My family (husband, self, and two daugthers, ages 12 and 15) are planning an Alaska trip for next summer, flying into Anchorage the evening of 6/10 (a Friday) and returning midafternoon 6/19 (a Sunday), which gives us 8 1/2 days (9 nights) to explore. The two places we really want to visit are 1) Denali NP, including the shuttle ride into the park and probably some other nearby activities (a raft trip? sled dog demo (is this the best place for the money to do the sled dog thing? do you need to pay $40+/pp just to learn about the dogs?)? hiking?), and 2) Seward, with an all-day boat trip into Kenai Fjords and a second day of local hiking and sightseeing (Exit Glacier? Sealife Center?).

We figure we probably need to spend the first night in/around Anchorage, though we'd like to get up early Sat. morning, get a rental car, and get out of town. We don't know whether we should head north or south first, but we'd probably want to spend about 3 nights in Denali and 2 or 3 nights in Seward, depending on how much of the day we have after we arrive and before we depart. I'd appreciate any suggestions of great but not-too-expensive places to stay in these locations (we especially like places with fridges, so we can eat leftovers next day; B&Bs are nice, too; Anchorage just needs to be a clean place to sleep), good places to eat, and priorities of what to do (especially if the weather doesn't cooperate).

But my main question is what to do with our extra few days. We'd really like to do something different (rather than just tacking on more days in each place) and uniquely Alaskan, but we've definitely gotten the message that you don't want to spend the whole vacation in the car. We like beautiful scenery, nature hikes (wildlife, glaciers), perhaps rafting or kayaking, sights of cultural/historical interest (mining?), and strolling around funky towns, soaking up local color, but we also like some down time for the girls. (They like nothing better than reading a book, playing cards, or soaking in a hot tub with an incredible view.) We are laid back and not fancy/glitzy, do not fish, and are not interested in flightseeing (both because of cost and fear of heights).

My brother recommended taking a day to drive from Denali via the Denali Highway to Paxson and south to Valdez; a day around Valdez, perhaps taking a boat trip on Prince William Sound (to Cordova?); and then a day from Valdez to Seward (or, if on the last day, driving back to Anchorage for a 3 o'clock flight--is that doable? Either way, it seems a long drive, but the car ferry to Whittier is probably too expensive for four people). I gather from another Fodorite poster (Julie304) that the Denali Highway to Valdez stretch is beautiful but perhaps too much to bite off with our time constraints. If so, would anyone recommend still doing the Denali Highway part but not going all the way to Valdez--going only as far as Glenallen? (If so, what would you suggest doing in that area, and do you have a suggestion of a good place to stay?) Or is it not worth all that driving if you're not going to drive through Thompson Pass and see the sound? Conversely, would it be worth stopping in Glenallen on the first day after Denali and then going to Valdez from there as a day trip the next day? (Presumably, we could then make the drive from Glenallen back to Anchorage on our last day and make our 3 o'clock flight?) I realize if we do drive the Denali Highway that we need to rent from Affordable; do we really need 4WD? It was my understanding that the road is a pretty good dirt/gravel road. Does the fact that it's mid-June affect the condition?

If anyone thinks biting off this extra circuit is too much with the 2 1/2--3 days we have, do you have any suggestions of other don't-miss Alaska experiences to do instead? Any wonderful places to stay and relax/explore on our route between Seward and Denali or near enough that it wouldn't add too much driving? I saw a good report in a Fodor's guide about Chena Hot Springs (is it very touristy?), but that may be too long to drive, too, and in the wrong direction.

Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

When you are in Anchorage there is a great bookstore called the Title Wave. They have a lot of books about Alaska so this would be a great place for the family to choose some reading material. I would also consider visiting the Saturday market in downtown Anchorage. It's part farmers market/part craft fair. The food vendors will give you a chance to try to local treats. I don't think the drive north is anywhere near as pretty as the drive south so I would head north first. You might stop in Wasilla at Iditarod Headquarters to watch the video and meet some puppies and a Reddington grandchild. When we were there they also gave short rides that weren't as expensive. Independence Mine in Hatcher Pass would also be an interesting visit. You will be there when many wildflowers are blooming and we noticed that large patches of Cow Parsnip scented the air. We saw some children trying their hand at panning for gold. Check out the website. There are some restored buildings and interesting displays. Anchorage is a big city and the suburbs stretch north to Wasilla before the traffic thins out. Carry extra water and snacks. It was in the 80s when we visited last June. (Fairbanks was hotter than Miami.) At that time of year, keep your eyes open for moose and their babies.
The scenery south of Anchorage is fantastic. The tram ride up Alyeska in Girdwood is popular. We also enjoyed Portage Glacier Visitor's Center and learning about the earthquake. You can do both on the way to or from Seward.
Before your trip, check the events listed in the Anchorage Daily News. www.adn.com or get the newspaper when you arrive. The visitors center in Kenai had a free Hobo Jim concert before we arrived. The staff was still talking about how great it was. We later heard him at a dinner show. Seward is much prettier than Kenai/Soldotna area but if you are interested in quilting there is a nice quilt show about the time you are visiting. If you did make that side trip you would pass the Russian River area which is popular for salmon fishing. It's probably a 2 hr drive from Seward to Kenai. You might not like to fish but you might like to watch. There is net fishing allowed during that time too. Check with the visitors centers and libraries where you'll be visiting about events they have scheduled. We liked the Sea Life Center but did not take the behind the scenes tour. We didn't care for the b&b we stayed at so I hope others give you some advice. Have a great trip!

You could easily spend a day or two in Anchorage. The Tony Knowles Trail is great for hiking or biking. The zoo there is reputed to be fantastic.

The Denali Highway is BEST with a 4wd so yes I would only consider one for this drive. As for going to Valdez then the ferry- doable- but you aren't taking time for any of the highlights. Such as Kennicott, at least a day in the Valdez area etc. You are probably looking at $300++ for the ferry. I would consider at least a night in Talkeetna and if you go the Glennallen route (nothing there), then consider a cheap glaicer trekk with MICA guides. As for the sled dogs- the Denali Park demo is free, gives a good overview, but no ride. The cheapest ride is out of Wasilla- $5, or better and longer Seavey's out of Seward. Request each area's visitor's guides- look over what is of interest, head to your library and take out Alaska travel books. Alaska is best seen on the move with stops of a few days- but there area many many areas.

Thanks to everyone who responded. Based on your reactions, we've decided to abandon the Valdez detour. So this is our tentative itinerary (assuming we can get accommodations). Does this seem reasonable? Does anyone have suggestions for which are the better activities among the ones I mention? And does anyone know anything about either the Denali Lakeside Lodging or Ridgetop Cabins in Healy? We'd like to stay somewhere around Denali that has at least a minifridge, so we can eat some meals not in restaurants.

Fri., June 10: Arrive and stay in Anchorage (suggestions for lodging?)
Sat. June 11: Maybe explore some of Anchorage (Saturday market, Tony Knowles Trail) but then head down toward Seward, perhaps stopping along way in Girdwood for Mt. Alyeska tram and/or at Portage Glacier. Will stay in Seward for 3 nights.
Sun. June 12-Mon. June 13- One day for all-day Kenai Fjords boat trip, other day for Exit Glacier and/or SeaLife center or other local exploring.
Tues. June 14- Leave Seward bound for Hatcher Pass (Hatcher Pass Lodge?). Visit Independence Mine, perhaps Musk Ox farm, hiking/walking on the Matanuska glacier (with kids?), or a horseback ride. Does anyone know if many/most rental-car companies don't allow driving to Hatcher Pass (I know that since it'll be June we'll have to approach from Palmer)?
Wed. June 15- Leave for Denali. This doesn't have to be first thing in the morning if there's still more to do around the Palmer/Hatcher Pass area. If, on the other hand, it makes more sense to get to Denali as soon as possible so we'd still have time to do a little something when we get there, that would be fine, too. Stay in Healy area somewhere for 3 nights.
Thurs. June 16-Sat. June 18- One day (first day?) take an early shuttle into the park and go at least to Eilson, perhaps to Wonder Lake. Use the remaining time to take walks/hikes in Denali, visit the sled-dog demo, perhaps take a raft ride on the Nenana. Sometime Saturday, head back south, perhaps to Wasilla.
Sun. June 19- Perhaps check out Iditarod Trail Headquarters before heading down to Anchorage to turn in the car and catch our 3:30 flight home.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Hi. We visited Anchorage, Denali and Seward this past September. Stayed at the Denali Lakeview Inn B&B and highly recommend it. They had several different room arrangements there which might suit your family's needs. The facilities were very clean, spacious and convenient to Denali NP (between Denali and Healy)and had a small fridge, microwave, toaster, coffeepot, etc. Because we get tired of eating out all the time, we brought some food back with us and ate on the deck. It was wonderful, overlooking Otto Lake.
In Seward, we stayed at the Alaska Point of View Suites. They have a suite there that includes a bedroom and fold out couch in the living room. Again, facilities were very clean and spacious. It is situated right in Seward so you are in walking distance of the boat docks, Sealife Center and downtown.
It's certainly a trip you won't forget.

I have an alternative suggestion for the Anchorage-Seward portion. Instead of renting a car, consider taking the Alaska Railroad between them. You'll be able to see more when you don't have to concentrate on driving; it is a highly scenic route, only takes about 4.5 hours each way; and you can get along quite well in the Seward area without a car.

I would cut back to 2 days in Seward and use the other to see Anchorage and the many attractions- your plans don't justify all the time there. Exit Glacier at the most is a couple hours and not nearly the attraction it once was with it's significant recession. UNLESS you are going to do the all day- Harding Hike?? Your June 14 day is over loaded and no way to include all you have listed. You have at least a 4 hour drive Seward- Palmer- never mind all the other stuff you have listed. You will need to specifically inquire if your rental company allow Hatcher Pass driving. Understand fully- even if it does- purchase the extra insurance- cracked windshields are VERY common on unpaved roads and costly when you turn the car back in- they WILL find it. Matanuska glacier needs a full afternoon and isn't worth just driving all the way there and not taking a guided hike. You barely get on the ice without crampons. MICA guides is the way to go here. As for your Denali Park plans- consider carefully if you will be prepared for the possible significant bug problems of Wonder Lake?? I would also, on your last day there- drive to Talkeetna and stay there one night rather than a 3 rd night near Denali park- just a wonderful funky town with superb McKinley flightseeing options which I would strongly encourage you to consider. The summit flights are my clear preferences.

Thanks again to everyone. BudgetQueen, I have a few clarifying questions. Since you mention Anchorage as having good attractions (which do you particularly recommend?), would you suggest spending more time in Anchorage rather than stopping in Girdwood or Portage Glacier on our way to Seward? In reality, even though we'll spend 3 nights in Seward, we'll really only be there the 2 days in between. And based on your suggestion, we thought we'd take the Northwestern Fjords tour, which will take up one entire day.

Yes, I did realize we couldn't accomplish all those things on the Seward to Hatcher Pass day. I was really looking for suggestions on which would be the best of the things I listed. It looks like hiking the glacier is probably out, but I've heard the mine is interesting. Perhaps if we spent the morning driving, we'd still have the afternoon free to explore the mine. Has anyone taken a horseback ride around Hatcher Pass? I see one advertised in the Toursaver book and wonder if it's worth doing either the afternoon we arrive (and saving the mine for the next morning, before the drive to Denali) or vice versa.

Thanks for the tip about mosquitos. I was hoping mid-June might beat the worst of the bugs, but we'll come prepared with lots of bug spray along with rain gear.

And as for the flightseeing, it sounds lovely in principle, but it just would not work for me. I am so scared of heights and flying that I would be a nervous wreck the whole time.

I spent a week in Anchorage and it wasn't long enough! I especially enjoyed riding a bike along Tony Knowles Trail (which goes along the water and learn how to act in case of a moose encounter) and hiking north of Anchorage. The beer-battered fried halibut at the Saturday Farmers Market was fantastic. I also recommend Moose's Tooth Pizza. For a splurge, don't miss Glacier Brewhouse.

The train from Anchorage to Seward is expensive and I would much rather have the rental car. Portage Glacier is almost non-existent but the visitors center is still excellent. Also hike up to Byron Glacier near the visitors center and stop at the salmon viewing platform if it is spawning season.

I stopped and ate in Girdwood but was unimpressed. Keep your eyes open for beluga whales in the water, Dall sheep on the cliffs, and bears and moose crossing the roads as you drive to Seward!

Be prepared for the scenery between Anchorage and Seward to totally astound you. We ended up stopping several times at pulloffs by the road just to take in the views (and watch goats, etc.) Our drive to Seward took much longer than it said in guidebooks, because of all the stopping we did. The views are amazing around every bend in the road.

I too agree- a 4 hour road trip Seward -Palmer can extend several more hours. Turnagain Arm is one of my absolute favorite places of which I always spend a significant amount of time. I think you are trying to plan too precisely?? Don't both worrying about if you will visit the mine etc. Besides being several months ahead at this point, allow for activites as you go. If you skip the mine? so what, maybe you got caught at a great day for hiking Eagle River? Of you stopped for an Eklutna Spirit House tour? As time goes on this trip will change over and over- don't worry. Just set up your overnight stops and leave enough time for ad lib. As for Anchorage- request their guide www.anchorage.net

Girdwood is a great stop. My guess is Postal either hit it on a bad weather day -- which can make any of the best places in AK miserable -- or didn't take the tram or eat at the Double Musky. Both are essential Alaska experiences.

If you hit a rainy day, the Anchorage Museum of History and Art is a great way to spend it.

Also in Anchorage, two local spots are Gwennies (an old-time Anchorage breakfast spot -- crab omelets and reindeer sausage) and Mama O's (fabulous fresh halibut sandwiches). Neither are fancy or make many guidebooks, but are longtime AK institutions.

You don't NEED a 4WD drive on the Denali, but the clearance is nice if you run into early season rougher spots.

If you're going to make the trip, commit to getting all the way to Valdez. The final stretch into town is one of the best stretches of the whole trip. If you get a chance -- time might be far too tight -- Cordova would be the closest thing to a ``funky town'' that you'll see, moreso than Talkeetna, which is definitely worth a stop too. If I recall, though, Valdez-Cordova is about a five-hour trip.

Two nights in Denali is easily enough: One day in the park and another rafting the Nenana. Skip Chena.

I agree with Budget Queen that 2 nights in Seward is probably enough. Hatcher Pass doesn't open until July 4 or later but the road to Independence Mine is paved. There shouldn't be any problem with a rental car for that part of the trip.
I also like the Moose's Tooth and it would be a good place for lunch on your way from Seward to Palmer since it is located off Seward Highway on the southbound side. We were in Palmer this past Father's Day weekend and didn't have trouble with bugs in the mine area but family members who were camping said the mosquitoes were ferocious late in the evening. This was also during a heat wave and we never thought to bring sunscreen. The heat wave may have kept bugs to a minimum. Sounds like you have a great trip planned!

I too was a long supporter of Gwennies but - the last couple times there was a noticable decline and probably won't return. Of course having the Harley shop across the street is always a stop- so maybe?

Well, I finally got the lodging all booked (Your Home Away from Home B&B in Anchorage, Alaska's Treehouse B&B in Seward, the Hatcher Pass Lodge, EarthSong Lodge in Healy, and Pioneer Ridge B&B in Wasilla), so now it's just a question of booking the Denali shuttle and the Kenai Fjords trip, getting the rental car and a Toursaver book or two, and dreaming of summer. Thanks to all of you for the great suggestions. At first I thought I would have a hard time filling up 9 days, but boy was I wrong.