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Back from Rio, Iguassu, Buenos Aires, etc..some thoughts

Back from Rio, Iguassu, Buenos Aires, etc..some thoughts

Old Feb 5th, 2003 | 07:16 AM
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RW
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Back from Rio, Iguassu, Buenos Aires, etc..some thoughts

<BR>I got back a few days ago from a spectacular trip to Rio de Janeiro, Iguassu Falls, Montevideo, Punta del Este, Colonia and Buenos Aires. The people we some of the kindest and most genuine that I’ve ever met. It was my first trip to Latin American; all others had been to Europe. We didn’t encounter any danger or scheming; and the exchange rates make it VERY affordable. We got a Merco Sur Airpass that proved to be excellent and affordable way to move around South America. The advice and suggestions from the posters on this board was extremely helpful! Thanks to everyone...even had a wild night at the Kilkenny in Buenos Aires, thanks to a poster’s suggestion. Below, though, I have tried to answer some of the lingering questions that I still had prior to my trip so that it may be a help to others.<BR><BR>1) Copacabana vs. Ipanema: where to stay? I really went back and forth on this one. We ended up staying at Hotel Debret in Copa, on the advice of a poster. Boy, what a nice surprise this hotel was! It had everything we needed: 2 nice beds, a fantastic shower, excellent customer service, filling breakfast buffet on the 11th floor with beach-spanning views and a cozy bar on the 2nd floor with acoustic guitar. The locations was key also since it was relatively close to Ipanema as well. The beachfront view from our bedroom window floored us. It doesn't have the luxury as the Copa Palace, but we weren't looking for that. If I did go with a family, I probably would have preferred Ipanema, since you do get the sense that it is nicer…but I wouldn’t stress about staying in Copa either. Oh, and Rio is so damn gorgeous! The people are always smiling…I’d definitely return.<BR><BR>2) How dangerous is Rio? I had psyched myself out about the danger in Rio, after reading several posts on this board and talking to friends. ). I really didn't know what to expect; I am well travelled so I wasn't sure if it was a typical big city danger or far beyond that. Well, we were cautious (digital camera pocket, not taking ATM card out with me, calling for cabs). We didn’t have any problems at all and felt more relaxed as the days went. I still carried camera in pocket, etc. I was advised even by hotel staff to try and stay out of Copa at night. <BR><BR>Other Rio comments: A highlight of our trip was going to a futbol match at the Fluminense stadium. Oh my God! What an experience...I consider myself a huge sports fan but the passion of the fans, the old charm of the stadium...and how nice..there were no adverisements anywhere...just a futbol game. Also, I went on the favela tour which was pretty good. Also, Get some Feshouda (sp?), and the corner fruit stands rock!<BR><BR>continued..
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Old Feb 5th, 2003 | 08:03 AM
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<BR>continued<BR><BR>3) Iguassu: which side to stay on, Argentina or Brazil side: Here again, we went back and forth but we were very happy with our decision to stay in Puerto Iguazu (Argentina side). We had heard it was much more laid back than Foz or Ciudad del Este, and we wanted it and got it. We stayed at the excellent Hotel St. George. Again, had everything we wanted and even had a nice pool to relax in after long days of walking. We weren’t sure whether we should have stayed at the Sheraton or at the hotel near the park on the Brazil side, but we are glad we didn’t. We liked the activity in the town, and probably would have felt holed up in the other locations. <BR><BR>4) How much time should we spend in Iguassu? We spent 2 days in Iguassu and it was enough. Our first day we went to the Argentina side and it was absolutely spectacular! I mean, seriously...it exceeded expectations! I couldn't believe it. The hikes are great and the first sight of the Falls is jaw-dropping. The boat ride under the San Martin falls was nice...and wet. Diablo was a roaring lion, what a sight. The next day we went to the Brazil side and honestly stayed only about 1 hour. For me, if I had to choose one side, clearly Argentina...clearly. But, doing both is still a good idea. One more thing, on the Brazil side there is a bird sanctuary (?) that was amazing. I didn't know it was there.<BR><BR>Other Iguassu comments: Be prepared to spend time waiting. I’m from the east coast and probably less patient than most but we were waiting at the ticket gate, and especially each time you wanted to take the light rail (up to 20 minutes at a time). And, for the boat ride, perhaps another 20-40 minutes. Make sure you go! It can be very hot and humid. Also, don't worry about getting a guide. . Once you get to the park, it is VERY easy to navigate.<BR>
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Old Feb 5th, 2003 | 08:04 AM
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continued (part 3/3)<BR><BR>6) Uruguay - Punta del Este: Well, I had high expectations for Punta del Este...and although it is very nice, it easily could have been a beach town in California, like La Jolla. I thought the people were very friendly, not snooty again like I expected. We got a good deal on a hotel, $30 / night...but again the exchange is very favorable now. One thing about the nightlife: things literally don't get started until 2-3 a.m....no kidding.<BR><BR>7) Uruguay -- Montevideo, Colonia. We stayed with friends in Montevideo who showed us around. It is a depressed city...several construction projects sit incomplete...they are very proud of their city but if it wasn't for our friends being there, we wouldn't have stopped by. But, there is a very pretty beach area, almost looks like Copa in the size and the banana curve of it. Also, the beaches in Uruguay are very, very nice. Not sure if it is worth a stopover if you only have 1-2 weeks in that region. We then went to Colonia..and it was OK in my opinion. No doubt, it is a quaint village with nice streets but I was expecting Toledo (Spain), Cesky Krumlov (Czech Republic), etc. Still, exceptionally nice people.<BR><BR>8) Should we go to Buenos Aires? Well, we went to BA for 3 days, also armed with information that it was dangerous. We stayed at Hotel Carlton for $75/night near Recoleta. We were advised not to walk around downtown after 7pm. The only part of the city that I did feel somewhat uneasy was in La Boca..in the daytime. I tell ya, one wrong turn and you might be in trouble. We saw a Tango show at Senor Tango. They literally bus people in from hotels across the city...and we got a great steak dinner with all you can drink wine for $5US. However, here is my thing with BA: first, no doubt, a european flavor in the city, but I was bored after a couple days. However, that being said, I think it would be an amazing city to spend an extended period of time, several months. <BR><BR>Other BA stuff: great leather products for sale...paid 50% of what I'd pay in US. Reminded my of Madrid a little bit, don’t know what else to say, very European. Buy some Alfahores (sp?), delicious. <BR><BR><BR>I hope some of this information helps answer any outstanding questions you may have. Enjoy your trip!<BR><BR>
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Old Feb 6th, 2003 | 01:31 PM
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Hi, RW,<BR>thanks for the wonderful trip report. We've been to all those places, some more than once (Rio, five times). I, too, thought that Punte del Este was disappointing because it seemed so much like many U.S. beach communities -- maybe it's the pine trees. I still remember going to a restaurant at which we could get reservations only at 10 p.m., because they opened then. When we left at midnight, the sidewalks were crowded with all sorts of people, including mothers with babies in strollers. Even the babies stayed up late!<BR>We also spent too much time in Buenos Aires. It's a beautiful, interesting city but we found it hard to figure out how to really get &quot;inside&quot; it. Maybe if we went again, we'd do it better. We were never at a loss, however, in Rio.<BR>Glad you had such a good time.<BR>
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Old Feb 7th, 2003 | 04:25 PM
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Great review! I too will be traveling to Argentina next week. I was wondering if there is another way (other than airplane) to get to Iguassu Falls from Buenos Aires. I was wondering if maybe there was a train or bus,how long would it take and how much does it cost?<BR><BR>Thanks.
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Old Feb 8th, 2003 | 07:24 AM
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RW
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<BR>Hello JQH -- I know you can take a bus from BA to Puerto Iguazu (Argentina side of the Falls) -- I'm pretty sure it is a 20 hour ride. I ran into a couple Australian girls in Puerto Iguazu who had taken a 20+ hour bus ride from Rio to Puerto Iguazu, had a 3 hour layover in Puerto Iguza and were boarding a 20 hour ride to Buenos Aires. Ugh! Sorry, don't know a price.<BR><BR>Marigold -- so true..we share a lot of the same opinions. Rio was something, wasn't it? Funny about Punta, I met a lady at the beach during the day and she suggested I meet her at a club that night...at 3 a.m.! At 1:00 a.m., the restaurants were still packed. I think I made it to 2:00 a.m. that night<BR><BR><BR>f
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Old Feb 8th, 2003 | 09:33 AM
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I'm so happy you enjoyed your stay in Rio de Janeiro, Hotel Debret. Should you return to my country, Brasil, don't forget there are plenty of other fine destinations: Chapada Diamantina, Parque dos Len&ccedil;&oacute;is Maranhenses, Fernando de Noronha, Salvador ..., just to name a few.
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Old Feb 8th, 2003 | 12:22 PM
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Great trip report RW, very honest and to the point.<BR>Punta del Este is an exciting resort<BR>very international so you are right,<BR>they go out dancing terribly late, which is ridiculous, a sing of our times, I for one also find ridiculous that young girls while at the beach find necessary to expose 95% of their anatomy to please boys....<BR>I guess that to really enjoy Punta it is better to know some locals. There are all kind of sports activities, like sailing, wind surf, tennis , horse riding, polo, etc. and a maraton that gathers most locals. Lots of fun.<BR>Buenos Aires is a city with many attractive activities but most of them take place in the Fall and Winter, like concerts, great operas in Teatro Colon, and the like. As well as art exhibits, conferences, .....in Summer those activities are out..<BR>I love Rio, and the Brazilian aproach to life, haven´t you notice Gustavo Keurten....they are like him.<BR>All the three countries have many exciting destinations, like the South In Argentina, Thermal baths in the NW of Uruguay, ....rural Estancias opened to tourists , great sky during their Winter, our Summer, and much more ..<BR>Again thank you for your report.
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Old Feb 8th, 2003 | 01:58 PM
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RH, great travel report, I am glad you liked the Debret as I stay there all the time and always recommend that hotel on this site. On my last trip I did tell the manager that I recommend the hotel and they were pleased. As far as going out late in Rio yes it is funny isn't it, one time I called for a reservation at Margutta restaurent in Ipanema and they told me that the first available table was at 12 midnight, I took it and I was not the last person to be seated, can you imagine. I must have finished dinner after 1 pm and then went out clubbing and the crowds didn't even get there yet. You just have to adjust your body clock a couple of hours later and you will be ok.
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Old Feb 13th, 2003 | 12:43 PM
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Dondiego -- actually I do think it was you that recommended Hotel Debret. I actually wrote a note to the head desk clerks thanking them for their great service.
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Old Feb 15th, 2003 | 06:03 PM
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Yeah the Debret is a great hotel for the price. I also used to stay at the Luxor Regente but since the currency started to weaken the Luxor Regent more than doubled in price and the Debret price was cut in half. I don't understand how that happened but I would rather pay $50 a day instead of $150 a day and they are right down the block from each other.
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Old May 18th, 2003 | 04:49 PM
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Old Jun 22nd, 2003 | 07:59 PM
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At the falls we stayed on the Brazil side, in the city of Foz du Iguacu. We stayed at the inexpensive (US$45 in June) Continental Inn. They met us at the airport and arranged tours for us at moderate prices. We would choose this hotel again at twice the price! The breakfast and the meals in the restaurant were topnotch.

We stayed 3 nights and were glad that we did. First day our flight arrived in the afternoon and we had dinner and toured the city and saw a delightful show. Second day was tours to Brazil side of the falls and it was quite an adventure, we took a raft trip. Third day we went to the Argentina side of the falls and relaxed in the hotel at night in preparation for our flight the next morning.
The Falls are a MUST SEE if you go to Brazil.
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