Decorated in bright colors, Bajío attracts Mexican families and is run by vivacious Carmen "Titita" Ramírez -- a culinary expert who has been featured in various U.S. food magazines. The labor-intensive 30-ingredient mole de Xico is a favorite; also excellent are empanadas de plátano rellenos de frijol (tortilla turnovers filled with bananas and beans) and carnitas (roast pork). You may have to go a little off the beaten track to get here, but it's worth it.
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