raining really hard. A good day to be stuck on a train I guess. We had amassed a bunch of small bags and tried to consolidate but would end up again carrying alot of stuff.

Checkout of the hotel was a nightmare. One girl working the desk and like 30 people in line. Robin mentioned if it was New York there would be a riot. You know how impatient us New Yorkers are. At check out our hotel notified our hotel in Madrid ,another Vincci property ,of opur impending arrival.

Into the rain we go sans umbrella, each holding a handle of the duffle bag, it had gotten much heavier. LOl
We were only about a 5 minute walk from the train station, if that, so we felt stupid calling a taxi. Maybe we should have ,we were soaked by the time we got there. With still an hour til our train we got some munchies and coffee and at 11:15 boarded our train to Madrid for the 3 1/2 hour ride. I slept almost the whole way. Robin messed around with her blackberry.

We arrive in Madrid just before 3pm. The weather was better there, cold but not raining. We get a taxi to the Vincci Centrum hotel where we would be staying. This hotel IMO has a great location, easy walking distance from most of the sights. The hotel itself is small and boutique like and even though the room was tiny with only 1 window to an aii shaft, at 130E a night it was fine. Had a nice bathroom too.

Robin would be leaving the next day and I had reserved a room at the Me hotel in Santa Ana square for 165 E a night. At check in I asked what the rate would be if I stayed at Vincci Centrum and they quoted me 109E. I was already there, why pack and drag myself to the other place the next day when this hotel was perfectly fine. They were ever so nice and called the other hotel to cancel for me.. Hey, that's a saviings of almost 80 US a night. Money that could be spent elsewhere, like on shoes.

After we check in we decided it was late in the day already, we were pooped from running around the last week and a half, we would take it easy and just walk around the city. We chose to head toward the Salmanaca district.

Our hotel was located on Cedaceros street, a short walk from both Gran Via and Plaza del Sol. A quick left out the hotel takes us to Alcala which we would walk up to Salmanaca area. As we approach Plaza de Cibeles we notice there are a shitload of people out and about AND they are almost ALL carrying spanish flags in every size possible. Older elegent ladies in their furs, young families, students. On every corner vendors selling items of Spanish national pride. Walking further on Alcala toward Independence Plaza the crowds are getting bigger and a huge stage with screens are set up in front of the arch. We stop to ask a police woman what is going on.

She says it is a peace rally. I ask against the war. She says no, terorism. I ask because of the ETA bombing at the airport, she seemed suprised I knew, hey I watch the news. Yes, against ETA. Wild, we had seen the results of that bombing upon our arrival to Madrid 10 days ago and now on Robin's last night a rally against it. Sad, but cool to see. Alot of signs saying Zappetaro, Not in my name (in spanish of course). Those Spaniards really know how to get the masses into the street. I had goosebumples, even though it hadn't started yet.

We were hungry, and would stop in 7 or 8 cafes and bars , including the Irish pub with a huge rugby crowd before we could find room to squeeze in for a bite. Seriously, the area was jammed and it seemed everyone in madrid was getting a snack before the rally.

Finally we turn onto Serrano, where we would be shopping and pop into a cafe.
The counters upstairs were too crowded so we head downstairs. A bit more managable ,we squeeze into a corner. Robin's sugar was getting low and she snapped at me something fierce how she needed food. I was scared. She sat at a table while I ordered a quiche and a cheese sandwich to split , 2 cafes and 2 waters. I brought her the water and coffee and we were then yelled at by the counter women that we could not sit there. Why? Don't know, but I wasn't in the mood to argue so we just stood at the counter. She forgot our quiche. I was trying to tell the other counter girl but she kept bringing me another sandwich. Finally, a young couple felt our pain and told her in Spanish that the other woman had forgot our quiche in the microwave. Not the most enjoyable OR relaxing lunch of the trip. We were given a plastic board to take upstairs to pay, we laughed it off and began stroll up Serrano.

Serrano is a really lovely shopping street. Mostly expensive stores, but there was REBEJAS, I love rebejas. I have never bought anything at Adolfo Domingez, but they were having a hell of a sale and picked up an awesome pair of pointy black patent leather ballet flats, plus gloves, I lost mine in the desert. I knew that hotel savings would go to good use.

We continued to walk Serrano for a while, shopping along the way and then turned back and onto Goya, another nice street. As we walked and the sun went down, more and more people were making their way to Independence Square.

Next- One huge rally and guess who got stuck in the middle of it

Oh, yes !! Big demonstrations are a Spanish skill By the way, the one in Madrid against the Irak war had more that three times the people that were in the one you found so think about it as a not so big one !!

The name for the sales is REBAJAS
Glad you enjoy them !!

Google, Ogle, Oogle... Whew!

What is "Zapatero, not in my name"? What do you mean? Was this your first trip to Madrid?

That was written on the signs of the demonstrators. They were against ETA but also against the Government politics. Zapatero is our President.They were trying to negotiate with ETA their finish (some kind of negotiation like the one in Ulster) before the Barajas bombing.And the people (some ETA victims and also people from the party in opposition now, PP) on that rally didn't want the government to negotiate. That's why they said..not in my name.

Thanks Kend for the correction on Rebajas- yes it is very good

Comfy - Zappatero is the Spainish president, I'm not big on Spains politics so I'm not sure about this but I'm guessing it has to do with his stance on ETA and the spanish people are not in agreement with his actions- maybe someone local will pipe in and explain. And, no not my first time to Madrid I was there in 99 for a few days, so it's been a while.

Kendrina thanks for the clarification. I wasn't sure & we posted at the same time. LOL
Do you live there Kend?

Yes, I live in Castellon, 67 km north of Valencia

I know who Zapatero is. Who can forget the bombing that is rightly or wrongly attributed to have brought him to power, the trials for which started just last week or so. I was confused with "not in my name". I guess it means don't vote for me or some such thing.

Near Valencia, eh? A few more reports by "la", and I might start considering a move to some such place

No, the "not in my name" is because here every law or act of the government is made "in the name of the Spanish people" (it's the first article of our Constitution..."the Sovereignity belongs to the Spanish people&quot.

And during all that time I thought Juan Carlos was the king and Zapatero the Prime Minister