Still loving this story. We're driving out to Merzouga by ourselves, but thinking about writing Omar too. Sounds like a good group of guys... great what they did for your b-day. (ps, happy b-lated, b-day from us too)

But how did you get all that stuff home from Marrakech? Camels aren't known to be good swimmers.

I am loving this trip report too. It is great to hear all the details and you are a very entertaining writer!

We have no room due to our motorhome living and current gypsy lifestyle,so we will mostly window shop in the souk. I can not believe how much you bought.

I also found Morocco MUCH more expensive than I imagined ( as someone else mentioned). I guess too many European tourists. Maybe next time in we will find the bargains after we get our feet wet this time.

I wanted to ask you what you think about two nights sleeping in the desert? Is it too much? We will be in the black desert with a special family one night which I thought would be especially nice for our child.Then a fairly luxurious tent and enclosed bathroom tent in an oasis the second night.Whatdya think?

Vicky22201...I was surprised to see my name in your post title since I am new here. Look on my blog for my public email:
http://www.soultravelers3.com/

Oh btw , the only reason I am doing the camel ride is for my kid ( it is amazing what one does for them).

I could soooo relate to your fear aspects around the camel ride. I can see me hanging on tight too. How bad is it exactly as far as the fear factor?

I thought you were terribly brave and accepting with the bug sour and spider bed. eeeewwwww. I hope we do not run into such. Those long car rides sounded killer too.I am scared of that pass ( with all the car accidents in Morocco) without the fog and ice.

I don't suppose seatbelts are done there? We have a cool vest kind of carseat replacement ( light and effective as best carseat),should we bother to bring it? It can easily be hooked up to any seatbelt ( and she wears it in the RV as we roam).

Thanks again everyone. Of course it's more fun writing when you know someone is reading.

Lol, No Clifton, camels are not known to be the best swimmers. Main reason for shopping on Tues. is we knew what we were capable of and didn't want to have to lug the extra luggage to the desert and back.

This is what we did. I brought (1) 30" roller, expandable, pretty much packed because I couldn't decide which boots to bring so I brought 4 pair- Note *** MISTAKE-(sent 2 home), but bought 2 in Spain. Again shopaholics anonymous! In my suitcase I packed a large soft duffle bag.

Robin brought a 30" roller empty, and an 20" or so roller with her clothes. She'a a better packer.

Robin was going home first 6 days before me. On Wed. we would fly back to Madrid, where she would be flying out of on Sunday and store our luggage.

We used my large suitcase for all the breakables. Now I earn my living as a mosaic artist so I know how to pack fragiles. We did not bring any bubble wrap so, all the clothes I had already worn and wouldn't be wearing again(like the desert stuff) and 2 pair of boots we used to pack around all the ceramic plates and tangine bottoms only.We put the hookah in a sock and then in a boot. That suitcase was filled with all heavy purchases and clothes to be sent home- it weighed a ton and yes, we got slammed with overweight charge at Iberia getting it back to Madrid.We initially thought it would be a good idea to put all the ceramics in one suitcase, but in the future I would split up the heavy stuff to avoid the xtra charge. Not too bad tho I think 60E, we split it. AND, it was our only bag we got hit with a charge for- Until I flew from Madrid to Lisbon- more on that later.

In the green duffle from my suitcase I put all my clothes I would need for the next 9 days plus all Robins shoes and boots.Plus all liquids over 3 oz.

In Robins big Red suitcase went all the Lanterns except the gigantic one she bought(super-cool, a good 28"-30" high- 20" diameter) In the lanterns with more glass on them we packed the leather camel toys and ballet slippers and such for interior padding. In the ones with no glass we packed smaller ceramics surrounded by socks.

Robin put her clothes she would not be wearing plus anything extra we couldn't fit in the other bags in her black roller.

In her carry on she put her clothes and things for her stay stil Sunday.We also carried on all the tangine TOPS, Our paintings,and the huge lantern. We would send all bags ,except for the duffle home with Robin- a story in itself-later.

BTW, Clifton, I would ,and just my opinion, get someone to drive you to Merzouga. If not Omar, another guide. I am a great driver and not a sissy one. My favorite thing is to cut the taxi drivers off here in NYC. I am considered a VERY aggressive driver and have the speeding tickets to prove it. Have driven the Amalfi and the Upper Corniche in south France and would NOT want to drive over those Atlas Mountains-- Again just my opinion.

I'm probably jumping ahead, but did all your purchases make it home in one piece?

laartista:

Guilty, as charged. I'm the one who recommended that Clifton drive to the desert, as we have in the past. The drive from Fes, for example, does not touch any Atlas passes..and it's a traffic-less smooth-road drive. When arriving at any of the Erfoud lodgings, guides are availabe to take you to Erg Chebbi, Merzouga and Rissani. Just hire one on the spot....and the camel treks can be arranged there, too.

As for the Atlas passes from "O" to M'kech...at any time of the year except Winter, it's no worse than the many passes we have in California. I found it to be quite mild in that regard...and the last time we did it , rained all the way.

Go for it, Clif...Laartista, I feel that if you were driving the pass yourself rather than as a passenger, it wouldn't have seemed half that bad.

Stu T.

Working with 2 windows here, trying to get the next installment up-afterall I have to resume working at some point.LOL

Rach- Luckily- no breakage, not one thing- we were lucky

TOW- yOU KNOW come to think of it. it probably was the weather conditions thathad me so freaked out. I mean on the ride back there was almost no visiblity. So I guess in regular weather it might not be so bad. Plus, you're right it always seems worse when you're not driving. I actually hate being the passenger.

O.K. so we have shopped our arses off, blew off our massages (which by the way we had made res. at Les-Baines but they said we had no res. make sure you get a verbal confirmation #, so we booked at Oriental)and it was now 7:15 and we had what we thought were 8 pm res. at Chez Ali. One nore trip back to the riad to drop off bags and off to find a taxi.

At the taxi stand located by La Koutoubia we found Rasheed. He quoted us 250 (30 US) rt to Chez ali. Now this was probably way too much but we were tired, running late and to be honest all bargained out. We did not realize it was on the outskirts of M-kech, 20 min or so by taxi, so we just said fine.

We chatted Rasheed up all the way and then we saw it, like the big sombrero at South of the Border the neon light sign of Chez Ali. Both Robin and I aloud Chezzzz Aliiii in a whisper while making big circles with our hands. Rasheed laughed and we found some humor translates in any language.

Rasheed was learning English but mostly spoke to us in French, which I understand more than I speak.Seems we had no reservation, so Rasheed took us in brought us to the guy with a list and told us he would wait for us to come out when we were ready. We had not paid him yet- again taxi honor system.

Now I had read mixed reviews on Chez Ali. I gotta tell you, I would recommend it- we had a blast. Touristy? Absolutely. But, we were tourists so it was fitting.

Chez Ali is a bigger, better Moroccon Mideival Times.( sorry my spelling sucks)A gigantic horse ring surrounded by elaborate tents for dining and some large Disneyesque Moroccon style buildings. As you approach the entrance horses with their arabian riders line the way. Photo Op #1 with a bayonette and a horse, photo Op #2 with the water jug guys, past the ducks,thru a pirates of the caribbean treasure scene and bam- you are in.

Like little chicks in a line we follow the man with the list, entertained by dancers and musicians in different regional costumes along the way. Finally we arrive at our tent room. about 15-20 tables in a semi circle. Each table seats 8-10 people. Robin and I are seated alone. The table was huge. Little cats come in and out of tent. These felines are smart. From table to table they go, and they are not shy. Right up on the banquett they jump and plop themselves down. Now I love cats and all animals so I thought it was cute. One cat sat himself on the man at the next tables backpack for a nap. He too was an animal lover. I felt compelled to call my cat sitter to ask about bear.

3 waiters work the room. Dressed in white with red sashes and fez hats. It is a preset menu. We had no idea how much it cost because we never got tickets. We also had no idea if they took credit cards and we had very little Dirham left after our afternoon at the souk.

First course is bread and soup. It was good, not very good, but good. As you eat ,thru your entire meal, different groups of dancers and musicians make their way into your tent and to your table. It is all very entertaining and great fun. They prompt you to get up and dance with them. One group of woman dancers elbowed Robin and then flipped their hands for a tip. It was very funny. They were the only group to do so.

After the soup they bring a plate of meat, we think it was lamb, we are still not sure. We really didn't care for it. Thing is, no matter how many people are at your table they bring food for 10. We thought , so much wastage in a country where the people were so poor. It was odd. We asked what happened to all the leftovers. The waiter said the camel ate them. Now I only saw one camel, and I'm not sure how much camels eat, but it was a very big camel.

Next course a gigantuous plate of chicken tangine on cous- cous. This was very good and we shared it with our cat friends. The best part of the meal though was the dessert. Not sure what it was but it was a really big crepe sandwich filled with a nut paste of some sort and crumbled nuts on top. Decadent and delicious.

All the time during dinner we kept trying to ask the waiters if they took visa. We were getting nervous. What would happen if they didn't. We joked about all the tangines we would have to clean. Or perhaps pick up camel dung or the absolute worst case scenerio, be belly dancers in the after dinner show. Oh god, NOT THAT! I mean I don't know about Robin but I had already out grown my clothes in the past 6 days. You've heard of muffin top when peoples jeans are too tight. Well, I had surpassed muffin top and had cous- cous top going on. Actually I think it was more likely the 2 chocolate croissants I ate every morning, whatever it was I did not want to be a belly dancer.

WOW – your report is fantastic and informative. Your birthday in the Sahara sounds magical and who knew Chips Ahoy are a camel aphrodisiac?

I'm so glad I waited to read the past couple of days in one installment: I especially enjoyed seeing the photos interspersed, it really brought your story to life. Can’t wait for the Berber Olympics photos...and, of course, more pookies!

Thanks for the reply back Andrea. I thought for sure you'd found a way to ship all that. Major props for lugging it along! We carry one 21" backback each, so we may try to send anything big home by freight then. I've seen some very cool stuff in pics, so it's possible we'd buy more than we usually do. Plus we're making our way by public bus & ferry to Spain after leaving Fes, so that seems like it'd be a problem to lug more stuff. Was hoping you'd stumbled on some shipping secrets!

Appreciate you looking out for us on the driving. Yep, Stu (tower) and I have written about driving via emails. I was wondering if that weather might have made the impression you had. And I'm a white-knuckle passenger myself - all part of my control freak thing. But we've driven ourselves back and forth around the Carpathians in Romania and through the mountains in Thailand skirting the Burmese border and loved it. I'm a real photo junkie, so I'm always pulling over for one must-have shot or another. I'm afraid I'd drive a guide crazy out on a road trip.

Still loving the report. One of the best I've ever read for Morocco. You have a real gift for writing.

This is a great report, I love it. I'm glad you had such a wonderful time and want to return -- as I do.

I traveled to Morocco in Sept. and rode from Fes to Merzouga then from Merzouga to Marrakech and the ride wasn't bad at all, but I can see where it would be frightening going over the passes in bad weather with poor visibility. In clear weather it's really beautiful.

Love the bargaining techniques you developed, I'll have to remember those for my next trip.

Thanks guys
mvor-I hope it wasn't the chips ahoy that brought on that behavior LOl

Clift.-Lugging that stuff sucked-BUT-sure does look great in my apartment. Alot of places offer to ship-at an xtra charge of course. You can bring it to the post office yourself nad ship home, that was an option OR the place where you are staying can help you out.

To continue-

After dessert we were brought a huge bowl of fruit. Mainly oranges, we found this with every meal-even in the desert. We passed- were too full. When the bill finally arrived we held our breath- hoping thay took credit cards. They did- and thankfully for the crowd that was amassing around the horse ring outside Robin and I would NOT be bellydancing. Total for 4 course meal and loads of entertainment about 60 US each. Worth it in our books.

After dinner a quick stop in the restroom where Robin somehow got herself locked in. LOL. Fortunatly the nice Italian woman from the table next to us fetched someone to get her out. We couldn't blame it on the alchohol- because, well there wasn't any!

It was freezing out, and we had not bundled up. We took a seat on the bleachers to wait for the "SPECTACULAR" to begin. The lights dim the music starts, here come the horses. A spectacular? Maybe not. But fun none the less. The best part was the acrobatics on horseback, each rider taking a turn. That went on for a while, then some dancers, then a LOL LOL just the thought makes me laugh.

A large fake royal palace that looked like my 5 year old nephew made it rolls out. I kept thinking of those I Love Lucy episodes where she would hide behind a plant or something and move with it to spy on Ricky. It was kind of ridiculous as it wobbled its way to center ring. The cardboard palace stops. I kept thinking, this place is so elaborate, couldn't they find it in their budget to build a better fake, rolling palace. Apparently not.

The lights dim and a poof of smoke and Voila. Atop the palace a beautiful belly dancer. Mine and Robin's first response- She must be freezing her ass off! As we shivered in our seats. She was very good at the whole belly dancing thing and about 3/4 thru her routine Robin leans over and says " good thing they took Visa, Right? LOL That is definitely right I replied.

Some more horses, some more dancers, still freezing, the horse ring fills up with what seems to be almost every employee in the joint- Hey, that's our cue to beat the crowd out just as if we were at a Met game bottom of the 8th and they are trailing 8-1. As we leave the festivities and make our way out to the parking area, the fireworks start. We stop a minute to watch- look at each other as to say- do we really need to stay and watch these- the answer is NO-too cold. As soon as we get to the parking area we see a car pull up, it is Rasheed- our trusty taxi driver.

We told Rasheed about our night and chatted with him all the way back to town. We got into an interesting discussion about language. What made it really interesting is he spoke little(and I mean little English) We spoke even less French and only knew 1 word in Arabic. Funnily enough we seem to understand each other. Weird thing is, I am really good at understanding the romance languages while only able to speak a bit. He said he was trying to learn English and showed us his study book. He said in Morocco they only teach Arabic and French in the public schools. Only in the private schools, which are very expensive do they teach English. So most youngsters are not learning any English. He thought that with all the tourism in Morocco, they should be teaching English. It took 20 min. for us to understand that bit.

When we arrived back in town , he pulled up by the square where the streets are blocked off. There was a policeman, Rasheed chatted with him, the cop moved the blockade and Rasheed drove us as close as he could to our alley. We paid him, tipped him, exchanged kisses and handshakes (we found the Moroccon people very friendly) and we were on our way. Sadly, we would be leaving the next day. It was about 1 am, we still had to pack and wanted to get up early for some last minute dallying around the square.

Next up- some last minute bargaining and one very long day to Valencia.

<<I am a tad bit older than you though - how do you think a physically fit, fun loving woman of a certain age would manage?>>

A physically fit woman of any age would manage easily. I never know what "a certain age" means but I went to Morocco with a group of 13 ranging in age from the 40s into the 70s and all were fine. Did camel ride, camped in the desert, shopped (of course), ate wonderful healthful food and had a great time.

There are loads of tour groups and guides if you want to go on your own, which I will do next time, but if you'd be comfortable with a group Elderhostel (55+) offers a tour and a night camping at Merzouga and Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT)does too, but with groups of no more than 16 and three nights camping in the desert. Both are around 15 days and include Rabat, Fes, Marrakech and the desert.

You'll find more trip reports and information about guides on Fodors Africa section.

Morocco is safe and easy to get to, less than seven hours from JFK and you'll find yourself in an Arabian Nights country. Exotic, interesting and lots of fun.

Go for it!

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...nqqf7&Ux=1

pictures from Chez Ali

Yes, Lusiah is spot on-go for it! It is a good destination for any age.

Day 7- Onto Valencia

We were sad to be leaving Morocco that afternoon. but not too sad for some last minute shopping and hanging around the square. We started our day with breakfast at a cafe on the square.

The first cafe we stopped in we were NOT served. This was weird because it was on the main square. There were no women there except for the one making the coffee. We sat down at an outside table. No one came over. I went inside and walked up to the waiter standing at the counter. He would not look at me. I asked in my terrible French for 2 coffees. He ignored me. I asked again and he waved me away. I went back outside and waited 20 minutes .We watched him bring coffee to the men including the cute British guy sitting in the corner. Again, I askled and again was waved away. It was either that we were American or women, we were not getting served there. We moved on to a cafe that had alot of tourists and had our coffee nad some breakfast too.

Our first stop was to swing by the stall to pick up our lanterns we had purchasedthe day before. We didn't feel like carrying them around plus the guy was going to wrap Robins gigantic lantern. It was 10:30 and they were not open yet. And then we spotted it, a new purse stand. How did we miss it the day before. We bee-line for the stall.

Oh, the purses, we had a real sickness. After very hard bargaining to the point where I just walked out, Robin was actually asked to leave his booth twice, each time going back in uninvited. She wanted them , would not give up, but this particular vendor did not succumb easily to her bargaining charms. Finally, Berber deal! So 4 additional leather purses later, for a total of 650 D (75 US) and we were off.

Back to the lantern place to pick up our stuff, and the bargaining monster, previously known as Robin, is at it again, SCONCES are on her radar. I'm convinced it became sport for her, one she really enjoyed, and I was benefitting so- bargain on! She got her sconces AND candy dishes as free gifts- she is truely talented at this. O.K. enough, it is 11:30, our flight leaves at 2:10, we need to get to the airport.

Back at the hotel we finish packing our bags and in record time get them down the 3 flights of stairs(no lift)
Earlier we asked the guy working the front desk if we could have someone help us with our bags to the taxi stand. We had ALOT of stuff and it would take a few trips if we did it alone. He said he would arrange it.

So there we are when our "arrangement" arrived. God, this is embarrassing, it's a DONKEY CART, minus the donkey. We couldn't stop laughing. What would Graham and Linze think, we joked, those two travelling for 3 weeks with a backpack and we need a DONKEY CART.

Horrified at our own gluttonous shopping behavior and the luggage it had produced, we follow the frail man who pushed our donkey cart thru the alley ways to the taxi stand. Gawks from onlookers did not make us feel any less embarrassed. Whatever, we thought, we work hard all year- the fruits of our labor.

Now those taxi drivers saw us coming and converged on us like flys on , well you know. Business must have been slow that morning because I swear there was alnmost a fist a cuffs on who would drive us. Mind you, these were all petite taxis and Robin and I were concerned we would not fit w/ all the bags. Before we knew it, the trunk was full, 2 big suitcases in the front seat and the rest of the crap in the back with us including gigantalantern which sat on Robin's lap. 200 D later(total rip off, but we were late) we arrive at the airport to be greeted by a porter and HIS cart. Into the airport we go to check in for our Ibera flight back to Madrid.

Next- Ugh the check-in counter

laartista - You may be getting ready to answer this with your next installment, but I was just checking our flights on Royal Air Maroc (Barcelona to Marakkech) and noticed that they state "End of check-in time is 8:55pm". This is for a 9:50pm flight. Did you notice if they really END check-in almost an hour before the flight? I plan on getting there before that anyway, but was just curious as it seemed a bit excessive.

JGG-You must have been reading my mind. They do seem to be serious on that at that airport.

So, I would definitly suggest to be at the airport 2 hours before your flight. Things move slowly in Morocco. We checked in at Iberia, handled by Royal Air maroc. Now we knew our luggage at least the one with all the ceramics was going to be overweight. It was by alot. The girl was very sweet and wrote down a lower weight so our charge was 60 dollars as opposed to about 100. She also told Robin not to check gigantalantern because it would be her 3rd piece checked and she'd have to pay an additional 120 Euro for that alone. Off the belt that lantern came. It took about 1/2 hour until I walked 3 feet to the window to pay for the overage, get a slip and walk back to our kiosk. At the very next kiosk was a French ski club returning from a ski trip. until then I wasn't aware there was great skiing in Morocco, guess there is. They were a jolly group and sang the equivalent of fight songs the entire time. All very entertaining.

A quick coffee at the cafe, the only cafe, and on to passport control. We both go right thru and onto security. They were very, very thorough, so much so that Robin was completely felt up, including being cupped between her legs by some Moroccan army woman. I couldn't help but laugh LOL, her face was priceless.

The flight to Madrid was uneventful, thank goodness, and upon arrival at terminal 4 we went right back to the luggage lockers. No way were we lugging all that stuff around for the next 4 days. We took 2 lockers and only kept our 2 carry ons and the one dufflebag.

We decided it might be easier to just rent a car and drive to Valencia, but no luck. Not an available car at any agency in all the airport. We stop by the RENFE counter to find out about train times. There were two, one at 7pm and one at 8:20. If we hurried maybe we could catch the 7. So we jumped in a cab to Atocha Station.

Five til, can we make it? NO WAY. So we buy the tickets for the 8:20 at the do-it-yourself machine.

Now, both our cell phones had died 2 days before. No converter. We bought one at the airport, but when we opened it, plugs didn't fit in. The converter had some sort of lip on it. Avoid this kind. We sat at the cafe downstairs at the station. Thru the doors to the left there is a shopping area. I said maybe they had a converter there. Armed with the phone I set off. How delighted I was when I spotted the phone store-SCORE! Pop in, yep, they have a converter, but I opt for the european charger.

Robin was psyched, she needed to check her work messages, I did too, but didn't care as much. The only outlet that worked was one in the brick wall across the way. So there she stood, charging her phone for 1/2 hour while crouching next to the wall. I however, enjoyed a coffee.

We boarded the train and settled in for our 3 1/2 ride to Valencia. Noone ever checked our tickets that were about 50 dollars. I asked the girl in the cafe car if there was an outlet anywhere, I wanted to charge my pnone too. She said in the bathroom.

Did I hear right? The bathroom.? Yep, that's where the outlet is on the Spanish train, in the bathroom. Alright, I walk to the bathroom at the end of our car and sure enough, so I plug in and set it on a paper towel on the floor. Kinda gross considering that phone will be near my ear, that already has been aching for a week. Good thing I also brought Purell.

There I sit, by the luggage, acting as the bathroom gazstapo. Every one who came to use that bathroom was greeted by me and the following phrase. " In il banjo, mio telefono"( great Spanish, right?) they would just give me a weird look, UNTIL, they came out. Then they would smile and shake their head because they saw the phone charging. This went on for the first hour of our ride.

Back at my seat I check in at home, have a grilled cheese sandwich and a snooze. We arrive in Valencia at
11:45 pm. It was late and the train station was a bit deserted. Not knowing where our hotel was located we just hop in a cab. Vincci Lys, per favor. The driver repeats Vincci Lyys? Si, Vincci Lys. He chuckled, drove us around the corner and said, Vincci Lys. We are idiots. We pay him, check in, our room is lovely. And at 95 Euro anight, A steal!

After our riad, the kasbah, the tent in the desert, a real hotel room never looked so good. Besides it was a really nice hotel, with what we would find was a great location. A large room, Laura Ashley style, red, huge bathroom, comfy beds, breakfast included, CNN,free internet, we were psyched and slept very very well, it had been a long day of travel.

Next; Valencia is awesome

Wow laartista, you have the most interesting trips!! I love your reports, you make me feel like I am travelling with you. And you are quite an adventerous traveller, you make me feel like a wimp, lol. But I can only imagine how wonderful the hotel room in Valencia looked to the two of you!

This is a great report! Not only funny, but lots of useful information included.

I'm anxious to see pics of the loot; you certainly got a lot for your money. I'm yearning to return and may have to rent Robin as a bargaining guru.

Love the donkey cart image.

Great trip report, fun to read.
Was in Marrakech for Xmas so interesting to read another perspective on it!