kelpartho

My husband and I are making our first trip to Ireland in May. We will be there for 8 nights; arrival into Dublin and returning from Shannon. We plan to rent a car. I would appreciate any insight into planning our itinerary. We are already stumped on whether to spend 2 nights or 3 in Dublin!
Thanks!

joolleeb

In my opnion Dublin is just a large city(which you can find elsewhere) don't get me wrong we did like it but we just preferred the small towns and country side of Ireland much more. We drove into Dublin around 4pm checked into our hotel and took a strole through St Stephens Green and also viewed some of the Geogrian Door of Dublin and then headed towards Grafton Street(Shopping area all closed off to traffic). We ate in temple bar. Next morning got up early headed to Christchurch, the Guinness tour, St. Pats, Trinity Book of kells, more of Grafton Street and dinner in Temple Bar-we did alot in a day. We left the next morning bright and early and were first in line for Powers Court in the wicklow Mtn Range. I would say 2 days in Dublin is good enough

TarheelsInNj

If this is helpful at all, here is the itinerary we've planned for our April trip (also a first time):

Arrive in Shannon
2 nights Dingle
2 nights Kenmare
1 night Kinsale
3 nights Dublin

We'll probably arrive late afternoon on our first Dublin day, so therefore it will really be like 3 nights/2 days.

Given this short amount of time, we're deciding if we want to see both Dingle Peninsula and Ring of Kerry. We may skip ROK this time, but are definitely planning on Killarney National Park during our Kenmare visit.

Enjoy!

joolleeb

Here are some of our favorites. Powers court gardens and Glendalough(wicklow). Rock of Cashel, Kinsale, Kenmare-Killarney National park, SheepsHead, Mizen Head and Bearrer Peninsulas.Cliffs of Moher, Aran Islands Dingle and the Connemare regions. We did all of this in 14 nights and we were pretty much on the go staying 1-2 nights in each area and alot of driving. We really enjoyed it but our next trip will be at a much slower pace. Seeing how you only have 8 nights I would pick 2 maybe three areas to focus on and do day trips out of. Try to stay at least 2-3 nights in each place.

china_cat

I'm in the midst of planning a 2 week trip, and I can sympathize with your puzzlement. but i think it would really help if you ask yourself this question: what are the things that we most want to see? Now, I don't mean you have to be specific about your answer, you may not know if you want to see Caher or Cashel, but you might think "I want to see castles!". Or maybe you want to see scenery. or ancient archaelogical sites. Or gardens. or great houses like Muckross and Russborough. I think you should try to make a prioritized list of the types of things you want to see. and then see if you can't come up with an itinerary that works. or post the list here, and I'm sure you will get more helpful responses.

also, try to think about how you like to travel. do you want to be on the go all the time, and do lots of driving? or do you prefer multinight stays in one place? do you feel like you need to cover a lot of ground in your 8 days, to get an overview? or do you want to go slow, and get an in-depth look at a couple of places. I know I answered that question for myself...I want to go slow. Less is more. but that surely doesn't appeal to everybody.

punto

2 days in Dublin in loads - actually you'd probably get away with 1. Drive along the coast to Cork, coming up through the Ring of Beara. Everyone goes on the Ring of Kerry, this is twice as nice and stay a night in Kenmare. Do the reverse of the Ring of Kerry and then stay in Killarney or Dingle if you think Killarney is too close to Kenmare, it's just Killarney is a better town. Drive up towards Galway, and stay for a night or 2. This will guarantee you the nicest scenery and some of the best places to stay imo

scorcher99

Just returned from 4th trip to Ireland. Last visit was 2003.The regression is staggering.For 1st timers,don't expect anything like what the travel books say.The place has whored out it's culture and replaced it with everthing wrong with "developed"contries;crime,
obesity,unbridled capitalism,drugs,etc. Driving is insane. Irish have always driven fast, but it is pure insanity now. My last two trips there was an average of one traffic death a day. BE ALERT AND CAUTIOUS IF YOU DRIVE. The problems aren't confined to larger cities. A large portion of the west counties are now just way over-priced tourist hell-holes where fake-o "trad-jams" are performed by unemployed drunkards with middling, at best, musical ability. Traditional food is pre-made and microwaved by low-paid nigerian or eastern european immigrants. I have family and friends there who all agree that the Irish, in general, have little respect for American Tourists. Sure, if you buy some jack-ass patch cap and believe in the "mystical power" of connemara marble necklaces, they are your best pals. If not, anyone with a discerning eye can see the place is now a huge theme park. The few places left for solitude and enjoyment of true Irish culture are scattered throughout the countries west-central spine, over into Donegal, and up into Malin Head. Dublin is an Irish version of any major American city. Unless you like crime, litter, and the occasional heroin addict looking for a potential robbery victim, there isn't alot to enjoy. Maybe swing in and checkout the Book of Kells and Christchurch, then get the hell out. Galway is sprawling and crowded. Go on a weekend night and you will be treated to wasted teenagers blathering into their cellphones and urinating in alleys and on street corners.In Clare, get to Cliffs of Moher at sundown on a weeknight. Stay away from Lahinch. Doolin is a shadow of its former self. The Burren is hauntingly beautiful. To enjoy it you need to get out and into it. The walking guide maps suck. There is a guy between Ballyvaughan and Lisdoonvarna who will guide a walk, or give good info. Tale the info. Leave the guided walk. Limerick is a good place to get accosted. Do not walk around at night. Tourists are as easy to pick out as a turd in a punch-bowl. Beara Peninsula has pretty landscape, (I've hiked the whole thing), but absolutely nothing going on in the towns. Same for Sheepshead. If you must go to Ring of Kerry, get out early, and travel the opposite route of the busses. Get out and walk an in-and-out 8-10 mile section of the walking trail. Then you can really see the natural surroundings. Killarney and Kenmare are remarkably interchangeable. National Park is no big deal. Dingle is o.k, but only in low season. There is a cool little movie theatre where pretty good European independent films are shown by a film watching club. You will meet some nice local people there. Up into Connemara is beautiful.(Get out and walk some low-level Mountain hikes). In Mayo, Sligo is o.k during the week.( Westport is small, bustling, but somewhat charming) The coast of Donegal is outstanding. If looking for solitude try that or Malin Head way up north.

allisonm

Scorcher99, interesting first post. I guess your fourth was also your last trip there, since it was so awful.

scorcher99

Yes Allisonm. I will not return

wojazz3

Apparently scorcher won't return to see family and friends there either. I have some very good friends who just returned to live there. I wonder why if it's so bad.

Sure there's tourism. There are so many travelers who want to see Ireland avoid modern conveniences and stay poor so that they can travel there and see it how it was 50-200 years ago. Ain't gonna happen. I expect Ireland to change and it's nice to find those little out of the way places that don't get a lot of traffic, but those will become fewer and further between thanks, in part, to travel boards like this one.

I spoke to a real estate agent in Donegal. He said that in the past 10 years, the value of property there has increased 10 fold. The Irish just learned that there land was worth something. I guess we should all want them to be poor and starving and perhaps emmigrate to the US, the great land of opportunity. For the first time in a couple hundred years, the Irish population is increasing. That may make all of us tourist angry, worried or just send us off to some other country like Italy or France, which has no tourism at all.

OK, now back to the question. There are many differing opinions on Dublin and there was a recent thread that was essentially "to go or not to go". The Dublin haters stayed away from this thread in droves. I'm an on the fence sort of Dublin person and in fact, it's growing on me with each visit. There is a pub there that I can't wait to visit, but I can't tell anyone about it or it will be filled with tourists by the end of the week. My influence is huge you know. Maybe I'll whisper it later.

If you have an interst in Irish history, Dublin is important. Quite frankly, I would put Kilmainham jail over the book of Kells, but that's me. With 8 nights, I would think two in Dublin would be all that you could afford. If you are there on a weekend, it will be quite crazy. Weeknights are easier.

Bill

starfish1

kelpartho, just wanted to say there are many folks here who will give you sound advice. I don't think scorcher99 is one of them so if you haven't been on this board before, I would suggest taking his/her post with a grain, or few, of salt. We have also planned our first trip in May with many of these poster's help and in all my research, here and elsewhere, I have never heard anyone slag Ireland so much. So, with that said, have fun planning your trip. I'm sure it will be as charming and delightful as you imagined. For what it's worth, we are spending seven nights flying in and out of Shannon and decided to skip Dublin this time. Doing a circle tour from Shannon to Doolin, Dingle, Kenmare, Bantry, Kinsale, Cashel and then Bunratty, near Shannon. We are on the move alot, contrary to what alot of folks advised, but aren't sure when we will be able to return so are seeing what we can. Good luck with your plans!

punto

There is a pub in Kenmare called PF McCarthys that does a real good pub lunch menu and another called The PH (purple Heather) this is always full of locals, so it must be doing something right. And a must visit for a pint is a pub called Crowleys - I won't say why, but you'll laugh all night when you go in. Leave it till after 8pm and if you are very lucky the local musicans will be there. These guys just show up, play for a while, have a few pints and then shoot off home - they're not even paid a cent!

CU

It is nice to hear the various opinions of people that come to visit our native shores. Of course we listen to all views i.e. the good and the bad. I have visited the U.S.A., Australia, Russia etc. and in all the cities that I visit I am told that there are certain places that one should not go into. But I will not paint all society by the behaviouror of the few and I take my enjoyment form the friendliness of the majority.
If anone of you are coming to my neck of the woods have a look at www.shannonregiontourism.ie
Enjoy your trip

punto

I lived for quite a good few years in Ireland and go back there alot to visit friends, family and of course golf. I would have never thought that there driving was that bad. I laugh at everyone saying that "they drive on the wrong side of the road over there" because that means that they are all wrong. Perhaps it might make more sense saying that they drive on the opposite side of the road to us! I was telling a friend of mine in Ireland about american opinions on irish driving and he emailed me this. (i have just picked out a few and it is meant as good olde irish humour)

1.Turn signals will give away your next move, a confident irish driver avoids using them.
2. it's a tradition to honk your horn at vars in front of you that don't move after 3 milliseconds after the light turns green
3. Remember that the goal of every irish driver is to get ahead of the pack by whatever means necessary
4. Speed limits are arbitrary figures, given only as a suggestion and not enforceable in ireland during rush hour
5. the faster you drive through a red light, the less chance you have of getting hit
6. (and my favourite) - WARNING! never come ot a complete stop at a stop sign. No one expects it and will result in you being rear-ended

kelpartho

Thanks to everyone for your advice.

Here is what we have decided on for our itinerary.

3 nights Dublin
1 night Kilkenney
1 night Kinsale
2 nights Killorglin (Ring of Kerry)
2 nights Ennis

We hope to see as much as we can during our stay.

GreenDragon

Hehe.. you're doing the opposite of us, pretty much. We're going in late June/early July ... 4 nights in Ennis, 4 in Killarney(Caherbarnagh), 3 in Kilkenny, 4 in Dublin, flying into SNN and out of DUB.

We'll wave at you as we pass by

CU

For your trip to Ennis have a look at www.visitennis.ie

sroseme

We spent 6 weeks in Ireland this summer. We loved many of the places already mentioned. In general, I'd stay in the Republic as much as possible. The people were grand and welcoming and every small town had its own charm. Our favorite activity was "discovering" the lesser known rings, standing stones, castles, manors and seasides. No crowds and often opportunities to meet farmers/caretakers/informal docents and pubowners when we asked for permission(this is essential-tourists tramping all over the place is not a nice thing to do) and directions. We visited the "big" attractions only in the very early morning-usually before the bus arrivals. Do drive the Ring of Kerry the wrong way round. even then the huge buses are terrifying-inches away. Stop. get out and walk-don;t just look from the car. And be very very very careful driving. irish roads often don't have room for 2 cars, much less farm equipment, strollers,bicyclists, livestock and every other form of transport known to man.
Overall slow down-on the roads and everywhere else. Stay 2 or 3 nights. Your second night at a pub and you are an old friend. Watch a hurling game. Local libraries are a kick and the librarian usually knows everything about the place,
Enjoy.

tower

Kelpartho:

Go with an open mind. I can truly say that as long as I've been on this Fodor site, I have never seen a more mean-minded surgery on any country or city than that spewed forth by "Scorcher"...seems he/she believes in the old "scorched earth policy". He/she certainly didn't leave much of Ireland standing. Of course, it's just one person's vociferous opinion, BUT he/she doesn't seem to have much support thus far.
I love Ireland, both North and South, and during my four visits I have met with nothing but unbridled warmth and friendship, good old traditional pub music, and country scenes of beauty and awe.
Go, go for yourself and be your own judge....and be prepared to enjoy without the "scorcher's" words burning your ears. Please e-n-j-oy..
Stu T.

CU

TO all you welcome visitors to our noble shores could I humbly offer one small piece of advice, - If you find you are in trouble driving STOP it is far easier to solve a problem stopped then trying to figure it out while you are moving closer to the danger.
The majority of us will be only too happy to help you out.