Rach-I know those potatos are delic. We had them again the next night with something like sour cream

Clifton- Please do post back on Essaouria. I don't know if it will be beach weather when ypu are there but I am curious about the bathing suit guidelines. Even though it was cold on our trip I heard it is best to dress conservatively and I'm not sure if that applies to the beach or not-maybe stupid but I am curious, anyway have a great time

Floy- Thank you so much for the compliment. And I agree with your advice to Comfy, even if just a few days in Marrakech. Easyjet just started flying direct from Madrid this week- so cheap flights.

Comfy- go if you can, seems you've been to India, and I will pick your brain when I'm ready to go there- I think you would like Morocco. NO camel neccessary. I will ride a camel again!

Day 9- Our second and last day in Valencia

Friday was really overcast,chilly and set to rain. We got up early so we could get a full day in. Our first stop would be the Sendra store that we had travelled there for. Scratch that we actually stopped at a small boutique first where I picked up a white leather bomber jacket(REBEJAS!!)

Toward the Bull ring we walked following our map. Located on C. Sueca we walked down Alcoy which turns into Sueca. The excitement was building- all eyes out to spot the Sendra sign. As we approach the cross street of Dania which is where it is, Robin picks up here pace. Then she shouts, " I SEE IT, IT"S HERE!!! The girl literally jumped up and down as if she had won the boot lottery. I had warned her that we might be disappointed and not to get her hopes up but she could not contain herself. I have to admit, I too was hopeful and pretty psyched.

There it was, what we had come to Valencia for, The Sendra Boot store. We walk in and our glee turns to boot despair.

A tiny little shop, not an outlet and NO REBAJAS! Damn. Bummer! Well we look around anyway. They had mostly the western boots and I for one did not need aniother pair of cowboy boots especially at 300-500 a pop. We actually stayed about an hour and Robin ended up buying the same pair she had gotten in Amsterdam in a darker color. I left empty handed. The sales girl did say there was another smaller Sendra store off of Colon(smaller? how can that be) We took the address.

Now I know everyone talks about the shoes in Spain. And even though I bought 2 pairs of boots, 1 in Valencia and 1 in Madrid, I gotta tell you I don't think the shoe selection in Spain is all that. I think they export great shoes but alot of the shoes are not great quality. I think, IMO the best shoe stores are in Amsterdam. Dr. Adams for one. Anyhoo enough of the shoe rant.

We were on our way that day to the Arts and Science park and the Aquarium. It would take us 4 hours to get there. Why? In a word, actually 2 words Rebejas and Zara. They have Zara in the states but it is way cheaper in Spain and their spring line is really cute. A bunch of shopping down the stores on Colon brings us once again to the Sea Doorway, a beautiful archway and down into the Turia riverbed which is now a park. We walk all the way to the aquarium.

On a nice day this would have been a fine walk, but it was cold and starting to drizzle and it is pretty far. But,we trek along. Passed the Music Palace and Gulliver Park(which is very cool) and we can finally see the white dome.

Even if you are not into architecture the city of Arts and Science is a sight to behold. I almost cried at it's awesomeness (I think I just pulled a W there,making up a word) Coming from the park as you approach I think the first thing you see is the storm trrooper helmut dome which houses the Palue de Arts (not yet open to the public. Followed by the Hemispheric dome which houses a museum. Surrounded by pools of water and totally futuristic I felt as if I had been transported into the movie Logans Run ( the original w/ Michael York).

It was a long walk there and of course the Aquarium where we were headed was the furthest building. We took a ton of pictures and finally arrive at the L'Oceanografic otherwise known as the largest aquarium in Europe.

We were starved and needed lunch before any thing else. So after buying our tickets which were 20 bucks each we head for the Submarino restaurant. Nope, can't eat there, a private function going on , she sends us to Oceanos. Past the pelicans and other seaside birds we grab some lunch.

Done with lunch we check out the Aquarium. Luckily it wasn't too busy. Seperated into a bunch of dome buildings this place was pretty neat. In one part you walk thru a tunnel and the fish are swimming all around you. We visit the sea lions and the different sections such as tropic and artic. It was fun. The Dolphinarium was closed ( love that name). But the best part was the walruses.

In the Artic section there are beluga whales, walruses and a few dolphins from the dolphinarium. On 2 levels you can watch the animals from above and thru glass below. Robin had gone upstairs and I stopped to watch the walruses downstairs thru the glass. Afterall that's where all the activity was.

Next to me was a group of Italian tourists. Next thing I know they are hooting and hollaring stuff in Italian and pointing to the window. Oh my, it's a walrus menage-a tois. No joke. One male walrus and 2 females. He would grab a female with his mitty fins and started doing her. LOL All the while commentary from the Italian peanut gallery. I yell up to Robin, hey get down here, walruses having sex. I felt like a five year old. She said really and ran down.

The Italians were snapping pictures as that male walrus went from one female to the other and back to the first. Fascinating it was. I swear, at one point that male walrus looked directly at us while still humping that female as someone snapped a photo. I felt bad for him, looked just like an embarrassed Wilford Brimley ( smuckers) and I just couldn't bring myself to take a picture of his private moment. We did watch though LOL.

Alright it was about 5 we had enough of the Auarium and wanted to get down to the beach.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...nyimd&Ux=1

laartista, Thanks. Yes, I can help with your India plans. If and when you are ready for it, give a heads up.

Now we had asked about the best way to get to the port/ beach area at the aquarium and quite frankly the woman lost us at the second bus. It was drizzly and cold and we just wanted a taxi. Note, not so easy outside the aquarium. Robin would eventually stand in the middle of the road to flag one down.

While waiting for the taxi Robin starts to poke fun at my language, or lack thereof, skills. She says , "you know what's funny? You say Habla Englais and when the say No, you say Parla Italiano. It's Parle Vous Italiano." I'm like, "no ,it's Parla Italiano and maybe they speak Italian which I know more of." She says, " And, it's Hablas Englais", I say, " no, it's Habla Englais." She says," well anyway, then you just go into English '. She was getting a real kick out of this. I said, " well you don't speak Spanish either." She said, " I speak more than you.' Well I don't know about that. She said," I've taken Spanish" ,I said well so did I , "Esta Suzanna en casa?" We laugh.

When we get in the taxi I ask, " Habla Englais? He says no, so I look at Robin and say, O.K. expert do your stuff tell him we want to go to the port/ beach where Americas Cup is. LOL psych! . She starts in Spanish and then nada! She laughs, F you, she says. Whatever, we need to pull out the map, because as it is ,neither one of speaks Spanish.

We tell the taxi driver we want to go to the port , the Americas Cup is there this year and we thought there
might be something to see. Well there wasn't! He took us to a gigantic hanger like structure, with nothing going on. No, we don't want to go here. I suppose in a few more months there will be alot going on but not then, just a bunch of construction.

We ask if there is an area by the beach with restaurants and such. He drops us by Hotel Neptune which I had looked at to stay, glad we didn't it's really out of the way from most sights. There at the cold windy beach, nothing open except for 1 or 2 cafe/ bars. Robin says lets walk down to the water. I had made the mistake of wearing a canvas jacket instead of my coat and was too cold. I said go ahead , I'll watch LOL. I stood shivering thinking she is nuts. I would guess during warmer months this area is hopping but not that day. We pop into a bar to warm up and decide on where to go next.

A beachy bar, the kind that in season probably houses too many drunk 20 somethings in barely any clothes, today just me and Robin, 3 business people in suits and 1 very, very handsome bartender. So good-looking in fact we thought lets have a drink and sightsee here. I ask if they have coffee he says chocolate with coffee in it. O.K. 2 please. Yep, melted chocolate in a cup, nothing like it on a cold day or on any day for that matter.

There we sat eating our chocolate drink with a spoon and each googling the bartender. Hey, we are both single, a little harmless flirting never hurt anyone. After 1/2 we were bored so on to find another taxi to take us back to the hotel. It was around 6:30 or so.

We get a taxi but he does not know our hotel, we tell him by the bull ring, and then Robin directs him from there. We get out and decide to get a starbucks and walk around Plaza del Ayuntamiento, before heading back to the internet cafe. We needed the train times for the trip back to Madrid the next day. 7am 0r 11 am, we opt to be realistic and take the 11.

Resting in our room and it's about 8:15 pm and Robin says, "hey want to run over to the other Sendra store it's right near here. Sure, lets go.

We spend another hour at Sendra. They did have Rebejas at this location, but I was shopped out. We did find out Sendra boots will custom make any pair for a 20% upcharge. Good to know. We were tired, had to travel the next day, dinner was great at the tapas bar from the night before so we opt to go there.

This night we sat downstairs, Fabio greeted us, more Sangria, a bunch of open faced mini sandwiches, an order of potatos and some meatballs and we are set. At the end of the meal they count our toothpicks about 25 Us later we are full and off to pack for the next day.

Final thoughts on Valencia

It is a wonderful city. I really enjoyed my time there and would recommend a visit to anyone. I am sorry I never made it to the Fallas museum. Gives me a resaon to return maybe for the Fallas Festival.

Next-Back to Madrid

I hate to see the report coming to an end, I'm enjoying every installment.

My condolences on the boot shopping in Valencia but it sounds like a delightful city -- I'm adding it to my list.

Like you, I'm anxious to return to Morocco and especially want to see Essaouaria. I don't know if you are aware of the Moroccan government's drive to increase tourism, but they have contracted for six large resorts to be built along the Atlantic coast (one has begun a bit south of Casa) and one will be in Essaour--- can never spell that correctly. They are increasing flights from Europe. The goal is to have 10 million tourists by 2010 and I want to see and stay (and shop) in Essa before it changes too much.

I don't know about bathing suits in Essa, but at the hotel pool in Marr. there were many one piece suits, some bikinis and a topless woman standing directly across the pool from me.

Comfy: I second the recommendation to visit Rabat or Fez if you can, both are exotic and interesting in their own way.

Nice report !!

The potatoes are "patatas bravas" and the valencian drink is called "agua de valencia" , it's cava (champagne) with orange juice.

When I began to read the Valencia report and heard about the Sendra boots (I've never heard of them before) I knew you will be a bit dissapointed... It's something like the Manolo's shoes..I have never seen ones on a regular shoes shop Probably they sell them in Madrid or BCN very upscale places..but definitely , they are not everywhere in Spain.

Thanks Lusiah and Kendrina

Ken:
Patatas Bravas-delicious
That drink definitly had no champagne in it. It was a shot drink for after dinner- kind of looked like tequila, pale yellow and was very, very strong. Do you know the name?

Whew.... Pressure pressure, Luisah (and others)! Still thinking.

So, "La", Interesting last couple reports. Do you plan your trips very heavily or do you do stuff in your travels at the spur of the moment? I suspect the latter but you seem to have a lot of fun which is great.

"googling the bartender"? Or "ogling"? After finally learning to spell mo"r"occo (so embarrased about it), is this a new term to consider using?

Ok, waiting for Madrid scenes.

No, I don't know the name right now I don't drink alcohol , hahaha. I know "agua de valencia" because it's very popular there. Maybe it was tequila..it's a very popular "chupito" also. "Chupito" is the liquor served on a tiny glass after dinner (or not) , can be anything the barman wants to put on it

O laartista I love your report! Enjoyed the France one as much! And I like your way of shopping - I also do not mind to drag and carry stuff along - with a picture in my head of how lovely it will look back home. I so much want to have a hand of Fatima - have a lovely book of Morocco and I often look at the pictures and dream of going to Morocco!

With the rest, I am following your report with great pleasure!

Comfy- actually it was oogling LOL
Thanks Chia, and Kend

Day10 Back to Madrid Goodbye Valencia

We got up early Sat. morning even though our train wasn't until 11:20. It was pouring out, raining really hard. A good day to be stuck on a train I guess. We had amassed a bunch of small bags and tried to consolidate but would end up again carrying alot of stuff.

Checkout of the hotel was a nightmare. One girl working the desk and like 30 people in line. Robin mentioned if it was New York there would be a riot. You know how impatient us New Yorkers are. At check out our hotel notified our hotel in Madrid ,another Vincci property ,of opur impending arrival.

Into the rain we go sans umbrella, each holding a handle of the duffle bag, it had gotten much heavier. LOl
We were only about a 5 minute walk from the train station, if that, so we felt stupid calling a taxi. Maybe we should have ,we were soaked by the time we got there. With still an hour til our train we got some munchies and coffee and at 11:15 boarded our train to Madrid for the 3 1/2 hour ride. I slept almost the whole way. Robin messed around with her blackberry.

We arrive in Madrid just before 3pm. The weather was better there, cold but not raining. We get a taxi to the Vincci Centrum hotel where we would be staying. This hotel IMO has a great location, easy walking distance from most of the sights. The hotel itself is small and boutique like and even though the room was tiny with only 1 window to an aii shaft, at 130E a night it was fine. Had a nice bathroom too.

Robin would be leaving the next day and I had reserved a room at the Me hotel in Santa Ana square for 165 E a night. At check in I asked what the rate would be if I stayed at Vincci Centrum and they quoted me 109E. I was already there, why pack and drag myself to the other place the next day when this hotel was perfectly fine. They were ever so nice and called the other hotel to cancel for me.. Hey, that's a saviings of almost 80 US a night. Money that could be spent elsewhere, like on shoes.

After we check in we decided it was late in the day already, we were pooped from running around the last week and a half, we would take it easy and just walk around the city. We chose to head toward the Salmanaca district.

Our hotel was located on Cedaceros street, a short walk from both Gran Via and Plaza del Sol. A quick left out the hotel takes us to Alcala which we would walk up to Salmanaca area. As we approach Plaza de Cibeles we notice there are a shitload of people out and about AND they are almost ALL carrying spanish flags in every size possible. Older elegent ladies in their furs, young families, students. On every corner vendors selling items of Spanish national pride. Walking further on Alcala toward Independence Plaza the crowds are getting bigger and a huge stage with screens are set up in front of the arch. We stop to ask a police woman what is going on.

She says it is a peace rally. I ask against the war. She says no, terorism. I ask because of the ETA bombing at the airport, she seemed suprised I knew, hey I watch the news. Yes, against ETA. Wild, we had seen the results of that bombing upon our arrival to Madrid 10 days ago and now on Robin's last night a rally against it. Sad, but cool to see. Alot of signs saying Zappetaro, Not in my name (in spanish of course). Those Spaniards really know how to get the masses into the street. I had goosebumples, even though it hadn't started yet.

We were hungry, and would stop in 7 or 8 cafes and bars , including the Irish pub with a huge rugby crowd before we could find room to squeeze in for a bite. Seriously, the area was jammed and it seemed everyone in madrid was getting a snack before the rally.

Finally we turn onto Serrano, where we would be shopping and pop into a cafe.
The counters upstairs were too crowded so we head downstairs. A bit more managable ,we squeeze into a corner. Robin's sugar was getting low and she snapped at me something fierce how she needed food. I was scared. She sat at a table while I ordered a quiche and a cheese sandwich to split , 2 cafes and 2 waters. I brought her the water and coffee and we were then yelled at by the counter women that we could not sit there. Why? Don't know, but I wasn't in the mood to argue so we just stood at the counter. She forgot our quiche. I was trying to tell the other counter girl but she kept bringing me another sandwich. Finally, a young couple felt our pain and told her in Spanish that the other woman had forgot our quiche in the microwave. Not the most enjoyable OR relaxing lunch of the trip. We were given a plastic board to take upstairs to pay, we laughed it off and began stroll up Serrano.

Serrano is a really lovely shopping street. Mostly expensive stores, but there was REBEJAS, I love rebejas. I have never bought anything at Adolfo Domingez, but they were having a hell of a sale and picked up an awesome pair of pointy black patent leather ballet flats, plus gloves, I lost mine in the desert. I knew that hotel savings would go to good use.

We continued to walk Serrano for a while, shopping along the way and then turned back and onto Goya, another nice street. As we walked and the sun went down, more and more people were making their way to Independence Square.

Next- One huge rally and guess who got stuck in the middle of it

Oh, yes !! Big demonstrations are a Spanish skill By the way, the one in Madrid against the Irak war had more that three times the people that were in the one you found so think about it as a not so big one !!

The name for the sales is REBAJAS
Glad you enjoy them !!

Google, Ogle, Oogle... Whew!

What is "Zapatero, not in my name"? What do you mean? Was this your first trip to Madrid?

That was written on the signs of the demonstrators. They were against ETA but also against the Government politics. Zapatero is our President.They were trying to negotiate with ETA their finish (some kind of negotiation like the one in Ulster) before the Barajas bombing.And the people (some ETA victims and also people from the party in opposition now, PP) on that rally didn't want the government to negotiate. That's why they said..not in my name.

Thanks Kend for the correction on Rebajas- yes it is very good

Comfy - Zappatero is the Spainish president, I'm not big on Spains politics so I'm not sure about this but I'm guessing it has to do with his stance on ETA and the spanish people are not in agreement with his actions- maybe someone local will pipe in and explain. And, no not my first time to Madrid I was there in 99 for a few days, so it's been a while.

Kendrina thanks for the clarification. I wasn't sure & we posted at the same time. LOL
Do you live there Kend?

Yes, I live in Castellon, 67 km north of Valencia

I know who Zapatero is. Who can forget the bombing that is rightly or wrongly attributed to have brought him to power, the trials for which started just last week or so. I was confused with "not in my name". I guess it means don't vote for me or some such thing.

Near Valencia, eh? A few more reports by "la", and I might start considering a move to some such place

No, the "not in my name" is because here every law or act of the government is made "in the name of the Spanish people" (it's the first article of our Constitution..."the Sovereignity belongs to the Spanish people&quot.

And during all that time I thought Juan Carlos was the king and Zapatero the Prime Minister

hahahah, yes, they are Nice titles, isn't it ?

Prime Minister/ President, whatever, the guy who is in charge works for me.LOL

We call it President, not Prime Minister in Spanish but as laartista says is the guy in charge LOL

Now that I've got somewhat more of a grip on Spanish politics--on with the report....

After walking down Goya we return to serrano and made the mistake of heading right toward Independece Plaza. The crowd was huge. People up against the walls of buildings, from windows, it was packed. We tried to make our way thru the crowd, Robin leading and me holding on to her purse strap. The speakers were talking now from the stage, we were on the back side. I'm not sure who was speaking or what he was saying, but people kept clapping, so I clapped with them, which ended up getting me seperated from Robin. I could see her up ahead but it would take us 45 min. to get 1/4 block. We decided best to take a side street back because the crowd extended all the way down Alcala to the next plaza.

Maybe our side street idea wasn't such a good one. We ended uo overshooting our turn to our hotel and had to ask directions by Plaza de Colon. We back track and finally make it back to the hotel. We asked the front desk guy where to go for tapas and they suggested a street called Principe, said there were a bunch of places there to choose from.

After a quick stop in the room we walk over to Princepe. That street was so gridlocked it reminded me of the Ft. Lauderdale strip back in the spring break days. Very crowded, alot of people out, we spot an Irish bar that says LIVE MUSIC TONITE. We ask the doorman what type of music and he says a U2 tribute band. Well that sounds like fun, what time do they go on. He says first set at 1 am. 1 am, it was only 8:15. The Spanish start their nights late and go right into the morning, I did remember that from my previous trips to Spain.

Next door was a tapas bar, modern looking so we go in. We order a pitcher of Sangria and then ask for English menus, the ones we had were Spanish. Turns out we made a bad choice for eats. This place was like an American tapas with everything from potato skins to chicken wings. Not what we wanted, BUT we stay anyway , order a bunch of fried crap, finish by 9:30 and are so full there is NO way we are making it another 3 1/2 hours to the U2 tribute band(Oneils was the bar)

Knowing we are not making it to 1 am we decide to walk down to Santa Ana Square to check out the hotel I cancelled at The ME Hotel Madrid.

Santa Ana square is hopping and very loud. I guessed it would become even louder as the night wore on. So maybe I made the right choice by not staying there. The Hotel ME was very nice, funky and we pop in to use the restroom and check out the bar. A total scene, to see and be seen. After 10 minutes we left, neither of us felt like drinking and Robin was leaving the next day, a 10 am flight. So we call it a night.

The next morning robin gets up at 6 am , I sleep until 7:30, I would go with her to the airport. I still needed a plane ticket to Lisbion on Tuesday. Nothing like waiting til the last minute. If I couldn't find a cheap flight I would go elsewhere and change my return flight home which left from Lisbon. We left for the airport at 8 am for her 10;30 flight.

We took a taxi to the airport- it was still dark out at 8am and we didn't feel like dealing with public trans. A short ride and the metrer reads 28 E. The driver tells us because it's Sunday it's 42E and shows us some pamphlet in Spanish that we couldn't read. We thought we may be getting ripped off but it was way too early in the morning to argue about it. We pay him, he dropped us at Terminal 4.

Robin was leaving from terminal 2, but all our luggage from Morocco was at the lockers in 4. Plus local airlines, specifically Vueling that I wanted to check for a ticket to Lisbon, terminal 4. As Robin heads for the lockers < I stop at Vueling. 80 E later , I got myself a one way ticket to Lisbon for 8;00 Tuesday morning. Score- great deal considering it was only 48 hours prior.

So, good thing I went to the airport, no way Robin would be able to get all our crap to the other terminal herself. Lugged the stuff onto the shuttle to Terminal 2, grab a cart, pile it up and over to the delta counter. There were a total of 6 bags and one gigantic lantern. Only 2 she could check. This was a problem. She also according to Employee guidlines was allowed 2 carryons. Thankfully the woman at the check-in was super nice. I explained we had went to Morocco and couldn't help ourselves at the souks. Not only did she find it amusing, did the really cute guy checking in beside us. Robin asked if she could sit next to him. They were both flying Biz class. Turns out she sat next to his friend, who was also cute but had nothing on the other guy. Luckily for Robin she met one of the flight attendents before boarding, they said they would work the gate and she would have no problem getting the xtra bags on. And she didn't.

We were sad, we had a great time together, now Robin was off to go home and I ,to venture out on my own.

Next- Sunday, alone but not lonely in Madrid

I'm sorry to say I think the taxi driver asked for too many money. Not a big rip off, but certainly a bit too much. Maybe 10 euros. Take it as a big tip

Kende, I think la more than made up for it with her cheap ticket to Lisbon.

haha, yes, the ticket was cheap for a last minute one !

Thanks for staying with me you guys. Yeah, I lucked out with that plane ticket.

After saying goodbye to Robin it was only about 9:30 am. I grab a cab back to town. My original plan for Sunday was to rest and sleep. I had been battling that ear since day 2 and thought it would be best to rest up. Turns out, after I got home and went the the doc, my ears were full of fluid and I had a bad sinus infection, and it seems on top of it for some reason my allergies were acting up. One z-pack later I've mended the ear and sinuses. The allergies, well they are still a pain.

Anyway, I thought screw the not feeling well, I'm in Madrid. No way I'm sleeping in my hotel room all day. I had asked the front desk the day before if there was a movie theatre that showed films in original language, there was. I forgot where it was so I asked the taxi driver to take me to the English movie theater. He said, "the porno theater? What? The porno theater? Si, and then he gestered with his 2 hands, the circle and the finger. I couldn't stop laughing. Why am I such a magnet for weirdness? LOL, NO, NO PORNO!! Regular movies, IN ENGLISH. There is a theater in town. Oh, he said embarrassed. We both laughed. He said he knew where it was but thought it was closed on Sundays. A quick radio call to someone, he said it was open. He would take me there. Now he only charged me the meter 26E, unlike the driver to the airport with the Sunday upcharge at 42E. Almost 100$ on taxis that morning sucked, but whatever.

The driver drops me right by the Opera metro stop. To my right I see a theater, all gated up. I walk over, this place is definitly not the theater the front desk guy was talking about. Plus it didn't look like it was going to be open any time soon. I stood there in the cold trying to figure out what to do on a Sunday morning in Madrid when I spotted the Starbucks.

Over a cappuccino I look at my map and tried to figure out where I was and where to go. If I walk up Arenal that will bring me back to Plaza del Sol. From there I know my way so I head over. At Plaza del Sol I stop at a newspaper kiosk and pick up some reading material plus a few spanish celebrity rag magazines.The pix are always fun, plus one of them has a section called ARGHHH! which is really funny.

I walk Precados to Plaza Callao where I find a tourist info. kiosk. The girl tells me that althpugh it's Sunday, being the first Sunday of the month most shops will be open. She also tells me where the movie theater is and gives me a pamphlet of showtimes. It was a pretty cold dy and drizzly at times so I walk in and out the shops along Precados andtha paralell street Carmen, back thru palaza del sol and down Carretas to Plaza Jacinto. Just pass the plaza is a street called Doctor Cotezo and Cines Ideal is located there.

Cines Ideal is a a small mutiplex with 9 theaters, each showing a film in original language. That day all ENGLISH! Whoo Hoo. I hadn't been to a movie in a theater in years. I decide on a 4 pm showing of Dreamgirls and go to get some luch. I stop in a very nice reataurant, have a 1/2 roasted chicken with fries in gravy and a salad. Very yummy. Tool around some more before going to buy my ticket.

Seems there is assigned seating. Ticket was about 7E. into the theater , it's 3;30 and just me, all alone in the theater. It never did fill up, mabe another 25 people , all Amewricans and Brits, I could hear each one talking while looking for their seat numbers. to one side,One seat between me and 2 Britsh girls, and on the other one seat between me and a mom and 3 10 year olds. Then in a totally open theater a super sneery American woman sits in the seat that seperates me and the 10 year old. She was hogging the arm rest and I was wishing she'd move. I ask the 2 Brits if they could watch my bag as I head to the snack stand.

At this theater they had hot fresh kettlecorn popcorn. I love that! Got a big tub and a diet coke and haed back to me seat. Now the thing about kettle corn is it is much louder than average popcorn, so not really my fault I was crunching. That sneery woman shot me a look to kill and moved her seatr. Me and the 10 year old looked at each other and started to giggle. seems the little girl didn't care much fot the woman either.

So I really liked Dreamgirls, very entertaining and the perfect way to spend an afternoon. Afterwards I took a walk up and down Gran via before heading back to the hotel. It was only about 7:30, but I decided to order some room service and turn in early.

The next day I would check out the museums.

To all those , I hit the button before proofreading so I am sure there are more typos and grammatical errors than usual. Sorry.

Great stuff, as always. And good job on the flight to Lisbon on such short notice!!!

Thanks Rach

Day 12

I woke up that Monday morning feeling absolutely crappy. So I got a late start. My whole face hurt and it sucked! After popping an Allegra and some nurofen, plus some afrin nose spray, I had numbed the pain sufficiently enough to head out. Another bad weather day with some rain may have contributed to the problems. It was at this point I started the inner debate with myself on whether to go home early or not. I had never, ever cut a trip short, but it was on my mind to do so all day.

Eight years prior when I was in Madrid, I hit alot of the museums. If it is your first time to Madrid I would suggest not missing the Prado, but since I had been there once, and am not a big fan of that type of art, I decide a second trip is not warranted. A second trip to the Sofia, however, IS. A big fan of late 19th century , early 20th century art, I remember liking the collection there. I also remember it being my 2nd favorite museum behind The Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice. Plus Picasso's Guernica is there. Can't see that too many times, so that's where I go.

From my hotel I take San Jeronimo to Paseo del Prado(which is a lovely street). Stopping along the way to pick up t-shirts for the nieces and nephews. I also stop at a craft gallery with alot of ceramics. I am a sucker for anything ceramic and have a huge collection. I especially like things with symbolic meaning. I was immediately taken by a line called SARGEADELOS. They have a line of token like pieces to ward off different things. I bought a small wall hanging of a clenched fist to ward off those who try to steal love and a piece for around my neck for those that seek love. Still being single I figure I need all the help I can get. LOL

At the end of Paseo del Prado and to the right of Atocha station is The Museo Reina Sofia. Housed in a super modern exterior is a a beautiful old building. A clear elevator takes you to floors 2 and 4 for permanent collections. On floor 2 is an extensive collection of Picasso and his famous Guernica(1937). Also on floor 2, Cubism ( Gris, Leger) Surrealism ( ernst, dali, Dominguez. Dada movement ( above and Miro). All the art I like. I am a happy camper. Floor 4 has some wacky stuff, that I could take or leave. Not a huge fan of super minimalist, but,I look anyway. After a few hours at the Sofia I venture out again.

I walk up Atocha, back to Plaza Mayor and then to Plaza del Sol before heading toward Gran Via. Off of Gran Via is a great street called Fuencarral. Filled with really cool shops, hip boutiques, this street reminds me of one in the village in NYC. Not really shopping ,I do pop in and out of the different stores. Sometimes I just like to walk a city, feel the energy of different streets, watch the people, for me it's a fabulous time.

My phone rings, it's Robin checking in and to let me know how her flight home was. I tell her good thing she went home I'm on this really cool street with fun shops. She could have maxed out her cards here. She laughs ,we chat a while and I go for yet another coffee.

Sipping my cafe I can't decide whether to change my ticket home. Would I regret it. I call Continental to find out what my options are.
This is what was available to me

1) Fly home Wed. to Newark direct flight from Lisbon ( This would give me only 1 day in Lisbon) Lisbon being someplace I've wanted to see for a long time, this option is not a good one. Why fly all the way there for 1 day
2) Stay in Madrid and fly direct to Newark on Wed. ( I really wanted to see Lisbon, not a good option
3) Stay until Sat. for original flight home(What if I started feeling worse) Not a good option
4) Leave from Lisbon thurs. on KLM with a connection in Amsterdam.Hmmm

I told the Continental agent I would think on it and call back later. I wish I could remember where I went and what I did for the rest of the afternoon in Madrid, but for the life of me I cannot. Must have been all the meds, I am completely drawing a blank. I do know I had to stop and buy an extra luggage, AGAIN, to pack a bunch of stuff Robin had left behind. I picked one up on Rebajas for 30E, a 28" roller. I also know I stopped into that Irish bar Oneils for a Hot Toddy and some food at around 7 pm.

I sat at the bar ordered my hot toddy and fish and chips, I was immediatly transported to Dublin. My seat was at the end of the bar where the Irish bartenders and manager gathered. I eaves dropped and listened to them talk about how nutty it was in there the night before for superbowl. They also said, most they made in tips all year, because it was all Americans. Say what you will, but from my own experience bartending, Americans are the best tippers. They said they didn't close up til 6 am, and quite frankly they all did look exhausted.

During dinner I called back Continental. I went for option 4. I figured even though I didn't want to transfer in Amsterdam, at least I would have 2 days to see as much as I could in Lisbon by leaving on Thurs. A 50$ charge for a ticket change and I was all set. I made sure I would still be flying Biz. class since I had used my miles for the upgrade. She said I would so I was all set.

After my fish and chips I head back to the hotel, I had an early flight to Lisbon for the next morning and had to repack.

I schedule a wakeup call and a taxi for the morning, check my email, read for a while before I eventually doze off.

Day 13- Off to Lisbon.

I want to say my flight was at 8am but it might have been 10am. either way it was an early morning for me, I hate early morning. I check out catch a cab to the airport and check in at Vueling. Psyched about my cheapo ticket until, my baggage was checked. Only 1 check in per customer. Ugh, over to the other counter to pay an additional 40E or something like that and back to the kiosk to check my bags.

The flight was not that full and only an hour to Lisbon. I was worried about my ears, so took a few extra sniffs of afrin-it helps. Upon arrival in Lisbon it was a bit chilly and overcast. I was suprised there was no passport control. I never was stamped or passed thru any type of official entry point. I thought this was odd, maybe a EU thing, but not something I had experienced at any other airport. I get my bags from baggage claim and out to catch a taxi.

To the Sofitel, please. I get a quick lesson in Potuguese from the driver( I will talk to anyone and everyone) none of which I remembered and he drops me at the Sofitel on Ave. Liberdade. He offers me a tour of Lisbon and the coastal towns plus Sintra for a mear 200 Euro. LOL, Thanks, but no, I'll pass. This would turn out to be an excellent location for me.

I had got my room at the Sofitel for 129E a night inc. breakfast and free internet . A bargain for that hotel. I really liked it, thought it was lovely, loved my room.Staff was great! Food was yummy. The bed was most comfortable of the entire trip. At check in, turns out I had prepaid 1 night, which I had forgotten, score extra cash. In my room I settle in and take a few more nurofen. Ears were popping something awful from the flight. With no one to complain to, I suffer in silence and pretend I feel fine for the next few days. I order a pot of coffee to the room. Get out my map and plan my day. It was only around 11:00 am. so I had the whole day in front of me.

I decide to start out with a walk to Baixa area and then to the castle to start. It was extremely cloudy and quite chilly but that in no way detracted from the beauty of the city of Lisbon. Absolutely gorgeous in my opinion. It was love at first sight and I was already regretting my decision to change my flight.

I have got to do some work- will finish later

I think I've been to that irish Bar in Madrid. They were showing soccer on one large screen and bullfighting on the other when we were there. It's near the Plaza Mayor, right? I was in Lisbon briefly in 1997 and I was sick when I was there as well and had to cut my trip short, which I've never done before or since. I have to go back there - I ended up being there for a day at the end of a long bike trip through Spain & Portugal.

You must still be recovering from from the cold/flu you had -- it sounds awful.

What's a toddy?

Lisbon is great...my favourite city after London

Really, Kende?! London then Lisbon? Not Madrid, Barcelona, Seville, etc etc?

Comfy- a Hot Toddy is usually made with whisky. Good for sore throats, allergies and colds. Grandma made them. In a mug or irish coffee type glass usually sugar, lemon, a lttle honey, shot of whisky( some people like brandy) and topped with boiling water. Delicious and good for ya!

Kend- I can see why Lisbon would be afavorite, and you are lucky much closer than I am.

Rach- Def. get back to Lisbon, I plan on it. Where in Portugal di you bike? And yes, when I came home ended up with a super bad cold ontop of everything else. But I am on the mend. Oh, and that Irish bar was actually right down the street from Plaza Santa Ana. So not far from Mayor I guess.

I leave aside my own country !!! It's not about beauty for me, it's a feeling I have when I say to myself "I could live in this place". Of course, I have that feeling here in Spain quite easily...but then it doesn't look anything special to me, it's a short move !! But, in any case..Barcelona comes third

Hi lartista, that is exactly what my father gave me when I was growing up whenever I got a cold with a sore throat. And it worked! Imagine a Hot Toddy wouldn't be PC for children now.

I call it an Irish Tea (Dubliners call it too).
Kend, I'm going to propose you to Lisbon's honorary citizen
My top 3 of European cities are Paris, Barcelona and Lisbon.

Hi La,

Back in 1997 we started in Santiago de Compostela, took a train through Galicia to Tuy and then biked down into Oporto. Then biked down into Obidos (great town with ramparts) stopping in the National Park, by the beach, etc... Then we took a train into Lisbon, but I had some sort or stomach thing by then and (as I mentioned, I've never cut a trip short) went home a few days early since I was sooo sick.

And I think the bar I was in was near the Plaza Ana. I loved hanging out with a beer in that square.

In Madrid, I also loved the little streets a block or so south of the Plaza Mayor. Had great dinners and tapas over there, and very local.