Ozziez

We will be in Venice this December. I have been reading a multitude of fodors threads about Venice and have a few questions:

1. Should we be prepared for Venice to be very crowded, even in mid-December? (we'll be there from 18th - 21st December).

2. Do the orchestras still play in St Marks' Square at night, even in December, and can one still wander around and listen to them or will they all be inside cafes and restaurants?

3. We will be arriving by train, at about 1.30pm. Our landlady can only meet us at San Stae vaporetto stop at 3.30pm. We were thinking of using this time to take Vaporetto #1 down the Grand Canal and back. Is this a good idea at this time of year?

Thanks very much!

tuscanlifeedit

Hi Ozziez

1. Not as crowded as high season.

2. I don't know. In my experience, the nicer the weather, the thicker the crowds, the more likely you are to find the orchestras (a very loose term, by the way) out.

3. Sure. Why not? If it were me, I might go have a long lunch then take a ride.

DownUnder

The Grand Canal is wonderful at any time of the year. Also all the cafes will be serving hot chocolate, so get out at San Marco and give yourself a treat!

ellenem

1. Perhaps as you get nearer to Christmas, but many fewer than May thru October. You'll find crowds along the main walking routes and near San Marco, but will enjoy empty streets in other areas.

2. No, not really. I've been to Venice twice for 6 nights at the end of November, and there wasn't an orchestra in sight. I'm not sure if they set up for Christmas. I don't think the orchestras move inside--they just disappear.

3. Definitely get some lunch or you may miss the opportunity. Also dinner hours in Venice are earlier than Florence and Rome. If you're staying near San Stae, you'll find lots of reasonable dining options. You will have time to ride the Grand Canal. San Stae is just two stops from the train station, so you could continue all the way past San Marco to San Zaccaria and then reverse you course.

kappa1

1. Much less crowd then.

2. No orchestra in winter, sorry !

3. Might be a good idea to spend time but luggage seems to be a bit of nuisance.

sallyjane3

Both DD's and I spent Christmas 2004 in Venice. Absolutely magical!! And COLD. Not crowded at all. No orchestras in San Marco (Did I mention it's cold?) and 3 days we were there acqua alta occurred. The hotel gave us plastic boots to wear and we managed but if I were returning at that time of year, I'd take my own warmer and more durable rain boots.

Take more than one memory card for your camera. It is a beautiful city.

sandi_travelnut

I was there for 4 days over Christmas 2004. Expect potentially rainy and cold weather and lines to get into the basilica on Christmas eve and Christmas day. Also be prepared for acqua alta. Plan your day accordingly if that occurs because it could take a few hours for the canals to rise (the vap may have to stop running) and then to fall.

flygirl

My first visit to Venice was over New Years several years ago... it was bright and sunny for the most part, but very cold. The first day was overcast with acqua alta but it cleared up pretty quickly. I remember one foggy morning - it's magical.

It wasn't crowded (apart from St. Mark's Square at midnight) and I do seem to remember orchestras playing there at some point during my visit... I can't remember if they were outside or not.

Ozziez

Thank you very much everyone.

One more question: I've read about the Gondola Workshop/boatyard that is next to the Church of San Trovaso (south west of the Accademia) and can be viewed from across the Rio di San Trovaso. Does anyone know if the gondola makers work during the winter?

ellenem

Here's what it looks like from across the canal. I'm not sure you'd spend a lot of time watching what they were doing even if they were working.

http://tinyurl.com/55af8o

Ozziez

Thanks ellenem - not a hive of activity, is it? Very picturesque though - perhaps we'll stroll by and have a little look on our way...

tuscanlifeedit

Yep, Ozziez it is pretty quiet at that gondola workshop. I've been by there many times and it is picturesque, but nothing much seems to go on that is visible. But still, go by if you have the chance.

Also, I replied to your Venice Card thread but forgot that you were staying near San Stae. I do think a transportation card of some sort would be good for you.

ellenem

The squero is quite close to the Zattere--easily found if you know where to look . . . not far from other places of interest so you won't waste too much time away from other possibilities if you just want a quick look.

You might also visit this showroom/workshop to see how a forcola (gondola oarlock) is made.

http://www.forcole.com/eng-home.htm

Ozziez

Thanks Tuscanlifeedit and ellenem - will take your advice and just wander past for a quick look.

Also ellenem - this workshop looks wonderful - just what DH and DS will love! Thanks so much for telling me about it.

flygirl

Directly across from lo squero is a really excellent gelato shop. Not sure if it is open in the winter, but if so - mmmmmm.

flygirl

ps. also in the vicinity is Taverna San Trovaso, voted the place to get the best Sgroppino in May 2007. (voting panel consisted of my Mom and me).

Ozziez

Thanks for the tips flygirl - have written them in my travel notes!

Mischka

Yes, very yummy chocolate gelato