Last week, my husband and I were in New York. Here are the most interesting things we saw and did; I post this list in the hope that the info may be of use to someone. (NB: For the most part, these are not recommendations as such, but rather descriptions that may help in deciding whether something would suit one's tastes.)

Restaurants

Jules--St. Marks PL./8th St. E. @ 1st Ave.--212-477-5560
My husband's cousin and her husband, who live near Gramercy Park, met us at this tiny East Village bistro for dinner--the food is French, and a small jazz combo plays from 8:00 on.

I really enjoyed my moules et frites, and my husband and his cousin both had good veal. D's husband followed an appetizer of sweetbreads with a nicely prepared steak. Not expensive.

Orso--322 W. 46th St. @ 8th Ave.--212-489-7212
Following a rec on another Fodor's thread, my husband and I went here for an Italian lunch before a Saturday matinee. We both enjoyed the ravioli stuffed with chicken, ricotta cheese, and spinach. Not expensive for lunch.

Broadway Plays

Sweeney Todd
I was so eager to see this show: the Sondheim music, Patti LuPone as the bloodthirsty Mrs. Lovett, all very exciting to me. That sort of anticipation almost guarantees disappointment.

And I did have some disappointment. Not with the lead performances, though: Patti LuPone and Michael Cerveris were both terrific. And Alexander Gemignani was very good, I thought, in a supporting role, as well as being a fine musician.

Yes, a fine musician. Every cast member was at least a competent musician, as we could see because every cast member played a musical instrument in the show, some almost constantly throughout.

And every cast member was onstage constantly for the entire show. And there was one very meager stage set, and no change of scenes at all. I could have been watching experimental theater in the 60s.

Reviews, I understand, have been unstinting in their praise for this innovative production, and audience members were raving about it. But to me it seemed like novelty for economy's sake, and I found it more irritating than intriguing. My husband didn't react strongly either way.

But, as I say, the music and the performances were good.

Phantom of the Opera
What? Vulgar schlock, you say? Well, perhaps, but I wanted to see it, and my long-suffering husband was willing to indulge me. The show was exactly what I expected it to be. The only surprise was in the theater itself: Every child visiting Manhattan came to that Wednesday matinee, along with some local school groups. Getting in and out of the theater was the sort of mob scene I can't stand. But, surprisingly, the all-child audience made no disturbance during the play.

Sightseeing

Top of the Rock
The observation deck at Rockefeller Center afforded a very good view of most of Manhattan, and a welcome respite from milling about with the teeming citizenry.

(continued)

More highlights...

Museums

Metropolitan Museum of Art
This is easily one of the best things about New York City. I come here every time we visit Manhattan, and this time we both spent a full day here. Inexhaustible, and offering something for every taste.

Dahesh Museum of Art--Madison Ave. @ 57th (or perhaps 58th) St.
I had a reason other than simple interest for wanting to see this small museum devoted to Academic art (that is, works by artists formally trained at European art schools, particularly the French Academy in the 19th century). But I am also interested in this art.

Many, perhaps most, people would find it too "pretty-pretty." Lots of western classical references, some coy Victorian nudes, and a fascination with Middle Eastern exoticism are hallmarks of this sort of work. A good collection, but not for everyone.

The Frick Collection--Park Ave. @ 70th St.
An excellent collection of European art was amassed by a 19th-century steel magnate and now is on public exhibit in his residence. This is a very intimate setting for seeing some exceptionally fine works--I was surprised to see Hans Holbein's famous portrait of Sir Thomas More, and was much struck by Giovanni Bellini's St. Francis in the Desert. Paintings by Titian, Rembrandt, Vermeer, Gainsborough, and (though I have no use for him) Fragonard, all can be found here. Definitely worthwhile.

Hotel

The Roosevelt--Madison Ave. @ 45th St.
We usually stay here, and we like it. This time, we paid $249/night for a spacious (by Manhattan standards) room for two. Well-appointed, clean. My only complaint about the Roosevelt is that, at least half the time, I get an uncomfortable mattress.

Car Service

All-County Limo Service--516-785-0500
This is the first time we used a car service--usually, we take a taxi from LaGuardia into the city, and rent a car to drive out to Long Island to visit family. This way is so much easier! Someone to meet us at the airport, to handle luggage, to give us door-to-door transportation--I think we'll go this way from now on. I can't say what they'd charge from LaGuardia into the city, but for the route we took, the cost was comparable to a rental car.


Anyway, we had a nice trip.

Thanks for posting smalti.

Can't imagine paying $250/night for a room that has an uncomfortable bed 50% of the time. Sounds like you need to try a new place on your next trip. Maybe try the Benjamin or the Affinia 50 next time.

smalti:

Nice clear trip report.

What time of day or evening did you go to Top of the Rock?

Sandy

Hi, mclaurie!

We've stayed at the Roosevelt in recent years because of my husband's consulting--the organization he works with puts him up there, and we tack on nights on our own dime.

But when we go entirely on vacation, we're certainly up for other suggestions. Thanks for those recs--are they midtown hotels?

Hi, Sandy!

Thanks for the compliment!

We went up to the Top of the Rock probably about 4 PM, when there was still plenty of light. It occurred to me that, if we'd waited a couple of hours, then seeing sunset might be nice. But when we went, there wasn't a crowd--this was on a Tuesday.

The cost was, I think, $17.50 pp (10% off coupons were available on the street), and it wasn't too much of a fuss. There's a short film as you go in (which my husband wanted to see in its entirety), and then a (to me) very annoying elevator ride up--a sound and light show played on the elevator ceiling.
But the view was definitely worth it: Clear panels all around afford an unencumbered prospect, and we spent a good while there. It was interesting to see all of Central Park spread out like a carpet, and on the other side we could see down nearly to the lowest part of the island.

For the view, I thought this was better than the Empire State Building. I think it's open from early morning till midnight.