Day 5 Monday.

We were supposed to wake up for the sunrise over the dunes but, it was raining and cloudy so no sunrise viewing for us. Instead we were awoken by Omar at about 8:00 for breakfast. The night before I kept remarking on how I heard a cat meowing. Robin said it was the guys being funny. However when we awoke there was the cutest little white cat in our bed. He is pictured with Nick and matt. He lives there, and the berber family takes care of him when Omar is not around. He was very cuddly and friendly.

After Birthday wishes from all, a quick brush of the teeth and a group trip to the bathroom bush we all sat down for breakfast while the crew prepped the camels for the ride back.It had finally stopped rainng but was still pretty chilly. I agian was first to mount the camel. Robin took video, I'll see if I can post it. The scariest part of the camel ride is definitly getting up and down.

The ride back to the 4x4 took about 1 hour 45 min. It was beautiful and about half way thru the sun peeked thru which gave us the opportunity for an infamous camel shadow shot. Robins camera had died nad she yelled to me if I was taking Pictures. Whit-knuckled grip still, I yelled back NO! I saked if she wanted my camera and the caravan paused as Mohammed came to get my camera for her. Good thing or we would have no pictures from that ride. And still there was Omar walking agin in the distance, occasionally looking back to check on us.

Linze remarked how she didn't want to leave the deaert yet. It was surreal out there and I agreed. Although cold, with an earache and still in my clothes from Sat. am I also wished we had at least one more night. But we didn't and soon arrived back to be greeted by Hassan.

Hit the button too soon.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...hhiqx&Ux=1

Arriving back we were all sad to leave our camels and our new Berber friends. Robin and I had brought I Love NY T-shirts for Omar, Hassan and our 3 guides. They seemed to like them. So if anyone goes on a trek with them and sees them wearing one it came from us. LOL. We had a long ride back about 10 hours that would turn into 12 and we were dropping Omar at his parents house in Merzouga.

Getting into the SUV I went to get in the back and Omar asked where I was going, that the front seat was mine. I said No, you sit there you're the boss. He said, No, you're the boss. I just laughed. I did take the front back once we dropped him off.

On the way to his parents I noticed I was the only one who still had my scarf on. I asked Robin where hers was and she said we all gave them back to Omar. I quickly took mine off to hand it back to him. He said mine was a Birthday gift, I should keep it. Psych, first a cake, now a gift- awesome!

We finally arrived at the parents house. I got out to get in the front. We still had not paid Omar the balance. I asked did he want the money now or should we pay Hassan. He said if we had it we could give it to him. WE paid the balance for us 2 of 210 Euro. I gave him some Euro, some Dirham and now really needed an ATM.

We exchanged hugs and kisses and said so long to Omar. the 6 of us and Hassan were on our way to one freaky ride back to Marrakech.

We would take the more southern route to Quarzazate and then back over the Atlas mountains to Marrakech. There was some concern for the road over the mt.s had closed the night before due to snow and Hassan wasn't sure it would be open. He received updates on his cell every 1/2 hour or so.

Our first stop was Rissini where Robin and I would use the ATM, Hassan would pick up some bread and Lynze would fetch some cigarettes. Hassan pulled up outside a bank. It was interesting how soon our suv was the center of attention. a young boy escorted Robin and I to the bank I gave him 5 D. While back in the car, waiting for Hassan and Lynze, a woman or teenage girl (hard to tell) covered head to toe in a black burka, just stood outside my window with her hand out. It was sad, and during my trip I did give change to alot of children, but I felt uncomfortable opening the door just to give her money. I'm sure she was way mor uncomfortable than I. I feel bafd saying this but if I'm to be honest I ignored her. Ugh, I felt terrible about that.

We left Rissini and on the road to Alnif we came across a wild camel herd. Mamas, papas and baby camels eating I think Eucalyptus leaves. It was really neat and Hassan stopped the car. Robin got out to take pictures. (She is out of control with a camera). She got right up to those camels while I yelled- Robin , don't get too close! She just ignored me so we got some good shots.

Next past the palm groves and to Alnif where would stop for our best meal yet.The restaurant was on the second floor of a small hotel with a nice view. The dining area was bright and sunny which was nice after 3 days of bad weather. There was a set menu for lunch, I think we paid the equivalent of 8 US each.

Lunch was served family style. Started with a mixed salad of lettuce and cheese and eggs, corn, beans, olives etc. Then Brouchettes, I think lamb, 3 for each. Then a really interesting dish of sunny side up eggs with rice and onions baked in a tangine in a red sauce. It was delicious and we were so over chicken tangine that it was a nice change.

I think it was about 2 or 3 when we left lunch. We had a long ride ahead and plenty of i tunes. The scenery was amazing and very different from the way there. The drive thru the Draa Valley was spectacular and we stopped occasionally to take pictures. The sun was strong and over the windy passes to Quarzazate I was wondering how Hassan was driving at all. I was in the front and couldn't see a thing.

Nick asked if I could see the road I said no. How is he seeing it she asked. I don't know if he is I answered. I took off my sunglasses and tapped Hassan's shoulder to hand them to him. He took them and put them on. We felt a bit better but then he put them on top of his head and just left them there. Needless to say it was a bit stressful but not as scary as the drive to come, back over the ATLAS MOUNTAINS .

Approaching Quarzazate we encountered a drunk driver. Not fun. We motioned to Hassan to stay far behind him. The mountain pass WAS open, but probably should't have been. We stopped at the beginning of the ascent into the mountains because the entire car except for me had to pee. They all went on the side of the road including the girls. Hey, when ya gotta go, you gotta go! The next 2 1/2 hours or so were absolutely FRIGHTFUL!

Honestly, the entire time in MOrocco, the only time I seriously feared for my safety was that drive back over the mountains. It was lightly snowing but the fog was so thick you could not see your hand in front of you. Hassan even looked a bit nervous which didn't make us feel any more safe. At one point his phone rang and when he went to answer it I shot him a look like DON"T EVEN. I did not want him taking a hand off the wheel. And even in this horror show, still we saw berbers walking along the road. Unbelievable.

At one point it got so tense Graham asked me for one of my Xanax that I have for flying. I gave him one and took one myself. LOL Felt calmer after that.

Finally we were out of the mountains and none too soon. We arrived back in Marrakech at around 9:45, we had taken a pool on arrival time. Robin won, she would be buying the wine. We needed it.

Hassan dropped us at the main square. We all clapped and tipped 600D for the weekend. We each put in 100. We had decided to all go for dinner. Nick and Matt were heading to their riad and would meet us at the restaurant. We tailed along with Lynze and Graham . From the car we had made a reservation at their riad because we hadn't booked anywhere to stay for that and the following night. Little did we know what awaited us.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...4ub2b&Ux=1

What awaited you???????????????????

Don't leave us hanging too long! What?

I finally heard back from the mysterious man-Omar.

LOL What awaited us was a freakin riad nightmare. Sorry for the cliffhanger, hopefully it's not too anticlimatic.

Lynze and Graham were staying at a riad called Sterazade, very near to the main aquare. Paying 450 D (55 Us) a night we said score, we'll stay there too. We made a reservation from the car for a twin room with a bathroom for 480D per night.

We followed L & G to the riad which was in a good location and was a really nice place. Thing is, and totally our fault, between Robin and I we had 3 rolling bags and 2 backpacks so going down the small alleyways took some manuvering. We arrived at the riad ,L & G checked in and went to their room # 3 and we were to meet them in 20 min. to walk to the restaurant.

So, we check in and the guy says we are all full here, BUT, we will put you in our guest house around the corner. WHAT? NO! We don't want to be in the guesthouse. The woman who took the res. said you had availability. Well she was wrong he said. We were not happy about this but had nowhere to stay so we said fine.

A bellman type guy came to help with our bags and we followed him not around 1 corner, but around 5 corners to a dark, dead end alley way. The main riad was on a main alley, lit up and needless to say neither I or Robin felt comfortable. At an unmarked door at the end of this dark alley, the bellguy takes a key and opens it. Inside, although pretty ,it was very, very dark. A total of 3 or 4 rooms on two floors around a central courtyard. There was no staff there. We had to beg him to help us up the windy stairs to our room.

The room had 1 large bed, no heat, no bathroom and most importantly NO LOCK ON THE DOOR! Plus, seemed we were the only ones staying there. We told him we reserved with a bathroom. Robin looked at me and in unison we just said, UH, NO! Not staying here! We tipped him and had him help us back down the stairs and back to Sterazade.

Back at Sterazade the night manager seemed annoyed with us. Well, we were annoyed with him. That room was not a double, no bath, no heat, not what we paid for! He said I have another guest house. I was getting pissed and Robin was just about to blow a fuse. We had arrived from 3 days traveling and in the desert, we wanted a shower and heat, not too much to ask for especially when we were willing to pay.

Fine, We'll go to see the other guesthouse. This time we left all our luggage at Sterazade and followed the bellguy to the 2nd guesthouse. Before we even walked in, we said NO. This place looked rat infested and gross. We looked anyway at a small dingy room with plaster peeling off the walls again no bathroom and no heat. What didn't these guys undestand.

I said NO, NO, NO, I was pretty pissed, felt like we were getting the run around. The guy said I have one more place. We followed him yet again to another dive. Finally I said, What don't you understand about a bathroom. The owner of the last place yelled to me and Robin, " YOu conme back here! You stay here!. Robin and I just looked at each other. Was this guy shitting me-ordering us to return to that riad. I don't think so. I whipped around and said, " NO, NO THANK YOU , We will not stay here."! He said STOP! I turned around again, walked over and said, Do not order me! On the way back to Sterazade Robin grabs me and says" did you hear what that guy just said to me?" I hadn't and it was a good thing because I would have gone ballistic on him. Let's just say some scumbag made a disgusting sexual remark to Robin. She was pretty rattled, being tired and all plus it had been a while since she checked her sugar or since we ate and she was probably low.

Completely fed up Robin and I return to Sterazade. While I am arguing with the guy Robin is off to find Grahamn. She asks where room #3 is. The guy says it's not available, she says I know my friends are there, where is it. Next thing I know I'm getting into it with this guy for giving us the run around and I hear Robin crying- she was really frustrated. She had found Lynze and Graham and thank god for those two.

Only knowing them 3 days they were genuinly upset and came with us to find a plce to stay. It was interesting because as soon as we had Graham by our side (and I don't know if it was the Mohawk or the fact he was male) We seemed to get better help.

L & G walked us around the corner to a riad their friend had stayed at. No vacancy. Right around another short corner was another one he knew of from a friend. The name Riad Hamza- ou Oasis in the Medina.

Uggh....what a nightmare....but it sounds like you finally found someplace nice to stay.

Yes, twas a nightmare.

But, it got better. Riad Hamza

http://www.riad-hamza.com/

is a beautiful small riad located close to the main square. All mosaiced on the inside I loved it. We paid 500 D (60 us) p/night for suite on the top floor. Even though there was only 1 bed it was a king and at that point we had given up on the 2 beds. Our room had heat, a bathroom, tv and minibar( which was good so Robin could store her insulin). We checked in Graham helped us up w/ ou luggage and the 4 of us left to meet Matt & Nick.

The restaurant Le Marrakech, located on the side of the square was great. Upstairs, dining gave a view of the square. It was a Monday night at 11:00 pm and the place was packed. Matt and Nick were relieved to see us. They thought we had blown them off.We were an hour or more late. We explained what happened, they had already ordered. I think that place was really busy because they served alchohol. We ordered some beers and a few bottles of wine. We each got a mixed salad which was basically a bunch of small bowls with beans, beets, olives etc. L & G got chicken tangine LOL and Robin and I split some chicken pastry thing that was really good. We all shared a crepe type dessert. It was a wonderful dinner and we would be saying goodbye to our new friends who all would be going to Essouria the next day, although not together.The bill came and Graham and Matt grabbed it and said people don't pay for dinner on their birthday- that's just how it is. I couldn't believe it, it wasn't cheap with all the wine. Robin and the 2 couples treated, would not take no for an answer. Those 4 we met were truely amazingly nice and generous people who I think I've said before will remain friends with.

After a few group photos we said our goodbyes. Lynze and Graham walked Robin and I back to our riad. We thanked them again and gave an open invitation to stay with either of us in New York( I think they will come).

I'll tell you after sleeping in a freezing kasbah with pillows filled with rocks and on the floor of a tent in the desert a heated room with a proper bed never felt so good.

Next up- get out your pads to take notes:
IF SOUK SHOPPING WAS AN OLYMPIC SPORT..............

Happy to hear you finally found a nice riad. None of the Riads we are planning on staying at are super cheap, and I keep thinking - couldn't we do this cheaper? But frankly, your report is confirming that we are making the right decision. Travelling with our kids (ages 11 and 14) we need to be sure we are staying in good places.

Your fellow travellers sound awesome!! Glad to hear you had a different experience than the one in the movie "Babel".

Can't wait for the souk shopping report!!

laartista, I must confess while reading your report is fun, I don't think I can deal with so much excitement (of the unexpected kind) on a vacation! And I am a guy!

I really am impressed by you and Robin for actually enjoying it and wanting to go back there. Seriously..., I am.

Interesting you mention Babel jgg- We purposely did not see it before our trip knowing it took place in Morocco. I will see it now though. Yeah, if wanting to stay in a riad, for sure book before going, they are hard to find even when you know what you are looking for.

Comfy- The thing is- I like my vacations a bit whacked- makes it more of an adventure. Robin's the same way which is what makes her a great travel friend. I'm not the type of girl who would be happy lying on a beach somewhere for a few weeks. So even though somewhat stressful at times- AWESOME and yes, looking at going back memorial day

My dear artiste, there are many shades between lying on the beach for a few weeks and Morocco but yes, I get you. Although I just might be slightly past your age group, I still do occasionally think of trips with the Tuareg (a dear friend is one) but typically "vacate" in States or EU.

Looking forward to your reports.

I have my print button all ready for the notes on Shopping in the Souk!

Day 6- Tuesday

If souk shopping was an olympic sport....Well then Robin and I would be gold medalists. Although, it didn't start out that way. And If I'm to be honest it was pretty much all Robin I was just the wing woman. It might pay for some of you to bring her along on your next trip to Marrakech.

Tuesday morning started with a quick breakfast on the roof top of Riad Hamza nad then out to the souks. We had a game plan, knew what we wanted to buy and had each a pretty hefty budget for shopping. Now some people spend on food, others on hotels, here we decided shopping. The great thing about Robin is her shopping and spending style is just like mine , which I think is important.

Also first, there are a few different souks off the main square. One is the new souk and the vendors are way pushier and not as nice, plus I didn't think the stuff was as good. The old souk is where you want to go.

We had made massage appointments for 5 pm. we would end up cancelling.
Armed with our lists we set off. We read how we would have to bargain and about the hassle. The hassle was not bad at all and the bargaining takes some finesse,and time, patience is key eventually we got so good at it,other tourists were taking notes.

First stop was a leather stall. We had spotted some belts. We also found if you buy multiples in a stall of course the deal will be better. I chose 2 belts and Robin a purse. We attempted our bargaining, got the guy down from 1000 D for all three to 600. We thought we had done well until later when we realized we probably could have gotten them for 300 or 400.

Next stop was an antique type place. My mom had instructed me to get a necklace for my aunt for her B-day. I also spotted a knife for my dad. We were quoted 900 for the necklace and 950 for the knife. Well that was over 200 US and I wasn't spending that. After back and forth with this older man we settled at 900 for the 2. A bit over 100 US. He said we had made a good berber deal and that line would be the centerpiece of our bargaining arsenal.Still I thought things would be cheaper. And they would we just didn't know what we were doing yet.

From stall to stall we went trying different bargaining techniques. By noon we had so many bags we would have to make the first of 4, yes, 4 trips back to the riad to drop off. Even though we were pretty pleased with ourselves and our purchases we found the line we were using of an artist and a flight attendent were not really flying. I mean they know you have at least more money than them. What we found is the tougher you are, the more they appreciate it. Afterall it's a game not only business to them.

These are just MY observations and other people might see different. What we found is that the younger guys, especially those in leather coats or more western clothes were easier to bargain with. Stay away from the really old one they are crotchety and probably for good reason.And always keep smiling as though your having a good time bargaining. This style of shopping is NOT for everyone, but we loved it and found it great fun as a sport.

After our first drop off we stopped to buy my dad an authentic berber robe that zipped up with a hood. The guy started at 1200 D.(150 us) No way. I told him it was for my dad. For Papa it is a good deal, no it isn't for me, back and forth I got it for 500 (60 US). It was of good quality , heavy wiool and cotton. Hey, there may be something to this papa thing, and there we had it our schtik. We were sisters, I was the irresponsible one or good cop and Robin was the one father had put in charge or the bad cop.

Next stop, I spotted 2 ceramic paint brush holders. This would be the toughest deal of the day. We ask how much he says 300 each. Nope, we look at other things. Robin liked these tangines which he had quoted at 350(43 US0 She comes back with 50 I'll give you 50, He says No you're crazy she's like 50 that's it no more.She was tough and got hers for 100(12 US) so then she gets another and then one for me. He was moving on these tangines pretty easy, but still he would not budge on those paint holders. It would take 1 hour and finally we got the 2 paint holders for 300. Robin looked at him and said good berber deal. He laughed, seemed to like that and kissed her cheeks before saying goodbye.

At each stall she got tougher. I would spot what I wanted, ask the price and tell her. She would add in her head all of what we wanted and ask the guy how much. And this is how it went.

TARGET: 2 purses and 4 belts all leather

R: How much for all this?

Salesman takes out calculater-begins adding) 850D ea. prse and 300D ea. belt is 2900D (340 US)

R: 2900 (always w/ a smile- this is important) No, that's not a good berber price! 250 for everything ( motioning w/ her hand)

It was at that point I would usually turn away.Out of embarressment LOL

SM: 250, LOLOLOL NO. No you are crazy. I give a better price 2500 for everything. That's a good price!
R: (laughs) Well, maybe for you but for me I say 300 for everything. She laughs and smiles.

Now the salesman looks at me as for me to help him out some.

Andrea; Don't look at me. She's in charge of the money. Papa knows I'm not responsible. You have to talk to her.
SM: But this one, she is unreasonable- The President must send her to buy the camels( I loved that line LOL)

A: I know, she's a berber woman!
SM: She IS a berber woman!

Robin and the salesman would go back and forth, He'd come down 300-400 D she'd come up 10-20D

At around 1000 it got tricky. Robin would then say What's your best berber offer?
SM:1000D
R: Nope, I'm sorry 600 final or I'm leaving.
SM; 1000
R: come on let's go (and you really do have to be prepared to walk away)
SM: wait miss, what is your final, final offer
R: 600, that's it bye, bye with a wave of her hand
SM: 800
R: No, 600
SM: 750
R: No 600 Bye as we walk out
SM: Please, miss I must make some profit 700 final offer- it is a good offer
R: No, 600 Final offer

They go back and forth between 600 and 700 for like 1/2 hour and finally settled at 670.
So our original quote of 2900(340)- was really 670 (80 US) for 2 purses and 4 belts. Now that's a good deal.

Finally at agreed price they shake hands, exchange cheek kisses and all is well in the souk.

Every salesman told Robin she was a berber woman- I would shake my head and agree. That meant she was a good deal maker.

Some of my favorite Robin lines were

" You're a bad Berber( always w/ a smile) didn't your family teach you how to negotiate? LOL They loved that one.

Make me your best Berber Deal!

There are many many others who will give me a better price. They sell this all up and down the rows.( Not so popular with the salesman but worked as a last ditch)

At one place for tangines and ceramics they were stuck at her 400 him 450. Neither would budge. Original quote about 1400. She walks away and comes to me who was petting a cat. I said you didn't get them. Robin said, nope he wouldn't budge. I asked at what price. She said 450. I said what was your final, she said 400. I said, "Robin, we are not going to get that stuff over 6 bucks, come on, She had gotten carried away with her new found bargaining power. She just laughed and said, fine. And with her tail between her legs went back to the guy and shook on 450.He looked at me and repeated the words I had heard so many times that day, she is tough. I said I know, but I told her you gave her a good deal, that's why she came back. He said thank you. That was for 2 large tangines, 3 large ceramic plates, 2 ceramic candle holders and 4 small bowls. Not bad at all.

At some point during the day I decided it would be fun to take pix with the souk salesman. I'll also post prices and pictures of what we bought at the end of the report.

Now at a few places she was thrown out. One old man even said F*** your business. We laughed because it was so bizarre to hear that from a little old man with a cane. Stay away from those

I think one of the reasons we got such good deals was it is the winter, biz is slower.

So- no judgenments please, I'm posting this to be informative, we bought alot of gifts, I had owed my entire family their holiday gifts 2006.

For a total of 1800 US dollars between us we purchased. LOL

7 Tangines
7 Lanterns ( of varying sizes)
8 Ceramic plates Large
4 ceramic bowls
8 leather belts
1 coral/silver belt
6 Misc ceramic, candle holders, vase
3 jeweled, sheathed knives
1 hookah
6 Kaftans
5 pair shoes
10 bags of spices
2 oil paintings
11 pair earings
8 bracelets
7 Fossils
9 sets (12) carved skeweres
12 Leather Purses ( I know, it's a sickness)
6 assorted musical instruments
20 assorted hands of fatima
14 necklaces
3 puzzles
9 leather camel toys
and 1 wood inlay soccar ball

We did not get rugs or furniture- next time

We are now attending shopaholics anonymous meetings LOL

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...4ay1p&Ux=1

Love it! That's a ton of stuff. I think you guys did great.

I love bargaining. Last May on out trip to Thailand I became the queen of bargaining. Dh loved it! He was the one laughing and was embarrased.I think I'm pretty good, we got so many great deals. I did exactly how you explained it. A smile is always good and at the end always attempt to walk away, most of the time it works =) It's a game and I love it!

One question did you have any trouble (due to luggage limits) bringing all of that back?

I love this trip report like crazy!

You guys scored -- very impressive.

Bravo Laartista! What a wonderful trip report! Was originally searching for info on Spain (Sevilla, Valencia, etc) and came upon this..and now you have me hooked!

I posted a new thread for my inquiry (WTnow, I put your name on the title because I wanted to email you directly if possible) but it quickly got buried deep under after only 5 minutes.

But Laartista--you have a gift for story-telling. Your narratives and commentaries are hilarious! I love that you even have pictures. I feel I know Robin and the gang, and as if I was reading some novel, was waiting for something to happen with "Bad Boy Berber!"--hahahahaha!

You have suspense, intrigue, mystery and s.... shopping!!! Thanks for sharing so much of yourself with all of us!

You definitely must start your own blog with all your great trip reports--who knows, make some money (from advertisers) for your next sojourn!


Vicki

ps. Please tell Robin I noticed her nice white smile. (and also the beautiful teacup beside her at your rooftop breakfast--I collect teacups!)

laartista:

One of the best reports I've ever read on these pages....you guys had a grand time...and it was so reminiscent of our trips to Maroc...the thrill of adventure seems to come out of everyone as they travel this exotic land. Thank you, thank you!
Happy travels. Try Turkey next...you'll love it!

thanks you guys- so nice

Tower, been to Istanbul- really like it but yet to get to the rest of Turkey

Belle, we did have have a few problems w/ the weight restrictions and luggage. I get into it more later on

Vicki- passed your compliment onto Robin and she smiled and said thanks

next up- finishing the souks and the ever so touristy Chez Ali

Can't wait to hear the rest -- I agree with Vicki, you may have to start your own blog...you definitely have a talent for making your writing come alive for the reader. Thanks so much!