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Trip Report Some Recent Recommendations for Lima, Peru

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I was in Lima for several days earlier this month and had the chance to try out some new places and things, as well as some favorites from prior visits. In no particular order

1. Museo Amano. www.fundacionmuseoamano.org.pe 441-2909
Calle Retiro 160 (near Santa Cruz and Angamos Oeste) Hours are (I believe) Monday thru Friday. There is a daily guided tour at 3pm, you must call ahead and reserve. Admission is by donation (or just buy something in the gift shop). This is a small private museum with only two rooms, but one room is a jaw-dropping collection of amazing textiles that you can only begin to absorb in the brief guided visit.

For the remainder of June 2012 you can also visit a selection of 30 pieces at the Britanico Cultural Center, 5th Block of Bellavista, behind Malecon Balta. The exhibit hours are 9 to 9 Monday thru Saturday (shorter hours on Sunday) and no reservation is needed. There are free English language guides as well. It's an easy walk from Park Kennedy.

2. Museo Metropolitano de Lima, south end of Parque de la Exposición. Tuesday to Sunday 9 am to 5 pm. Admission is by timed ticket, the visit takes about 2 hours. There was a promotional price of 4 soles in place since the museum has been open for only a few months. This "virtual" museum is about the history of Lima (and of course Peru). Spanish language only. Several 3-D movies segments are included. Good for families and those interested in cities in general. The surrounding park has been spruced up and is also good for a wander. There is a small outdoor restaurant adjacent,.

3. Surquillo Market (Mercado No. 2 de Surquillo). A few blocks from the edge of Miraflores, near the Angamos station on the Metropolitano. (See Google Maps). There are some culinary tours that visit this market but easy to visit alone. Great cebicheria stalls (try Margarita at Puesto 540, you can pick what you want and it includes some chilcano for 15 soles). This is the market that Gaston Acurio wants to promote, although it hasn't quite happened yet. They at least are used to the occasional camera toting tourist and you won't get any ugly stares. The streets around have some good shops that sell baskets, housewares, and antiques/junque.

4. La Choza Nautica ( Jr. Breña 200) and Bar Quierolo (Southwest corner of Jiron Quilca and Jr. Camaná). Two restaurants in the central Lima district. The former great for seafood, the latter an old school bar with great lunch specials and Pisco drinks.

5. Desemparados Station (behind the Government Palace near the Plaza de Armas). Now open as a museum of Peruvian Literature, as well as for the occasional departures of the train to Huancayo. Worth a look inside at the stained glass ceiling.

6. Casa O'Higgins, Jiron de la Union 554. On the pedestrian street of Jiron de la Union which runs between Plaza San Martin and Plaza de Armas. They have temporary exhibits as well as a permanent display about Bernardo O'Higgins. Convenient for bathroom visits around the center.

7. Camana street stores, lots of jewelry and bead stores for really cheap. Also some other souvenirs for less than the Miraflores markets.

8. Pedro de Osma museum Barranco. Still great, but the price is now 20 soles and there is a no photography policy.

9. Gastronomy museum (center of Lima) free, but disappointing.

10. Chinatown and the Central Market. Not as scary as everyone makes out to be. Had an okay ceviche at one of the stalls. There are some free museums in this part of Lima so it's worth a wander around, and it is near to:

11. Churros San Francisco (Jiron Lampa near the Plaza de Armas). Not your mama's churro. HUGE, stuffed with dulce de leche and deep fried on the spot.

12. 4-D Gelateria. Still my favorite for unusual fruit flavors. They were remodeling in the Lima airport food court, there is now a quick serve store just for cones, and it looks like the former restaurant is being reduced in size. A two-scoop cone is 10 soles. Try the rose-petal or Pisco Sour flavors, in addition to the lucuma.

13. Picarones Mary in Park Kennedy. Get an order of deep fried deliciousness, and then go check out the stray cats.

14. Turkey (pavo) sandwiches and yuquitas, Barranco. On the walk from the Balta Metropolitano station toward 3B Barranco, there are several sandwich shops and a yuquitas cart. Monstruo's tempted with giant freshly roasted turkeys (113 Nicolas Pierola) and I never got past that one. The yuquitas cart nearby is good, too.

As far as hotels, I recommend 3-B Barranco, #1 on Tripadvisor. A small hotel with included breakfast, modern style, and excellent hospitality.

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