SharonNRayMc: Trip Report - 24 days on the road: Miami, Jupiter, Bolivia and Peru... and what some folks will do to see the Devil Dance! (Part 2)
Jan 7th, 2006, 07:01 AM
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<b>Along the Road - Puno to Cusco, Continued</b>
Our next stop was at the Inca ruins at Raqchi where we had plenty of time for lots of exploring. We ventured off the bus into a misty sort of rain. I tried to avoid as many muddy places as I could, and managed to clean off my boots before venturing back on the bus by walking through tall, wet grass. These ruins were quite impressive. Jose, once again, provided a thorough tour. He explained the great master-builder, Inca Pachacutec, dedicated the large (302 feet long by 83 feet wide) temple to the Inca creator god, Viracocha. Inside this temple eleven circular columns on each side of a 40-foot tall supporting wall in the center of the temple supported the roof. The walls were fine Inca stone-carved construction up to ten feet high at which point construction materials shifted to adobe bricks. The archaeological site at Raqchi also has more than 200 storehouses of circular construction where grain and other food had been stored. At the top of the storehouses were small windows to provide air circulation. Twenty-two quarters with fine walls and trapezoidal, vaulted niches typical of Inca construction surrounded the site. As we walked around, I noticed a familiar plant - the one Gloria had given to me as a breathing aid at Isla del Sol. I discussed my experience with Jose and was surprised to learn this plant, la muña, a very strong mint, was also used in the storehouses by the Inca to keep insects away and to protect the mummies.
Our next stop was at the Inca ruins at Raqchi where we had plenty of time for lots of exploring. We ventured off the bus into a misty sort of rain. I tried to avoid as many muddy places as I could, and managed to clean off my boots before venturing back on the bus by walking through tall, wet grass. These ruins were quite impressive. Jose, once again, provided a thorough tour. He explained the great master-builder, Inca Pachacutec, dedicated the large (302 feet long by 83 feet wide) temple to the Inca creator god, Viracocha. Inside this temple eleven circular columns on each side of a 40-foot tall supporting wall in the center of the temple supported the roof. The walls were fine Inca stone-carved construction up to ten feet high at which point construction materials shifted to adobe bricks. The archaeological site at Raqchi also has more than 200 storehouses of circular construction where grain and other food had been stored. At the top of the storehouses were small windows to provide air circulation. Twenty-two quarters with fine walls and trapezoidal, vaulted niches typical of Inca construction surrounded the site. As we walked around, I noticed a familiar plant - the one Gloria had given to me as a breathing aid at Isla del Sol. I discussed my experience with Jose and was surprised to learn this plant, la muña, a very strong mint, was also used in the storehouses by the Inca to keep insects away and to protect the mummies.
Jan 7th, 2006, 07:09 AM
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<b>Along the Road - Puno to Cusco, Continued</b>
Our final stop before reaching Cusco was Andahuaylillas where we enjoyed the town's pleasant plaza and toured the Sistine Chapel of the Americas, San Pedro's. San Pedro's is a Jesuit Church established in the Sixteenth Century and built by the Inca in the seventh century. 300 year old pisonay trees flowering with red blossoms and tall palms graced the beautiful plaza. Across from the plaza were some very interesting looking shops -- one featured dolls in native costume, others featured textiles. Too bad we didn't have a bit more time to explore these intriguing shops.
The church is filled with sixteenth and seventeenth century art and combines Christian and Arab elements. Elaborate geometric murals decorate the ceiling, walls and arched walkways into the church. Large paintings depicting the life of Saint Peter hang along the inside walls. Above the steps leading to the baroque alter is an arch decorated with red and gold mudejar decorations and a fine painting by the Spanish painter, Estaban Murillo, "Virgen de la Asuncion". 24 carat gold glistens beautifully over the elaborately carved cedar wood retablo behind the alter. At the top of the retablo is a scene depicting the Holy Trinity crowning Mary, who is surrounded by beautifully painted cherubs at her feet. The twelve foot tall silver tabernacle combines the Christian symbol of the paschal lamb sitting inside the Inca symbol of the sun. Looking back to the rear of the church are Luis de Riaños murals which depict the road each soul chooses: glory or hell. The murals were wonderful examples of folkloric art and many of the figures wore Andean dress. Statues of saints, including San Isidro, the patron saint of agriculture, were dressed in Andean clothing and wore human hair wigs.
Once back on the bus, it wasn't long before we passed by Rumicolca, the ancient gate into the city of Cusco.
Soon we found ourselves at the Cusco bus station. Ray and I thanked and tipped our guide. He had been so fantastic; and, tipping must not be the custom because he seemed both flattered and surprised with the tip. It was a very well deserved tip.
Our final stop before reaching Cusco was Andahuaylillas where we enjoyed the town's pleasant plaza and toured the Sistine Chapel of the Americas, San Pedro's. San Pedro's is a Jesuit Church established in the Sixteenth Century and built by the Inca in the seventh century. 300 year old pisonay trees flowering with red blossoms and tall palms graced the beautiful plaza. Across from the plaza were some very interesting looking shops -- one featured dolls in native costume, others featured textiles. Too bad we didn't have a bit more time to explore these intriguing shops.
The church is filled with sixteenth and seventeenth century art and combines Christian and Arab elements. Elaborate geometric murals decorate the ceiling, walls and arched walkways into the church. Large paintings depicting the life of Saint Peter hang along the inside walls. Above the steps leading to the baroque alter is an arch decorated with red and gold mudejar decorations and a fine painting by the Spanish painter, Estaban Murillo, "Virgen de la Asuncion". 24 carat gold glistens beautifully over the elaborately carved cedar wood retablo behind the alter. At the top of the retablo is a scene depicting the Holy Trinity crowning Mary, who is surrounded by beautifully painted cherubs at her feet. The twelve foot tall silver tabernacle combines the Christian symbol of the paschal lamb sitting inside the Inca symbol of the sun. Looking back to the rear of the church are Luis de Riaños murals which depict the road each soul chooses: glory or hell. The murals were wonderful examples of folkloric art and many of the figures wore Andean dress. Statues of saints, including San Isidro, the patron saint of agriculture, were dressed in Andean clothing and wore human hair wigs.
Once back on the bus, it wasn't long before we passed by Rumicolca, the ancient gate into the city of Cusco.
Soon we found ourselves at the Cusco bus station. Ray and I thanked and tipped our guide. He had been so fantastic; and, tipping must not be the custom because he seemed both flattered and surprised with the tip. It was a very well deserved tip.
Jan 7th, 2006, 07:15 AM
#164
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<b>Photos -- Along the Road, Puno to Cusco</b>
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/264495/text.html
Enjoy! I just love photos!!!
-Sharon
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/264495/text.html
Enjoy! I just love photos!!!
-Sharon
Jan 7th, 2006, 07:19 AM
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cmcfong - Thank you! It's being a delight to sit down, remember and write about this fab trip. I am glad you are enjoying the report.
Stay along for the ride... I'm onto writing about Cusco and our hike from Cusco to Sacsayhuaman. Oh, and the fabulous MAP (<b>M</b>useo <b>A</b>rte de <b>P</b>recolombino).
- Sharon
Stay along for the ride... I'm onto writing about Cusco and our hike from Cusco to Sacsayhuaman. Oh, and the fabulous MAP (<b>M</b>useo <b>A</b>rte de <b>P</b>recolombino).
- Sharon
Jan 7th, 2006, 10:47 AM
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<b>Cusco</b>
Our guide, Jessica from Explorandes, was a bit late meeting us at the bus station. Soon enough she was there and we were driven through the streets of Cusco. I really felt like I was in Cusco when we passed by the magnificent statue of Inca Pachacutec on the way to our hotel, the Picoaga, near the plaza.
http://www.picoagahotel.com/
Ah, the charms of Cusco were waiting. Ray and I both felt much more energetic after this leisurely travel day. Although we had done plenty of exploring we had each napped considerably along the way and were rejuvenated.
High on my list was to visit the newly opened Museum of pre-Columbian Art or MAP, Museo de Arte Precolombino. They were open till 10 PM, so after settling into our rooms, I called to make dinner reservations for 7 PM at the MAP Café. Then we walked up the hill to Plaza de las Nazarenas and ventured inside. What a treat!
One of earth's great collections of pre-Columbian art is the Rafael Larco Herrero collection. There is a fabulous museum in Lima where the bulk of this collection is displayed in giant rooms filled with shelves that reach to the ceiling. The vast variety of items on display at the Lima museum, Museo Arqueológico Rafeal Larco Herrera, is quite overwhelming and I was eager to see a small subset from this collection on elegant display. I was not disappointed. This new museum is world class. Exhibits are labeled in Spanish, English and French. The displays are exquisite and well lit and sometimes mirrors are used to allow studying an object's design. Displays are organized by the various cultures: Nasca, Mochica, Huari, Chancay, Chimu, Inca and Paracus. Most of the pieces on display are ceramics. In addition to the ceramics are artifacts of wood, shell, gold and silver. I was especially taken by the very fine workmanship. Some displays showcased pairs of matching vessels and one large exhibit presented plates all by the same artist with the same design. There is also a fine collection of oil paintings from the Cusqueño School.
Our guide, Jessica from Explorandes, was a bit late meeting us at the bus station. Soon enough she was there and we were driven through the streets of Cusco. I really felt like I was in Cusco when we passed by the magnificent statue of Inca Pachacutec on the way to our hotel, the Picoaga, near the plaza.
http://www.picoagahotel.com/
Ah, the charms of Cusco were waiting. Ray and I both felt much more energetic after this leisurely travel day. Although we had done plenty of exploring we had each napped considerably along the way and were rejuvenated.
High on my list was to visit the newly opened Museum of pre-Columbian Art or MAP, Museo de Arte Precolombino. They were open till 10 PM, so after settling into our rooms, I called to make dinner reservations for 7 PM at the MAP Café. Then we walked up the hill to Plaza de las Nazarenas and ventured inside. What a treat!
One of earth's great collections of pre-Columbian art is the Rafael Larco Herrero collection. There is a fabulous museum in Lima where the bulk of this collection is displayed in giant rooms filled with shelves that reach to the ceiling. The vast variety of items on display at the Lima museum, Museo Arqueológico Rafeal Larco Herrera, is quite overwhelming and I was eager to see a small subset from this collection on elegant display. I was not disappointed. This new museum is world class. Exhibits are labeled in Spanish, English and French. The displays are exquisite and well lit and sometimes mirrors are used to allow studying an object's design. Displays are organized by the various cultures: Nasca, Mochica, Huari, Chancay, Chimu, Inca and Paracus. Most of the pieces on display are ceramics. In addition to the ceramics are artifacts of wood, shell, gold and silver. I was especially taken by the very fine workmanship. Some displays showcased pairs of matching vessels and one large exhibit presented plates all by the same artist with the same design. There is also a fine collection of oil paintings from the Cusqueño School.
Jan 7th, 2006, 10:48 AM
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<b>Cusco, continued</b>
O boy, Ray wants to jump in and say a few words…Here is his perspective:
<i>That evening Sharon and I visited Cusco's newest museum, one she had been looking forward to the entire trip. It is the Museo de Arte Precolombio, or MAP, on the Plaza de Nazarenas. The venue is a 500-year-old conquistador's mansion built over an even earlier Inca ceremonial court. The thick white adobe walls of the building's rooms showcase examples of artifacts of the many pre-Colombian cultures, selected for their beauty rather than historical importance. The visitor is invited to appreciate the ceramics and jewelry as though they were in a museum of modern art, rather than the context of primitive art. I enjoyed the new spin on these objects, though some of the written explanations assigned to them by the museum struck me as a little pretentious. (Example: "One finds oneself virtually deprived of the rudimentary elements of esthetic appraisal required to assimilate the magnitude of these extraordinary objects."
The final displays in the museum were oil paintings of the post conquest Cusco school, showing native artists painting European themes using European techniques and styles. This display in particular haunted me for several days afterwards, though I could not quite figure out why. Thinking back on it now (almost a year later) I think it had something to do with the Peruvian artists not quite "getting" the European styles. They seemed to have learned the techniques well and could replicate what the Spanish could do, but were unable to capture the creativity and spark in the new mediums that they had shown in their older traditional crafts.
We broke up our visit with dinner at the museum restaurant, a long, rectangular, glassy fish tank like structure planted in the otherwise graceful central courtyard of the mansion. We dined on trout, lamb, and Chilean red wine, with a tasty appetizer of alpaca. Good, but pricey. (123.50 Soles)</i>
O boy, Ray wants to jump in and say a few words…Here is his perspective:
<i>That evening Sharon and I visited Cusco's newest museum, one she had been looking forward to the entire trip. It is the Museo de Arte Precolombio, or MAP, on the Plaza de Nazarenas. The venue is a 500-year-old conquistador's mansion built over an even earlier Inca ceremonial court. The thick white adobe walls of the building's rooms showcase examples of artifacts of the many pre-Colombian cultures, selected for their beauty rather than historical importance. The visitor is invited to appreciate the ceramics and jewelry as though they were in a museum of modern art, rather than the context of primitive art. I enjoyed the new spin on these objects, though some of the written explanations assigned to them by the museum struck me as a little pretentious. (Example: "One finds oneself virtually deprived of the rudimentary elements of esthetic appraisal required to assimilate the magnitude of these extraordinary objects."
The final displays in the museum were oil paintings of the post conquest Cusco school, showing native artists painting European themes using European techniques and styles. This display in particular haunted me for several days afterwards, though I could not quite figure out why. Thinking back on it now (almost a year later) I think it had something to do with the Peruvian artists not quite "getting" the European styles. They seemed to have learned the techniques well and could replicate what the Spanish could do, but were unable to capture the creativity and spark in the new mediums that they had shown in their older traditional crafts.
We broke up our visit with dinner at the museum restaurant, a long, rectangular, glassy fish tank like structure planted in the otherwise graceful central courtyard of the mansion. We dined on trout, lamb, and Chilean red wine, with a tasty appetizer of alpaca. Good, but pricey. (123.50 Soles)</i>
Jan 7th, 2006, 10:52 AM
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<b>Cusco, continued</b>
Well, we both certainly enjoyed our time here. And, if Ray and I have intrigued you to the point where you would like to know more, you can check out these URLs:
http://map-cafe.com/
The web site depicts some of the gallery's highlights and includes menu information
http://map.perucultural.org.pe/home_en.html
Phenomenal website for the MAP. Includes clear photographs of objects and their descriptions by gallery.
http://museolarco.perucultural.org.pe/index.html
Website for the museum in Lima, Museo Arqueológico Rafeal Larco Herrera - This fabulous site is in Spanish, English and French. However, if you want to see the on-line catalog, the text is only available in Spanish. The catalog is great because you can see front and side views of the objects and read a description for each. This is a terrific way to explore this truly fine collection.
On the way back to our hotel we lingered in the plaza for 30 to 45 minutes to watch the activity, enjoy the Inca architecture and window shop.
Well, we both certainly enjoyed our time here. And, if Ray and I have intrigued you to the point where you would like to know more, you can check out these URLs:
http://map-cafe.com/
The web site depicts some of the gallery's highlights and includes menu information
http://map.perucultural.org.pe/home_en.html
Phenomenal website for the MAP. Includes clear photographs of objects and their descriptions by gallery.
http://museolarco.perucultural.org.pe/index.html
Website for the museum in Lima, Museo Arqueológico Rafeal Larco Herrera - This fabulous site is in Spanish, English and French. However, if you want to see the on-line catalog, the text is only available in Spanish. The catalog is great because you can see front and side views of the objects and read a description for each. This is a terrific way to explore this truly fine collection.
On the way back to our hotel we lingered in the plaza for 30 to 45 minutes to watch the activity, enjoy the Inca architecture and window shop.
Jan 7th, 2006, 01:29 PM
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<b>Cusco, Continued</b>
Having spent a good bit of time in Cusco during our 1999 trip we were here to relish in the great atmosphere Cusco provides. We woke early the next morning, Friday February 18, eager to set out. First stop was Convento Santo Domingo. Of interest here is the Inca architecture, a fine collection of paintings, and most importantly, the archaeological ruins of the Temple of the Sun, Coricancha. We ventured first into the convent and enjoyed the large display room with all the paintings and sculpture. Labels were in Spanish and quite informative. I was particularly struck by one painting, "Jesus Carango la Cruz (Via Cruces)". This large seventeenth century painting shows Christ on the way to Calgary. The painting style and colors were typical of the Cusco school, where copies are made of Spanish paintings and the figures are all of Europeans. At closer inspection this one was different. In the extreme left corner of the painting is an Andean woman, possibly the one who commissioned the painting. It is believed that she was from Inca nobility and she is painted wearing indigenous textiles and holds a tumi and a rosary.
Large oil paintings depicting the life of Saint Francis were hung around the walls of the elegant courtyard. These paintings have all been restored since we saw them in 1999.
We left this more modern Colonial world and ventured into the Inca Coricancha. Exploring ruins ignites my imagination. Seeing these ruins a second time, I was still quite impressed with the Inca artistic style – form: the beauty of form echoing and framing the landscape – the sacred mountains and seasonal rhythm. Their art forever echoes the beauty of His creation. Ah, to explore!
http://peru.op.org/provincia/convent...a/krecibo.html
in Spanish, good descriptions and lots of images)
Having spent a good bit of time in Cusco during our 1999 trip we were here to relish in the great atmosphere Cusco provides. We woke early the next morning, Friday February 18, eager to set out. First stop was Convento Santo Domingo. Of interest here is the Inca architecture, a fine collection of paintings, and most importantly, the archaeological ruins of the Temple of the Sun, Coricancha. We ventured first into the convent and enjoyed the large display room with all the paintings and sculpture. Labels were in Spanish and quite informative. I was particularly struck by one painting, "Jesus Carango la Cruz (Via Cruces)". This large seventeenth century painting shows Christ on the way to Calgary. The painting style and colors were typical of the Cusco school, where copies are made of Spanish paintings and the figures are all of Europeans. At closer inspection this one was different. In the extreme left corner of the painting is an Andean woman, possibly the one who commissioned the painting. It is believed that she was from Inca nobility and she is painted wearing indigenous textiles and holds a tumi and a rosary.
Large oil paintings depicting the life of Saint Francis were hung around the walls of the elegant courtyard. These paintings have all been restored since we saw them in 1999.
We left this more modern Colonial world and ventured into the Inca Coricancha. Exploring ruins ignites my imagination. Seeing these ruins a second time, I was still quite impressed with the Inca artistic style – form: the beauty of form echoing and framing the landscape – the sacred mountains and seasonal rhythm. Their art forever echoes the beauty of His creation. Ah, to explore!
http://peru.op.org/provincia/convent...a/krecibo.html
in Spanish, good descriptions and lots of images)
Jan 7th, 2006, 01:32 PM
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<b>Cusco, Continued</b>
Who could spend time in Cusco and not want to see (yes, see again and again) the huge Last Supper painting hanging in Cusco's Cathedral which features guinea pig as a main dish? And, to see all that silver and gold and the amazing collection of art displayed inside? We spent several hours in this vast space then stopped for snacks and coffee at Cafe Payllu, a great place to watch all the activity on the plaza.
After a bit of rest, we spent the rest of the day shopping and discovered Cusco's prices were certainly higher than those in Bolivia. We ended this day at Cusco's Chez Maggy for pizza & beer at 8:00 PM. An Andean band came in and played fabulous music. We enjoyed a variety of sounds: ukulele, guitar, flutes and various sizes of pan pipes. Some of their music was strictly instrumental, some vocal and some with lots of mouth sounds. The variety of mouth sounds integrated into their music was entertaining: pops, clicks, yaw-yaw-yaw chants, bird-like whistles, monkey howls, yelps, tick-tocking, and chants of hoi-hoi-hoi---hoi-hoi. (41.50 Soles)
Who could spend time in Cusco and not want to see (yes, see again and again) the huge Last Supper painting hanging in Cusco's Cathedral which features guinea pig as a main dish? And, to see all that silver and gold and the amazing collection of art displayed inside? We spent several hours in this vast space then stopped for snacks and coffee at Cafe Payllu, a great place to watch all the activity on the plaza.
After a bit of rest, we spent the rest of the day shopping and discovered Cusco's prices were certainly higher than those in Bolivia. We ended this day at Cusco's Chez Maggy for pizza & beer at 8:00 PM. An Andean band came in and played fabulous music. We enjoyed a variety of sounds: ukulele, guitar, flutes and various sizes of pan pipes. Some of their music was strictly instrumental, some vocal and some with lots of mouth sounds. The variety of mouth sounds integrated into their music was entertaining: pops, clicks, yaw-yaw-yaw chants, bird-like whistles, monkey howls, yelps, tick-tocking, and chants of hoi-hoi-hoi---hoi-hoi. (41.50 Soles)
Jan 7th, 2006, 03:52 PM
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<b>Cusco - continued</b>
Saturday, February 17th, after a hearty breakfast buffet at the Picoaga we hiked to Sacsayhuaman. The hike's elevation change echoed an exponential graph as we climbed; yet, once at Sacsayhuaman we finally leveled off. We hiked about an hour from the hotel to the top of the ruins. Our guidebook (Peter Frost's "Exploring Cusco" had indicated this was a thirty-minute hike. I suppose I needed to catch my breath a few times and Ray was patient to wait for me. I also enjoyed a leisurely chat with the ticket-taker at the ruin's entrance to help her practice English. It seemed like we had climbed countless stairs; yet, when I counted them on the way back down, I was a bit disappointed to learn there were only 153 steps and a 520 foot ascent.
Once at the top of our trail to Sacsayhuaman, which leads you well inside the ruins, we could see the main entrance in the distance. It was at the main entrance where families with small children, llamas and alpaca waited in their native finery holding cute puppies, sported parrots on their heads and tended baby alpaca and baby llama. This is all in a good day's work and the self-appointed greeting committee was oh so ready for the tourist's photo op and to earn a little "propina", or tip. Many free agent guides walked the ruins looking for people they could take on a tour of Sacsayhauman. An angry sky threatened stormy weather. It rained for awhile then let up. Later that afternoon we were treated to blue skies.
Some youngsters were eager to lead us to the tunnels; which would have been fun. We had done that on our first trip, and had different goals for this journey. Well, after much persistence and pleading from the young guides ever so eager to show us the tunnels and each time either Ray or I declining, I firmly told them in Spanish to find some other tourists to ask. We continued our leisurely stroll through the ruins and picked up odd bits of conversation and speeches from the guides as they work with other tourists or large groups being shuttled quickly through. It's always interesting to hear some of the fantastical stories and legends these guides present.
Saturday, February 17th, after a hearty breakfast buffet at the Picoaga we hiked to Sacsayhuaman. The hike's elevation change echoed an exponential graph as we climbed; yet, once at Sacsayhuaman we finally leveled off. We hiked about an hour from the hotel to the top of the ruins. Our guidebook (Peter Frost's "Exploring Cusco"
had indicated this was a thirty-minute hike. I suppose I needed to catch my breath a few times and Ray was patient to wait for me. I also enjoyed a leisurely chat with the ticket-taker at the ruin's entrance to help her practice English. It seemed like we had climbed countless stairs; yet, when I counted them on the way back down, I was a bit disappointed to learn there were only 153 steps and a 520 foot ascent. Once at the top of our trail to Sacsayhuaman, which leads you well inside the ruins, we could see the main entrance in the distance. It was at the main entrance where families with small children, llamas and alpaca waited in their native finery holding cute puppies, sported parrots on their heads and tended baby alpaca and baby llama. This is all in a good day's work and the self-appointed greeting committee was oh so ready for the tourist's photo op and to earn a little "propina", or tip. Many free agent guides walked the ruins looking for people they could take on a tour of Sacsayhauman. An angry sky threatened stormy weather. It rained for awhile then let up. Later that afternoon we were treated to blue skies.
Some youngsters were eager to lead us to the tunnels; which would have been fun. We had done that on our first trip, and had different goals for this journey. Well, after much persistence and pleading from the young guides ever so eager to show us the tunnels and each time either Ray or I declining, I firmly told them in Spanish to find some other tourists to ask. We continued our leisurely stroll through the ruins and picked up odd bits of conversation and speeches from the guides as they work with other tourists or large groups being shuttled quickly through. It's always interesting to hear some of the fantastical stories and legends these guides present.
Jan 7th, 2006, 03:53 PM
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<b>Cusco, Continued</b>
We climbed to the top of the Inca zigzag terraces and enjoyed a bird's-eye view of the beautiful city of Cusco, the Inca "Navel of the Earth". Our walk followed along the rim and east of the ruins where we explored an area that had been excavated since our last trip. Ray recognized the area from a description John Hemming had written about in his book, "The Conquest of the Inca" as the place where the Spanish defeated the Inca. We examined the geography as Ray read aloud a historical account from Peter Frost's book, "Exploring Cusco".which used Hemming's history as source material. While exploring this area we met a pleasant couple from Australia and visited. Then, we headed to the Rodadero section, where we enjoyed some snacks and watched the locals at play. Finally, we walked along the tourist-bus road to the shops outside the ruins and on toward Qenko, another set of Inca Ruins. Even though we had a bit of rain in the morning at Sacsayhuaman, it was wonderful to walk along and through the verdant green pastures filled with colorful wildflowers. In many ways it was a blessing to visit Peru during the rainy season. We opted to turn back before reaching Qenko and altered our return route to Sacsayhuaman in order to walk pass the large statue of Christ that overlooks Cusco. Then, we headed back the way we had come.
If you are interested in doing the hike, it is fairly straightforward. From the Plaza de Armas simply walk up Procuadures then hang a right on Waynapata where you will climb a series of stairs. The stairs will continue up Waynapata, but at Resbalosa make a left and climb all those steps until you find yourself in front of San Cristobal Church. You will see a paved road at a right angle to you. (This is the main road to Sacsayhuaman. Be sure to watch out for traffic here!) Turn right and walk along this road for a little while. Follow this road around a wide bend and then to your right at a sharpish turn in the road where you will see a whole series of more steps to your right. Turn off the main road here and…. yes, climb all these steps. Be sure to pay the entrance fee or show your Cusco Tourist ticket as you pass by the ticket booth. You will climb several more steps and follow a steep path along a gurgling creek. Most likely you will also hear the roufus collard sparrow's song.
We climbed to the top of the Inca zigzag terraces and enjoyed a bird's-eye view of the beautiful city of Cusco, the Inca "Navel of the Earth". Our walk followed along the rim and east of the ruins where we explored an area that had been excavated since our last trip. Ray recognized the area from a description John Hemming had written about in his book, "The Conquest of the Inca" as the place where the Spanish defeated the Inca. We examined the geography as Ray read aloud a historical account from Peter Frost's book, "Exploring Cusco".which used Hemming's history as source material. While exploring this area we met a pleasant couple from Australia and visited. Then, we headed to the Rodadero section, where we enjoyed some snacks and watched the locals at play. Finally, we walked along the tourist-bus road to the shops outside the ruins and on toward Qenko, another set of Inca Ruins. Even though we had a bit of rain in the morning at Sacsayhuaman, it was wonderful to walk along and through the verdant green pastures filled with colorful wildflowers. In many ways it was a blessing to visit Peru during the rainy season. We opted to turn back before reaching Qenko and altered our return route to Sacsayhuaman in order to walk pass the large statue of Christ that overlooks Cusco. Then, we headed back the way we had come.
If you are interested in doing the hike, it is fairly straightforward. From the Plaza de Armas simply walk up Procuadures then hang a right on Waynapata where you will climb a series of stairs. The stairs will continue up Waynapata, but at Resbalosa make a left and climb all those steps until you find yourself in front of San Cristobal Church. You will see a paved road at a right angle to you. (This is the main road to Sacsayhuaman. Be sure to watch out for traffic here!) Turn right and walk along this road for a little while. Follow this road around a wide bend and then to your right at a sharpish turn in the road where you will see a whole series of more steps to your right. Turn off the main road here and…. yes, climb all these steps. Be sure to pay the entrance fee or show your Cusco Tourist ticket as you pass by the ticket booth. You will climb several more steps and follow a steep path along a gurgling creek. Most likely you will also hear the roufus collard sparrow's song.
Jan 21st, 2006, 01:40 PM
#173
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<b>Cusco, Continued</b>
After returning from Sacsayhuaman, we took a siesta in our room then headed over to mass at Santa Teresa, a beautiful Colonial church with wood floors and Inca stone walls. No photos were allowed so as I waited for mass to begin, I made a few notes about the interior.
My overall impression was one of quiet, simple and austere surroundings where the congregation sat beautifully contrasting against a glorious altar. Elements of Inca stonework, well-worn wood flooring and a vaulted brick ceiling complemented each other. Along the walls at a height of about 15 or 16 feet a row of paintings depicted the life of St. Teresa. These were five or six feet square and were hung side by side with only a frame to separate each painting. The images graced each side of the interior walls. Beneath these large paintings were simple paintings (about 8 x 14 inches in size) showing the Stations of the Cross. These were hung about seven or eight feet from the floor.
All things lavish were on the altar. We had arrived quite early for mass and were in time for Benediction. The Eucharist was exposed in a gold monstrance with silver fabric, which would normally encase the tabernacle, tied back to reveal a luxuriant red background. A lamb sat atop the large silver tabernacle about 20 or 25 feet from the tabernacle's base. Radiant gold beams set against red streamed from the lamb and below these beams were the Madonna and Child. Above the lamb hung a silver flag, which hung at an angle and draped across the lamb's left shoulder. Above that and set into the glorious retablo was a painting of "Senor de Los Temblores", or "Lord of the Earthquakes. And, at the very top of the retablo was God the Father. Next to the base of the tabernacle white lilies and other flowers filled a dozen different vases. St. Teresa and one other saint's statue were the only statues set into the gold & silver Baroque retablo behind the altar. The rest of the retablo was decorated with a whole series of fine oil paintings.
Two small side altars, also with lots of gold in the Baroque style, complemented the main altar. To the left of the altar a retablo featured the Crucifixion. A side altar to the right was dedicated to St. Joseph holding the child Jesus.
As Benediction ended, a nun placed a three-foot tall crucifix in front of the tabernacle. Then, an alter server used a ladder to remove two candelabras which had been placed and lit for Benediction.
The altar had two simple candles and a simple white lace cloth. During mass, cloistered nuns sang beautifully behind their wooden screen and were accompanied by the bellows of an old organ. The Saturday evening mass was well attended and the church was filled with locals.
After returning from Sacsayhuaman, we took a siesta in our room then headed over to mass at Santa Teresa, a beautiful Colonial church with wood floors and Inca stone walls. No photos were allowed so as I waited for mass to begin, I made a few notes about the interior.
My overall impression was one of quiet, simple and austere surroundings where the congregation sat beautifully contrasting against a glorious altar. Elements of Inca stonework, well-worn wood flooring and a vaulted brick ceiling complemented each other. Along the walls at a height of about 15 or 16 feet a row of paintings depicted the life of St. Teresa. These were five or six feet square and were hung side by side with only a frame to separate each painting. The images graced each side of the interior walls. Beneath these large paintings were simple paintings (about 8 x 14 inches in size) showing the Stations of the Cross. These were hung about seven or eight feet from the floor.
All things lavish were on the altar. We had arrived quite early for mass and were in time for Benediction. The Eucharist was exposed in a gold monstrance with silver fabric, which would normally encase the tabernacle, tied back to reveal a luxuriant red background. A lamb sat atop the large silver tabernacle about 20 or 25 feet from the tabernacle's base. Radiant gold beams set against red streamed from the lamb and below these beams were the Madonna and Child. Above the lamb hung a silver flag, which hung at an angle and draped across the lamb's left shoulder. Above that and set into the glorious retablo was a painting of "Senor de Los Temblores", or "Lord of the Earthquakes. And, at the very top of the retablo was God the Father. Next to the base of the tabernacle white lilies and other flowers filled a dozen different vases. St. Teresa and one other saint's statue were the only statues set into the gold & silver Baroque retablo behind the altar. The rest of the retablo was decorated with a whole series of fine oil paintings.
Two small side altars, also with lots of gold in the Baroque style, complemented the main altar. To the left of the altar a retablo featured the Crucifixion. A side altar to the right was dedicated to St. Joseph holding the child Jesus.
As Benediction ended, a nun placed a three-foot tall crucifix in front of the tabernacle. Then, an alter server used a ladder to remove two candelabras which had been placed and lit for Benediction.
The altar had two simple candles and a simple white lace cloth. During mass, cloistered nuns sang beautifully behind their wooden screen and were accompanied by the bellows of an old organ. The Saturday evening mass was well attended and the church was filled with locals.
Jan 21st, 2006, 01:41 PM
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<b>Cusco, continued</b>
After mass, Ray and I continued our shopping with the entire goal being to find Ray a fine alpaca sweater. We had been in every Alpaca III store in town. Well, he knew all the merchandise in every shop and was ready to decide.
We stopped in a courtyard on Calle Garcilaso near Heladeros with lots of handicraft shops where I purchased a few textiles. The woman who ran this shop told me the best way to wash the alpaca was to hand wash with shampoo and a handful of salt. When I pressed her to ask about how much salt, she indicated a measurement on her hand, which would be about a tablespoon. I have always been satisfied with Woolite in the washer set to the delicate cycle. We pressed on and shopped in earnest for Ray. He decided on two sweaters and they serve as nice trip reminders.
Our last dinner in Cusco was at Pachacutec, which is right on the plaza. And, although they sported several stickers on their front window that they gave discounts for members of the South American Explorer's Club, they would not honor the discount. (100 Soles for dinner with wine.)
The next morning, Sunday February 20th, we felt our trip come crashing to a halt. Funny how after so many days on the road we could think this would go on forever. We woke early, enjoyed a leisurely buffet breakfast at the Picoaga, then were met by the Explorandes agent, Jessica, who took us to the airport. Our Lan Peru flight to Lima was about 25 minutes late taking off and we enjoyed a very comfortable ride in an Airbus 320 with magnificent views of the Andes.
After mass, Ray and I continued our shopping with the entire goal being to find Ray a fine alpaca sweater. We had been in every Alpaca III store in town. Well, he knew all the merchandise in every shop and was ready to decide.
We stopped in a courtyard on Calle Garcilaso near Heladeros with lots of handicraft shops where I purchased a few textiles. The woman who ran this shop told me the best way to wash the alpaca was to hand wash with shampoo and a handful of salt. When I pressed her to ask about how much salt, she indicated a measurement on her hand, which would be about a tablespoon. I have always been satisfied with Woolite in the washer set to the delicate cycle. We pressed on and shopped in earnest for Ray. He decided on two sweaters and they serve as nice trip reminders.
Our last dinner in Cusco was at Pachacutec, which is right on the plaza. And, although they sported several stickers on their front window that they gave discounts for members of the South American Explorer's Club, they would not honor the discount. (100 Soles for dinner with wine.)
The next morning, Sunday February 20th, we felt our trip come crashing to a halt. Funny how after so many days on the road we could think this would go on forever. We woke early, enjoyed a leisurely buffet breakfast at the Picoaga, then were met by the Explorandes agent, Jessica, who took us to the airport. Our Lan Peru flight to Lima was about 25 minutes late taking off and we enjoyed a very comfortable ride in an Airbus 320 with magnificent views of the Andes.
Jan 21st, 2006, 01:43 PM
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<b>Lima</b>
The bulk of Sunday was spent hanging around Lima. We caught a taxi over to the Hotel Manhattan where we had day use. This was splendid because it provided a place to crash and relax between excursions. Hotel Manhattan fixed us up with a good taxi driver, Elvis Estrada. Elvis became a quick friend and we enjoyed discussing various topics with him as we traveled from place to place. The fare seemed to always be 15 Soles, no matter the distance. Some of the trips were 15 minutes others were 35 or 40. We learned his family has a tradition of naming family members after famous people. His father named him "Elvis" after Elvis Presley and Elvis named his son, "Omar", after Omar Sharif. You can contact Elvis in Lima at 990-80602 (his mobile phone, so 8 digits is correct). Elvis speaks limited English.
We toured the Museo de la Nacion, which is one of the few highlights in Lima, which we had missed on our previous trip. The museum was interesting and provided a good overview of the peoples and cultures of Peru.
Sunday evening we enjoyed a leisurely dinner overlooking the Pacific at La Rosa Nautica, which is in the most stunning restaurant location in Lima. The restaurant is built on a pier jutting out into the Pacific and the ocean roared underneath the restaurant while we dined. It was delightful to watch the surfers, the birds, the waves and sunset.
http://www.larosanautica.com/rn_homeing.html
The bulk of Sunday was spent hanging around Lima. We caught a taxi over to the Hotel Manhattan where we had day use. This was splendid because it provided a place to crash and relax between excursions. Hotel Manhattan fixed us up with a good taxi driver, Elvis Estrada. Elvis became a quick friend and we enjoyed discussing various topics with him as we traveled from place to place. The fare seemed to always be 15 Soles, no matter the distance. Some of the trips were 15 minutes others were 35 or 40. We learned his family has a tradition of naming family members after famous people. His father named him "Elvis" after Elvis Presley and Elvis named his son, "Omar", after Omar Sharif. You can contact Elvis in Lima at 990-80602 (his mobile phone, so 8 digits is correct). Elvis speaks limited English.
We toured the Museo de la Nacion, which is one of the few highlights in Lima, which we had missed on our previous trip. The museum was interesting and provided a good overview of the peoples and cultures of Peru.
Sunday evening we enjoyed a leisurely dinner overlooking the Pacific at La Rosa Nautica, which is in the most stunning restaurant location in Lima. The restaurant is built on a pier jutting out into the Pacific and the ocean roared underneath the restaurant while we dined. It was delightful to watch the surfers, the birds, the waves and sunset.
http://www.larosanautica.com/rn_homeing.html
Jan 21st, 2006, 01:44 PM
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Jan 21st, 2006, 01:46 PM
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<b>The End</b>
We experienced so much variety in such a short period of time: a mere 24 days. And, like all wonderful vacations, this one also ended.
I hope you enjoyed my trip report. I certainly enjoyed travelling back to these places in my mind as I wrote.
- Sharon
We experienced so much variety in such a short period of time: a mere 24 days. And, like all wonderful vacations, this one also ended.
I hope you enjoyed my trip report. I certainly enjoyed travelling back to these places in my mind as I wrote.
- Sharon
Jan 21st, 2006, 04:23 PM
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Thanks for letting me know you have been following along, bardo1. It's good to know that there are readers out there!
- Sharon
If anyone has any questions, I am happy to field them.
- Sharon
If anyone has any questions, I am happy to field them.
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SharonNRayMc
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Mar 4th, 2005 09:16 AM
