Three adult couples are taking a cruise from NO on 11/9/03, and we will be arriving in NO on 11/6. We are staying at the Comfort Suites Downdown. Since we will only be in NO for 2 1/2 days, what are the "must see or do activities?" Thanks!

Don't expect anything too fancy from the Comfort Suites. I found it to be dingy and smelly like lots of NO hotels can be (due to the humidity and proximity to the Muddy Mississippi) but lacking any ambiance whatsoever--double YUK but we survived. The free breakfast buffet wasn't bad for that sort of thing but I'd rather pay for a real breakfast at croissant d'or or la madeleine or even beignets and cafe au lait at cafe du monde.

Do lots of walking in the french quarter, especially around jackson square, eat beignets at cafe du monde, walk along the riverwalk, eat beignets at cafe du monde, visit the st. louis cathedral and Jackson Brewery, eat beignets....If you get a chance, check out the spray paint artist that parks out AT NIGHT right in front of where the horse and buggy rides park in front of Jackson square. You really need to watch from the beginning of each piece which take him less than 10 minutes. The artwork is not my cup of tea (like a Yes album cover) but the process is one of the most amazing things you will ever see, I promise. It was probably one of my favorite things from this last trip (but we do go very often so anything novel is fun.) Afterward, catch a buggy ride if that's your sort of thing. I hear the drivers make up all kinds of stories... I also hear the graveyard tours are pretty cool.

You should ride the cable car from Carondolet (Bourbon st on the other side of canal) up St. Charles to the big bend at Carollton where there is a La Madeleine, Louisiana Pizza Kitchen and on the other side of the street a NO staple called the Camelia Grill. It is a total greasy spoon, counter only service but an experience you shouldn't miss. (I go whole hog and have the chili cheese fries) They have a great souvenir T-Shirt btw. (There's also a La Madeleine in Jackson square that's always packed. It's not bad for breakfast, a snack or even lunch. It's a chain so you may be familiar with it. Most everything there is pretty good. Try a St. Tropez pastry--it is decadent, kind of like a cream puff with extra cream and butter.) Then, on that same side of the street as Camelia grill down the road between camelia grill and the huge drug/grocery store are a few boutiquey type shops you might want to wander into. Oh, speaking of grocery stores, if you want to take back jambalaya mixes, cafe du monde chicory coffee and cajun foods/seasonings as gifts, get it in that or any grocery store. They all carry it and it's half or more of the price of the ones at the tourist shops--and for the hugest selection of the funniest named hot sauces go to the cajun food place on the third floor of the Jackson Brewery. Right there is a praline shop that makes the best pralines, in my opinion, they're fresh, unlike the ones you buy in the stores and you can sample them. Ok, so, take the trolley back to the quarter/canal and go to AUGUST for dinner. Very expensive, upscale, fancy but the best restaurant going in New Orleans right now. Have the gnocchi with truffle appetizer and prepare to weep when the fourth tiny little dumpling is gone. We also ate at Brigstens (right there several blocks from that carollton trolley stop I told you about earlier) and it was quite good with a really nice atmosphere--waited over 1/2 hour for a table, even with reservations but they serve cocktails so we didn't care. Ate another night at Herbsaints and it was pretty good. My old favorite restaurant in NO is Bayona in the quarter but it's been iffy the last few times I've been there, even at iffy it's better than ANY of the Brennan restaurants. I've had passable meals at Palace Cafe and Emerils and Emeril's bistro in the quarter called NOLA which can be quite good and it's really fun to sit at the counter in front of the wood burning stove where you can get samples of pizza and the cook is occasionally entertaining. Try the Mrs. Hay's Vietnamese chicken wings appetizer, they're really good if you haven't had authentic ones before.
The oysters and PoBoys at Acme Oyster Bar are wonderful and it's an institution like the Camelia grill. It's a luncheonette kinda place so don't expect fancy but it ain't cheap.

Most of the Brennan restaurants, like the Palace Cafe are very mediocre, good food trying to be fancy for the masses kind of stuff. I hear the breakfast a Brennans is good but haven't had it. It's pricey, like around $40 per person, I think.

You kinda have to walk down Bourbon street once in your life but be prepared for the stench and to be disappointed. Occasionally there is a fantastic band playing in playing in some bar and totally ruined by a bunch of g-string clad "models" running around with tambourines, it's kind of sad, actually. There are some good jazz clubs like Tipitinas and there are several big room dance places for two stepping kinda fun, I just can't remember the names, I'm sure they're on fodors or other sites.

If you like Antique shopping Magazine street is fun but has gotten very pricey, no deals. You really need a car to do Magazine street. I had a friend who tried to walk from the quarter and was disappointed after a mile and a half of walking to find only 3 antique stores. There are clusters further up magazine.

We spent one day taking the river boat to the zoo, did zoo stuff most of the day (it's one of the top 10 zoos in the country, I think, VERY nice) then took the free shuttle to St. Charles where we picked up the trolley back to the quarter.

You can get off anywhere along the trolley line and do a garden district walk, I think fodors or any other site will tell you where. Be SURE to have the correct change for the trolley, they can get downright mean about it. It costs $1.25 and you can use a dollar bill and/or any denomination of change except a penny. If you ask for a senior discount be prepared to show your medicare card -- they're mean about that too. Every now and then you'll get a trolley driver that's actually nice and helpful. They will grudgingly alert you to your stop if you tell them in advance where you want to get off.
Also the D-Day museum is fantastic--I can't say enough about it. The acquarium is like any other acquarium, I wasn't impressed. There are other river boat cruises you can take that are fun too. You go to the ticket booth on the river side of the acquarium to get tickets and info. The weather is still pretty warm here so dress for warm weather and bring sweaters to supplement. You need a sweater when you go to most restaurants. Here in the south we keep our indoors sub zero.

Now for my favorite thing to do in NO. Go to Martins Liquors and Wine (lucky you if it's a wine tasting night) and eat in their absolutely fabulous gourmet deli. You can sample wines in the deli, the food is fantastic and in the liquor store, if you convince the wine salesperson that you are a serious buyer, he will let you try various bottles of wine. He was very helpful with me but I did end up buying two cases of wine I couldn't get elsewhere. (Watch out for high taxes in NO)

If you like to shop, One Canal Place is nice, has the usual stuff though. Gucci, Ann Taylor, Williams Sonoma, Saks, Banana Republic, that leather guy, i forget his name and other plus a few unique shops and a Starbucks. There's a Mortons of Chicago there that I haven't tried but have been meaning to, the one in Chicago was to die for good. Right across the way is the Riverwalk which is the usual mall fare.

Oh, and NEVER go back to your hotel at night without stopping at the Cafe du Monde for Beignets and cafe au lait. Speaking of at night. The quarter up to Urseline and over to dauphine is perfectly safe for walking even alone any time of day or night. The area from Canal to Poydras is very safe for groups of at least two but I'm not sure if I'd do it alone (female). Even though NO has one of the highest crime rates in the country, it's mostly resident on resident and they know which side their bread is buttered on, they keep the quarter heavily monitored with plain clothesmen according to my husband and I can tell you, I walk any time of day or night without being afraid. Of course, if you see an empty street,(not likely) just walk down one more block to a busier one and that sort of thing.

Oh, one last thing, if you're into souvenir t-shirts, my absoulute favorite is the one at the Desire Cafe on Bourbon street It has an old timey guy sucking an oyster out of the halfshell and is very cool and classy for a t-shirt. 2nd favorite camelia grill, third favorite is Cafe DuMonde and fourth Dixie Beer (at jax brewery).

Lisa
What great information!

Here's my abbreivated version
1. Walk the Quarter
2. Eat lunch at Mothers
3. Eat lunch at Central Grocery
4. Eat dinner at NOLA
5. Eat dinner at Commanders Palace
6. Beignets at Cafe du Monde
7. Drinks at the fountain at Pat OBriens.

Thanks for the info. I'm a little disappointed with the caution from Lisa about the Comfort Suites downtown being dingy and smelly. Most of the hotels are booked when we will be there from 11/6-11/9. Apparently something is going on. Is the neighborhood by the Comfort Suites safe and walkable? Its located at 346 Baronne St? Thanks

The Comfort Suites will be adequate but, like Lisa, I'd expect a pretty average place. It's by no means a 3* hotel or anything like that. I'd also recommend a cab at night as you have to go several blocks past Canal Street. This downtown area isn't "bad" but isn't very well-traveled either. A cab will cost just a few dollars.

Another recommendation for the artist at Jackson Square. We saw a couple different guys while we were there, but the guy right near the buggy stop was by far the best. We bought a couple paintings from him. Truely amazing.

Hi, just a follow up on my suggestions. First, it will be FINE for you to walk from the Comfort Inn through the quarter any time day or night for one or more people. Just get closer to the river right away and don't walk up Baronne too much. Groups of people will not be bothered. I have been in the Quarter at least 50 times in the past 15 years and NEVER seen an incident of any type. I'm sure they occur every now and then but I walk through the quarter alone at night all the time, just purposefully and with a don't mess with me attitude.

As for hotels: Try the Hotel Bienville House, off season they get as low as 129/night and it and the Monteleone are my two favorite hotels to stay in. I'm a big believer in everything, including the hotel room, little time as I might spend there, being a part of the whole experience. That said, it can be very hard to get a room in NO this time of year due to conventions so if you go expecting less you should be ok. There are just so many great places to stay with so much ambience, it's a shame to stay in a place with no appeal.

Lisa,
This is another "thank you" for the great suggestions for things to do in NO. Since you are so well acquainted with the city do you have any information re Hotel Dauphine? Or does anyone else for that matter?

Try the Top of the Dome Steakhouse for a panoramic nighttime view of New Orleans - and the food is good, too!!
We, too, enjoyed the zoo and the Trolley ride. They actually make you get off at the end and pay again to return!! At the least, they should have left us pay again and remain in our seats - oh well!! It was great.

You can buy an RTA pass which is good for unlimited rides on all streetcars and buses. Last year a 3 day pass was about $8/person. It really comes in handy for riding the St Charles streetcar because you can hop on or off at any spot as many times as you like.

Definitely get the 3-day RTA pass - good for the St. Charles streetcar, as well as many city buses - they're available at various retail outlets around town - check their web site. We paid $12 each when we were there last month - worth every penny.

Here's where we ate - I highly recommend any of these restaurants:
1. Breakfast at Petunia's - French Quarter
2. Lunch at Gumbo Shop - French Quarter
3. Dinner at Dante's Kitchen - Riverbend area
Take the St. Charles streetcar to view the historic homes in the Garden District. To skip the crowds, go to Cafe du Monde later in the evening. Hang around Jackson Square for people watching. Walk around the French Quarter early in the morning after the streets have been hosed down. Have fun!

Good advice about Cafe du Monde later in the evenning. We went there a few times about 11 or midnight. We were too stuffed from dinner to have dessert right away, but after a few hours or wandering around, checking out the clubs and bars, Cafe du Monde really hit the spot.

the Dauphine Orleans is great, wonderful ambience and in what I consider in the "safe zone" (between dauphine and the river (bienville) and Ursuline and Canal. Hotel Dauphine is supposedly an old bordello and it is one of those hotels I consider full of NO charm. MUCH better overall than Comfort Inn but no free breakfast that I recall. It is only 2 blocks down Dauphine from what used to be my fav. restaurant, Bayona. Also, I've been reading the other posts and just for posterity's sake, note that even with an RTA card, you have to exit the trolley and get back on at Carondolet and Bourbon. No big deal, just a small detail to note. (I think they scream something like "EVERYBODY OFF" Also, yes, you have to pay to change directions. You can get a transfer to get off then pick up later in the same direction but the money you save is NOT worth the hassle and the abusive treatment and glares you receive. Please note that the trolley is not just a fun ride for tourists, it is used extensively by locals, esp. Loyola and Tulane students, they can get very frustrated with people who hold up the trolley. That's fine if you don't care that once you get on, half the people are glaring at you. I just prefer to keep things simple and avoid being yelled at by the driver. Keep posting any questions you have, I will check back. I have been blessed with lots of help from other fodorites when asking MY travel questions so I feel obliged to return the favor.

Wow, this is great info, Thanks Lisa & all!
ARe there any historical sites (I know about the Cathedral) we shld see? Wonderful!

We didn't go to it, but, the D-Day museum is located near downtown.

Some must see things:

See a performance at Preservation Hall. Get in line early and expect it to be crowded. The sets only last about a half hour each.

The D-Day Museum. See this while you are on a street car trip down St. Charles.

I liked the walking tour provided by the Jean Lafitte National Park (for free) . Again, get there early as they only take 25 people.

Of the three LSU museums, I liked The Mint the best. You can walk there by going through the French Market.

Spend an hour by the Cathedral watching the artists and street performers.

A few beignets go along way for me (I like mine with cold milk) but you can't beat the location of Cafe du Monde for people watching.

Take the ferry over to Algiers to see Mardi Gras World.

I like Irene's Cuisine, The Gumbo Shop, and the Jazz Brunch at Commander's Palace. But I've had very good meals at The Palace as well. I was disappointed at my meal at Acme Oyster Bar (the Oysters were good, however)

I liked the pralines at Leah's the best.

I would spend more time on Royal Street rather than Bourbon unless smells, drunks, noise, and frat boy behavior is your thing.

Have fun on your cruise.