Just returned from 12 days in Peru. Everything is pretty great except for Lima. It is frightening. You really have to go through Lima to go most anywhere else. I think if we ever go to Peru again, we would try to arrive late (most flights arrive after midnight, and our arrival was delayed until 1:30 a.m.) and try to fly out very early to the next destination and just stay at the airport. During the same time that we were there some bandits attacked an entire tour bus that was near the airport. They shot an elderly lady and when her husband tried to assist her, they bashed his head. Both were hospitalized but expected to recover. They took everything from all of the passengers.

We did have a problem ourselves as our guide and transfer were not there immediately when we arrived. Several unscrupulous individuals posing as guides and drivers tried their best to tell us they were waiting for us. They told us that our driver's car had been in a wreck, etc. etc. They surrounded us and were very intimidating. Even the security guard was in on it. We knew the name of our hotel (they could not name it) and that they should have vouchers, as well as the fact that we travel quite a bit, so they were not successful. We felt very lucky that we were not tricked. I think many people could have been taken in however. We were also told of some tourists who tried to just take a cab to their hotel and were robbed at gunpoint by the so called cab driver. Anyone can be a cab driver. No license or permit is required. If you are staying in Lima - be sure and have someone meeting you and escorting you to the hotel. The tour companies are aware of the danger and are just sick about it. They told us many similar stories.

But...once you get to Cusco and especially to the Sacred Valley it is wonderful. We particularly loved our 2 nights in Ollantaytambo (town, people and ruins) and the weaving villages of Willoq and Patacancha nearby. It was like going in to a time machine. People live the same as they did centuries ago. We were very lucky to see them paying homage to Jesus and Mary as they walked their statues thru the town one evening. We went to Urubamba and went paso horse back riding. While it was very beautiful there - we were so glad we overnighted in Ollantaytambo. It was an experience I felt so lucky to have had. Since we were only 1/2 a block from the train station, not only was it convenient, but our trip to Machu Picchu was only 1 1/2 hours long from that point. A baby llama was born at our hotel while we were there. We stayed at Pakaritampu. It was quite nice for the most part. Good location, very clean with a decent breakfast. The only complaint is that while the decor is beautiful wood - it really lends itself to be very noisy. Every door that opened and step that was taken was heard. I think requesting a room on the 2nd floor would really help.

We then went on to Machu Picchu which of course is a wonder of the world and is amazing. Very crowded though - and this is not their busy season. We stayed at the Machu Picchu Pueblo and it is a good as everyone says. Food, service and especially accommodations. We did the nature, bird ( we were lucky there too and saw 2 females and one male Cock of the Rock) and orchid walks and saw the specked bears as well. We later found out from our guides that they might not be too honest about being a rehab center for the bears. They are really something more of a zoo attraction I believe. After we returned home we saw a Jeff Corwin with the same bear - Pepe, that was there when we were there. The show said it was due to be released very soon and was dated 2003. You could also stand within 2 feet of say 20 hummingbirds of 5-7 varieties - there are so used to people.

We then spent 3 nights in Cusco. Much has been written about Cusco - so will just reconfirm Fallen Angel (for the restaurant's uniqueness as well as the food), Chez Maggie and Inka Grill as great restaurants. We felt it was really worth it to stay at the Monasterio. You just don't often get a chance to stay somewhere like that. The breakfasts were out of this world and the location was so convenient. Went to many ruins, all of the museums and churches and they are all worthwhile.

Next stop - the rainforest. Our 4th trip to the jungle. This was definitely our most amazing experience. We spent 3 nights at Heath River Lodge (in July it moved across and down the river to a new location only 5 minutes from the macaw clay lick) and one night at Sandoval Lake. The new Heath has hot water. At Heath they have different blinds in which to view birds and animals. Two mornings we sat in a very comfortable blind, while eating breakfast and watching over 100 birds at a time visit the clay lick. 3 kinds of macaws, 3 kinds of parrots and various other beautiful birds. They even had a toilet! Because you really spend an entire morning watching. Different birds show up almost on schedule throughout the morning from 5:30 to about 11:00. Then...they also had a mammal clay lick. While we were there over 100 Peccary's came. (wild pigs) It was exciting and frightening at the same time. You knew if you were just 3 feet lower they would have eaten you! We also went out by boat at night Cayman watching. Saw many as well as night birds and bats. Fun and scary. Since it was just past the end of the rain season, we made the trip at about 4 hours in and 4 3/4 (against the river flow) out. It was really quite pleasant with alot of wildlife sightings. Many Capybara, white Cayman, birds and a quick view of a deer. Saw only a few snakes, an agouti, 2 kinds of monkeys, a wild rabbit that was rescued just as a snake was about to get it, he ran between the legs of one of the workers for safe haven and many great bugs!

Sandoval is very secluded. First you walk 3 kilometers thru the mud to the most pristine, heavenly lake I have ever seen. No motors allowed - so they row you across the lake - where you will find 3-4 kinds of monkeys, Caymans, many birds, and 7 endangered river otters. They are huge - 5 - 6 feet long. We were so close that we could not only see them clearly munching fish, but we could hear them chomping on the bones. Again, night viewing of Cayman - a different kind this time. This is a special place. Saw a few baby macaws there too. Accommodations at both are adequate, but nothing fancy. It was really kind of funny to be at the Montasterio one night and in a hut with no electricity the next. Sandoval has limited electricity and hot water. Food at both was good, but not as good as we have previously had in other rain forest lodges. Rubber boots we given to us for our stay. Surprisingly they even had some to fit my son's size 13 foot. Heath is separate raised huts and Sandoval is rooms all connected. So your neighbors wake up call becomes your wake up call - even if it is 1/2 hour earlier. You really could hear everything if this bothers anyone. This place is so amazing though - that most anything can be overlooked just to be there.

We had private guides and tours throughout. It was really only a small amount more than going in a group and much better for us to be able to choose where and how long and not to have to shop. All were excellent. We felt they allowed us to get much for out of our Peru experience and they were always able to make everything run so smoothly. They were with us about 1/2 of each day and the advise they gave us for the rest of the day and the evening was invaluable. Believe me they were handsomely tipped! While in the rain forest the guide was really with us at all times. Our first time with a woman guide in the jungle. Our driver Manual was the driver for the actors while they filmed Motorcycle Diaries and he showed us many locations where they shot the movie. Now I must watch it again. We also had a nice short tour in Lima to the churches and Gold Museum before we departed. Well worth it. We were in a monastery when the bells first rang announcing the Pope's death. Many were gathered in vigil. It was kind of surreal. I am not great at these reports, but really feel I owe it as I get so much good info from this site.

Thanks Connett for your Peru report. Will be going in September and your information is valued. We are also going to the jungle, so was encouraged by your positive experience. Sounds like you had a great adventure.

Thanks Connette... this is a great account of your travels! Do you think that it is worthwhile to go to Peru just to visit Coscu and Machu Picchu? I only have about 6 days...

gingerhead,
For me no - but I have conversed by email with others on this board that go for short trips all the time, because that is all the can do. I just don't even want to pack for a short trip. It might be just personal preference. You will most likely lose a day both coming and going in Lima - depending on where you fly from. That would be a definite consideration. Best of luck to you on your plans.

connette,

How much did you tip the guide? There's 5 of us in our group, we're doing a private tour too. Where did you eat while staying in Aguas Calientes?

I just cannot seem to remember about the tipping for sure. I want to say $10.00 for full day and $5.00 for half day each?? I do remember our tour operator saying that many people only tip a small amount. Our guides were so good, we wanted to compensate them well. We only ate at the Pueblo as all the meals were included. It was great!

Thanks for the great trip report connette. Sory about your troubles in Lima though. We had no problems in Lima, in fact, I rather liked it. That could be because I had such low expectations for Lima and ended up having a good time there.

Your trip sounds like the same trip my husband and I did last Sept--Lima, Sacred Valley, MP (also at the Pueblo), Cuzco (at the Monasterio, GREAT hotel!!), and Heath River Lodge and Sandoval. It seems that you had better luck with seeing wildlife than we did though. We did see lots of Macaws but not too many mammals.

I look forward to going back to Peru and your report brought back some good memories. Thanks.