Casa das Bifanas
The humble bifana (pork steak), braised in a sauce flavored with garlic, bay leaf, and wine (or beer) and then served in a rustic roll, is a lunch favorite. This bustling eatery on Praça da Figueira, Rossio's smaller twin, is one of the best places to try it—even if they don't bother to put it on the menu! They also offer a great choice of rustic dishes at prices low enough to draw locals, who eat at the counter if they're really scrimping. The terrace out front is a welcome sun trap on chilly winter days, but don't miss the informative historical wall panel inside, which includes reproductions of engravings depicting the Hospital Real de Todos os Santos, whose grounds encompassed what is now Praça da Figueira but which was destroyed by the 1755 earthquake.