SharonNRayMc: Trip Report - 24 days on the road: Miami, Jupiter, Bolivia and Peru... and what some folks will do to see the Devil Dance! (Part 2)
May 18th, 2005, 07:01 PM
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<b>Sucre</b>
We left Potosí Saturday morning, Feb 12. It was a bit of a rainy morning. In just a few hours we had dropped over 5000 feet: Ray's altimeter read in at 7855 feet. The scenery was ever changing as we dropped lower and lower in elevation. We stopped at Puente Méndez along the coffee colored Pilcomayo River to stretch our legs and admired an old suspension bridge.
After our mid-morning stretch, we climbed back on the bus and made our way to Glorieta Mansion. This castle-like home was built in the 1890's by a well-traveled couple, Francisco and Clotilde Argandoña, who wanted to show Bolivians the architectural styles of Europe. The result is a mix of styles: Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassicists and Mudejar. One of the rooms has a series of paintings, which depict Pope Leon XIII with the couple. Pope Leon XIII gave them the name, Prince and Princess of Glorieta in honor of their charitable work. I took time to wander the lovely grounds amidst the palm trees, green grass and fountains. As I walked, a small brass band played the tune for the La Diablada dance just across a little stream.
Seven kilometers later we found ourselves in the "Cuidad Blanca" or "White City", as Sucre is nicknamed. The entire city is covered with red-tiled white washed buildings. Sucre was founded in 1538 and is another UNESCO World Heritage Site with tremendous colonial architecture. We arrived in time for lunch and had a quick bite at the Joy Ride Café before touring the city.
Around the main plaza we toured Casa de la Libertad and the Palacio de la Prefectura. Casa de la Libertad is a former Jesuit convent that was built in 1621 and is where the Bolivian declaration of independence was signed on August 6, 1825. Inside the beautiful colonial building we saw portraits of many of Bolivia's heroes, presidents, their declaration of independence and other items of historical significance. After leaving Casa de la Libertad, we walked over to the Palacio de la Prefectura, a government building, and after climbing several flights of stairs, enjoyed the view from its roof.
We left Potosí Saturday morning, Feb 12. It was a bit of a rainy morning. In just a few hours we had dropped over 5000 feet: Ray's altimeter read in at 7855 feet. The scenery was ever changing as we dropped lower and lower in elevation. We stopped at Puente Méndez along the coffee colored Pilcomayo River to stretch our legs and admired an old suspension bridge.
After our mid-morning stretch, we climbed back on the bus and made our way to Glorieta Mansion. This castle-like home was built in the 1890's by a well-traveled couple, Francisco and Clotilde Argandoña, who wanted to show Bolivians the architectural styles of Europe. The result is a mix of styles: Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassicists and Mudejar. One of the rooms has a series of paintings, which depict Pope Leon XIII with the couple. Pope Leon XIII gave them the name, Prince and Princess of Glorieta in honor of their charitable work. I took time to wander the lovely grounds amidst the palm trees, green grass and fountains. As I walked, a small brass band played the tune for the La Diablada dance just across a little stream.
Seven kilometers later we found ourselves in the "Cuidad Blanca" or "White City", as Sucre is nicknamed. The entire city is covered with red-tiled white washed buildings. Sucre was founded in 1538 and is another UNESCO World Heritage Site with tremendous colonial architecture. We arrived in time for lunch and had a quick bite at the Joy Ride Café before touring the city.
Around the main plaza we toured Casa de la Libertad and the Palacio de la Prefectura. Casa de la Libertad is a former Jesuit convent that was built in 1621 and is where the Bolivian declaration of independence was signed on August 6, 1825. Inside the beautiful colonial building we saw portraits of many of Bolivia's heroes, presidents, their declaration of independence and other items of historical significance. After leaving Casa de la Libertad, we walked over to the Palacio de la Prefectura, a government building, and after climbing several flights of stairs, enjoyed the view from its roof.
May 18th, 2005, 07:03 PM
#122
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<b>Sucre - Cont'd <\b>
Our next stop was the textile museum where we saw nice displays of Jacl & Tarabuco weavings and then we headed to the mirador at Recoleta Monastery. Ray and I opted out of the return journey to the hotel so we could soak in Sucre's beauty. We ventured into Café Gormet Mirador, sat outdoors amongst the geraniums and visited while enjoying the birds-eye view of Sucre.
We enjoyed a steep downhill walk back to the town's center. We passed by a neighborhood park dedicated to Admiral Grau, naval hero of the 19th century War of the Pacific. We wandered into some textile shops, explored the plaza, and purchased chocolates at Para Ti. We attended mass at San Miguel church and enjoyed an amazing dinner at Maxims.
The next day (Sunday) we woke early (6:30 AM), ate a good breakfast and then Ray and I made a quick dash to the Cathedral to see the religious artwork. Our main destination point within the Cathedral was the Lady of Guadelupe painting that is covered in precious jewels. It was so beautiful! I would have loved to have some quiet time there. But, the tour bus was scheduled to leave from the hotel at 8 am.
We made it back to the hotel with plenty of time to spare.
</b>
Our next stop was the textile museum where we saw nice displays of Jacl & Tarabuco weavings and then we headed to the mirador at Recoleta Monastery. Ray and I opted out of the return journey to the hotel so we could soak in Sucre's beauty. We ventured into Café Gormet Mirador, sat outdoors amongst the geraniums and visited while enjoying the birds-eye view of Sucre.
We enjoyed a steep downhill walk back to the town's center. We passed by a neighborhood park dedicated to Admiral Grau, naval hero of the 19th century War of the Pacific. We wandered into some textile shops, explored the plaza, and purchased chocolates at Para Ti. We attended mass at San Miguel church and enjoyed an amazing dinner at Maxims.
The next day (Sunday) we woke early (6:30 AM), ate a good breakfast and then Ray and I made a quick dash to the Cathedral to see the religious artwork. Our main destination point within the Cathedral was the Lady of Guadelupe painting that is covered in precious jewels. It was so beautiful! I would have loved to have some quiet time there. But, the tour bus was scheduled to leave from the hotel at 8 am.
We made it back to the hotel with plenty of time to spare.
</b>
May 18th, 2005, 07:04 PM
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May 18th, 2005, 07:06 PM
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<b>Tarabuco Sunday Market </b>
The first stop was Tarabuco market, a large indigenous market near Sucre. I was somewhat disappointed in the market because the prices were high and the quality was low: not a good combination, in my book. We were told it was also a slower market the first Sunday after carnival celebrations. We had about two and a half-hours at the market. I took some great photos; then, Ray and I wandered around the town a bit and walked up to a deserted train station.
Photos - http://worldisround.com/articles/182063/index.html
The first stop was Tarabuco market, a large indigenous market near Sucre. I was somewhat disappointed in the market because the prices were high and the quality was low: not a good combination, in my book. We were told it was also a slower market the first Sunday after carnival celebrations. We had about two and a half-hours at the market. I took some great photos; then, Ray and I wandered around the town a bit and walked up to a deserted train station.
Photos - http://worldisround.com/articles/182063/index.html
May 18th, 2005, 07:09 PM
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<b>Jatun Yampara</b>
Next, we drove to a nearby Quechua village, Jatun Yampara. 101 families live here and there are roughly 4 to 5 people per family. The village is very rural, so the dwelling spaces are quite a bit apart and surrounded by lots of farmland. I should mention that Sucre is about 9500 feet high and that this village was at 10,720 feet. (The market we went to at Tarabuco was at 11,070 feet. Potosí was even higher at 12,907 feet.) At this point, after being in Bolivia for thirteen days, Ray and I were acclimated to these high altitudes.
The chief from the village saw our bus coming down the dirt and grass road and started running with his Andean footplow to meet us. He was very excited because he wanted us to join him in blessing his flowering potato crop. Evidently pachamama will provide a bigger crop depending on the number of people who join in to bless the flowering plants.
So, we all poured chicha (a corn-brew like sweetish beer) on the ground around the four corners of the mesa (the offering that the chief had prepared). The mesa was burning a quiet smoke. His wife, children and other villagers joined in the blessing. We were festooned with paper ribbon garland around our necks, offered a plastic cup of chicha, made the offering to pachamama by pouring some of the chicha on each of the four corners of the smoking offering. Then, we drank a bit of the chicha. (It was quite sweet and I did not like it.) We were each sprinkled with confetti and had to take our sun hats off to receive this blessing from the chief's wife. While this was going on, the chief held firecrackers in his hand and set them off. We were all offered another cup of chicha to drink.
Next, we drove to a nearby Quechua village, Jatun Yampara. 101 families live here and there are roughly 4 to 5 people per family. The village is very rural, so the dwelling spaces are quite a bit apart and surrounded by lots of farmland. I should mention that Sucre is about 9500 feet high and that this village was at 10,720 feet. (The market we went to at Tarabuco was at 11,070 feet. Potosí was even higher at 12,907 feet.) At this point, after being in Bolivia for thirteen days, Ray and I were acclimated to these high altitudes.
The chief from the village saw our bus coming down the dirt and grass road and started running with his Andean footplow to meet us. He was very excited because he wanted us to join him in blessing his flowering potato crop. Evidently pachamama will provide a bigger crop depending on the number of people who join in to bless the flowering plants.
So, we all poured chicha (a corn-brew like sweetish beer) on the ground around the four corners of the mesa (the offering that the chief had prepared). The mesa was burning a quiet smoke. His wife, children and other villagers joined in the blessing. We were festooned with paper ribbon garland around our necks, offered a plastic cup of chicha, made the offering to pachamama by pouring some of the chicha on each of the four corners of the smoking offering. Then, we drank a bit of the chicha. (It was quite sweet and I did not like it.) We were each sprinkled with confetti and had to take our sun hats off to receive this blessing from the chief's wife. While this was going on, the chief held firecrackers in his hand and set them off. We were all offered another cup of chicha to drink.
May 18th, 2005, 07:10 PM
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<b>Jatun Yampara - Continued </b>
As others were making their offering to pachamama, Ray and I each spotted Andean Condors overhead. I had looked up and seen a white collared bird. About the same time Ray tapped my shoulder and asked, "Sharon, does that look like a condor to you?"
Our trip leader, Ric, had never seen condors in this spot before. He had overheard Ray and said it was possible. Ric asked the group, "Does anyone have binoculars? Can you see if the wings are tipping up?"
As I looked at this beautiful white-collared bird, I thought, omigosh, Daddy sent me a condor! Then, I spotted another one, which joined the first bird in circling overhead. I watched in amazement as tears rolled down my face. Soon, Ric confirmed that these were indeed condors and the group was so excited! It would be just like Daddy to send me an Andean Condor in such a beautiful location during a blessing of a potato crop! Before long, a third condor joined the circle. At this point I went back to the bus to grab my binoculars.
When I arrived back for a better view aided by my binoculars, I could not spot the birds. The entire group had gone over to a memorial to the villager's ancestors. We passed by a couple of these and then, after passing the last one I saw the magnificent collared bird rising up from behind the village church. I watched him ascend. Then, when it was mostly too high up for any sort of good photo, I tried to capture an image on my digital camera. What an amazing moment!
We had lunch in this village and enjoyed a soup-style chicken dish with noodles, potato and vegetables cooked in chicha, a Quechua version of Coq au Vin. The Quechua name of the soup is Cjoko de Pollo. It was quite tasty and served with bread. We all had bottled water for beverage. Dessert was peaches and apples. Ray and I were too full to enjoy a piece of fruit for dessert.
After lunch, I looked and spotted the Condors again. This time I saw two circling overhead. A llama was born a week and a half ago and we all took photos of the baby llama and the other llamas which were wandering around. Next, we visited some makeshift stores in the village and purchased a small piece of pottery and a textile. We toured a little museum about daily life of these Quechua people and... oh, I should mention that along the way we picked up pottery shards, some of which were supposedly pre-Inca.
We visited a home of some of the villagers. Here they were preparing for the last day of Carnival by preparing a big BBQ and lots of chicha.
It was a splendid day.
As others were making their offering to pachamama, Ray and I each spotted Andean Condors overhead. I had looked up and seen a white collared bird. About the same time Ray tapped my shoulder and asked, "Sharon, does that look like a condor to you?"
Our trip leader, Ric, had never seen condors in this spot before. He had overheard Ray and said it was possible. Ric asked the group, "Does anyone have binoculars? Can you see if the wings are tipping up?"
As I looked at this beautiful white-collared bird, I thought, omigosh, Daddy sent me a condor! Then, I spotted another one, which joined the first bird in circling overhead. I watched in amazement as tears rolled down my face. Soon, Ric confirmed that these were indeed condors and the group was so excited! It would be just like Daddy to send me an Andean Condor in such a beautiful location during a blessing of a potato crop! Before long, a third condor joined the circle. At this point I went back to the bus to grab my binoculars.
When I arrived back for a better view aided by my binoculars, I could not spot the birds. The entire group had gone over to a memorial to the villager's ancestors. We passed by a couple of these and then, after passing the last one I saw the magnificent collared bird rising up from behind the village church. I watched him ascend. Then, when it was mostly too high up for any sort of good photo, I tried to capture an image on my digital camera. What an amazing moment!
We had lunch in this village and enjoyed a soup-style chicken dish with noodles, potato and vegetables cooked in chicha, a Quechua version of Coq au Vin. The Quechua name of the soup is Cjoko de Pollo. It was quite tasty and served with bread. We all had bottled water for beverage. Dessert was peaches and apples. Ray and I were too full to enjoy a piece of fruit for dessert.
After lunch, I looked and spotted the Condors again. This time I saw two circling overhead. A llama was born a week and a half ago and we all took photos of the baby llama and the other llamas which were wandering around. Next, we visited some makeshift stores in the village and purchased a small piece of pottery and a textile. We toured a little museum about daily life of these Quechua people and... oh, I should mention that along the way we picked up pottery shards, some of which were supposedly pre-Inca.
We visited a home of some of the villagers. Here they were preparing for the last day of Carnival by preparing a big BBQ and lots of chicha.
It was a splendid day.
May 18th, 2005, 07:12 PM
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<b>Sucre, Jatun Yampara and back to La Paz</b>
Once back in Sucre we went to our room, and crashed for a bit. I had found a steakhouse courtesy of a guidebook, which looked interesting and was about a 10-minute taxi ride from the hotel. It was so great to have a steak!
If you are interested in visiting Jatun Yampara, contact Richard Pederson.
Turismo Sucre Ltda.
Calle Bustillos 101
Sucre, Bolivia
Telfs/Fax 591(4)645-2936 & 646-0349
E.Mail: [email protected]
http://www.boliviabiz.com/tursucre
Monday morning we left Sucre and flew to La Paz on AeroSur. We spent the day in La Paz shopping in the sprawling market near our hotel, and ended the day with an early dinner to celebrate Valentine's Day.
Once back in Sucre we went to our room, and crashed for a bit. I had found a steakhouse courtesy of a guidebook, which looked interesting and was about a 10-minute taxi ride from the hotel. It was so great to have a steak!
If you are interested in visiting Jatun Yampara, contact Richard Pederson.
Turismo Sucre Ltda.
Calle Bustillos 101
Sucre, Bolivia
Telfs/Fax 591(4)645-2936 & 646-0349
E.Mail: [email protected]
http://www.boliviabiz.com/tursucre
Monday morning we left Sucre and flew to La Paz on AeroSur. We spent the day in La Paz shopping in the sprawling market near our hotel, and ended the day with an early dinner to celebrate Valentine's Day.
May 18th, 2005, 07:14 PM
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May 18th, 2005, 07:22 PM
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Our hotel in Sucre was Hostal de Su Merced. It was comfortable, nicely decorated, clean, well located and nicely staffed.
Hostal de Su Merced - Sucre, Bolivia (9524 feet at airport)
Azurduy Street No. 16
Telephone: 011-591-4-644-2706, 644-5150 and 645-1355
Fax: 011-591-4-691-2078
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.boliviaweb.com/companies/sumerced
Hostal de Su Merced - Sucre, Bolivia (9524 feet at airport)
Azurduy Street No. 16
Telephone: 011-591-4-644-2706, 644-5150 and 645-1355
Fax: 011-591-4-691-2078
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.boliviaweb.com/companies/sumerced
Jan 2nd, 2006, 12:35 PM
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<b>Lake Titikaka</b>
The next morning, Tuesday, February 15, we woke early in order to leave the Rosario Hotel in La Paz at 5:30 AM. The day's destination: Lake Titikaka, an hour and a half drive away.
Night had turned the earth cold and it was frigid when we ventured outdoors. Ray and I settled onto the bus and we watched from the windows as vendors set out their wares. Soon the market area around our hotel would be prepared for another day.
We both could have used more sleep. Yet, our local guide, Gloria Maldonado, was a bubbling, energetic and kind soul who after passing out blankets and pillows, spoke a good part of the journey. Sleeping the entire journey would not be easy. Gloria's stories were captivating and her high energy did not allow easily falling back to sleep.
Our bus climbed through the narrow streets of La Paz toward El Alto and we passed through a hail storm. After two weeks at altitude, I still found the harshness of Bolivia's high altitude weather patterns somewhat amazing. In places along our journey, we saw so much hail fall that it looked to be like drifted snow. And, later in the same day it would be so warm, I would not need a jacket or sweatshirt and was quite comfortable in either long or short sleeved shirts. This morning, I was grateful for an added layer, a thick and warm blanket. (Thank you, Gloria!)
Facts dropped into my ears and mind as I drifted in and out of sleep. Gloria, who is of Amarayan descent and works for Transturin, told us the Inkas tried to impose their language on other cultures they conquered. Yet, inspite of being conquered by the Inka, the Aymara people have a very strong culture and their Aymara language has survived. The people who live around Lake Titikaka are Aymara. We were told, the higher we would go in altitude, the closer we would be to the ancestors of the Aymara people.
Gloria said "Titikaka" refers to the original name of Sun Island, Teeceekaka Chinkana Inka Ruin. And, I also learned there are varying translations for "Titikaka". Some say it means stone cat, others translate it to gray cat or puma. Sleepiness prevented my full attention yet I did capture just enough of Gloria's lecture and conversations to be reminded of the lore regarding the origination of the world and humanity with Lake Titikaka playing a central role. I hear of the legendary birthplace of the first Inka, Manco Capac, and his sister, Mama Ocllo and I am reminded of the great creator god, Viracocha. We would be at a very special place when we arrived at Lake Titikaka.
The next morning, Tuesday, February 15, we woke early in order to leave the Rosario Hotel in La Paz at 5:30 AM. The day's destination: Lake Titikaka, an hour and a half drive away.
Night had turned the earth cold and it was frigid when we ventured outdoors. Ray and I settled onto the bus and we watched from the windows as vendors set out their wares. Soon the market area around our hotel would be prepared for another day.
We both could have used more sleep. Yet, our local guide, Gloria Maldonado, was a bubbling, energetic and kind soul who after passing out blankets and pillows, spoke a good part of the journey. Sleeping the entire journey would not be easy. Gloria's stories were captivating and her high energy did not allow easily falling back to sleep.
Our bus climbed through the narrow streets of La Paz toward El Alto and we passed through a hail storm. After two weeks at altitude, I still found the harshness of Bolivia's high altitude weather patterns somewhat amazing. In places along our journey, we saw so much hail fall that it looked to be like drifted snow. And, later in the same day it would be so warm, I would not need a jacket or sweatshirt and was quite comfortable in either long or short sleeved shirts. This morning, I was grateful for an added layer, a thick and warm blanket. (Thank you, Gloria!)
Facts dropped into my ears and mind as I drifted in and out of sleep. Gloria, who is of Amarayan descent and works for Transturin, told us the Inkas tried to impose their language on other cultures they conquered. Yet, inspite of being conquered by the Inka, the Aymara people have a very strong culture and their Aymara language has survived. The people who live around Lake Titikaka are Aymara. We were told, the higher we would go in altitude, the closer we would be to the ancestors of the Aymara people.
Gloria said "Titikaka" refers to the original name of Sun Island, Teeceekaka Chinkana Inka Ruin. And, I also learned there are varying translations for "Titikaka". Some say it means stone cat, others translate it to gray cat or puma. Sleepiness prevented my full attention yet I did capture just enough of Gloria's lecture and conversations to be reminded of the lore regarding the origination of the world and humanity with Lake Titikaka playing a central role. I hear of the legendary birthplace of the first Inka, Manco Capac, and his sister, Mama Ocllo and I am reminded of the great creator god, Viracocha. We would be at a very special place when we arrived at Lake Titikaka.
Jan 2nd, 2006, 12:36 PM
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<b>Lake Titikaka, continued</b>
Before long, we approached the shores of Lake Titikaka. Small towns line the shore and our quiet morning began to stir both birds and villagers while daylight graced the landscape. It was 7:30 AM.
At Chua / Huatajata we boarded the catamaran, Consuelo, which was our home for the next two days. This is the largest vessel on the lake and has 20 cabins, each with its own view. On board a breakfast buffet was waiting for us and we began our journey across Lake Titikaka's beautiful dark and tranquil water. Cruising altitude -- 12,651 feet.
For more information on cuising Lake Titikaka, check out http://www.transturin.com/ship_profile.html
After about an hour and a half we reached the southern side of Isla del Sol. Here we enjoyed a morning hike, up the "Escalera de Inka", Inka stairs. The steps were a challenge to climb and children waited for us. Here it would have been great to move quickly, but I felt a bit like a sitting duck at the mercy of these energetic vendors as I slowly placed one foot in front of the other. Every now and then, I stopped to rest and found myself surrounded by friendly little hands holding various woven items. Along the shore, men and women worked on construction projects -- Isla del Sol provided equal opportunity for all to work.
After a climb of 235 feet, we admired a spring. We caught our breath, then walked along an easy trail where we follow alongside vast Inka terraces. The terraces were well tended and hosted a variety of native plantings: crops, medicinal herbs and a variety of blooming flowers. We watched as a man tended the fields with an Andean footplow. Then, we passed by some camelids and ended our walk at a beautiful vista overlooking Lake Titikaka. A small museum is situated here and we went inside to inspect the archeaological treasures on display. We hiked back the way we had come and made our way past the vendors who lined the Inka steps.
We rejuvenated ourselves with lunch aboard the ship. Then, we boarded a reed boat fashioned similar to a Polynesion seagoing vessel complete with twin jaguar heads sculpted by woven reeds to ward off, frighten and decorate the ultra touristy transportation. Two men with oars paddled while the inboard motor did most of the work.
Ray and I were ready explore the north side of the Island. We disembarked at the small Aymara village of Challapampa. Here we were greeted by men and women of the village as children curiously looked on. The men danced and played Andean flutes and drums. Their costumes were well aged and decorated with the fur of either ocelots or jaguars, feathers and tradition. The women hung garlands of flowers around our necks. The dancing men dance motioned us to follow along behind their dance and we were led to a cove where small fishing boats waited. Our afternoon hike, to Chinkana Inka Ruins, would begin after a short sail in these small boats. Oh, what a life!
Before long, we approached the shores of Lake Titikaka. Small towns line the shore and our quiet morning began to stir both birds and villagers while daylight graced the landscape. It was 7:30 AM.
At Chua / Huatajata we boarded the catamaran, Consuelo, which was our home for the next two days. This is the largest vessel on the lake and has 20 cabins, each with its own view. On board a breakfast buffet was waiting for us and we began our journey across Lake Titikaka's beautiful dark and tranquil water. Cruising altitude -- 12,651 feet.
For more information on cuising Lake Titikaka, check out http://www.transturin.com/ship_profile.html
After about an hour and a half we reached the southern side of Isla del Sol. Here we enjoyed a morning hike, up the "Escalera de Inka", Inka stairs. The steps were a challenge to climb and children waited for us. Here it would have been great to move quickly, but I felt a bit like a sitting duck at the mercy of these energetic vendors as I slowly placed one foot in front of the other. Every now and then, I stopped to rest and found myself surrounded by friendly little hands holding various woven items. Along the shore, men and women worked on construction projects -- Isla del Sol provided equal opportunity for all to work.
After a climb of 235 feet, we admired a spring. We caught our breath, then walked along an easy trail where we follow alongside vast Inka terraces. The terraces were well tended and hosted a variety of native plantings: crops, medicinal herbs and a variety of blooming flowers. We watched as a man tended the fields with an Andean footplow. Then, we passed by some camelids and ended our walk at a beautiful vista overlooking Lake Titikaka. A small museum is situated here and we went inside to inspect the archeaological treasures on display. We hiked back the way we had come and made our way past the vendors who lined the Inka steps.
We rejuvenated ourselves with lunch aboard the ship. Then, we boarded a reed boat fashioned similar to a Polynesion seagoing vessel complete with twin jaguar heads sculpted by woven reeds to ward off, frighten and decorate the ultra touristy transportation. Two men with oars paddled while the inboard motor did most of the work.
Ray and I were ready explore the north side of the Island. We disembarked at the small Aymara village of Challapampa. Here we were greeted by men and women of the village as children curiously looked on. The men danced and played Andean flutes and drums. Their costumes were well aged and decorated with the fur of either ocelots or jaguars, feathers and tradition. The women hung garlands of flowers around our necks. The dancing men dance motioned us to follow along behind their dance and we were led to a cove where small fishing boats waited. Our afternoon hike, to Chinkana Inka Ruins, would begin after a short sail in these small boats. Oh, what a life!
Jan 2nd, 2006, 12:38 PM
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<b> Lake Titikaka, continued</b>
Ah! To set sail in a small fishing boat on Lake Titikaka. Our white boat was twelve feet long, and trimmed with green paint. Unlike the jaguar-style touristy reed boat, this was a true working man's vessel. It was well worn; yet well maintained: it had enjoyed many a sail on Lake Titikaka. Three of us from the tour and the boat's owner made a cozy group. Titikaka's water was aquamarine, inky blue and green and clear down to 20 feet. At times the water colored thalo blue and almost black. Then in a little different light and ten minutes later the water echoed emerald green. The boatman rowed us past the point where the wind was going our way, then he raised the lateen sail and we glided effortlessly towards our landing below Chinkana ruins. I wanted this experience to last forever. After our sail was raised, I tossed my lei into the Lake and made a wish.
At the northern tip of the Isla del Sol, we docked at the bottom of a cliff, then climbed 275 feet. The change in altitude doesn't really sound like so much on paper, but at this altitude, oxygen is scarce and I certainly knew I was climbing. Even though I had been at altitude for two weeks, I still noticed problems when doing an after-lunch hike. Hiking and digesting certainly complicated my body's oxygen delivery system.
Gloria introduced me to an herbal remedy, a form of aromatherapy which helps one breathe. I rubbed the small branches of the koa plant in my hands, smelled its scent and felt energized. (In Peru I learned the Quechua call this same plant "la muña".) We visited the Inka ruins at Chinkana temple, which date to 1200 AD, and a dark sky threatened. Soon it started to hail and rain. Eager to move on, we met at the sacred rock altar where two kallawayas prepared an offering to pachamama. Gratefully, the sky cleared, and stunning beauty surrounded us.
If you are interested, Unesco provides an informative background on kallawayas, the shaman-healer-priest of the Andes:
http://portal.unesco.org/culture/en/...CTION=201.html
Ah! To set sail in a small fishing boat on Lake Titikaka. Our white boat was twelve feet long, and trimmed with green paint. Unlike the jaguar-style touristy reed boat, this was a true working man's vessel. It was well worn; yet well maintained: it had enjoyed many a sail on Lake Titikaka. Three of us from the tour and the boat's owner made a cozy group. Titikaka's water was aquamarine, inky blue and green and clear down to 20 feet. At times the water colored thalo blue and almost black. Then in a little different light and ten minutes later the water echoed emerald green. The boatman rowed us past the point where the wind was going our way, then he raised the lateen sail and we glided effortlessly towards our landing below Chinkana ruins. I wanted this experience to last forever. After our sail was raised, I tossed my lei into the Lake and made a wish.
At the northern tip of the Isla del Sol, we docked at the bottom of a cliff, then climbed 275 feet. The change in altitude doesn't really sound like so much on paper, but at this altitude, oxygen is scarce and I certainly knew I was climbing. Even though I had been at altitude for two weeks, I still noticed problems when doing an after-lunch hike. Hiking and digesting certainly complicated my body's oxygen delivery system.
Gloria introduced me to an herbal remedy, a form of aromatherapy which helps one breathe. I rubbed the small branches of the koa plant in my hands, smelled its scent and felt energized. (In Peru I learned the Quechua call this same plant "la muña".) We visited the Inka ruins at Chinkana temple, which date to 1200 AD, and a dark sky threatened. Soon it started to hail and rain. Eager to move on, we met at the sacred rock altar where two kallawayas prepared an offering to pachamama. Gratefully, the sky cleared, and stunning beauty surrounded us.
If you are interested, Unesco provides an informative background on kallawayas, the shaman-healer-priest of the Andes:
http://portal.unesco.org/culture/en/...CTION=201.html
Jan 2nd, 2006, 12:39 PM
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<b>Lake Titikaka, continued</b>
We enjoyed a long walk across the ridge back to the village. Rufous collared sparows twilled and enchanted us. A large, nondescript black bird, wih an orange beak identified in our bird book as a glossy black thrush added to the song. Three young school-aged boys, Alan, Alexander and Freddie joined us along the path. Our visiting with them led to a chant: Name is Sharon, Charro, Charita. Chica is Linda. Judy, Judy, Judy! A yellow winged cacique flew in between the trees and landed on the maize field.
In the village we were invited to see dried food products and crafts which had been layed out in a small courtyard for us to view. We arrived back to our cruise ship, Consuelo, at 645 PM. Ray and I rested, then enjoyed a candlelight dinner and evening entertainment with more song and dance provided by the locals of Challapampa.
Evening brought a heavy rain. I hit the pillow at 945 PM and was instantly asleep.
We enjoyed a long walk across the ridge back to the village. Rufous collared sparows twilled and enchanted us. A large, nondescript black bird, wih an orange beak identified in our bird book as a glossy black thrush added to the song. Three young school-aged boys, Alan, Alexander and Freddie joined us along the path. Our visiting with them led to a chant: Name is Sharon, Charro, Charita. Chica is Linda. Judy, Judy, Judy! A yellow winged cacique flew in between the trees and landed on the maize field.
In the village we were invited to see dried food products and crafts which had been layed out in a small courtyard for us to view. We arrived back to our cruise ship, Consuelo, at 645 PM. Ray and I rested, then enjoyed a candlelight dinner and evening entertainment with more song and dance provided by the locals of Challapampa.
Evening brought a heavy rain. I hit the pillow at 945 PM and was instantly asleep.
Jan 2nd, 2006, 12:41 PM
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Jan 2nd, 2006, 02:34 PM
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<b>Copacabana</b>
The next morning (Wednesday, February 16th) we sailed from Isla del Sol to Copacabana. An hour and a half later we docked.
Like many travelers before us, we made our pilgrimage to visit the Moorish-style cathedral and see a special statue: a black Madonna, carved from wood in the 1580's. The image is greatly venerated in Bolivia and our guide, Gloria, told us gladiolas are the Virgin's favorite flower. It's convenient for the locals that these favored flowers grow in the region. Many bouquets filled with gladiolas adorned the altars inside.
The famed statue is dressed in elegant finery and jewels. Her gowns are changed every three years and a date-book is filled with entries to change her garments until 2029. She is best seen from an upstairs chapel where she may be viewed more at eye-level. (Entry is to the left of the main altar and then up the stairs.) Behind her is a silver screen and she faces toward Lake Titikaka. For Sunday mass and special occasions she is turned to face the main altar. Both altars are highly gilt with pure silver.
In addition to the black Madonna, the church holds an impressive collection of religious artwork and is a pleasant space for worship. Many of the paintings in the church are from the school of Potosí, which is similar to the Cusco school but with lighter values and more reds.
After touring the church, we meandered up and down the pleasant streets of Copacabana and enjoyed strolling through the plaza in front of the church.
The next morning (Wednesday, February 16th) we sailed from Isla del Sol to Copacabana. An hour and a half later we docked.
Like many travelers before us, we made our pilgrimage to visit the Moorish-style cathedral and see a special statue: a black Madonna, carved from wood in the 1580's. The image is greatly venerated in Bolivia and our guide, Gloria, told us gladiolas are the Virgin's favorite flower. It's convenient for the locals that these favored flowers grow in the region. Many bouquets filled with gladiolas adorned the altars inside.
The famed statue is dressed in elegant finery and jewels. Her gowns are changed every three years and a date-book is filled with entries to change her garments until 2029. She is best seen from an upstairs chapel where she may be viewed more at eye-level. (Entry is to the left of the main altar and then up the stairs.) Behind her is a silver screen and she faces toward Lake Titikaka. For Sunday mass and special occasions she is turned to face the main altar. Both altars are highly gilt with pure silver.
In addition to the black Madonna, the church holds an impressive collection of religious artwork and is a pleasant space for worship. Many of the paintings in the church are from the school of Potosí, which is similar to the Cusco school but with lighter values and more reds.
After touring the church, we meandered up and down the pleasant streets of Copacabana and enjoyed strolling through the plaza in front of the church.
Jan 2nd, 2006, 02:35 PM
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<b>Copacabana, continued</b>
In front of the cathedral, a priest blessed someone's new truck and we watched this ceremony. The ritual was similar to many we had already witnessed in Bolivia: there were prayers, pouring of alcohol on the four corners, in this case -- the wheels of the truck -- And, as usual, a counter-clockwise motion, reflecting the turn of the Andean cross was used. The truck was decorated in crepe paper, confetti and fresh flowers. Several children's toy vehicles were also blessed at the same time. Afterwards the entire family posed for photos.
This marks the end of our time with the tour group. We said our good-byes, departed the group and were dropped off at the Rosario del Lago, a sister hotel to the one we stayed at in La Paz. I hung out and surfed the Internet while Ray hiked to the Stations of the Cross which overlook Lake Titikaka on Niño Calvario. I was somewhat travel weary and thoroughly enjoyed a couple hours of down time. The lobby-area, where I enjoyed Internet access, overlooked the pretty bay and hilly landscape.
Once Ray returned, we enjoyed a good lunch at the Rosario and Ray shared details of his morning hike, a 455-foot ascent from the shores of Lake Titikaka to the top of Niño Calvario. At the base of the path was a small white locked shrine and an open area for ceremonies. The trail then became a series of stairs, at first built with flagstone, then after the sixth station rough hewn into the rock. Shops with tempting soft drinks and sacred souvenirs lined the stairs up until the 4th station. At the sixth station there was a large clearing and a line of six altars facing the lake. As Ray labored up the stairs he encountered individuals and families doing devotions at various stations. The kids scampered up and down the stairs and tried to toss rocks on the stations themselves to see if they could land them on one of the arms.
He finally wheezed to the top after about 45 minutes. The sky was overcast and the lake looked angry. Below to the left almost vertically, the lovely town of Copacabana embraced its crescent shaped harbor. Thirty or so bobbing boats pointed towards the town. At the top were a series of shrines in a line along the ridge. The stone base of each shrine was blackened by innumerable candle offerings. On the way down Ray noticed two of the altars at the sixth station were each being used by an older couple and a traditional shaman priest for a ritual. He watched discretely for a few minutes but couldn't tell what the subject of the ceremony was.
Demetria, our guide from Explorandes picked us up at the agreed time and drove us to the Peruvian border where we changed money and were introduced to Bertha, our Peruvian guide and Poncho, our driver.
In front of the cathedral, a priest blessed someone's new truck and we watched this ceremony. The ritual was similar to many we had already witnessed in Bolivia: there were prayers, pouring of alcohol on the four corners, in this case -- the wheels of the truck -- And, as usual, a counter-clockwise motion, reflecting the turn of the Andean cross was used. The truck was decorated in crepe paper, confetti and fresh flowers. Several children's toy vehicles were also blessed at the same time. Afterwards the entire family posed for photos.
This marks the end of our time with the tour group. We said our good-byes, departed the group and were dropped off at the Rosario del Lago, a sister hotel to the one we stayed at in La Paz. I hung out and surfed the Internet while Ray hiked to the Stations of the Cross which overlook Lake Titikaka on Niño Calvario. I was somewhat travel weary and thoroughly enjoyed a couple hours of down time. The lobby-area, where I enjoyed Internet access, overlooked the pretty bay and hilly landscape.
Once Ray returned, we enjoyed a good lunch at the Rosario and Ray shared details of his morning hike, a 455-foot ascent from the shores of Lake Titikaka to the top of Niño Calvario. At the base of the path was a small white locked shrine and an open area for ceremonies. The trail then became a series of stairs, at first built with flagstone, then after the sixth station rough hewn into the rock. Shops with tempting soft drinks and sacred souvenirs lined the stairs up until the 4th station. At the sixth station there was a large clearing and a line of six altars facing the lake. As Ray labored up the stairs he encountered individuals and families doing devotions at various stations. The kids scampered up and down the stairs and tried to toss rocks on the stations themselves to see if they could land them on one of the arms.
He finally wheezed to the top after about 45 minutes. The sky was overcast and the lake looked angry. Below to the left almost vertically, the lovely town of Copacabana embraced its crescent shaped harbor. Thirty or so bobbing boats pointed towards the town. At the top were a series of shrines in a line along the ridge. The stone base of each shrine was blackened by innumerable candle offerings. On the way down Ray noticed two of the altars at the sixth station were each being used by an older couple and a traditional shaman priest for a ritual. He watched discretely for a few minutes but couldn't tell what the subject of the ceremony was.
Demetria, our guide from Explorandes picked us up at the agreed time and drove us to the Peruvian border where we changed money and were introduced to Bertha, our Peruvian guide and Poncho, our driver.
Jan 2nd, 2006, 02:37 PM
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