I'm grateful for the advice I've received on this forum and wanted to share my experiences on Maui, Molokai and Oahu in July. (This was our second trip to Hawaii, having visited Maui, Kauai and the Big Island about 8 years ago. We decided to return to Maui to spend time in the Hana area.)

On July 4 we flew into Kahului, Maui, rented a car and drove west to Kaanapali Beach Hotel above Lahaina. There we had an oceanfront room in the Kauai wing with a perfect view of the blue Pacific, Black Rock and golden sunsets, as well as Molokai and Lanai in the distance. Despite being tired we walked the beach path to see Lahaina's Fourth of July fireworks. We started the next day by snorkeling at Black Rock, then drove north to various beaches and the Mokuleia Marine Life Conservation District, where the snorkeling was excellent.

Loved our stay at KBH and wished it could have been longer than two nights. The staff made us feel very welcome and the hotel was relaxing--just north of the congested part of Kaanapali, yet still on the beach path so we could walk at night.

On the afternoon of 7/6 we picked up some provisions and drove to Hana, with a long stop in the Kaenae Peninsula, which we had admired on a previous trip. Checked into Hana Hale Malamalama?s Tree House Cottage (3 nights), which gets mixed reviews. Pros: It?s attractive, spacious, has a kitchen and a whirlpool tub for two. Cons: The vegetation totally obscures what was once a view to the bay, the outside shower is not a pleasant experience, and the late afternoon sun makes the cottage unbearably hot until late evening.

The next day we drove to Waianapanapa State Park and hiked part of the coastal trail (going south), a gorgeous expanse of deep blue sea breaking against black lava, then rested on the black sand beach. Drove to Blue Pool and Nahiku to enjoy the pools and waterfalls. Had a great dinner at a roadside shack that serves smoked fish kabobs and barbeque.

The following day was devoted to Oheo Gulch. On a previous trip we had spent a couple hours there and wanted to return for a more leisurely visit. Arrived before the crowds and enjoyed swimming in the pools, then crossed the road for the hike to the top--an enjoyable trek that passed through a dense bamboo forest. About three hours later we were back in the pools, then spent the late afternoon admiring the dramatic coastline.

We departed Hana on 7/9 and drove south, around the back side of Haleakala (absolutely no problem driving in a rental sedan). Returned the car at Kahului airport and flew to Ho?olehua, Molokai, where we picked up a car and drove west to the Kaluakoi resort area. We rented a condo--Paniolo Hale unit F-2--with a great ocean view, screened lanai, kitchen and washer/dryer (4 nights). There?s a bedroom upstairs but it doesn?t face the ocean, so we used the bed in the living room and fell asleep to the sound of the waves. The sunsets from the beach and former golf course (soon to be re-opened) in front of the condo were spectacular.

The next day we took the Nature Conservancy hike in Kamakou Preserve. We met up with two other couples and our volunteer guides, who drove us many bumpy miles into the Molokai Forest Reserve to the trailhead. The trail is actually a very narrow boardwalk through a rain forest and bog, ending at a dramatic overlook atop Molokai?s highest mountain.

After the hike we drove to Kaunakakai, the island?s tiny main town, for condo provisions and the first of several visits to Kanemitsu Bakery. Back on the west side of the island, we spent the late afternoon on three-mile-long Papohaku Beach.

On Sunday we explored Molokai, including snorkeling off Murphy Beach and the spectacular drive to Halawa Valley. We had picked up the local paper in town and noticed that Na Kupuna Serenaders were performing at The Lodge at Molokai Ranch that evening, so we drove to Maunaloa to enjoy the music, dance and stories of the famous "aunties," followed by a nice buffet dinner at The Lodge.

The next day we took the 10-minute flight to Kalaupapa Peninsula for a tour of the historic leper colony. We were picked up by Richard Marks, the colony?s sheriff and himself a victim of Hansen?s disease. After collecting visitors who either hiked down or rode mules, we embarked on a tour of the peninsula in a rickety school bus. (Until the remaining handful of residents leave the colony or die, visitors must be escorted.) Richard provided a first-hand account of the heartbreaking lives of those banished to the peninsula. But despite the somber history lesson, we were surrounded by immense beauty, including views of the towering sea cliffs. We spent the rest of the day snorkeling off Pohaku Mauliuli Beach, a short walk from the condo.

On 7/13 we reluctantly left Molokai and flew to Honolulu, where we rented a car and immediately drove up the east coast toward the North Shore, with stops at the Byodo-In Temple, Kualoa beach park, Laie and other sites. We snorkeled at the popular Pupukea Marine Sanctuary and got shave ice in Haleiwa before heading back to Honolulu, where we checked into our home for the next 10 days, the Hilton Hawaiian Village. I was on a work assignment for my employer much of that time, but we managed to squeeze in a couple days of sightseeing, including snorkeling in Hanauma Bay, walking the length of Waikiki Beach and attending the Prince Lot Hula Festival. While I worked, my husband toured a number of sites on his own.

At first we were a little put off by the "staged" quality of the Hilton Hawaiian Village since we're not used to large resorts. But after we adjusted to the bustle of so many people (remember--we came from Molokai, which doesn't even have a traffic light on the entire island) we really enjoyed our stay. The beach there is much wider than the rest of Waikiki, and our balcony had a lovely view of sand, sea and Diamondhead.

I've spent time on five Hawaiian islands and can't pick a favorite--they are all beautiful and relaxing and the residents are so welcoming.

Thank you, Lorraine, for sharing your trip with us. I was especially pleased to hear about your visit to Molokai, because I haven't visited there. So glad you had a wonderful trip!

Yet another confirmation that we must go to Molokai, before it changes! Great report! Mahalo!

Lorraine,
Mahalo for your trip report! Can you please comment further & compare how good the snorkeling was on Oahu (Pupukea), on Molokai, and on Maui, and which was your favorite for snorkeling?

John, my very unscientific answer is that the snorkeling was best on Maui at the Mokuleia Marine Life Conservation District (Slaughterhouse Beach and Honolua Bay). I say unscientific because it's a combination of luck, tide, weather and a host of other factors. We enjoyed calm water, but perhaps the area is reliably calm in summer (I noticed that the snorkel boat trips went there). Both locations provide easy access into the water (but limited parking on the road.)

Although we saw plenty at Black Rock, I enjoyed it less because the ocean was surging and so many people were around.

Although there was plenty of sea life at Pupukea Marine Sanctuary (lots of turtles!) and at Hanauma Bay on Oahu, both were shallow and crowded when we went so it was harder to enjoy the experience.

Murphy Beach on Molokai is nice because it's an actual beach with easy parking, but during low tide it can be too shallow to snorkel. We were there at mid-tide and I had to thread my way out for quite a distance before I could stop worrying that I'd touch a reef.

Mahalo Lorraine, for the thorough reply and insight!!! Agree with your assessment of Black Rock and Honolua. Perhaps if you're headed to HI again, you might check out snorkeling on the Big Island.

Lorraine, my family is going to stay for five nights in December in Paniolo Hale units F-2 and K-2. I would appreciate more details about these two condos, area, places to see, places to play golf, places to take long walks/hike and places to snorkel. We thought the golf course is opened by now.
Did you get your hot bread run at night to the bakery?
How did you get to Pohaku Mauliuli beach? You said it is a short walk from the condo but I cannot find this place on the map. We thought that side of the island is too rough for snorkeling.
Were you able to use the phone in your condo?
Is there an office for Paniolo Hale or you can only contact them by phone?
Did you use a swimming pool at Paniolo Hale? We heard it is usually closed.
Was your condo cleaned during your stay?
What did you do about tipping at Paniolo hHle?
What company did you rent your car from? Would you recommend them? Did you need 4wd?
Were you able to take a hike to the famous waterfall in Halawa Valley?
What airline did you use when flying to and from Molokai? Any comments/recommendations?
I heard that Papohaku Beach is beautiful but the sand is so soft that it is too hard to take long walks. Did you feel it was too soft?
Thanks for posting your nice report.

z, what a coincidence that you are booked in F-2, the condo we stayed in. Your other unit is several buildings away and not as nicely sited. Half the golf course was open (the half in the development next door to Paniolo Hale); perhaps by December the other 9 holes will be open. I don't golf, but the paved paths that run through both developments are very convenient for walking, even after dark (the sky is magnificent--Milky Way every night!).

Besides the night sky, another typical Paniolo Hale activity is bringing chairs close to the sea to watch the sunset--a social half hour. (Our condo had folding chairs in the closet.)

We never saw the pool in PH, as it was on the opposite side of the development and we had no interest in using it. The pool in the development next door seemed very pleasant, with a sea view. That development also has a couple shops, which could come in handy in an emergency.

As to snorkeling near the condo, I called it Pohaku Mauliuli beach based on something I saw in a guide book--I could easily be wrong. But it's a 5-minute walk north from the condo--you can't miss it. The sea could very well be too rough in December. Ask the locals about the beaches on the east side where the reef is, such as Murphy at mile marker 20.

As to hikes, I wish I had arranged a hike in Halawa Valley up to the waterfalls (you need to be escorted), rather than the Kamakou Preserve hike which involved a LONG, BUMPY drive to get to the trailhead.

I also wish I had hiked down to Kalaupapa Peninsula and taken the mule back, but hubby is afraid of heights and I elected to stay with him.

You can use the phone in the condo, and if you have problems you can contact the office (on the left as you turn into the development), stop the guard who patrols the area, or call your rental agent. We paid the cleaning fee of $75 as part of the rental agreement (unit was cleaned only after we left). Bring your own clothes detergent and of course food--everything else was there. There was no one to tip, so that wasn't an issue.

We never did the night run to the bakery, as it's on the other side of the island (half hour away).

Papohaku Beach is indeed too soft to walk for any length of time; it was also windy the day we went.

We used Aloha/Island Air to fly in and out of Molokai--no problems. They don't seem to weigh luggage, so you could conceivably bring food with you. We got a compact car from Dollar for $38.39/day + taxes and this car was so basic it didn't have power locks. No problem driving anywhere (but it wouldn't have made it to Kamakou, that's for sure).

Get "Driving and Discovering Maui and Molokai" by Richard Sullivan--extensive info and maps and gorgeous photos. You'll have a beautiful and relaxing vacation.

Lorraine:
At what time of day did you leave Hana, driving on the south, back side of Haleakala? I am planning on returning at 1 or 2pm along that route, after a mid-morning hike through the bamboo forest to the waterfall. Do you think I would encounter much traffic in the opposite direction (blind turns!). Glad to hear that the road condition was no problem for your rental sedan. Can you comment further to ease my concerns about this route? Did it save time, or was it used just to experience the different, more desolate side of the island?

Fork, you'll encounter almost no traffic around the back side of Haleakala. The road is very narrow and winding for a few miles beyond Oheo, then it becomes a wider, less winding, dirt or graded gravel road which we had no problem driving (if there had been recent rain, I imagine it would have been more difficult). We probably left our hotel at 10 and took our time, as we had all day to reach Kahului Airport in time for a 5:30 flight. We drove in that direction to see something new, as we've driven the traditional road to Hana several times.

Since you're doing the hike to Waimoku Falls, you should get an early start from Hana, as it took us more than 4 hours to hike roundtrip. When will you see the Oheo pools?