SharonNRayMc: Trip Report - 24 days on the road: Miami, Jupiter, Bolivia and Peru... and what some folks will do to see the Devil Dance! (Part 2)
Jan 2nd, 2006, 02:48 PM
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Hi cmcfong,
Thank you for your concern.
Once all this is done, I will post a link to the WorldIsRound trip report at TOP.
I sure hope Jocelyn stays safe. Things are much safer today in Oklahoma because humidity levels are higher. All I see that is fire-y outside my west-facing window is a glorious sunset. (Thank God!)
- Sharon
Thank you for your concern.
Once all this is done, I will post a link to the WorldIsRound trip report at TOP.
I sure hope Jocelyn stays safe. Things are much safer today in Oklahoma because humidity levels are higher. All I see that is fire-y outside my west-facing window is a glorious sunset. (Thank God!)
- Sharon
Jan 2nd, 2006, 04:39 PM
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<b>Along the road... Copacabana (Bolivia) to Puno (Peru)</b>
Crossing the border between Bolivia and Peru was straightforward. We were driven to the border in one car with our Bolivian guide, Demetria; had our passports stamped; walked across the border; then, met by our Peruvian guide, Bertha, and another car. A man pedaling a tricycle drove our luggage across the border.
We changed our remaining Bolivianos into Soles with a moneychanger on the Bolivian side. The rates were good -- just as good as any we were able to find later in Cusco.
Bertha was friendly, enthusiastic and had a freshness about her role as our guide. Turns out, Ray and I were her first clients ever with her very first job as a tour guide. She was so excited to be working for Explorandes... and us. This made the hour and a half drive to Puno pass quickly. We made plenty of stops and poked along, so our actual travel time from Copacabana to Puno ended up being about three and a half-hours. (It was only a very short distance to the Bolivian border from Copacabana, perhaps 10 minutes drive at most.) Bertha took great delight in sharing all she could about Peru and we visited constantly.
The Peruvian shoreline along Lake Titikaka was teaming with lots of birds and prosperous farmland. Crops included quinoa, potatoes, barley and corn. We also saw lots of domesticated animals - sheep, alpaca and a few pigs. I learned from Bertha that 65 varieties of birds are found along Lake Titikaka's shores.
Crossing the border between Bolivia and Peru was straightforward. We were driven to the border in one car with our Bolivian guide, Demetria; had our passports stamped; walked across the border; then, met by our Peruvian guide, Bertha, and another car. A man pedaling a tricycle drove our luggage across the border.
We changed our remaining Bolivianos into Soles with a moneychanger on the Bolivian side. The rates were good -- just as good as any we were able to find later in Cusco.
Bertha was friendly, enthusiastic and had a freshness about her role as our guide. Turns out, Ray and I were her first clients ever with her very first job as a tour guide. She was so excited to be working for Explorandes... and us. This made the hour and a half drive to Puno pass quickly. We made plenty of stops and poked along, so our actual travel time from Copacabana to Puno ended up being about three and a half-hours. (It was only a very short distance to the Bolivian border from Copacabana, perhaps 10 minutes drive at most.) Bertha took great delight in sharing all she could about Peru and we visited constantly.
The Peruvian shoreline along Lake Titikaka was teaming with lots of birds and prosperous farmland. Crops included quinoa, potatoes, barley and corn. We also saw lots of domesticated animals - sheep, alpaca and a few pigs. I learned from Bertha that 65 varieties of birds are found along Lake Titikaka's shores.
Jan 2nd, 2006, 04:42 PM
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<b>Along the road... Copacabana (Bolivia) to Puno (Peru) -- Continued</b>
We drove past a colorful field of quinoa and I asked our driver for a photo stop. I was surprised to learn that there are five kinds of quinoa that grow in Peru. Perhaps all five varieties were in the landscape where we stopped. Quinoa is fascinating because the leaves are so colorful and the plants grow to about six feet tall. It is harvested in May. The grain that is produced is similar in size to millet. Touted as an Andean healthfood, quinoa is very high in protein and calcium. We enjoyed it in many soups during our stay in Bolivia and it was neat to see it growing. Bertha explained the Inka also used quinoa to wash clothes and hair, as a scrubbing aid.
Ray and I arranged stops to explore Pomata and Julí. I am quite interested in religious art and architecture and was delighted with what we found in each of these villages. The first stop was at Pomata, to explore the city's 18th century church, Santiago Apostól de Nuestra Señora del Rosario. Julí, is nicknamed the "Rome of South America" because there are four churches on four hills. We toured San Pedro. In both churches we saw an interesting mix of Mestizo-Baroque architecture.
About 4:30 we arrived in Puno, where the Aymara and Quechua cultures are joined. We rested in our hotel room at the Quelqatani Hotel. ( www.qelqatani.com ) Then, after a short nap we walked over to Lago de Flores, a pizza joint, and enjoyed a fine brick oven pizza.
There was quite a contrast between Bolivia and Peru. Once in Puno, we were on the Gringo Trail complete with pizza joints, many foreign travelers and we heard a variety of ultra-modern world music pouring out of the restaurants and shops. A group of Swedes enjoyed a birthday party at the pizza joint where we had dinner. We saw lots of youngish foreigners in their twenties and thirties. There were plenty of nice shops. Yes, there was good shopping in Puno (including an upscale Alpaca 111 shop). Puno's prices were better than those in Cusco. And, to be fair for comparison sake, Bolivia had the very best prices. Peru was certainly more set-up for tourism. We also noticed that most everyone in Puno could speak English, which was not the case in Bolivia.
We drove past a colorful field of quinoa and I asked our driver for a photo stop. I was surprised to learn that there are five kinds of quinoa that grow in Peru. Perhaps all five varieties were in the landscape where we stopped. Quinoa is fascinating because the leaves are so colorful and the plants grow to about six feet tall. It is harvested in May. The grain that is produced is similar in size to millet. Touted as an Andean healthfood, quinoa is very high in protein and calcium. We enjoyed it in many soups during our stay in Bolivia and it was neat to see it growing. Bertha explained the Inka also used quinoa to wash clothes and hair, as a scrubbing aid.
Ray and I arranged stops to explore Pomata and Julí. I am quite interested in religious art and architecture and was delighted with what we found in each of these villages. The first stop was at Pomata, to explore the city's 18th century church, Santiago Apostól de Nuestra Señora del Rosario. Julí, is nicknamed the "Rome of South America" because there are four churches on four hills. We toured San Pedro. In both churches we saw an interesting mix of Mestizo-Baroque architecture.
About 4:30 we arrived in Puno, where the Aymara and Quechua cultures are joined. We rested in our hotel room at the Quelqatani Hotel. ( www.qelqatani.com ) Then, after a short nap we walked over to Lago de Flores, a pizza joint, and enjoyed a fine brick oven pizza.
There was quite a contrast between Bolivia and Peru. Once in Puno, we were on the Gringo Trail complete with pizza joints, many foreign travelers and we heard a variety of ultra-modern world music pouring out of the restaurants and shops. A group of Swedes enjoyed a birthday party at the pizza joint where we had dinner. We saw lots of youngish foreigners in their twenties and thirties. There were plenty of nice shops. Yes, there was good shopping in Puno (including an upscale Alpaca 111 shop). Puno's prices were better than those in Cusco. And, to be fair for comparison sake, Bolivia had the very best prices. Peru was certainly more set-up for tourism. We also noticed that most everyone in Puno could speak English, which was not the case in Bolivia.
Jan 2nd, 2006, 04:47 PM
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<b>Photos - Along the road from Copacabana to Puno</b>
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/261584/text.html
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/261584/text.html
Jan 2nd, 2006, 04:58 PM
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I am glad you like the report, cmcfong. I hope to keep the momemtum going and finish this. I've made good progress today. Tomorrow brings back the work-a-day routine, so I'll see how much momentum I can keep.
- Sharon
- Sharon
Jan 5th, 2006, 03:24 PM
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Hello Sharon-
Thanks for your interesting trip diary! I am planning a trip to Peru & also want to do the Lake Titicaca crossing to LaPaz.
Depending on schedule we may start in LaPaz. gasp. How did you prepare for the altitude? Yikes I am nervous about that, flatlanders that we are.
I also noticed that you stayed by the airport at Hotel Manhattan. How was the hotel? People are steering us away from there and telling us to stay in Miraflores, but the flight schedules may be the ultimate decision maker...
Thanks for any tips. Your pictures are lovely as well!
Thanks for your interesting trip diary! I am planning a trip to Peru & also want to do the Lake Titicaca crossing to LaPaz.
Depending on schedule we may start in LaPaz. gasp. How did you prepare for the altitude? Yikes I am nervous about that, flatlanders that we are.
I also noticed that you stayed by the airport at Hotel Manhattan. How was the hotel? People are steering us away from there and telling us to stay in Miraflores, but the flight schedules may be the ultimate decision maker...
Thanks for any tips. Your pictures are lovely as well!
Jan 5th, 2006, 05:41 PM
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cmcfong - Thank you. I am almost finished with the writing. Just two more sections. I have been writing during my lunch break at work this week and hope to get the Puno to Cusco section posted soon.
Glad you like the photos. I took so many and then had the difficult job of choosing. Digital cameras are great... but then as an added blessing (is it a blessing?) there are so many photos to sort through and select.
Sharon
Glad you like the photos. I took so many and then had the difficult job of choosing. Digital cameras are great... but then as an added blessing (is it a blessing?) there are so many photos to sort through and select.
Sharon
Jan 5th, 2006, 06:20 PM
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guimbymoy,
Glad you are enjoying the report.
<i> Acclimating to high altitudes </i>
Our house sits at 1070 feet, and OKC is pretty flat. The best physical preparation we did was to climb stairs; this will improve your lung capacity and prepare your quads and calves for going up and down.
In the grand scheme of things, we are all told to make a gradual ascent to a high elevation. Well, that is good advice for the "perfect world"; sometimes you just can't do a gradual ascent to a higher altitude.
In 1999 Ray and I flew directly from Lima (sea level) to Cusco (11,000 feet). La Paz, Bolivia is higher about 13,000 feet. So, we had no gradual ascent either of these times.
Before our trip to Bolivia, the owner of our local travel shop suggested we get plenty of iron in our diets prior to the trip to get our blood very healthy and also to take an aspirin about 30 minutes before landing. Well, I did a little research on the topic. Here are the results from a Google search on "high altitude" + iron + aspirin:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...on+%2B+aspirin
His advice seemed to be sound. And, it couldn't hurt to take a multivitamin with iron as a daily habit prior to the trip.
Here's another link about getting enough iron and magnesium in your diet before you go to a high altitude location & some discussion on aspirin being beneficial:
http://www.coolrunning.com/forums/Fo...L/002143.shtml
An overview of the effects of high altitude on the body & prevention/treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness. This is important to know so that you are aware of symptoms for AMS.
www.sportsci.org/encyc/altitaccl/altitaccl.html
High altitude eating: Eat high carb foods, Avoid alcohol & caffeine, Drink plenty of fluids, Vitamin E
http://www.pponline.co.uk/encyc/0319.htm
I'll add that coca tea is offered to you in Cusco and La Paz and is somewhat helpful. Resting and taking it easy is the best idea for the first day or two.
My tried and proven acclimatization tricks:
1. Drink plenty of fluids.
2. Take it easy.
3. Bring and use saline spray to keep nostrils moist.
4. Bring and use chapstick. (Carmex works really, really well.)
5. Bring some good lotion to keep skin moist and comfortable.
6. Bring and wear UV protection - sunblock and sunglasses.
I had a prescription of Diamox written for me by my physician prior to leaving. (And, I did not take the aspirin.) I followed the regimen for Diamox the first couple of days. Ray did the aspirin route. I suspect the best thing we did to acclimate was to rest, drink plenty of liquids and basically take it very easy the first day. We did this the first day in Cusco (1999) and the first day in La Paz (2005).
We both found that our thinking was just a bit slower and we didn't have much appetite for the first few days.
Another bit of advice I had read is that a person is likely to have the same reactions to high altitude from trip to trip. Of course, health situations can change. If you have true health concerns, check with your physician.
Be sure to walk slowly when deplaning and take it very easy. There is no point in overexerting yourself and then finding that you are in trouble. I have heard of people having their legs simply give out when deplaning in La Paz. So, slow it goes. After the first couple of days we did pretty well.
Next trip I will forego the Diamox. Ray and I have both done some reading on this since, and we feel that the drug might simply mask AMS -- we'd like our body to just talk to us if it was in trouble.
Regards,
Sharon
Glad you are enjoying the report.
<i> Acclimating to high altitudes </i>
Our house sits at 1070 feet, and OKC is pretty flat. The best physical preparation we did was to climb stairs; this will improve your lung capacity and prepare your quads and calves for going up and down.
In the grand scheme of things, we are all told to make a gradual ascent to a high elevation. Well, that is good advice for the "perfect world"; sometimes you just can't do a gradual ascent to a higher altitude.
In 1999 Ray and I flew directly from Lima (sea level) to Cusco (11,000 feet). La Paz, Bolivia is higher about 13,000 feet. So, we had no gradual ascent either of these times.
Before our trip to Bolivia, the owner of our local travel shop suggested we get plenty of iron in our diets prior to the trip to get our blood very healthy and also to take an aspirin about 30 minutes before landing. Well, I did a little research on the topic. Here are the results from a Google search on "high altitude" + iron + aspirin:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...on+%2B+aspirin
His advice seemed to be sound. And, it couldn't hurt to take a multivitamin with iron as a daily habit prior to the trip.
Here's another link about getting enough iron and magnesium in your diet before you go to a high altitude location & some discussion on aspirin being beneficial:
http://www.coolrunning.com/forums/Fo...L/002143.shtml
An overview of the effects of high altitude on the body & prevention/treatment of Acute Mountain Sickness. This is important to know so that you are aware of symptoms for AMS.
www.sportsci.org/encyc/altitaccl/altitaccl.html
High altitude eating: Eat high carb foods, Avoid alcohol & caffeine, Drink plenty of fluids, Vitamin E
http://www.pponline.co.uk/encyc/0319.htm
I'll add that coca tea is offered to you in Cusco and La Paz and is somewhat helpful. Resting and taking it easy is the best idea for the first day or two.
My tried and proven acclimatization tricks:
1. Drink plenty of fluids.
2. Take it easy.
3. Bring and use saline spray to keep nostrils moist.
4. Bring and use chapstick. (Carmex works really, really well.)
5. Bring some good lotion to keep skin moist and comfortable.
6. Bring and wear UV protection - sunblock and sunglasses.
I had a prescription of Diamox written for me by my physician prior to leaving. (And, I did not take the aspirin.) I followed the regimen for Diamox the first couple of days. Ray did the aspirin route. I suspect the best thing we did to acclimate was to rest, drink plenty of liquids and basically take it very easy the first day. We did this the first day in Cusco (1999) and the first day in La Paz (2005).
We both found that our thinking was just a bit slower and we didn't have much appetite for the first few days.
Another bit of advice I had read is that a person is likely to have the same reactions to high altitude from trip to trip. Of course, health situations can change. If you have true health concerns, check with your physician.
Be sure to walk slowly when deplaning and take it very easy. There is no point in overexerting yourself and then finding that you are in trouble. I have heard of people having their legs simply give out when deplaning in La Paz. So, slow it goes. After the first couple of days we did pretty well.
Next trip I will forego the Diamox. Ray and I have both done some reading on this since, and we feel that the drug might simply mask AMS -- we'd like our body to just talk to us if it was in trouble.
Regards,
Sharon
Jan 5th, 2006, 06:23 PM
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You also asked about the Hotel Manhattan...
<i>Hotel Manhattan</i>
The Hotel Manhattan was pleasant enough. It's nothing fancy and from what I had read you probably don't want to go walking in the neighborhood. You can arange for the hotel to call a taxi, which is what we did.
Miraflores is certainly a much nicer neighborhood. There are some good things to do in Lima, so you might want to spend a day or so there to check them out. If you do that, you should certainly stay in the Miraflores area. I can highly recommend the Hotel Antigua.
http://www.andeantravelweb.com/peru/...iraflores.html
Regards,
Sharon
<i>Hotel Manhattan</i>
The Hotel Manhattan was pleasant enough. It's nothing fancy and from what I had read you probably don't want to go walking in the neighborhood. You can arange for the hotel to call a taxi, which is what we did.
Miraflores is certainly a much nicer neighborhood. There are some good things to do in Lima, so you might want to spend a day or so there to check them out. If you do that, you should certainly stay in the Miraflores area. I can highly recommend the Hotel Antigua.
http://www.andeantravelweb.com/peru/...iraflores.html
Regards,
Sharon
Jan 6th, 2006, 08:26 PM
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<b>Along the Road from Puno to Cusco </b>
Our planning had figured Puno to be a stop-over and that the bus ride from Puno to Cusco would be lengthy and somewhat dull. Poor planning, I suppose. Puno is quite a vibrant place and would be well worth some time to explore. I especially liked the activity on the lake: birds, fishermen, boats. The Peruvian side of Lake Titikaka seemed to be much more active than the Bolivian side. As it was, Ray was feeling a bit under the weather, so we did not even venture out much to explore. What we did see of Puno, we liked. It is a hilly city with narrow streets and home to 150,000 people. A variety of tricycles moved along the crowded, narrow streets. I was taken with the variety of tricycles: some man-powered and others motorcycle-engine powered. The tricycles added a certain ambiance which we had not seen before. As it turns out, Puno was only a stopover unfortunate planning on our part.
Thursday morning (February 17th), we grabbed a quick breakfast at the hotel and then left at 7:15 AM to head to the bus station, a few minutes away. And, although the bus was scheduled to leave at 7:45 AM, it left at 740. Only 14 passengers joined us and there were plenty of seats to spread out. Luggage was stored underneath, and we had only our day bag to deal with once on board. The bus picked up four more passengers at a hotel in Puno and then we were on our way as a group of 20 passengers, a driver and a bilingual guide.
Initially I was sorry we would be traveling from Puno to Cusco on a Thursday because I had so much wanted to ride the train from Puno to Cusco. As it worked out, it was a happy consequence. I did not realize beforehand that the bus would be making stops and that we would be given guided tours along the way. We traveled with First Class, a Peruvian tourist bus company. The comfortable high backed and reclining seats relaxed us as we traveled. We had toilet facilities on the bus. We had a very good bilingual guide and found ourselves eager to stop and explore the interesting places on the tour. And, if that were not enough, a phenomenal buffet lunch was included with the price of the bus ticket. Such pleasant surprises!
Our planning had figured Puno to be a stop-over and that the bus ride from Puno to Cusco would be lengthy and somewhat dull. Poor planning, I suppose. Puno is quite a vibrant place and would be well worth some time to explore. I especially liked the activity on the lake: birds, fishermen, boats. The Peruvian side of Lake Titikaka seemed to be much more active than the Bolivian side. As it was, Ray was feeling a bit under the weather, so we did not even venture out much to explore. What we did see of Puno, we liked. It is a hilly city with narrow streets and home to 150,000 people. A variety of tricycles moved along the crowded, narrow streets. I was taken with the variety of tricycles: some man-powered and others motorcycle-engine powered. The tricycles added a certain ambiance which we had not seen before. As it turns out, Puno was only a stopover unfortunate planning on our part.
Thursday morning (February 17th), we grabbed a quick breakfast at the hotel and then left at 7:15 AM to head to the bus station, a few minutes away. And, although the bus was scheduled to leave at 7:45 AM, it left at 740. Only 14 passengers joined us and there were plenty of seats to spread out. Luggage was stored underneath, and we had only our day bag to deal with once on board. The bus picked up four more passengers at a hotel in Puno and then we were on our way as a group of 20 passengers, a driver and a bilingual guide.
Initially I was sorry we would be traveling from Puno to Cusco on a Thursday because I had so much wanted to ride the train from Puno to Cusco. As it worked out, it was a happy consequence. I did not realize beforehand that the bus would be making stops and that we would be given guided tours along the way. We traveled with First Class, a Peruvian tourist bus company. The comfortable high backed and reclining seats relaxed us as we traveled. We had toilet facilities on the bus. We had a very good bilingual guide and found ourselves eager to stop and explore the interesting places on the tour. And, if that were not enough, a phenomenal buffet lunch was included with the price of the bus ticket. Such pleasant surprises!
Jan 6th, 2006, 08:28 PM
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<b>Along the Road - Puno to Cusco, continued</b>
It rained hard the night before. The streets were wet and the sky was filled with dark gray clouds. It was a good traveling day. Our 8 ½ hour ride from Puno to Cusco (380 kilometers) included four sightseeing stops and another stop for a hearty lunch. So, although the day was spent traveling, we enjoyed plenty of diversions along the way. We opted to pay an additional 14 Soles each for entrance fees at the stops we would make. Along the way and at our stops, our guide, Jose Chavez, explained everything in Spanish and English. He fielded questions in both languages and then gave the translation for the question and answer sessions in both languages as well. He was very fluent in English and Spanish and he mixed up his presentation to sometimes begin with Spanish and at other times to begin in English.
Our first stop was about an hour and a half drive away at Pukará. This small town of 4000 people, sits at 12,655'. We stopped here to tour Museo Lítico, a museum with pre-Inca artifacts from the area and to admire the beautiful colonial church, Santa Isabel, which had been built in 1640. The ruins here were settled 500 years before Christ and the well-done museum holds many interesting artifacts: stele, pottery and the like. Displays were well labeled in Spanish and English. Pukará is also the land of ceramic bulls and the local custom is to place two ceramic bulls on the roof to protect the house and family and to provide luck and fertility. Vendors spread their wares out on alpaca ponchos everywhere along the plaza nearest to the museum and sold ceramic bulls and textiles. Ceramics have been produced in Pukará for 2500 years.
Once settled back on the bus, we were offered a choice of coca tea or Coca Cola. First Class Tours certainly provided great service! After our refreshments, Ray and I dozed until we reached Sicuani where we enjoyed a delicious buffet. After lunch, we strolled through the town then made our way back to the bus for the pre-determined departure time.
We took time for a brief photo stop at La Raya, a 14,245 foot pass, which is located in a tight valley. The Andes Mountains shoot straight up on both sides of the pass. This was quite a scene, because so much of the geography of the Andes we had experienced was two ranges of mountains separated by a very wide plain -- the altiplano.
It rained hard the night before. The streets were wet and the sky was filled with dark gray clouds. It was a good traveling day. Our 8 ½ hour ride from Puno to Cusco (380 kilometers) included four sightseeing stops and another stop for a hearty lunch. So, although the day was spent traveling, we enjoyed plenty of diversions along the way. We opted to pay an additional 14 Soles each for entrance fees at the stops we would make. Along the way and at our stops, our guide, Jose Chavez, explained everything in Spanish and English. He fielded questions in both languages and then gave the translation for the question and answer sessions in both languages as well. He was very fluent in English and Spanish and he mixed up his presentation to sometimes begin with Spanish and at other times to begin in English.
Our first stop was about an hour and a half drive away at Pukará. This small town of 4000 people, sits at 12,655'. We stopped here to tour Museo Lítico, a museum with pre-Inca artifacts from the area and to admire the beautiful colonial church, Santa Isabel, which had been built in 1640. The ruins here were settled 500 years before Christ and the well-done museum holds many interesting artifacts: stele, pottery and the like. Displays were well labeled in Spanish and English. Pukará is also the land of ceramic bulls and the local custom is to place two ceramic bulls on the roof to protect the house and family and to provide luck and fertility. Vendors spread their wares out on alpaca ponchos everywhere along the plaza nearest to the museum and sold ceramic bulls and textiles. Ceramics have been produced in Pukará for 2500 years.
Once settled back on the bus, we were offered a choice of coca tea or Coca Cola. First Class Tours certainly provided great service! After our refreshments, Ray and I dozed until we reached Sicuani where we enjoyed a delicious buffet. After lunch, we strolled through the town then made our way back to the bus for the pre-determined departure time.
We took time for a brief photo stop at La Raya, a 14,245 foot pass, which is located in a tight valley. The Andes Mountains shoot straight up on both sides of the pass. This was quite a scene, because so much of the geography of the Andes we had experienced was two ranges of mountains separated by a very wide plain -- the altiplano.
Jan 6th, 2006, 08:30 PM
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coming up next ... the Inca ruins at Raqchi, the beautiful "Sistine Chapel of the Americas" at Andahuaylillas, then Cusco....
For now, sleep beckons. I will be back to my writing post tomorrow.
I hope you are enjoying the read.
Sharon
For now, sleep beckons. I will be back to my writing post tomorrow.
I hope you are enjoying the read.
Sharon
