marchy007

We will be in Lucca for 3 days at the beginning of May. What are the best day trips out of there (besides Pizza) considering that we will not have a car.

Also, how easy is to get to Lucca by train from Rome. Do we need to go through Florence?

Thansk in advance, fodorites.

Huitres

I stay in Lucca every time I am in Italy and absolutely love the city. You might want to devote at least one full day (of your 3) to see the city, walk around its walls, see Puccini's home, the duomo, etc. Pisa is close by via train (15 mins), as is Viareggio and the coastline (30 mins).

Lucca is very easy to get to by train from Rome. I suggest looking at trenitalia.com, put in the Lucca and Rome city pairs, and a weekday that you will be traveling on (say Monday). It will bring up the entire daily schedule for the trains, where they stop, how much the ticket costs, the duration of the journey, etc. I suggest printing that sheet out and bringing it with you when you go to Italy. Just show that sheet to a billing/ticket agent in Roma's Termini stazione - you can circle the train and time you want to go in advance, to make it easier.

Lesli

Another Lucca fan here. I spent two full days there on my last trip, and enjoyed just strolling along the walls and seeing what Lucca itself had to offer.

Are you also spending time in Florence on this trip? Because if not, you can travel there easily by either bus or train.

Here are some other ideas for side trips without (and with) a car:
http://www.frommers.com/destinations...544010011.html

Have a wonderful time!

crazymina

Biking around the wall is fun too!

ira

Hi March,

This link will allow you to get train schedules using English.

www.trenitalia.com/en

monicapileggi

Hello Huitres,

What are some of your favorite restaurants in Lucca? I'll be there with my cousin in mid-may for 2 nights.

Thanks!

Monica

Huitres

Hi Monica:

I suggest Trattoria da Leo (or da Leo Fratelli=of the brothers Leo), Via Tegrimi, 1. This local restaurant serves delicious Tuscan food in a very comfortable style restaurant that lacks pretension and airs. A lot of locals go there and it is off the beaten tourist path so it's a plus in my book. The menu has soups, antipasti, pastas, steak, fish, poultry and lots of other delectables in between all served for reasonable prices.

Ristorante Da Guido, Via Battisti, 28 is another low-key fav that serves ample portions that include roasted veal, rabbit and all the traditional Tuscan dishes (white bean soup, steak Florentine, etc) including a delicious Penne all'arrabbiata (hot & spicy!).

Lastly, La Buca di San Antonio, Via della Cervia is a Michelin star restaurant and pricey. But the food is delicious and it is a very popular restaurant in Lucca. You will need to make reservations if you go there.

Additionally, I found a delicious little pizza place for a quick lunch while strolling about the town - it is located where the central market area is set up, behind the church of San Michele in Foro and the Piazza San Michele on Via S. Lucia...I can't remember the name off the top of my head but it a pizzeria. I have been there 3x -- I should know the name by heart! Anyway, they serve large slices of pizza and calzone that are filling enough for dinner if you don't want to spend the time and money in a sit-down restaurant. Also, near the vicinity of the walls at the entrance gates to Lucca are some wonderful trattorie and family-run restaurants. Fortunately, Lucca is not too terribly over-run with tourists so anywhere you decide to eat at, you will be rewarded with a delicious meal and friendly people. Have a great trip in May - I will be back there in September!

monicapileggi

Hi Huitres,

Thanks for the restaurant listing! Have you heard about Ristorante Gli Orti di Via Elisa? I found it listed in the Tuscanhouse web site and it was recommended by the hotel manager/owner at Albergo Diana where we're staying. He said it's a very good local trattoria with reasonable prices. I emailed Da Leo but they never responded.

Thanks again,

Monica

Huitres

Hi Monica:
I haven't heard of 'Ristorante Gli Orti di Via Elisa' but if your hotelier recommends it, it is probably a nice place. I've eaten in quite a few Lucca restaurants that I generally don't keep track of the name (sometimes I save the napkin or even get a menu!). However, I am more the historian vs the culinary Julia Childs type so I don't go out of my way to eat at 4* & 5* restaurants because those places are usually always geared towards the tourists and foreigners. I love the local, hole-in-the-wall places where I get a great meal at a good price and thoroughly enjoy my experience.

Da Leo Fratelli is an informal place, you do not need reservations. If you are trying to find it, you may have to walk around a bit because many of the locals hadn't heard of it when I was trying to find it the first time. It is near the Puccini home (in that vicinity) so at least I can steer you in the right direction. (Oh! Do make sure you order fried zucchini florets or flowers as an antipasti -- it is a Tuscan treat and they are very good!)

monicapileggi

Good morning Huitres,

The hotelier wrote to me stating, ?The best trattoria/rest. In Lucca is Gli Orti di via Elisa.? I think I?ll make reservations there for our first night. I emailed the place and they wrote back stating a full meal per person, per antipasto, primo, secondo, e vino della casa il prezzo è 18.00/20.00 euro. That?s in my price range!

My friend Dawn highly recommended Ristorante Stefani ?da Benedetto,? just south of the city, about 5km. She?s been there a couple of times and says it?s excellent with lots of food and reasonable prices. In fact, she, her husband and another couple plan to stay in the Lucca area just to be able to dine there in May. We?ll miss seeing them by 2 days! We?ll dine there on Friday.

I am also not a 4-5* restaurant diner and like to find places like you do.

I?ll add Da Leo Fratelli to my list ? maybe for lunch(or Da Leo); I love fried zucchini flowers!!

Thanks for comments! I?ll provide my journal when I return.

Monica

monicapileggi

Oops, just re-read the posting and see that Da Leo is the same as Da Leo Fratelli.! At least I have that place on my list.

Huitres

Hi Monica:
That restaurant your hotel recommended sounds great and good price! I will have to check it out when I am there in Sept. Lucca is by the interstate (A something?) so easy stop for those traveling by car. I never rent a car, but go rather by train. Please note the train station and the "modern" city of Lucca is actually outside its city walls. The restaurant that is 5 km outside the city might be walkable - dependent on how motivated you feel towards exercise! The first time I was in Lucca, I stayed outside the walls at the 'Napoleone' hotel - rooms about 70-100 euros a night. While it was a nice hotel, it was a walk each and every time we wanted to see "inside" of Lucca and the walls. The last couple of times I have stayed in the Piccolo Hotel Puccini at 75 euros a night - great bargain and in the center of things. Have a wonderful trip and enjoy your sojourn in Toscana - buon viaggio!

monicapileggi

Hi Huitres,

I went ahead and made dinner reservations at ..Elisa. I?ll post my comments when I return. Ristorante Stefani may be only 5km/3 miles from our hotel, but I don?t want to walk it at night. At least it?s close by to get to/from the hotel without getting lost. Lucca is off A11/E76. We?ll get plenty of exercise throughout out trips. We plan to climb many towers! We?re staying at Albergo Diana, just inside the town walls. We were quoted 67 Euros/night (no breakfast).

Thanks for the ?buon viaggio.?

Monica

Huitres

Monica:
Lucca is a very safe city to walk around in (both inside and outside) its walls, so walking would not be a problem (to that rest. 5 km away). Thanks for filling in the hwy #, I forgot it. We digressed one day and ate at the McDonald's next to the A-11 because everything else (all the restaurants) were closed post- 2 pm. (Surprisingly, the chicken sandwiches there were much better than expected and were on a panini/roll sort of bread!)

Also, meant to tell you that there is another great gelato place to go to. It is also a cafe with delicious espresso and cappucino. It is located in front of the church San Michele in Foro in the piazza (if standing in front of the church, it is on your Left, at the corner). You will get charged a lot if you order ice cream and sit down, it is better to go inside, choose your ice cream and then walk out with it (like "to go&quot. There are benches and other places to sit around and eat it in the area without getting socked a high price! (My Italian boyfriend had a cow because they charged us so much when we sat down there to eat it and he thinks that it was because I am American!)

You will get tired of climbing the towers after awhile. Initially, I went to about 3 of them and then just photographed the rest! Definitely walk around the entire circumfrence of the city walls - takes about 45 mins total - and offers a great view of Lucca from the rooftops and gardens. We walked around daily for some great exercise. Weather should be really nice in May so not too hot yet!

monicapileggi

We won't be doing towers on a daily basis, so we shouldn't get tired of it. Reenie wants to do it all! including the towers. The views from the Torre Grosso in San Gim were wonderful.

Thanks for the gelato information. I hope to enjoy gelato a few times. I'm not a big dessert eater, but will have something on occasion. I remember my first trip to Italy (1990) and ordering a drink and sitting down at a table. The prices!!! I'll definitely order my gelato "per la via."