Jan. would be our time frame for visiting. We intend to go for more than just Sapa itself, which I've heard can be rather a letdown. We plan to visit markets and do some trekking. But, I've read that weather in Jan. can be a big crapshoot. It can be beautiful and sunny or cold, wet and miserable. This is the only reason that I am having some qualms about the trip north to the mountains (we'd be doing 3 full days in the north). We're people who don't need pampering or luxury, and we typically do a lot of active, outdoorsy things. Plus, we're very interested in learning more about other cultures and seeing how people live.

But, in order to visit this area, we are skipping all of central Vietnam and will miss out on Hoi An and Hue. They both sound nice in their own ways. But, we're not shoppers, and Hoi An seems to involve a lot of shopping. Nor, do we just want to sit around and relax in a quaint town. Hue sounds interesting in many ways, but Jan. can still have quite a bit of rain as I understand. It seems to me this would take some of the appeal away of taking a boat tour to the tombs or renting a bike to cycle around the town. These are some of the reasons we currently have decided to give these areas a pass in favor of the northern mountains.

But, I'm obviously having some second thoughts based on weather concerns for the mountains. This is why I'm wondering if anyone has regretted the time and energy spent in visiting the northern mountains. All responses are greatly appreciated.

Looks a bit wet in Lao Cai for the next 10 days according to the forecast at weather.yahoo.com Highs in low 70s, lows in the mid-50s.

Even rainier in Hue, but warmer.

Better weather in Hanoi than in either of the above.

julies -
see my comments on an earlier thread:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=27
It really is pot luck with the weather!

I just spent a few days in Sapa in November and found it to be beautiful. I rented a motorbike and explored on my own for a couple of days. If I hadn't done that I think I would have been bored with just spending the time in Sapa.

It is VERY beautiful! Rolling hills with rice fields, clouds rolling in and out and the people are very friendly.

If you are into night life this place will not be for you. Our hotel locked its doors at 11:00 sharp.

There are some very good restaurants, my favorite being Baguette and Chocolate. They employ disadvantaged youth in order to provide hands on training and the opportunity for them to earn a living. The food is amazing!

I will work on uploading my photos to my website today and post here when I have them up and running. I have been procrastinating that task.

Cheers!

Mrwnnfrl--

Lao Cai is the closest weather station report I can check, right? My problem is that what with the logistics of our trip I need to make a decision now which is about 10 days ahead of the time we'd actually be visiting. It's one of those trips where one thing is predicated on another.

Crellston--

I think your link goes to this thread.

Eurotraveller--

I assume you had good weather for your motorbike trip. I know we'll like the area, it is just the weather in Jan. that I am worried about. Did you find the weather in other places in the area to be significantly better? I keep hearing that Sapa has the worst weather of all. Are you usually a motorbike rider, or was this something new to you? How were the roads? What types of places did you explore and how did you find them? Did you use a map or did you just take off? Where did you rent your motorbike from, and for how much? Were there helmets? I am curious because my husband owned a motorcycle 35 years ago and hasn't ridden once since but assures me it's a skill you don't forget. Did you do any trekking to the minority villages?

Thanks to all.

Well, the weather was definitely cooler than any other place I have been in SE Asia!

The guy I rented the motorbike from had a rough map that he loaned me while I rode.

I was an avid dirt bike rider in my late teens and early twenties and I owned a motor scooter as well. I had not ridden in about 20 years but felt very comfortable getting back on the bike.

I didn't get a helmut (I know, shame on me) but if I had pushed for one I am sure it would have been arranged. The traffic was VERY light and my bike was only a 125cc.

The roads vary greatly. Some were pretty decent, especailly the one going over the highest pass in Vietnam. There were a few places along that route that were a bit rough but not bad.

I did a trip to Ban Ho on my second day riding. That trip was a big challenge! I spoke with many people who had attempted to go but turned back because the roads were bad. had I not been an experienced dirt bike rider in the past I would not have pushed on.

The scenery was really spectacular and the people I passed along the way were very friendly. Everyone appeared to be pleasantly surprised to see a blond lady riding around solo. Lots of double takes!

One day I did a trek to some neighboring villages. It was suppose to be a 15k trek but I doubt it was even 10. This was not a highlight for me. The villagers are very accustom to having people pass through. We didn't spend much time interacting with the locals except to fend off their incessant calls of "buy from me, buy from me!".

My opinion of the village trek experience may be clouded because I had just spent 4 nights in a very rural village in Northwestern Laos that was 6 hours up the Mekong from Luang Prabang and a nearly 3 hour hike into the jungle. That was about as authentic as it gets!

I recommend you arrive in Hanoi, check the weather in Lao Cai and make your decision at that time.

If you spend any time in Hanoi, I highly recommend you contact www.hellohanoi.com! This is an organization made up of students that are looking for cultural exchange and the opportunity to practice their English.

I had read about them on another travel forum and decided to contact them when I arrived in Hanoi. A student named Linh ended up coming to my hotel to tour me around the city. We took a bus to Pottery Village, explored the Old Quarter and then she brought me to her home to meet her mother and grandmother. It was wonderful to have a free city guide and see the inside of a typical Hanoian home!

I paid for Linh's bus fare and lunch and bought her a small gift but that is a small price to pay for such a memorable experience!

After meeting Linh's mom, they invited me over for lunch the following day. Her mom cooked us a delicious lunch! The hospitality they showed me will be a memory I will always cherish.

Sorry for the rant but this was one of the highlights of my time in Vietnam.

Cheers!

Since I have been home I have been in contact with Linh. I am sure we will remain friends forever! What a great experience this was for me!

A correction on the website I posted. It is www.hellohanoi.org. not .com.

Eurotraveller--

Thanks much. Sounds like we have similar interests in many things. Two years ago we spent New Year's Eve in an ecotourism resort n a Mayan village in the Yucatan. HelloHanoi also sounds right up my alley. I teach at a community college and sometimes teach the ESL sections, so I'd love to meet some real Vietnamese.

As far as Sapa and the north I was particularly interested in your comments about the trekking to the village where all people wanted to do was sell you something. I'm leery of this & I know we wouldn't enjoy being constantly hounded. I'm assuming you took the overnight train up north. How long prior to leaving for Lao Cai did you purchase your train tickets?

Julies, the Mayan experience sounds great!

The trip I did to the remote village was not organized through any group. I had met a 17 year old boy who had been a novice (before one can become a monk they must do 5 years as a novice)in Luang Prabang since he was 12. He hadn't seen his family since he left the village. I started chatting with him and he asked if I wanted to visit his village. I headed up there with him and alady I had met that was from Switzerland. Everything else during my 5 week solo trip paled in comparison to this amazing experience!

I did go by night train and I booked 2 days prior. I didn't sleep a wink in either direction. Ugh!

I would not do the trekking thing from Sapa again. It did not seem like an authentic experience for me. I think there are better places in northern Vietnam to do this from.

As for www.hellohanoi.org, you may even ask Linh about the orphanage that cares for children affected by Agent Orange during the Vietnam War. I wish I would have known about it while I was in Hanoi because I would have gone in a heart beat. Linh told me about her experience there after I returned home.

My photos of Hanoi and Sapa are loaded up, along with others I took in Thailand and Laos during my 5 week solo trip. Many are of the village I stayed in. You can view them here:

www.windjammer.smugmug.com

Feel free to ask more questions!

Cheers!