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So many questions about Northface Lodge in Denali

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So many questions about Northface Lodge in Denali

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Old Jun 20th, 2008, 06:11 AM
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So many questions about Northface Lodge in Denali

I'm staying there for 4 nights in August. Before I get on the bus how far is it to the place where I have to park my car? Is this secured parking? I'll have to leave lots of stuff in the car including my laptop.

Can someone tell me how activities are organized? Are there hikes at various level of difficulties? How many people usually attend each hike? In what area of the park do you hike? Do you travel by bus? Do you need to sign up for these hikes or just show up in the morning? Are there other hikes or any activities later in the day? Is there a chance to hike on your own? What do you do if is pouring rain? Are there coin operated washers and dryers? Trying to figure out how much clothes to bring for 4 days. If it rains and everything gets wet and no place to wash and dry. Is there a coffee pot in a room to boil a water for a tea? Are there bikes available? Where one bikes/take walks before or after dinner from the lodge? Did you enjoy food in this lodge? I think mosquitoes are gone by then but what about those little nasty flies sometimes get to me in Alaska. Any additional information?
Thanks for your help
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Old Jun 20th, 2008, 08:46 AM
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Been to NFL a couple of times and will be back there soon (actually at nearby Camp Denali, owned by the same folks). You have a LOT of Q's but I'll give it a shot ...

Before I get on the bus how far is it to the place where I have to park my car?

You can drive to where you meet the bus (at the train depot) and hand over your gear (look for their blue-white busses). You park (at least in the past) at the campground parking lot, I think it's Riley Creek campground. There is a shuttle to take you back to the train station every 15 min or so, or you can walk it in about 15 minutes. I always walk unless it's raining.

Is this secured parking?

No.

I'll have to leave lots of stuff in the car including my laptop.

We've left stuff in the car for 11 days before and yet to have a problem ... for sure hide the laptop and other valuables or take it with you ... there is electricity in the rooms at North Face so why wouldn't you take the laptop?

Can someone tell me how activities are organized?

Each evening after dinner they take a show of hands to see how many want to do various activities the next day, typically 'photo bus' or 'hard hike' or 'easy hike' or 'naturalist foray' etc, maybe half a dozen organized group things and 3-4 individual things you can do on your own (canoeing Wonder Lake, mountain biking, fishing for grayling in Moose Creek, whatever). They group these with people from Camp Denali. So typically there are 2-3 busses and 2-3 smaller vans heading out the next morning arranged by group.

Are there hikes at various level of difficulties?

Yes, usually three choices.

How many people usually attend each hike?

Depends entirely on the wishes of the people who are there that week ... from past trips 7-8 would be a lot in one group, several 2-4 sized-groups, sometimes no one volunteers for the 'strenuous' hike This is in the fall when most of us are there for photography, maybe more hikers earlier in the summer.

In what area of the park do you hike?

Usually the first day they stay fairly close to Wonder Lake (~ mile 86), 2nd day they go back to the Highway Pass area (~ mile 62-64) and the easy hikes are in the open tundra, the harder ones climb up the mountains. If you're on the 4 day tour instead of 3 then you'd hike a different area that extra day. If staying a week then on the xfer day you can pretty much go anywhere.

Do you travel by bus?

Bus or small van, depending on the size of the sign-up.

Do you need to sign up for these hikes or just show up in the morning?

Show of hands the previous evening.

Are there other hikes or any activities later in the day?

Yes.

Is there a chance to hike on your own?

Sure, there are several nice hikes near the lodge ... it's safer if you are in a group of four but you can hike alone if you wish. You should be very bear-savvy if you do this ... I do it in fairly open ground but I don't feel comfy doing it in much brush because of the chances of spooking a grizz though.

What do you do if is pouring rain?

Some sit by the fire and drink hot drinks, others go out and do their daily hike/bike/whatever and get wet. Your choice. Before our second trip we bought really good Gore-Tex raingear and now we just go out when it rains.

Are there coin operated washers and dryers?

At the campground near the entrance there's a laundromat. Nothing like this at NFL. You're only there a few days.

Is there a coffee pot in a room to boil a water for a tea?

In the main dining room - assembly room there is always hot water, tea bags, coffee and hot chocolate available.

Are there bikes available?

Yes, they have a dozen or so nice mountain bikes and helmets. One thing you can do is take an early bus out to Eielson or where ever, with the bike stored on top or in back, then when the group wants to head back you can just take the bike and ride back leisurely ... it's about 26 miles from Eielson to the Lodge and a very enjoyable ride. I've done this many times.

Where one bikes/take walks before or after dinner from the lodge?

You can bike FROM the lodge but it's a fair bit of uphill biking to get to the level areas, so it's simpler to ride the bus and then bike back, but you can surely bike any time of the day.

Did you enjoy food in this lodge?

Excellent dinners, near-gourmet quality. Lunch is typically a sandwich and trail-mix in a paper bag.

I think mosquitoes are gone by then but what about those little nasty flies sometimes get to me in Alaska.

We are usually there late-August and early-Sept and have seen few mosquitos. One warm year there were some tiny white gnats near Wonder Lake but they don't bite. Wouldn't worry about bugs too much.

Any additional information?

Taking a bike equals freedom Go for it ...

You should have a great time in August, maybe we'll see you there.

Bill
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Old Jun 20th, 2008, 12:14 PM
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Bill_H, your answers are very generous. Thank you so much. Now I feel like I'm almost ready. You know, you made me think about bringing my loptop with me, I'll do that and plenty of clothes since there is no way to dry them. I promise, this my last set of questions. Do you bring a tripod with you? I have a spotting scope so if I decide to not leave it in the car but take it with me to the lodge I could use the tripod for the scope and my Nikon. Should I bring my scope and tripod? What do you think? I usually carry our scope and tripod for birding. I'm at the lodge before the photography workshop starts. It would be a pleasure to see you there. My husband and are at the lodge for 4 days, Monday to Friday. Are you staying for a whole week? I just couldn't fit more days at the lodge to our itinerary between bear watching in Katmai and then one week in the cabin in the bush. Maybe next year. Camp Denali was our first choice but fully booked.
Thank you again for all your help. You're really wonderful.
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Old Jun 20th, 2008, 01:39 PM
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Hi Maps,

Glad I could be of help ...

Do you bring a tripod with you?

Yes, we bring heavy tripods for the camera gear. The bikes have a flat platform on the back above the wheel and they have bungee cords, so we lay the tripods (in a soft case) on the back of the bikes and secure with a bungee and we're ready to ride. We carry camera gear on our backs in a pack ... coast downhill, pedal on level ground, walk slowly uphill to avoid overheating.

I could use the tripod for the scope and my Nikon. Should I bring my scope and tripod?

I would definitely bring them ... there's plenty of times when I just sit and glass with binocs and usually you can find a bear or caribou or moose if you glass carefully, so having a scope would let you zoom in for a tight look.

I usually carry our scope and tripod for birding

The lodge funds a bird-banding station near North Face and you might enjoy a tour there on a free afternoon. I think they set up mist nets near Moose Creek and seem to band a lot of warblers that time of year ... just ask the lodge manager about this, they like showing it to folks.

Are you staying for a whole week?

We are there for a week, I think just after you leave, sorry. Then off to Katmai for a week ...

One more thing about riding the bikes back from the day trips ... this lets you stop and go off into the tundra or brush where ever you wish ... we've taken some of our best photos doing this, spending quality time alone with caribou or moose, or waiting for the best light on Mt. McKinley while everyone else was eating dinner (they will save you a plate, I've pedaled in as late as 10 PM and they still fed me) ... here are some Denali shots mostly from the early Jurrasic film era and half of them were taken when we were on bikes and alone -- http://www.hiltonphotography.net/ala...nali/index.htm

Bill
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Old Jun 20th, 2008, 01:50 PM
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One last thing .. you asked "What do you do if is pouring rain?"

We've been there I think five times for 7 - 11 days each trip and have never yet had a day where it rained hard all day ... maybe half the days were overcast and maybe half those days we had some drizzly rain sometime during the day, but nothing really torrential.

The lodge has LL Bean pac-boots you can wear, these have rubberized bottoms up to the ankles, then heavy leather on top, so if it's wet out just borrow a pair of these and your feet will keep dry. If you have quality breathable rain coat and pants (Gore-Tex is best) then your clothes shouldn't get wet, even if you're out all day.

So prepare for drizzly days but I wouldn't worry too much about really heavy rains that time of year. We've had snow several times, once so heavy they shut down the park roads and we were late getting out, but usually the weather is crisp and enjoyable that time of year.

Bill
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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 05:09 AM
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Bill your photos are spectacular. Thank you for directing me to your website. I'll be waiting to review tips you're planning to post there for Denali wildlife watchers and photographers. I'm not a professional photographer so, unlike thousands of travelers with a digital cameras who consider themselves at least semi-professionals, I share my photography only with friends and family although I think I do a pretty good job.
Anyway, I looked at your other photos too. It is hard to resist not to check them out since I knew they would bring back many memories. We too visited Kenya and Tanzania several times. All your photos are fantastic. Topi on the top of a mound, two Cheetahs, Lilac-breasted Roller. Were we on the same safari in Kenya? We traveled independently not with a group. So many beautiful animals, so many colorful birds to see. Did you take a picture of Malakite Kingfisher by any chance? Also did you ever think about photographing Resplendent Quetzal in Central America? I have many pictures but would like to see a real quality photos.

We're planning to go to Pribilof Islands next year. What would be the best time? July or August? This year we just couldn't agree whether to stay 3, 4, 5, 7 days so decided to return to more familiar area.

I appreciate all additional information about Camp Denali/Northface Lodge. I'm so pleased you told me about pac-boots we can wear. I understand there are also walking sticks we can borrow. We are both vivid hikers but walking on tundra is always easier with some extra support. Yes, we have Gore-Tex jackets but I guess have to get pants too. Also your information about a bird-banding station near North Face is simply priceless. I'll talk to the manager of the lodge.
Thank you for every piece of valuable information you provided.
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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 05:53 AM
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Bill, I loved your photos. Just fabulous.
I hope to go to Alaska someday, and I really enjoyed the questions Maps asked, your answers and the photos. Thanks for posting them.
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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 07:09 AM
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thanks from me too. We are planning for Alaska for next year, and considering trying to stay at one of the lodges in the park. Your answers are very helpful, and your photos are gorgeous.

can I impose with a couple more questions?
Why Northface over the other lodges? do you like the location better?

and how long a lens do you use for those photos? must be at least 400? I'm looking to buy a new zoom before next year, and I'm leaning towards a 70-300, because I can get one thats fairly compact. will I be disappointed I didn't get something longer?
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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 01:50 PM
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Hi maps,

Glad you liked the photos ...

Were we on the same safari in Kenya?

We were there in January when the tribes were still killing each other and NO ONE was on the same safari as us At one lodge we were the only guests, at another we were the first guests in 11 days ... not a happy time.

Did you take a picture of Malakite Kingfisher by any chance?

We have only seen one or two of these but were lucky enough to get photos of one fishing ... I still have another 100 or so bird pics to post at http://www.pbase.com/hilton_photography/birds_tz but here's a couple shots I just posted for you of the Malachite and a similar species, the Pygmy, we took this year ... in both instances this was the only time we saw this species ... http://www.hiltonphotography.net/africa/kingfisher/

Also did you ever think about photographing Resplendent Quetzal in Central America?

We are looking into a trip to Costa Rica, I think near Saverge, to photograph this beautiful bird, but haven't set it up yet ...

We're planning to go to Pribilof Islands next year. What would be the best time? July or August?

We were there the third week in July, I think that was about right, maybe a week earlier would be better ... once the seabird's chicks fledge the seabirds all leave the island so the later you go the fewer nesting birds you'll see ... foxes and seals are there all summer I think. We wanted to get shots of puffin chicks but didn't see any come out of the crevices, probably a bit early for that ...

Have a good trip to Denali!

Bill

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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 02:03 PM
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Why Northface over the other lodges? do you like the location better?

Hi china_cat, that's a good question ... first time we went, I think 2000, we researched it carefully and consensus was that North Face and Camp Denali were best for what we wanted, which was access back into the park.

As you probably already found out there are four lodges beyond the west boundary of the park. In around 1980 the park expanded and areas were added to the Preserve, with NFL and CD swept up in this expansion. I think Kantishna Roadhouse is on private land (old mining claims area) and dunno about Denali Backcountry Lodge but they are several miles further down the road so maybe not in the Preserve.

Anyway, because they were now in the Preserve the owners of CD and NFL have limited rights to take day trips back inside the park. The other two lodges can go back to around Wonder Lake, about mile 86 or so, but cannot do day trips further back inside. So this is the biggest factor for us. The wolf picture was shot at about mile 43, for example ... we heard of the wolf kill and were able to drive 45 miles inside the park to photograph it, something the other lodges cannot do. Same with the grizz, most of the ones shown were photographed early in the day between miles 62 (Highway Pass) and 69 (west of Eielson), something you can't access with the other two lodges (except on their transfer days).

Also the views are much better since you can see McKinley from both lodges, while Roadhouse and DBL are in forested areas several miles away with no views of the Mountain ... if you are choosing between CD and NFL then note that Camp has simple cabins with an outhouse for each cabin and shared showers, while NFL is a modern lodge with electricity and indoor plumbing in each room. The privy sounds romantic until you gotta go at 3:30 AM and it's raining outside ...

There are a couple of advantages to Backcountry Lodge and the Roadhouse, they are not on fixed 3 and 4 day schedules so you can do a shorter trip, and they are a bit cheaper, but if you want to spend time inside the park interior I prefer CD or NFL.

and how long a lens do you use for those photos?

500 f/4 ... hard to use and hard to travel with, but great results when the stars align ...

Bill
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Old Jun 21st, 2008, 06:53 PM
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the electricity in the rooms pretty much makes it an easy choice. My husband has apnea and needs to plug in his CPap to sleep at night, so that's a non-negotiable point.

I think we will try to do NFL if it fits into our budget. It sounds great, and like a much better way to experience the park than spending all day on the bus.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2008, 03:58 AM
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Thank you again Bill for more of your fabulous photos. Do you offer photography classes?

I'll be planning Pribilof mid-July. Would you recommend 4, 5 or 7 days?
We like to stay longer at each place but maybe 7 days is too long.

Savegre Lodge, that's where we stayed in Costa Rica. Simple lodging but a great place for the bird.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2008, 02:14 PM
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Do you offer photography classes?

No, we are just hobbyists and offering classes sounds a lot like work to me

I'll be planning Pribilof mid-July. Would you recommend 4, 5 or 7 days?

There are maybe 10-12 places to see, ranging from the Orthodox Church to blinds at seal rookeries to two really good overlooks at seabird nesting sites ... you get to go out three times a day because the sun is so high it doesn't get dark at night, so in 3-4 days you can pretty well hit all the locales.

Serious birders will profit from staying longer as there's a good chance you'll see some rarities the longer you're there. Serious photographers will want to stay a week if possible and hit the seabird roosts multiple times. For us a week was about right (I think we'll go again next year).

You mentioned heavy rains in regard to Denali -- I think we had 3 days at the Pribs with more rain than we had in all our days combined at Denali ... they get some ferocious storms with horizontal rains so planning an extra day or two will ensure you have time to see everything. We picked a really rainy day to tour the church, for example.

the electricity in the rooms pretty much makes it an easy choice. My husband has apnea and needs to plug in his CPap to sleep at night, so that's a non-negotiable point

china_cat, they are on a generator and I'm not sure if they turn it off late at night or not, I seem to recall we had to bring a wind-up alarm clock because the electric ones lost power, but I may be wrong. For sure I'd ask ahead of time if you need AC power all night every night.

Bill



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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 05:32 AM
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Thank you Bill, I guess at least 5 days mid-July on St Paul would be the best choice for us. What about if a flight from Anchorage is delayed a day or two? Do you still have to depart from Pribilof as scheduled?
Did you do any hiking/walking on your own or do you always need a guide with your wherever you go?

Maybe we'll see you there in 2009. Meanwhile I'll be enjoying your exceptional photos.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 07:05 AM
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What about if a flight from Anchorage is delayed a day or two? Do you still have to depart from Pribilof as scheduled?

Weather delays are supposedly common, both coming and going. If they are not busy and have rooms you could likely extend your stay, but that throws your return schedule off. We got on/off with no problems but people have luggage issues and delay issues at times.

Did you do any hiking/walking on your own or do you always need a guide with your wherever you go?

You have to use a guide at two of the seal rookery blinds because the seals panic and pups get crushed in the melee if people do the wrong things ... you can hike on your own elsewhere or just ask to be dropped off somewhere and picked up later, which we did about 1/3 the time. Easy to get lost if the fog rolls in so take a compass or GPS though.

Maybe we'll see you there in 2009.

Could be

Bill
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 07:55 AM
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Thank you again. Very helpful.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 12:29 PM
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Bill_H, thanks for all the good info on NFL/CD! Interesting to learn you are not a pro photographer...your work is excellent. Barring any unforseen events, Mrs. MileKing and I will be at NFL the weekend of 8/29 - 9/1. Hope to catch up with you then.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2008, 02:47 PM
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Barring any unforseen events, Mrs. MileKing and I will be at NFL the weekend of 8/29 - 9/1. Hope to catch up with you then.

We will be at Camp Denali those nights for the Brandenburg photo tour ... you can see a pic of my wife with the cheetah on the jeep on our Africa shots (April 2006) ... maybe we'll see you at night if they do a shared presentation.

Bill
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Old Jun 27th, 2008, 03:48 AM
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MileKing, you and Bill are arriving and I'm leaving. We can have a mini get together at the train station.
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