costaricalover

We flew Nature Air from Pavas airport to Bosque Del Cabo on February 12th, after spending one night at Xandari. We had stayed the previous year at El Remanso, the lodge next door, so we were familiar with the area. But I think if I flew into Puerto Jimenez on a regular basis, I'd still never get over the thrill of that incredibly scenic flight over the mountains and ocean. And where else in the world do you have a runway that backs on to a cemetery-what a trip!
We were met at the airport by the very friendly and outgoing "Kevin", who drove us the 1/2 hour drive to Bosque (pronounced Bos-kay, I discovered). For those of you who have not travelled this road for a while, it has been improved! What used to take 50 minutes now takes 30. Kevin was very proud of this!
Just before arriving at Bosque, a woman emerged from the forest off the main road, basket in hand, brim full of greens and odds and ends. She waved down Kevin, hopped into the landrover, and introduced herself to us as Maureen, one of the cooks at Bosque. She had been collecting edibles from the forest for that night's dinner! I knew we were coming to the right place! She has been at Bosque for many years, after living in New York City (I believe) and just gave it all up and never looked back. A very interesting woman, who we shared a few interesting conversations with.
Our arrival at Bosque was perfect! We were greeted warmly and given heavenly mango juice and offered lunch (which was delicous!) and then taken to our cabina for the next 4 nights (Tucan). Perhaps I am biased, but I fell in love with Tucan, and when we go back, we will stay in that cabina. It is one of the deluxe cabinas, with a loft on the 2nd floor(great if you have children) and an outdoor shower and tub to die for. The room seemed more spacious than most (although all have their perks in different ways) and I loved the extra large stone patio overlooking the Pacific ocean. We shared many special moments on that patio, the macaws would fly past us at eye level, so cacophonous (sp?), and SO welcome! Another plus about Tucan is the number of mature trees behind the cabina-we could watch the monkeys swinging from branch to branch, and the coatis seemed to like the grassy area behind us. There was also a tanager nesting outside of the shower area, but we tried not to disturb her.
We did the early morning bird watching tour with Carlos, and I would highly recommend this tour to anyone. He was wonderful, and we saw birds that we never would have spotted on our own.
The trails on the property are beatifully groomed, and I never felt nervous about venturing out on my own when hubby was tired. I loved the Creek trail that leads down to a beautiful waterfall, and also takes in a lovely vista of Golfe Dulce-highy recommended. I also fell in love with the tropical garden area, just past Casa Teka. The openness and quality of light in that area was mesmerizing, I think a wedding would be fantastic there! It is very quiet, and we tried not to disturb the visitors in Alemandra (sp?) and the other cabin, as both are open air.
Now to the food, including the communal dinners-dynamite! We really enjoyed doing our own thing during the day, and then talking with other guests at happy hour and dinner, comparing our daily events. We immediately hooked up with 2 couples, and spent the next 2 nights with them. I loved the guests at BDC! I think the collective sense of wonder at BDC forms a bond between guests. And another highlight was meeting my fellow fodorite, xyz99 and her husband, after communicating on this fourm. At lunch one day, someone tapped me on the shoulder and asked "are you costaricalover?" Love it!!
A few updates: Little Ben is 15 months old now, and quite the charmer. What a life he has! Phil and KIm (the owners) are the nicest people you could ever want to meet. I brought up the Fodors fourms to Kim one afternoon, and she knows all of you!! Well not all of you, but certainly Shilmac, Volcanogirl, Tully, etc., the regulars.
There is one new (possibly 6-8) new additions to the BDC family for those who have not been there recently. "Chin Chin" is the new resident Peccary! Kim and Phil have taken Chin Chin under their wings, found him somewhere in the jungle, abandoned, I believe. This little pig is the custest thing!! It follows Kim around like a dog, and has a very affectionate disposition. He was up at the lodge one afternoon, where everyone met him. David, a friend we met at BDC, took Chin Chin and a guide who did not speak english on the Titi trial with him, and they just followed him quietly to make sure he was ok. Unfortunately, David had been bitten by a non-poisonous snake the day before, and
felt safer doing the trail with the pig and the guide.
The other addition(s)-Kim and Phil's little dog pregnant with puppies and has probably had them by now.
In conclusion, anyone who is interested in nature, likes a bit of pampering, and wants to experience one of the most beautiful and biologically diverse areas in the world, get thee to BDC! Photos to follow.
P.S. Haven't really got into much detail about walking down the trails to the Pacific and Golfe Dulce. Both walks are beautiful, but if you are walking down to Golfe Dulce, I recommend getting picked up by someone at the lodge at "the Creek in Matapalo". It is a long, hot walk (and I am in good shape) and I couldn't imagine climbing back up that trail in the heat of the day. Bring lots of water!

hipvirgochick

Sounds like a great stay so far. Glad to hear you loved Tucan. Those loft cabinas are set up pretty cool, I think.
Chin Chin? That is too funny! I hope he's still around when I get there! I wonder if another pack will accept him in, poor thing. Kim posted pictures of Maggie's pups and she had 3 tan and 3 black. They're so adorable. Thanks for the report...awaiting more details. ;-) Good to hear about the road too. I hear it gets worse and beter, worse and better, depending on how often the repairs are done.

tully

Fantastic place eh? Yes Tucan is great, stayed there last year, it did certainly seem to get an excess of coatis - often I would be out on the stone patio and hear rustling and look down and spy several coming up/down the slope. Hmmm, I wonder if chin chin will still be there in June, maybe it would help me get over my peccary fear, lol! Maureen is definitely one of a kind, she made a "deconstructed banana cream pie" last year that I still have fond memories of Looking forward to pics.

volcanogirl

Hey, we stayed in Tucan too. I loved it. I'm a bathtub girl - a bathtub in the jungle is that much better. We saw a peccary hiking in Arenal; I would love to see a little baby one. BdC is a special place. We thought Carlos was great too, and what an eye for spotting!

cmerrell

I'd love to see your photos as well. Can't wait to get back to BdC! Terrific trip report.

Melissa5

costaricalover, I enjoyed reading your report. Bosque del Cabo sounds like a very special spot. Can you tell me about the weather during your February visit? Was it a comfortable temp for taking a morning nature walk?

When I read about the Osa peninsula and Bosque del Cabo, I feel excited...it seems like a great place for my husband and I. We want to enjoy some time together, and we're so different...he's a biologist, and I'm more of a writer/dreamer... I like the peace and atmosphere of nature, but I like my comforts too. It's up to me to plan our trip, and I'm leaning towards Bosque del Cabo and the Osa but I'm pretty nervous...about the weather, the tiny plane ride down there, bugs and snakes...

We enjoyed a wonderful family trip to Monteverde, Arenal, and Manuel Antonio in June a few years ago, but we had our young adult kids with us. I was nervous before that trip too but had a wonderful time. I didn't like the driving though. (Also afraid of flying.) Costa Rica is a magical place. I thought Manuel Antonio was overbuilt, and Monteverde was my favorite place.

Thanks again for sharing your trip report. Reading reports by other travelers usually helps me make the right decision for us.

I'm only worried about the poisonous snakes. My husband is a biologist/herpetologist, so he's interested in all the snakes.

I live in Southern Cal with mild weather nearly year-round, so I can't take the heat. On our first trip to Costa Rica, Manuel Antonio was way too hot for my comfort, but Arenal and Monteverde were fine. (That was June...rainy season.)

How did you enjoy Xandari? Was it worth the price?

shillmac

What fun--a little peccary named Chin Chin! Hadn't heard about that!

And Maggie has had her puppies, 3 apricot, 3 black like their dad. . .cutest little things. Kim says Maggie is NOT happy with Ben's attention right now and moving the pups all over the place. When our kids were growing up, every now and then we'd look at one another and say, "What a zoo!" More appropriate at Bosque!

Close ties, the Fodor's community and BdC. Kim is always the deliverer of messages from those of us who are homebound to those who are basking at Bosque. I remember having lunch one day when she came to my table to announce that hipvirgochick said to tell me hello. And the words Pasha and Pura Vida are synonomous down there! Now that's a compliment. No one called ME pura vida, and I'm not holding my breath!

So glad you had a great time. Bosque del Cabo is impossible to forget for so many reasons. Thanks for posting.

tully

Maybe I will change my name , probably easier to spell. I think you're pura vida so exhale now! You know I actually have a list jotted down of all the new babies and their approx age by the time we get down in June, lol. Trying to keep everyone straight!

janenicole

Thanks for filling us in about things at Bosque, CL. Can't wait to see Chin Chin. How funny. You know, we didn't meet Kim or Phil when we were there, so hoping to this trip. And after seeing the video with adorable Ben in it, hope to meet him! He is going to have such a cool childhood - living amongst the monkeys, etc. 3 more days and I am there!!!!

costaricalover

Melissa5, if you are a writer/dreamer, I can't think of any better place to be than Bosque! My husband is also a writer, and mentioned a few times over the course of our stay at Bosque that he'd be in heaven writing a book, overlooking the view of the Pacific from our patio on Tucan! It doesn't get much more inspiring than that!
Regarding the weather - yes, it is hot, but I never felt uncomfortable. I was feeling the heat a bit one day, and actually filled up the beautiful outdoor tub in Tucan, and fell asleep watching the monkeys swinging from tree to tree, laughing their heads off at the silly Canadian slab below them! There is always some kind of relief you can get, including the pool, and of course, an Imperial or two. But if you are comparing the weather at Bosque to Monteverde, Monteverde is a much cooler climate. As soon as you get to the coast in Costa Rica, it is much hotter than the interior.
The plane ride - I was once like you, terrified of flying in a small plane, but the flight is now something I look forward to! The views over the mountains and coastline are sensational, and I think it is the best way of getting to the Osa if you are on a restricted time schedule. I remember on my flight over one year ago, there were a number of woman who simultaneously popped a valium, 20 minutes before the flight, and seemed quite relaxed for the duration of the flight. I'm not advocating this, but perhaps if you are REALLY nervous, this would take the edge off for you.
I would also fly Nature Air as opposed to Sansa. I believe they have larger planes (our plane had 18 seats, so did't feel so small and vulnerable) and the pilots are really quite good. I do remember flying over in a 4 seater to Tambor around 10 years ago, and THAT was a flight I wouldn't want to repeat. But whatever you do, don't let your fears stop you!
Regarding Xandari-you can check out my trip report on this forum for details. I did think it was a beautiful place, but we booked the most expensive villa, and I couldn't justify spending that amount of money again for one night (it was our honeymoon). All the villas looked beautiful, so if we went back, we'd book one of the more reasonably priced ones. The trails on the property are beautiful!
Let me know what you decide to do.
And Shillmac, aka Motmot, when are you opening up your resort in the interior of Costa Rica? Rumour has it you've christened it "Fodorite Farm", and you'll be guiding bird tours, looking for motmots....

shillmac

LOL! Our "resort" will probably be a figment of our imagination for a while yet. Best case scenario is to begin it in June. Doubt seriously that will happen. But you have given me a great idea. We've been trying to think of an appropriate name for our little finca. Finca Fodor's does have a ring! Our daughter has suggested Finca de Mis Suenos, but that doesn't seem all that original. Finca de la Familia Loca would be a nice fit. . .

Guiding. . .I'm still trying to figure out how to guide my husband. It's proven more difficult that I imagined 34 years ago!

Tully, facebook me that list! Did both Yeni and Heilin (sp?) have boys? Gerly a girl? One is Naomi's age--October. So thinking 9 or 12 months for the mid-late summer. Will need to send gifts, although I think I sent some things for Kim to give them when she was visiting Phil's mom in Florida a few months ago. Newborn stuff. Come to think of it, seems like I sent girl and boy stuff, both. Maybe one of each?

Oh thank you, thank you. . nothing like beggin' for a Pura Vida!

volcanogirl

shillmac, the Imperial Palace has a nice ring to it!

hipvirgochick

Finca Mot-Mot!

hipvirgochick

Must include the Sloth Lounge. ;-)

Melissa5

<b>costaricalover:</b> Thanks for your reply! I can really imagine myself doing some serious writing/dreaming at Bosque on the Osa, from everyone's descriptions and the beautiful photos everyone has shared. I'm impressed that you look forward to the flight you once feared. It sounds like my husband would love the views from that flight. I think I'd feel better on the Nature Air's bigger plane as well with the 18 seats. And this was your honeymoon trip? Congrats on that...that's wonderful! Sounds romantic. I will read your Xandari report as well this week.

<b>shillmac:</b> How about "Shillmac's Shack" or:
Shillmac's Finca de Mis Suenos or
Shillmac's Finca de la Familia Loca ? I love all the names you mentioned, even the humorous ones! Best wishes for your new venture!

tully

Casa Calma? Casa Tranquilo? Definitely be hanging with hip in the Sloth Lounge

crlover - do you remember how long the trip from Xandari to Pavas took? Also, I notice they include a pick-up at the airport free. I'm assuming this does not include Pavas, correct?

costaricalover

Hi Tully-I think the trip was around 1/2 hour, but I was so distracted looking out the window that I can't be sure....
Xandari will pick you up at the international airport and deliver you to the resort at no charge. The Xandari to Pavas was an extra fee, somewhere around $25.
Shillmac-are you really going to open a little fodors finca, or are you just putting us on? Love the names so far!