A native of Bosnia, Ljubomir Stanisic made his name in Portugal as a young chef full of flair, fronting TV shows, writing books, and, above all, experimenting with food (and wine). When he reopened this industrial-chic foodie haven in Bairro Alto, it made the 50 Best Discovery list within months, and in 2024 it secured a Michelin star. Here, the chef's personal and professional journey from one end of Europe to the other (literally, as it included a spell in the Azores) are reflected in tasting menus (from €140, drink pairing from €70), one of them vegetarian, that alternately coddle and amaze diners, showcasing both tradition and innovation. Prepare to get your hands dirty, tearing and dunking Bosnian bread from the chef's mother in potent sauces, or picking up a salad served in an unusual compact form. Ingredients from Portugal include both fine seafood and insect larvae, and full use is made of fermentation for added flavor. Even drink pairings bend the rules: white wine can follow red, and fortified cider may feature. Stanisic also runs Bistro 100 Maneiras and is an active partner in the newer "Mexican gastrobar" Carnal (€13, no lunch)—both in the Chiado neighborhood.