Yet another NY Trip Report (April 24th through the 29th)
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Yet another NY Trip Report (April 24th through the 29th)
Dear All:
I tried to make this Report short as not to bore the daylights out of you. Just some thoughts and generalities..
Flights to and from (LAX/Newark)on AA were fine, mostly uneventful, the way all of us want them. We were over an hour late leaving Newark but I should have booked an earlier departure since afternoon flights tend to back up.
We used Dial-7 for our airport transfers and I would highly recommend this service. It must be pretty compatible with a taxi, but the price is fixed ahead of time so one does not need to watch the meter. One lands, picks up luggage and calls the tool-free number. A Lincoln sedan shows up within five minutes and off one goes. It was about $60 each way. A deal!
The Michelangelo hotel was very nice. Great hotel in a fabulous location (51st and 7th), with a lovely lobby, nice rooms, pretty good service, great bar and bartenders. One thing that ticked me off about it is that the rooms they show on their website are all mini suites, so it was disappointing to be led into a room with a window looking onto a brick wall. I asked for a better view and we got a room with a window out on 50th Street. Much better but still not like the website. The room was of a good size, nicely decorated with lovely cherry furniture and a pretty modern marble bathroom.
The very nice assistant manager told me that they had better rooms yet, which we could have for more money but I figured that it was not worth it, which I was right. Who stayed in the room? However, the Tripadvisor is full of gushers who say that they were graciously upgraded.. Not us and I was nice! Still, it was a beautiful hotel and I did score some Spring special of $295/weekend and $395/weekday, which I was told was dirt-cheap for the location. Another deal then!
The Michelangelo serves coffee, tea, hot chocolate, etc., croissants and delicious biscotti every morning from 7:00 until 10:00 and a bit later on a weekend. The thing is, one better be there early, since once the croissants are gone, they are gone. Not refillable. In their defense, some people were taking three-four-a plateful of croissants at a time, and one would wonder whether this was a function of the domestic air carriers doing away with meal service... But I digress here..
Bartender Bernie made the meanest Side Cars! Lordy were these good!! Bernie is a real pro and we had great fun hanging out with him before--and sometimes after--dinner.
Curtains was an absolutely fabulous play!! A definite highlight of our trip. Great talent, terrific musical numbers, and just hysterically funny. I am sorry that we did not go to more plays, but at least I will know what to do next time we go. Husband is ready to go back, even though he was all worried about NY being too much for him.
We enjoyed a pretty good weather, except for last Monday when it poured half a day and we got pretty wet on our planned boat ride to see the Statute of Liberty.
Museums.. We went to the Met, MOMA, Frick Collection, and the Guggenheim, which I did not enjoy at all. There was way too weird of an exhibit and I generally do not do well with political issues..
They had about 50 stuffed tigers with at least 50 arrows stabbed into each one, into eyes, noses, ears, hearts, in different poses and planes of suspension, and all of them tigers looking like they were in pure agony.. And then one of the guides there tells me that it is actually a good thing that there were that many arrows stabbed into each stuffed tiger, since one should get it right away that it is not real, that no tiger would still be roaring after all those stab wounds. HA?!?!?!? What is so good about seeing that many tigers in such agony, whether real or imaginary? What is the great allegory all about here??
I loved the Met and, of course, this is a huge place that would call for many more additional visits, but we joined a free tour and took the time on our own and generally enjoyed our visit very much. Husband particularly loved the section with Egyptian mummies (he was born in Cairo). I just loved it all.
The food tour of the Greenwich Village was a total hoot! http://www.foodsofny.com/greenwichvillage.php There was plenty of food to the point that I had to stop tasting. We had a few varieties of local pizza; salami, cheese, and olives from some famous Italian Deli; variety of olive oils and fancy vinegars to taste on breads; Thai dumplings; cheese canolli; chocolate cheap cookies, and I am probably forgetting a bunch of stuff. Anyway, the guide Bari took us around to show different architectural styles, structures on a preservation list, different restaurants, bars, etc. And the three hours just flew by..
We made our one-single NY purchase in the Village. We bought a jar of chestnut honey so that we could reproduce this amazing arugula salad with pecorino cheese and chestnut honey that we had in Venice last Fall.. or maybe we are kidding ourselves since where are we going to get the amazing pecorino we had in Venice?
So, museums, the Village, Statute of Liberty, Times Square, Rockefeller Center, Fifth and Madison Avenues, Empire State Building, Chinatown and Little Italy, and a walk past Ground Zero just to absorb the energy, feel the pain of these poor souls and their families and children and parents...broke our hearts all over again.
We did all the tourist stuff. Of course, we took a few stabs at a Central Park, once crossing it from East to West, and another time from South to North, following someone's advice as to the most scenic route. Tulips of all colors were blooming all over NY, everywhere. It was lovely.
Food! We followed the reported suggestions of Fodorites here and did pretty good:
We loved Rue 57 for breakfast. http://www.rue57.com/#Home My eggs, lox and onions scramble was full of lox and Husband's banana pancakes were awesome. Very French and very wonderful. The rest of the time we stuck with The Michelangelo's breakfast, stalking the croissants, and it worked out fine and allowed us to have lunch.
Before our fight home, we ate at Carnegie Deli which was o.k. Nothing incredible and pretty tourist trappy. But, because those sandwiches were such monsters, we saved our second halves and brought them on the flight home. And it was hands down better than whatever AA was selling in flight.
Zabar's on 80th and Broadway was fabulous! Best pastrami sandwich for Husband, tongue sandwich for me (to be closely followed by a cholesterol pill), ice coffee, new pickles! Heaven! http://www.zabars.com/on/demandware....FQp2gwodNTFd2g Not to be missed under any circumstances and to be sought out again and again...
Dinners..
Our first night in NY, we headed to Trattoria Del Arte. http://www.trattoriadellarte.com/ Note the very interesting decor (we were seated in the "lip" room, but there are also nose, ears, etc. rooms) and the place was packed to the gills. The food was very tasty but really expensive ($47 for a veal chop) and it was just a casual place. In addition to the veal chop, we also enjoyed an appetizer of grilled vegetables (asparagus and that anisette bulb, the name of which escapes me right now $16) and rigatonni with eggplant ($25), all delish, not plentiful, but costly. So, we gave up on dessert at the Trattoria and, instead, headed for some Drambui with Bernie at The Michelangelo. A much better deal at only $10!
Next night we dined at Cafe Des Artistes http://www.cafenyc.com/cafedesartistes/html/index2.htm . A beautiful restaurant with gorgeous murals on the walls and ceilings, pretty tasty food, high prices, very NY. My lamb chops were very-very good. A sort of middle aged and obviously not married, at least not to each other, couple were making out across the room, which provided for a great entertainment..
I think that Vice Versa is more hype than good http://www.viceversarestaurant.com/index2.htm, but maybe we ordered the wrong stuff, maybe it was an off night, etc., I am not sure. They totally screwed up/overcooked my scallops (lentil ragu the scallops rested on was very good) and Husband's veal, which I expected to be pounded into cutlets, were two large cubes, breaded and fried. In their defense, the veal was tender but it was an odd looking dish.
The consierge from The Michelangelo, knowing where we were dining, "sent" us a pana cotta with cherry sauce for dessert. Let us just say that it would have been a better deal if we paid for the pana cotta ourselves, but James the consierge was happy. The restaurant itself is beautiful, romantic, and the service is pretty good too but, like I sad, it was not all there ..
A definite winner was Roberto Passon http://www.robertopasson.com/media/robertopasson.html. Very good food, terrific prices (most dinners under $20), appetizers large enough to share ($10-$14 range). An appetizer of white asparagus with proscutto and poached egg on top, veal scaloppini w/lemon and capers and greens, whole grilled branzino, and veal osso bucco with a marrow bone (!) were all exceptional. We ate there twice. I understand that they also do Sunday Brunch. The restaurant itself is a very modern looking trattoria/osteria. No white tablecloths - no high prices either.
We had a dessert and tea at Chez Josephine, an interesting place with a piano bar and with nudes of Josephine, pink ruffles, mirrors, etc. all over the place. http://www.chezjosephine.com/ There were people having dinner there and they all looked pleased, so I can only imagine that it is a good restaurant. A bunch of people piled in after a show let out and the atmosphere was very nice.
After five days of hard-core touring, I was ready to come home to our provincial California. Like I said before, Husband is ready to go back to NY.
Anna Roz
I tried to make this Report short as not to bore the daylights out of you. Just some thoughts and generalities..
Flights to and from (LAX/Newark)on AA were fine, mostly uneventful, the way all of us want them. We were over an hour late leaving Newark but I should have booked an earlier departure since afternoon flights tend to back up.
We used Dial-7 for our airport transfers and I would highly recommend this service. It must be pretty compatible with a taxi, but the price is fixed ahead of time so one does not need to watch the meter. One lands, picks up luggage and calls the tool-free number. A Lincoln sedan shows up within five minutes and off one goes. It was about $60 each way. A deal!
The Michelangelo hotel was very nice. Great hotel in a fabulous location (51st and 7th), with a lovely lobby, nice rooms, pretty good service, great bar and bartenders. One thing that ticked me off about it is that the rooms they show on their website are all mini suites, so it was disappointing to be led into a room with a window looking onto a brick wall. I asked for a better view and we got a room with a window out on 50th Street. Much better but still not like the website. The room was of a good size, nicely decorated with lovely cherry furniture and a pretty modern marble bathroom.
The very nice assistant manager told me that they had better rooms yet, which we could have for more money but I figured that it was not worth it, which I was right. Who stayed in the room? However, the Tripadvisor is full of gushers who say that they were graciously upgraded.. Not us and I was nice! Still, it was a beautiful hotel and I did score some Spring special of $295/weekend and $395/weekday, which I was told was dirt-cheap for the location. Another deal then!
The Michelangelo serves coffee, tea, hot chocolate, etc., croissants and delicious biscotti every morning from 7:00 until 10:00 and a bit later on a weekend. The thing is, one better be there early, since once the croissants are gone, they are gone. Not refillable. In their defense, some people were taking three-four-a plateful of croissants at a time, and one would wonder whether this was a function of the domestic air carriers doing away with meal service... But I digress here..
Bartender Bernie made the meanest Side Cars! Lordy were these good!! Bernie is a real pro and we had great fun hanging out with him before--and sometimes after--dinner.
Curtains was an absolutely fabulous play!! A definite highlight of our trip. Great talent, terrific musical numbers, and just hysterically funny. I am sorry that we did not go to more plays, but at least I will know what to do next time we go. Husband is ready to go back, even though he was all worried about NY being too much for him.
We enjoyed a pretty good weather, except for last Monday when it poured half a day and we got pretty wet on our planned boat ride to see the Statute of Liberty.
Museums.. We went to the Met, MOMA, Frick Collection, and the Guggenheim, which I did not enjoy at all. There was way too weird of an exhibit and I generally do not do well with political issues..
They had about 50 stuffed tigers with at least 50 arrows stabbed into each one, into eyes, noses, ears, hearts, in different poses and planes of suspension, and all of them tigers looking like they were in pure agony.. And then one of the guides there tells me that it is actually a good thing that there were that many arrows stabbed into each stuffed tiger, since one should get it right away that it is not real, that no tiger would still be roaring after all those stab wounds. HA?!?!?!? What is so good about seeing that many tigers in such agony, whether real or imaginary? What is the great allegory all about here??
I loved the Met and, of course, this is a huge place that would call for many more additional visits, but we joined a free tour and took the time on our own and generally enjoyed our visit very much. Husband particularly loved the section with Egyptian mummies (he was born in Cairo). I just loved it all.
The food tour of the Greenwich Village was a total hoot! http://www.foodsofny.com/greenwichvillage.php There was plenty of food to the point that I had to stop tasting. We had a few varieties of local pizza; salami, cheese, and olives from some famous Italian Deli; variety of olive oils and fancy vinegars to taste on breads; Thai dumplings; cheese canolli; chocolate cheap cookies, and I am probably forgetting a bunch of stuff. Anyway, the guide Bari took us around to show different architectural styles, structures on a preservation list, different restaurants, bars, etc. And the three hours just flew by..
We made our one-single NY purchase in the Village. We bought a jar of chestnut honey so that we could reproduce this amazing arugula salad with pecorino cheese and chestnut honey that we had in Venice last Fall.. or maybe we are kidding ourselves since where are we going to get the amazing pecorino we had in Venice?
So, museums, the Village, Statute of Liberty, Times Square, Rockefeller Center, Fifth and Madison Avenues, Empire State Building, Chinatown and Little Italy, and a walk past Ground Zero just to absorb the energy, feel the pain of these poor souls and their families and children and parents...broke our hearts all over again.
We did all the tourist stuff. Of course, we took a few stabs at a Central Park, once crossing it from East to West, and another time from South to North, following someone's advice as to the most scenic route. Tulips of all colors were blooming all over NY, everywhere. It was lovely.
Food! We followed the reported suggestions of Fodorites here and did pretty good:
We loved Rue 57 for breakfast. http://www.rue57.com/#Home My eggs, lox and onions scramble was full of lox and Husband's banana pancakes were awesome. Very French and very wonderful. The rest of the time we stuck with The Michelangelo's breakfast, stalking the croissants, and it worked out fine and allowed us to have lunch.
Before our fight home, we ate at Carnegie Deli which was o.k. Nothing incredible and pretty tourist trappy. But, because those sandwiches were such monsters, we saved our second halves and brought them on the flight home. And it was hands down better than whatever AA was selling in flight.
Zabar's on 80th and Broadway was fabulous! Best pastrami sandwich for Husband, tongue sandwich for me (to be closely followed by a cholesterol pill), ice coffee, new pickles! Heaven! http://www.zabars.com/on/demandware....FQp2gwodNTFd2g Not to be missed under any circumstances and to be sought out again and again...
Dinners..
Our first night in NY, we headed to Trattoria Del Arte. http://www.trattoriadellarte.com/ Note the very interesting decor (we were seated in the "lip" room, but there are also nose, ears, etc. rooms) and the place was packed to the gills. The food was very tasty but really expensive ($47 for a veal chop) and it was just a casual place. In addition to the veal chop, we also enjoyed an appetizer of grilled vegetables (asparagus and that anisette bulb, the name of which escapes me right now $16) and rigatonni with eggplant ($25), all delish, not plentiful, but costly. So, we gave up on dessert at the Trattoria and, instead, headed for some Drambui with Bernie at The Michelangelo. A much better deal at only $10!
Next night we dined at Cafe Des Artistes http://www.cafenyc.com/cafedesartistes/html/index2.htm . A beautiful restaurant with gorgeous murals on the walls and ceilings, pretty tasty food, high prices, very NY. My lamb chops were very-very good. A sort of middle aged and obviously not married, at least not to each other, couple were making out across the room, which provided for a great entertainment..
I think that Vice Versa is more hype than good http://www.viceversarestaurant.com/index2.htm, but maybe we ordered the wrong stuff, maybe it was an off night, etc., I am not sure. They totally screwed up/overcooked my scallops (lentil ragu the scallops rested on was very good) and Husband's veal, which I expected to be pounded into cutlets, were two large cubes, breaded and fried. In their defense, the veal was tender but it was an odd looking dish.
The consierge from The Michelangelo, knowing where we were dining, "sent" us a pana cotta with cherry sauce for dessert. Let us just say that it would have been a better deal if we paid for the pana cotta ourselves, but James the consierge was happy. The restaurant itself is beautiful, romantic, and the service is pretty good too but, like I sad, it was not all there ..
A definite winner was Roberto Passon http://www.robertopasson.com/media/robertopasson.html. Very good food, terrific prices (most dinners under $20), appetizers large enough to share ($10-$14 range). An appetizer of white asparagus with proscutto and poached egg on top, veal scaloppini w/lemon and capers and greens, whole grilled branzino, and veal osso bucco with a marrow bone (!) were all exceptional. We ate there twice. I understand that they also do Sunday Brunch. The restaurant itself is a very modern looking trattoria/osteria. No white tablecloths - no high prices either.
We had a dessert and tea at Chez Josephine, an interesting place with a piano bar and with nudes of Josephine, pink ruffles, mirrors, etc. all over the place. http://www.chezjosephine.com/ There were people having dinner there and they all looked pleased, so I can only imagine that it is a good restaurant. A bunch of people piled in after a show let out and the atmosphere was very nice.
After five days of hard-core touring, I was ready to come home to our provincial California. Like I said before, Husband is ready to go back to NY.
Anna Roz
#2
Joined: Aug 2005
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Nice report...and good to read all the sights you managed to see.
As for restos, I totally agree re Roberto & Cafe. Interesting to read your take on ViceVersa which
Doug Stalling touts. Haven't been to it myself & wondering whether I should. Hmmm.
As for restos, I totally agree re Roberto & Cafe. Interesting to read your take on ViceVersa which
Doug Stalling touts. Haven't been to it myself & wondering whether I should. Hmmm.
#3
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,965
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Great trip report- thank you. I'm curious, why would it have been a better deal if you had paid for the panna cotta yourself- I'm assuming that you tipped the concierge more than the dessert was worth- is that what you meant?
I know that it can't be helped, but it sort of irks me when hotels say that they have better rooms but you can't have it. Especially for short (one night) trips. But, i would imagine that they considered your move to a higher floor with a view an upgrade.
When we were in Naples, FL last week, we got an "upgrade" (really not much of a difference) b/c we booked through amex on a program- we got gulf front instead of gulf view. We met a couple who arrived the day before us and left when we did-- they got upgraded, without a reason, to a one bedroom suite from a gulf view room. Go figure!
I know that it can't be helped, but it sort of irks me when hotels say that they have better rooms but you can't have it. Especially for short (one night) trips. But, i would imagine that they considered your move to a higher floor with a view an upgrade.
When we were in Naples, FL last week, we got an "upgrade" (really not much of a difference) b/c we booked through amex on a program- we got gulf front instead of gulf view. We met a couple who arrived the day before us and left when we did-- they got upgraded, without a reason, to a one bedroom suite from a gulf view room. Go figure!
#4
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Joined: Oct 2005
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Rhea-58.. should you try Vice Versa ("VV")? By all means, since it is a bit suspicious that we are the only VV snobs out here. Just do not order scallops or the breaded veal and do report back whether it was us or VV.
emcash.. yes, we tipped the consierge and that was more than the "free" pana cota would have cost us. LOL But, the consiere was gallant enough to comment on our restaurant choices and so we felt compelled..
One of my pet peeves is the bate-n-switch form of advertising and so the gorgeous, filled with daylight mini-suites on The Michelangelo website vs. a generally o.k. room with a window onto a brick wall was enough to affect my overall opinion of the property.
And, when the assistant manager told us that they had nicer rooms available, after having been told that this was our very first trip to NY; that we were so very excited about being in NY, and were so very disappointed that our room did not comport with the ones on the website, and that we were generously giving five (5) nights worth of business to The Michelangelo, and he offered to upgrade for additional cost... well, it was certainly not a mortal sin but kind of venial.
But, did I mention that we had a great time despite the little set backs?? Well, we did!
Anna Roz
emcash.. yes, we tipped the consierge and that was more than the "free" pana cota would have cost us. LOL But, the consiere was gallant enough to comment on our restaurant choices and so we felt compelled..
One of my pet peeves is the bate-n-switch form of advertising and so the gorgeous, filled with daylight mini-suites on The Michelangelo website vs. a generally o.k. room with a window onto a brick wall was enough to affect my overall opinion of the property.
And, when the assistant manager told us that they had nicer rooms available, after having been told that this was our very first trip to NY; that we were so very excited about being in NY, and were so very disappointed that our room did not comport with the ones on the website, and that we were generously giving five (5) nights worth of business to The Michelangelo, and he offered to upgrade for additional cost... well, it was certainly not a mortal sin but kind of venial.
But, did I mention that we had a great time despite the little set backs?? Well, we did!
Anna Roz
#5

Joined: Jan 2008
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That appetizer at Roberto Passon sounds wonderful and I'm so disappointed that we never got around to going there, especially since we walked past it about a hundred times. I'll have to put it on my list for next visit to NY.
Nice report, anna!
Nice report, anna!
#7

Joined: Jan 2008
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We called Carmel from the airport and the car was there within about 5 minutes -- it was very easy. The only reason we chose Carmel over Dial 7 was that their phone number was right in front of us at the bank of phones.
Yes, I was a good girl this time and did my trip report right away so it's on the US board somewhere.
Your hotel was pretty much around the corner from us and I'm sure we walked past it but I don't remember seeing it.
We also hoped to go to Cafe des Artistes but unfortunately it was closed at the time we were there. Nor did we get to the King Cole Room, Ellis Island or Chez Josephine -- all on my list!
Oh well, I guess that just leaves a lot for us to do next time!
Yes, I was a good girl this time and did my trip report right away so it's on the US board somewhere.
Your hotel was pretty much around the corner from us and I'm sure we walked past it but I don't remember seeing it.
We also hoped to go to Cafe des Artistes but unfortunately it was closed at the time we were there. Nor did we get to the King Cole Room, Ellis Island or Chez Josephine -- all on my list!
Oh well, I guess that just leaves a lot for us to do next time!
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#11
Joined: Oct 2005
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So glad you had such a wonderful time -
sorry the Michelangelo was a mixed experience for you - we stay there every January, usually are upgraded, often prior to arrival, but I have earlier on been the recipient of the "however you can have this room for only x amount more, which is less than the published rate" but that hasn't happened in many years - I think I once had that room looking at the brick wall though on one of my other mid year trips to the city - but I actually didn't mind b/c it was so quiet and it was also pitch dark by the time I'd get to the room !!
RHEA - and Anna - As far as Vice Versa, don't know, we also ate there in January of this year b/ of of both Doug mentioning it several times and Michelangelo concierge James seconded the recommendation and we all loved it -
here is link to my report about it and what I ate - scroll down until restaurants, and you will see it - but I would return -
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...1&tid=35099570
Anna - you had ALL our favorites on the Passon dinner menu ! That is one of the restaurants we continue to return to on every visit to NYC - for either dinner or brunch -
that foodsofnyc tour is marvelous - can't wait to try another one !
don't know how I missed this report before, but glad I caught it this time it was up
sorry the Michelangelo was a mixed experience for you - we stay there every January, usually are upgraded, often prior to arrival, but I have earlier on been the recipient of the "however you can have this room for only x amount more, which is less than the published rate" but that hasn't happened in many years - I think I once had that room looking at the brick wall though on one of my other mid year trips to the city - but I actually didn't mind b/c it was so quiet and it was also pitch dark by the time I'd get to the room !!
RHEA - and Anna - As far as Vice Versa, don't know, we also ate there in January of this year b/ of of both Doug mentioning it several times and Michelangelo concierge James seconded the recommendation and we all loved it -
here is link to my report about it and what I ate - scroll down until restaurants, and you will see it - but I would return -
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...1&tid=35099570
Anna - you had ALL our favorites on the Passon dinner menu ! That is one of the restaurants we continue to return to on every visit to NYC - for either dinner or brunch -
that foodsofnyc tour is marvelous - can't wait to try another one !
don't know how I missed this report before, but glad I caught it this time it was up
#12
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Joined: Oct 2005
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LOL, escargot! I based our NY itinerary on YOUR spring trip report.
I remember reading it and taking notes, so no wonder we visited your favorite spots and restaurants. I even remember taking notes as to what to order and, hence, we ordered the same dishes at Roberto Passon.
One caveat about RP, the "special" dishes are about twice the price of what is on the menu, so one might want to ask in advance. They really are worth it, since the chef is really talented and food is marvelous, but so one is not surprised when the check arrives.
Anna Roz
I remember reading it and taking notes, so no wonder we visited your favorite spots and restaurants. I even remember taking notes as to what to order and, hence, we ordered the same dishes at Roberto Passon.
One caveat about RP, the "special" dishes are about twice the price of what is on the menu, so one might want to ask in advance. They really are worth it, since the chef is really talented and food is marvelous, but so one is not surprised when the check arrives.
Anna Roz
#13
Joined: Oct 2005
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lol back anna, that is too funny !
I now make a version of that RP appetizer all the time in the summer - except I grill green asparagus and then put it on top of the prosciutto, top with a thin slice of parmesan and then the egg - and I sprinkle with a little capers - people love it ! and it reminds me of being in RP -
NeoPatrick was the Fodorite who got me hooked a few years ago on RP -
I now make a version of that RP appetizer all the time in the summer - except I grill green asparagus and then put it on top of the prosciutto, top with a thin slice of parmesan and then the egg - and I sprinkle with a little capers - people love it ! and it reminds me of being in RP -
NeoPatrick was the Fodorite who got me hooked a few years ago on RP -
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