We Still Didn’t Drink All The Vino: Mai Tai Tom’s 2018 Return To Italy
Jan 7th, 2019, 03:57 PM
#165
Original Poster
On Day 3 in Piemonte, we hopped in our cars and visited the village where “The King Of Wines” is produced, Barolo. We took a tour of the Wine Museum located inside an old castle (well, I guess they’re all old). Next it was off to a town that nearly killed me. I needed mountain climbing gear to navigate the steep streets of Monforte d’Alba. The afternoon consisted of almost being crushed by a gigantic truck, walking in the wine fields, visiting some (as Kim would say) “felony cute” hill towns and a spectacular grove of trees that we just happened to pass by. We voted the trees "Most Poplar In Italy." Dinner on this night would include an interesting menu and an even more interesting menu selection by me. I’m much the wiser for it.
Story with photos in link below. Story without photos below the vineyard (sorry about the spacing). I work in Pages and it doesn't seem to like this format.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...smell-of-vino/
CHAPTER TWELVE - THE HILLS ARE ALIVE WITH THE SMELL OF VINO
DAY TWELVE - Roll Out The Barolo, Right Out Of Disney, Snow In Piemonte, A Hill Of A Climb, This Might Have Been A Mistake, 18-Wheeler Dead Ahead, It’s A Movie Set, Guided Tours Only, No Bra, A Poplar Spot and That’s Using Your Brain
The fog in the valley cleared early, and after a hearty breakfast at Rocche Costamagna, the caravan was ready to explore more picturesque Piemonte towns.
First stop … Barolo, the capital of “The King of Wines.” This village with medieval origins is another stellar town to discover.
Wandering the streets of Barolo, we passed by numerous quaint shops and restaurants.
On this quiet day, you could almost imagine that you had the entire town to yourself.
Well, almost.
We were on our way to visit the town’s Regional Wine Center, the Ethnographic - Oenological Museum, which is located inside the 11th-century Falletti Castle on a charming town square.
The interactive museum opened in the autumn of 2010, and the castle has been around for more than 1,000 years.
There are numerous displays that give information on the history, as well as the myths, of vino. I believe the exhibition on the right is Adam and Eve on their first date (I wasn’t reading carefully). So much for that apple theory.
Tracy called the inside of this museum “Disneyesque.”
In the castle kitchen, Mary auditioned for an episode of Chopped.
The museum also takes a look at movies about wine, and how wine played important roles in some movies. The wine cellar scene with Ingrid Bergman and Cary Grant was an integral part of the movie Notorious.
Whenever Tracy and I find a large fireplace in any castle, odds are one of us will stand in it, always careful that a fire has not been lit.
This is either a wine area map or a painting from the Joan Miró collection.
Views from the castle replicate so many in Piemonte … astounding.
We walked around town a little more admiring the views, and then got back in our cars for the short journey to what I call the “Mt. Everest of Piemonte,” Montforte d’Alba. Our visit to the medieval village built in the 10th century started innocently enough.
After parking at the bottom of town, we immediately spied a large church (shocking!). Chiesa della Madonna della Neve is dedicated to the Snow Madonna. In a foreshadowing moment, we climbed a number of stairs to enter. Before walking inside we admired the snowflakes around the entrance.
Inside we were immediately struck (not literally) by the gorgeous ceiling with lots of blue.
The frescoes inside this church rival almost any we saw on this trip, which as you know are infinite.
Although we’ve been to so many churches, each one offers something unique to add to its beauty.
We hung around here for a bit, but it was now time to climb. Our goal was to see the Palazzo Scarampi (whose name for some reason made me crave shellfish) and then climb further to take a look at a small amphitheater where musicians like to perform because of its perfect acoustics.
The streets became steeper and steeper, and as Kim, Mary and Tracy became just a faraway blur, I continued my trudge upwards. I was hoping for a basecamp to rest on the way up, but all I saw were colorful, narrow steep streets and alleys that I fear signaled my impending doom.
When I reached the Palazzo Scarampi, I knew I was close. Finally, I arrived at the Horszowski Auditorium. This concert hall/amphitheatre is named for the pianist Horszowski who played here.
While Tracy took a selfie, I told my plight to some other weary visitors.
Flowers and grapevines flourished in this environment.
We started to walk back down in search of a restaurant.
On this lazy Thursday, it seemed restaurants were taking the day off.
Finally, in a little piazza, we found the Albergo-Ristorante Grappolo S’Oro. A little pasta, and I was ready for the rest of the day. No, it did not contain sage butter.
Back in our cars, we headed for Rodino for the express purpose of having friends Greg and Gloria take a picture of the town’s sign, because they have a friend named Rodino. Who says I’m an evil taskmaster?
Getting out of town proved to be much harder than we thought thanks to the appearance of two delivery trucks blocking the street. Adding to our dilemma, a line of cars was forming behind us, meaning reverse was not an option. Since there were no persons accompanying these blocking trucks, this was no time to be passive. I narrowly inched by the trucks with at least half a millimeter to spare. I thought our collision warning system was going to explode it got so loud.
We then headed into the countryside towards Sinio. The road narrowed to the point where if a car was coming in the opposite direction, it could be curtains. That proved doubly troublesome when Tracy spied an orange semi-trailer truck larger than the Starship Enterprise barreling toward us.
In a stroke of luck, there was a small grassy area on the side of the road where we maneuvered our car, and it also happened to be located in a beautiful vineyard showing off its gorgeous autumn colors.
We now had our Facebook photo for the day to make our “friends” envious, even those that don’t know me from Adam.
We drove into the tiny town of Sinio and walked the empty streets for a bit.
The views once again were stupendous …
… and the town itself resembles a movie set.
Then it was time to retrace our steps (the drive on the narrow road), and fortunately we didn’t encounter another truck.
Serralunga d’Alba, another medieval hill town, was our next stop. Like so many of these towns, it’s dominated by the castle above the town. We parked next to Chiesa di San Sebastiano, a church restored in the late 1800s.
We checked out the interior, and then headed outside, walking past a memorial to the area’s war dead and were greeted by a steep hill that would take us to Castello di Serralunga d’Alba. My legs were not happy, but we made it up the hill.
The only way to tour the castle is by guided tour, and we weren’t in the mood to wait for the next English tour, so we took in the views of the countryside …
… and the town, and went on our way.
At this juncture, Greg and Gloria headed back to Rocche Costamagna for a little r&r, while our plan was ostensibly to head to Bra. Yes, our cups runneth over with places to see.
On the way to Bra, we passed by a grove of Poplar trees, but there was no place to stop and take photos. Once inside Bra, our GPS system(s) went all to hell. Bra had a couple of sights we wanted to see, but try as we might, they were unable to be found. Since it was late in the afternoon and we were strapped for time, it was time to leave Bra behind.
Having no clue which was the road we had come in on that contained those dazzling Poplar trees, we tried to utilize something new … our instincts. Incredibly, even at our advanced ages, our instincts proved correct, and soon we were stopping at a little parking area near the grove of trees.
Our photographers, Kim and Tracy, scurried out of the car, dodging oncoming traffic, all in the name of photography.
It was well worth their effort …
..because they took some beautiful shots of this area.
Once again the unexpected becomes one of the best moments of a trip.
We had one more stop on the way back to La Morra. Passing our home village we once again headed toward Barolo.
Only this time it was to stop and take photos from a vantage point we had seen in the morning, only now with better light.
As we headed home, there was one more look out point where we made a quick stop. From this spot, there was a perfect view of La Morra.
Back in La Morra, Tracy and I walked a block to the nearby 18th century Chiesa di San Sebastiano.
It only took a few minutes to take a look at this small church.
We strolled around the village, and back to Rocche Costamagna.
We had a few moments to snooze before wine time on the terrace (wine always trumps sleep). Thanks to a hotel recommendation, we walked though town until eventually finding our restaurant for the evening, Locanda Fontanazza Osteria. It was a charming restaurant with quite an interesting and diverse menu.
Mary started with the Galletto e Gallinacci (Cockerel and Gallinacci Mushrooms). I told Mary since she was eating part of a rooster, she better not wake us up early. She followed that up with swordfish with turnip tops and a cannellini bean cream.
Tracy and Gloria split chicken liver pate on fried brioche with fig jam.
Tracy really enjoyed her traditional homemade Tajarin with veal roast ragout.
I started with traditional homemade ravioli del plan stuffed with goat cheese (Wow). I then ventured way outside my comfort zone with fried calf brains with butter, pumpkin, chicory and almonds. To my relief … it wasn’t bad.
There was also an order of seared lamb chops with peppers and endive, along with pasta with prawns and hummus. Kim ordered Mallard with potatoes and onions. After finishing his Mallard, Kim said he felt “just ducky” and ready to “get down.”
All this plus three bottles of wine amounted to €60 a couple.
The walk back to Rocche Costamagna felt good since we needed the exercise to shed some of the few thousand calories we had consumed.
Sadly, tomorrow would be our final day in Piemonte, which I am trying to convince Tracy would be a great place for us to live out our lives. Greg and Gloria had booked a couple of winery tours, while the Fearsome Foursome would venture in the opposite direction to explore more of Piemonte.
We’d check out the lovely (and, once again, steep) town of Saluzzo and then visit a nearby castle containing some unique frescoes. After lunch, we’d hit our final town, Fossano, where we’d tour for about 90 minutes.
Finally, back in La Morra, we scouted out a surprisingly spectacular local church, while Kim and Mary took one for the team and climbed the tower to get one last beautiful photo of the surrounding fields and vineyards.
Our dinner wound up being the best of the trip, complete with the greatest pasta dish ever served on planet Earth.
Next: DAY THIRTEEN - Up Up Up, Would You Like To See My Elevator?, I’m Not Going Back Up, A Slight Parking Error, “Master Of The Manta”, Exploring Fossano, Is There Anything To See Here?, This Will be Cool When It’s Finished, International Restaurant Of The Year, 40 Red Eggs and A Very Generous Umbrella Policy
Story with photos in link below. Story without photos below the vineyard (sorry about the spacing). I work in Pages and it doesn't seem to like this format.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...smell-of-vino/
CHAPTER TWELVE - THE HILLS ARE ALIVE WITH THE SMELL OF VINO
DAY TWELVE - Roll Out The Barolo, Right Out Of Disney, Snow In Piemonte, A Hill Of A Climb, This Might Have Been A Mistake, 18-Wheeler Dead Ahead, It’s A Movie Set, Guided Tours Only, No Bra, A Poplar Spot and That’s Using Your Brain
The fog in the valley cleared early, and after a hearty breakfast at Rocche Costamagna, the caravan was ready to explore more picturesque Piemonte towns.
First stop … Barolo, the capital of “The King of Wines.” This village with medieval origins is another stellar town to discover.
Wandering the streets of Barolo, we passed by numerous quaint shops and restaurants.
On this quiet day, you could almost imagine that you had the entire town to yourself.
Well, almost.
We were on our way to visit the town’s Regional Wine Center, the Ethnographic - Oenological Museum, which is located inside the 11th-century Falletti Castle on a charming town square.
The interactive museum opened in the autumn of 2010, and the castle has been around for more than 1,000 years.
There are numerous displays that give information on the history, as well as the myths, of vino. I believe the exhibition on the right is Adam and Eve on their first date (I wasn’t reading carefully). So much for that apple theory.
Tracy called the inside of this museum “Disneyesque.”
In the castle kitchen, Mary auditioned for an episode of Chopped.
The museum also takes a look at movies about wine, and how wine played important roles in some movies. The wine cellar scene with Ingrid Bergman and Cary Grant was an integral part of the movie Notorious.
Whenever Tracy and I find a large fireplace in any castle, odds are one of us will stand in it, always careful that a fire has not been lit.
This is either a wine area map or a painting from the Joan Miró collection.
Views from the castle replicate so many in Piemonte … astounding.
We walked around town a little more admiring the views, and then got back in our cars for the short journey to what I call the “Mt. Everest of Piemonte,” Montforte d’Alba. Our visit to the medieval village built in the 10th century started innocently enough.
After parking at the bottom of town, we immediately spied a large church (shocking!). Chiesa della Madonna della Neve is dedicated to the Snow Madonna. In a foreshadowing moment, we climbed a number of stairs to enter. Before walking inside we admired the snowflakes around the entrance.
Inside we were immediately struck (not literally) by the gorgeous ceiling with lots of blue.
The frescoes inside this church rival almost any we saw on this trip, which as you know are infinite.
Although we’ve been to so many churches, each one offers something unique to add to its beauty.
We hung around here for a bit, but it was now time to climb. Our goal was to see the Palazzo Scarampi (whose name for some reason made me crave shellfish) and then climb further to take a look at a small amphitheater where musicians like to perform because of its perfect acoustics.
The streets became steeper and steeper, and as Kim, Mary and Tracy became just a faraway blur, I continued my trudge upwards. I was hoping for a basecamp to rest on the way up, but all I saw were colorful, narrow steep streets and alleys that I fear signaled my impending doom.
When I reached the Palazzo Scarampi, I knew I was close. Finally, I arrived at the Horszowski Auditorium. This concert hall/amphitheatre is named for the pianist Horszowski who played here.
While Tracy took a selfie, I told my plight to some other weary visitors.
Flowers and grapevines flourished in this environment.
We started to walk back down in search of a restaurant.
On this lazy Thursday, it seemed restaurants were taking the day off.
Finally, in a little piazza, we found the Albergo-Ristorante Grappolo S’Oro. A little pasta, and I was ready for the rest of the day. No, it did not contain sage butter.
Back in our cars, we headed for Rodino for the express purpose of having friends Greg and Gloria take a picture of the town’s sign, because they have a friend named Rodino. Who says I’m an evil taskmaster?
Getting out of town proved to be much harder than we thought thanks to the appearance of two delivery trucks blocking the street. Adding to our dilemma, a line of cars was forming behind us, meaning reverse was not an option. Since there were no persons accompanying these blocking trucks, this was no time to be passive. I narrowly inched by the trucks with at least half a millimeter to spare. I thought our collision warning system was going to explode it got so loud.
We then headed into the countryside towards Sinio. The road narrowed to the point where if a car was coming in the opposite direction, it could be curtains. That proved doubly troublesome when Tracy spied an orange semi-trailer truck larger than the Starship Enterprise barreling toward us.
In a stroke of luck, there was a small grassy area on the side of the road where we maneuvered our car, and it also happened to be located in a beautiful vineyard showing off its gorgeous autumn colors.
We now had our Facebook photo for the day to make our “friends” envious, even those that don’t know me from Adam.
We drove into the tiny town of Sinio and walked the empty streets for a bit.
The views once again were stupendous …
… and the town itself resembles a movie set.
Then it was time to retrace our steps (the drive on the narrow road), and fortunately we didn’t encounter another truck.
Serralunga d’Alba, another medieval hill town, was our next stop. Like so many of these towns, it’s dominated by the castle above the town. We parked next to Chiesa di San Sebastiano, a church restored in the late 1800s.
We checked out the interior, and then headed outside, walking past a memorial to the area’s war dead and were greeted by a steep hill that would take us to Castello di Serralunga d’Alba. My legs were not happy, but we made it up the hill.
The only way to tour the castle is by guided tour, and we weren’t in the mood to wait for the next English tour, so we took in the views of the countryside …
… and the town, and went on our way.
At this juncture, Greg and Gloria headed back to Rocche Costamagna for a little r&r, while our plan was ostensibly to head to Bra. Yes, our cups runneth over with places to see.
On the way to Bra, we passed by a grove of Poplar trees, but there was no place to stop and take photos. Once inside Bra, our GPS system(s) went all to hell. Bra had a couple of sights we wanted to see, but try as we might, they were unable to be found. Since it was late in the afternoon and we were strapped for time, it was time to leave Bra behind.
Having no clue which was the road we had come in on that contained those dazzling Poplar trees, we tried to utilize something new … our instincts. Incredibly, even at our advanced ages, our instincts proved correct, and soon we were stopping at a little parking area near the grove of trees.
Our photographers, Kim and Tracy, scurried out of the car, dodging oncoming traffic, all in the name of photography.
It was well worth their effort …
..because they took some beautiful shots of this area.
Once again the unexpected becomes one of the best moments of a trip.
We had one more stop on the way back to La Morra. Passing our home village we once again headed toward Barolo.
Only this time it was to stop and take photos from a vantage point we had seen in the morning, only now with better light.
As we headed home, there was one more look out point where we made a quick stop. From this spot, there was a perfect view of La Morra.
Back in La Morra, Tracy and I walked a block to the nearby 18th century Chiesa di San Sebastiano.
It only took a few minutes to take a look at this small church.
We strolled around the village, and back to Rocche Costamagna.
We had a few moments to snooze before wine time on the terrace (wine always trumps sleep). Thanks to a hotel recommendation, we walked though town until eventually finding our restaurant for the evening, Locanda Fontanazza Osteria. It was a charming restaurant with quite an interesting and diverse menu.
Mary started with the Galletto e Gallinacci (Cockerel and Gallinacci Mushrooms). I told Mary since she was eating part of a rooster, she better not wake us up early. She followed that up with swordfish with turnip tops and a cannellini bean cream.
Tracy and Gloria split chicken liver pate on fried brioche with fig jam.
Tracy really enjoyed her traditional homemade Tajarin with veal roast ragout.
I started with traditional homemade ravioli del plan stuffed with goat cheese (Wow). I then ventured way outside my comfort zone with fried calf brains with butter, pumpkin, chicory and almonds. To my relief … it wasn’t bad.
There was also an order of seared lamb chops with peppers and endive, along with pasta with prawns and hummus. Kim ordered Mallard with potatoes and onions. After finishing his Mallard, Kim said he felt “just ducky” and ready to “get down.”
All this plus three bottles of wine amounted to €60 a couple.
The walk back to Rocche Costamagna felt good since we needed the exercise to shed some of the few thousand calories we had consumed.
Sadly, tomorrow would be our final day in Piemonte, which I am trying to convince Tracy would be a great place for us to live out our lives. Greg and Gloria had booked a couple of winery tours, while the Fearsome Foursome would venture in the opposite direction to explore more of Piemonte.
We’d check out the lovely (and, once again, steep) town of Saluzzo and then visit a nearby castle containing some unique frescoes. After lunch, we’d hit our final town, Fossano, where we’d tour for about 90 minutes.
Finally, back in La Morra, we scouted out a surprisingly spectacular local church, while Kim and Mary took one for the team and climbed the tower to get one last beautiful photo of the surrounding fields and vineyards.
Our dinner wound up being the best of the trip, complete with the greatest pasta dish ever served on planet Earth.
Next: DAY THIRTEEN - Up Up Up, Would You Like To See My Elevator?, I’m Not Going Back Up, A Slight Parking Error, “Master Of The Manta”, Exploring Fossano, Is There Anything To See Here?, This Will be Cool When It’s Finished, International Restaurant Of The Year, 40 Red Eggs and A Very Generous Umbrella Policy
Jan 8th, 2019, 05:03 PM
#166
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Maitaitom, each chapter of your exploration of northern Italy is as wonderful as the previous. The phrases "stellar town" and "astounding views" can be said of so many places you visited. Another great segment! Fantastic photos.
Jan 9th, 2019, 02:33 AM
#167
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Wow. You saw quite a few more of the gorgeous little towns than we did. You really are a taskmaster - HA! A few things really stood out to us about this area of the Piemonte. "Wow" scenery everywhere, uncrowded and non-touristy little towns, great wine and food, approachable and
friendly people. What more could you ask for? It's easy to fall in love with the area.
friendly people. What more could you ask for? It's easy to fall in love with the area.
Jan 11th, 2019, 03:28 PM
#170
Original Poster
We had one more day to play in Piemonte, and, of course, we made every minute count. It really was a day of ups and downs. First stop was Saluzzo, with more churches, but the one from the 13th century happened to be one of the best. After a quick lunch, we took a short drive to The Castello della Manta, a real find, even with a minor error in parking. Fabulous frescoes! We found the Fountain of Youth there. Our final stop was the hill town of Fossano where we even got a da Vinci fix. Back in La Morra, Kim and Mary did some climbing, and we all took a look at one last remarkable church. It was a beautiful evening, so our patio party had some extra color added to it. We also enjoyed our best dinner of the trip … but …. (for story with perhaps our most colorful pictures ever in one post ... and much less spelling errors, please click the link below). Verbiage only below the photo of the remarkable Chiesa e Convento di San Giovanni in Saluzzo.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...s-of-piemonte/
CHAPTER THIRTEEN - THE UPS AND DOWNS AND UPS OF PIEMONTE
DAY THIRTEEN - Up Up Up, Would You Like To See My Elevator?, I’m Not Going Back Up, A Slight Parking Error, “Master Of The Manta”, Exploring Fossano, Is There Anything To See Here?, This Will be Cool When It’s Finished, International Restaurant Of The Year, 40 Red Eggs and A Very Generous Umbrella Policy
It was simply another gorgeous day in Piemonte paradise. Greg and Gloria slept in to get ready for their day of wine tasting. Meanwhile, Hope, Crosby and the two Lamours were on the Road to Saluzzo, located about 40 minutes west of La Morra.
Most of this 15th-century town (it was also once a powerful city-state) is still intact, and as we would find out contains some incredibly steep cobbled streets. It’s also known for its (ahem) churches.
Not surprisingly, the first place we stepped into was Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta, built in the late 15th century.
The first thing you notice when entering is a 15th-century wooden crucifix that hangs on the arch of the central nave. It is a large church measuring nearly 270 feet long and 69 feet wide.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a great church without a great ceiling.
The Chapel of the SS. Sacramento was built by Bishop Morozzo in 1729.
We visited a few of the numerous altars, like the Altare del Beato Giovenale Ancina. The altar of the Beato Ancina, erected in 1890, preserves the urn with the remains of the bishop.
Considered a masterpiece in the Chapel of the Santissimo is the16th-century polyptych depicting the "Deposition" by Hans Clemer. Since Tracy works at a law firm, she looked closely at the “Deposition.”
There is also a wooden 14th-century crucifix, and a Baroque altar by Carlo Giuseppe Plura.
The Cattedrale di Maria Vergine Assunta stood out, as well.
I tried to stay inside because I knew what was coming next, a series of steep streets up to the old town of the Margraves on the hill.
There were signs that autumn was in the air.
Although my legs attempted a revolt, I and the rest of the group finally summited the top. Surrounded by beautiful buildings, we suddenly realized we were missing Mary.
In a few moments, she exited one of the buildings. “Where were you?” we asked.
“Oh, an elderly gentleman invited me into his house to show me his elevator,” she replied. I guess he really knew how to push her button, and luckily he was on the up and up.
We walked around admiring the buildings, but there was one more church in this town we had been told was well worth seeing.
Nearby was Chiesa e Convento di San Giovanni, which was built in 1325. Until the cathedral was built, it was the most important religious building in Saluzzo. The bell tower was added 50 years later.
Once again, this church differed mightily from others we had seen. You could feel yourself transported to the 14th century, well except for the other tourists.
The giant golden wooden tabernacle is hard to miss as you enter.
There are cycles of frescoes throughout depicting the Passion of Christ, although there was no fresco of Mel Gibson.
The west side opens to the Cavassa Chapel, with a portal in white marble, which is the work of the sculptor Matteo Sanmicheli. It’s decorated with frescoes dating back to the early 16th century. Also here is the tomb of Galeazzo Cavassa, who was a “general vicar of the marquisate of Saluzzo.”
After wandering through the church, we briefly visited the courtyard, and found to our surprise this church is attached to the San Giovanni Resort. You can even have your wedding in the cloister.
Back outside. We walked by the Torre Civica Di Saluzzo, and headed back down (thankfully).
I wanted to see the Museo Civico Casa Cavassa, the residence of Galeazzo Cavassa (whose tomb we had just seen) and his son Francesco. It looked like an interesting place. Unfortunately when we got back down, I checked our map and sadly realized it was located near to where we had been at the top of town. That’s when the four of us decided a bite to eat might be a better choice.
We were quickly back on the road to visit a castle located only four kilometers from Saluzzo, Castello della Manta. It is here where I made another directional error (I was on a roll).
As we made our way to the castle we saw a sign for parking. It looked like we’d be the only ones visiting Castello della Manta because we were the only car parked here. Being Piemonte, there was the obligatory 10-15 minute walk up a steep path to the castle. When we reached the top, lo and hold there was another parking lot adjacent to the castle. At least my Fitbit was happy.
Constructed between the 13th and 15th centuries, Castello della Manta “gradually became a medieval stronghold in a mansion.” We paid our €8 (no senior discount, even for morons who parked in the wrong place) and entered.
Because we hadn’t climbed enough, we went up two floors to the main kitchen with a large barrel-vaulted ceiling and huge fireplace where, for once, neither of us stood.
We then entered the vestibule that contains a painted and coffered 15th-century ceiling.
It also had a 15th-century painting depicting the Virgin suckling the Child.
We the entered the coolest room in the castle. The Baronale Hall displays a dazzling cycle of frescoes that completely cover the walls.
According to literature, the frescoes are “a rare testimony of late-gothic profane painting in northern Italy.”
Nobody knows who actually painted these 15th-century frescoes, so they are attributed to the “Maestro della Manta.”
Some of the frescoes include The Nine Worthies and the Nine Worthy Women. Verses in old French are at the bottom of these frescoes that recount their deeds in history. I probably should have studied harder in high school French class.
A couple of the Worthies include Alexander The Great and Julius Caesar, while the Worthy Women are all taken from mythology, including Penthesilia, one of the Queens of the Amazons. She was killed by that heel Achilles. I don’t know which one is Pentheselia.
On the wall opposite the fireplace is a fresco of the Crucifixion with Saints John The Baptist and Saint Quentin.
Opposite the wall with all those worthy folks is The Fountain of Youth.
I wished with my aching feet I could have jumped in with them.
This fresco depicts the procession of the new young people
after the bath in the fountain of youth. I was not among them.
We walked through the Tree Room, which I am pretty positive is not its real name.
Next on the tour was the Sala Matilda Orsiri and the Camera da letto di Michele Antonio di Sallustio della Manta.
Unfortunately I walked into the trophy room, and after seeing this poor guy, I left.
There was a lovely corridor on the way to our last room, but it the lighting was too weird to take a photo. Of course, that is why the internet was invented (photo below).
Finally, it was time to visit the Hall of Grotesques, which takes its name from the decorative motifs.
The room is “decorated by allegorical figures and mythological scenes, an important testimony of Manneristic culture in the Saluzzese.”
The large central panel of the ceiling depicts the flaming chariot of the prophet Elijah.
The views from inside this castle were pretty nice, too.
All the staircases had a unique flair to them, and as I always do when I leave these places, I said “Good Knight” to our host.
Before leaving the castle, we headed down to the wine cellar, but since there was no tasting, we walked to another building on the property.
Near the castle is the La Chiesa Di Santa Maria Al Castello, which had recently been restored.
It dates from the 15th century.
We walked back to the car, and “miracoli” it was still the only one there.
On our drive back to La Morra, we had one more town to visit. The town is dominated by the 14th-century brick Castle of the Acaja family. Thanks to some nice and knowledgeable locals, they told us that we had parked in an illegal space. Fortunately there was a free parking lot situated less than 1/2 block from where I had almost got us ticketed.
Walking into town we passed by a large bronze sculpture called the Monumentom al cadre (Monument To The Fallen). It remembers the Fallen of Fossano in the First and Second World Wars.
In the distance were two cannons.
We also walked by a temporary display (ends on January 13) of a catapult designed by Leonardo da Vinci. “The Leonardesque catapult of Fossano is a special object because it does not want to be an instrument of offense, but defense” … sort of like the Baltimore Ravens.
The Cattedrale di Santa Maria e San Giovanale opened at 3 p.m., and since we were a few minutes early we wandered around town. Had the day not been so hazy, the panoramic views from a nearby terrace might have been spectacular. Instead we toured the town and took a few photos until the church opened a little before 3.
Fossano’s cathedral is dedicated to Santa Maria and San Giovenale. Constructed in last decades of the 18th century, it contains ten chapels.
Many famous Italian painters of the time added artwork.
Back outside, we headed toward the gigantic Castello degli Acaja.
This castle was a “defensive castle by Prince Filippo d'Acaia became a noble residence under the Savoy domination.” It’s also been a prison and it was utilized as a barracks, stable and warehouses for the army during World War II.
We could have climbed all the way to the top for incredible views, but once again that darned haze made a climb futile, so it was time to drive back to our home base.
In La Morra, we visited Parrocchia Di San Martino, a church dedicated to La Morra’s patron saint San Martino.
This church provided us with another surprise with its luscious interior.
It “houses precious artistic testimonies, altarpiece, frescoes and sacred furnishings,” including Cannelli Giovanni Carlo Alberti’s masterpiece the Madonna With Child with Saint Martino and Saint Crispino, while the dome depicts the Triumph of St. Martino.
Once again …
… a lot more time was spent here than we had first anticipated.
We had strayed a little ahead of Kim and Mary, since they had ducked into an art gallery. Tracy and I checked out a new panoramic terrace being constructed that will be open to the public next year and then headed back to Rocche Costamagna to get ready for our last terrace soirée.
Meanwhile, since the weather in La Morra was better than the haze of Fossano, Kim and Mary decided to climb the 94 or so steps up the Torre Campanaria di La Morra.
And they have the photos to prove it.
The tower, located in the belvedere square, stands at a little more than 100 feet and the views were excellent. I thanked them for taking one for my legs.
At the bewitching hour of 6:15, the six of us met on our terrace for our last round of vino, formaggio and prosciutto. Greg and Gloria had enjoyed their day of wine tasting, so why not partake in a little more.
The sky decided to save the best for last, with a red hue making the skyline pop as we savored the moment.
As I’ve said, Rocche Costamagne might be the best b&b we have ever stayed (along with Les Jardins de Loïs in Beaune and the spot we would hit in a few days in Orta San Giulio). Great hosts, wonderful ambiance and views second to none made this a perfect lodging experience.
We had an 8 p.m. reservation at a restaurant that I had booked months in advance to ensure we’d spend our last night here. It turned out to be the best restaurant of the trip and it was awarded Mai Tai Tom’s International Restaurant of 2018 (someday they will be proud of this award). It also served the most incredible pasta dish I have ever tasted, and I would go back to Piemonte just to have it again.
Unfortunately, since this chapter has gone on so long, I will have to wait until tomorrow to write about this incredible restaurant.
Next (finally): International Restaurant Of The Year, Could I Get Someone To Help Me Hoist This Wine List?, 40 Red Eggs, This Is Rich, Need A Lift and A Very Generous Umbrella Policy
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...s-of-piemonte/
CHAPTER THIRTEEN - THE UPS AND DOWNS AND UPS OF PIEMONTE
DAY THIRTEEN - Up Up Up, Would You Like To See My Elevator?, I’m Not Going Back Up, A Slight Parking Error, “Master Of The Manta”, Exploring Fossano, Is There Anything To See Here?, This Will be Cool When It’s Finished, International Restaurant Of The Year, 40 Red Eggs and A Very Generous Umbrella Policy
It was simply another gorgeous day in Piemonte paradise. Greg and Gloria slept in to get ready for their day of wine tasting. Meanwhile, Hope, Crosby and the two Lamours were on the Road to Saluzzo, located about 40 minutes west of La Morra.
Most of this 15th-century town (it was also once a powerful city-state) is still intact, and as we would find out contains some incredibly steep cobbled streets. It’s also known for its (ahem) churches.
Not surprisingly, the first place we stepped into was Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta, built in the late 15th century.
The first thing you notice when entering is a 15th-century wooden crucifix that hangs on the arch of the central nave. It is a large church measuring nearly 270 feet long and 69 feet wide.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a great church without a great ceiling.
The Chapel of the SS. Sacramento was built by Bishop Morozzo in 1729.
We visited a few of the numerous altars, like the Altare del Beato Giovenale Ancina. The altar of the Beato Ancina, erected in 1890, preserves the urn with the remains of the bishop.
Considered a masterpiece in the Chapel of the Santissimo is the16th-century polyptych depicting the "Deposition" by Hans Clemer. Since Tracy works at a law firm, she looked closely at the “Deposition.”
There is also a wooden 14th-century crucifix, and a Baroque altar by Carlo Giuseppe Plura.
The Cattedrale di Maria Vergine Assunta stood out, as well.
I tried to stay inside because I knew what was coming next, a series of steep streets up to the old town of the Margraves on the hill.
There were signs that autumn was in the air.
Although my legs attempted a revolt, I and the rest of the group finally summited the top. Surrounded by beautiful buildings, we suddenly realized we were missing Mary.
In a few moments, she exited one of the buildings. “Where were you?” we asked.
“Oh, an elderly gentleman invited me into his house to show me his elevator,” she replied. I guess he really knew how to push her button, and luckily he was on the up and up.
We walked around admiring the buildings, but there was one more church in this town we had been told was well worth seeing.
Nearby was Chiesa e Convento di San Giovanni, which was built in 1325. Until the cathedral was built, it was the most important religious building in Saluzzo. The bell tower was added 50 years later.
Once again, this church differed mightily from others we had seen. You could feel yourself transported to the 14th century, well except for the other tourists.
The giant golden wooden tabernacle is hard to miss as you enter.
There are cycles of frescoes throughout depicting the Passion of Christ, although there was no fresco of Mel Gibson.
The west side opens to the Cavassa Chapel, with a portal in white marble, which is the work of the sculptor Matteo Sanmicheli. It’s decorated with frescoes dating back to the early 16th century. Also here is the tomb of Galeazzo Cavassa, who was a “general vicar of the marquisate of Saluzzo.”
After wandering through the church, we briefly visited the courtyard, and found to our surprise this church is attached to the San Giovanni Resort. You can even have your wedding in the cloister.
Back outside. We walked by the Torre Civica Di Saluzzo, and headed back down (thankfully).
I wanted to see the Museo Civico Casa Cavassa, the residence of Galeazzo Cavassa (whose tomb we had just seen) and his son Francesco. It looked like an interesting place. Unfortunately when we got back down, I checked our map and sadly realized it was located near to where we had been at the top of town. That’s when the four of us decided a bite to eat might be a better choice.
We were quickly back on the road to visit a castle located only four kilometers from Saluzzo, Castello della Manta. It is here where I made another directional error (I was on a roll).
As we made our way to the castle we saw a sign for parking. It looked like we’d be the only ones visiting Castello della Manta because we were the only car parked here. Being Piemonte, there was the obligatory 10-15 minute walk up a steep path to the castle. When we reached the top, lo and hold there was another parking lot adjacent to the castle. At least my Fitbit was happy.
Constructed between the 13th and 15th centuries, Castello della Manta “gradually became a medieval stronghold in a mansion.” We paid our €8 (no senior discount, even for morons who parked in the wrong place) and entered.
Because we hadn’t climbed enough, we went up two floors to the main kitchen with a large barrel-vaulted ceiling and huge fireplace where, for once, neither of us stood.
We then entered the vestibule that contains a painted and coffered 15th-century ceiling.
It also had a 15th-century painting depicting the Virgin suckling the Child.
We the entered the coolest room in the castle. The Baronale Hall displays a dazzling cycle of frescoes that completely cover the walls.
According to literature, the frescoes are “a rare testimony of late-gothic profane painting in northern Italy.”
Nobody knows who actually painted these 15th-century frescoes, so they are attributed to the “Maestro della Manta.”
Some of the frescoes include The Nine Worthies and the Nine Worthy Women. Verses in old French are at the bottom of these frescoes that recount their deeds in history. I probably should have studied harder in high school French class.
A couple of the Worthies include Alexander The Great and Julius Caesar, while the Worthy Women are all taken from mythology, including Penthesilia, one of the Queens of the Amazons. She was killed by that heel Achilles. I don’t know which one is Pentheselia.
On the wall opposite the fireplace is a fresco of the Crucifixion with Saints John The Baptist and Saint Quentin.
Opposite the wall with all those worthy folks is The Fountain of Youth.
I wished with my aching feet I could have jumped in with them.
This fresco depicts the procession of the new young people
after the bath in the fountain of youth. I was not among them.
We walked through the Tree Room, which I am pretty positive is not its real name.
Next on the tour was the Sala Matilda Orsiri and the Camera da letto di Michele Antonio di Sallustio della Manta.
Unfortunately I walked into the trophy room, and after seeing this poor guy, I left.
There was a lovely corridor on the way to our last room, but it the lighting was too weird to take a photo. Of course, that is why the internet was invented (photo below).
Finally, it was time to visit the Hall of Grotesques, which takes its name from the decorative motifs.
The room is “decorated by allegorical figures and mythological scenes, an important testimony of Manneristic culture in the Saluzzese.”
The large central panel of the ceiling depicts the flaming chariot of the prophet Elijah.
The views from inside this castle were pretty nice, too.
All the staircases had a unique flair to them, and as I always do when I leave these places, I said “Good Knight” to our host.
Before leaving the castle, we headed down to the wine cellar, but since there was no tasting, we walked to another building on the property.
Near the castle is the La Chiesa Di Santa Maria Al Castello, which had recently been restored.
It dates from the 15th century.
We walked back to the car, and “miracoli” it was still the only one there.
On our drive back to La Morra, we had one more town to visit. The town is dominated by the 14th-century brick Castle of the Acaja family. Thanks to some nice and knowledgeable locals, they told us that we had parked in an illegal space. Fortunately there was a free parking lot situated less than 1/2 block from where I had almost got us ticketed.
Walking into town we passed by a large bronze sculpture called the Monumentom al cadre (Monument To The Fallen). It remembers the Fallen of Fossano in the First and Second World Wars.
In the distance were two cannons.
We also walked by a temporary display (ends on January 13) of a catapult designed by Leonardo da Vinci. “The Leonardesque catapult of Fossano is a special object because it does not want to be an instrument of offense, but defense” … sort of like the Baltimore Ravens.
The Cattedrale di Santa Maria e San Giovanale opened at 3 p.m., and since we were a few minutes early we wandered around town. Had the day not been so hazy, the panoramic views from a nearby terrace might have been spectacular. Instead we toured the town and took a few photos until the church opened a little before 3.
Fossano’s cathedral is dedicated to Santa Maria and San Giovenale. Constructed in last decades of the 18th century, it contains ten chapels.
Many famous Italian painters of the time added artwork.
Back outside, we headed toward the gigantic Castello degli Acaja.
This castle was a “defensive castle by Prince Filippo d'Acaia became a noble residence under the Savoy domination.” It’s also been a prison and it was utilized as a barracks, stable and warehouses for the army during World War II.
We could have climbed all the way to the top for incredible views, but once again that darned haze made a climb futile, so it was time to drive back to our home base.
In La Morra, we visited Parrocchia Di San Martino, a church dedicated to La Morra’s patron saint San Martino.
This church provided us with another surprise with its luscious interior.
It “houses precious artistic testimonies, altarpiece, frescoes and sacred furnishings,” including Cannelli Giovanni Carlo Alberti’s masterpiece the Madonna With Child with Saint Martino and Saint Crispino, while the dome depicts the Triumph of St. Martino.
Once again …
… a lot more time was spent here than we had first anticipated.
We had strayed a little ahead of Kim and Mary, since they had ducked into an art gallery. Tracy and I checked out a new panoramic terrace being constructed that will be open to the public next year and then headed back to Rocche Costamagna to get ready for our last terrace soirée.
Meanwhile, since the weather in La Morra was better than the haze of Fossano, Kim and Mary decided to climb the 94 or so steps up the Torre Campanaria di La Morra.
And they have the photos to prove it.
The tower, located in the belvedere square, stands at a little more than 100 feet and the views were excellent. I thanked them for taking one for my legs.
At the bewitching hour of 6:15, the six of us met on our terrace for our last round of vino, formaggio and prosciutto. Greg and Gloria had enjoyed their day of wine tasting, so why not partake in a little more.
The sky decided to save the best for last, with a red hue making the skyline pop as we savored the moment.
As I’ve said, Rocche Costamagne might be the best b&b we have ever stayed (along with Les Jardins de Loïs in Beaune and the spot we would hit in a few days in Orta San Giulio). Great hosts, wonderful ambiance and views second to none made this a perfect lodging experience.
We had an 8 p.m. reservation at a restaurant that I had booked months in advance to ensure we’d spend our last night here. It turned out to be the best restaurant of the trip and it was awarded Mai Tai Tom’s International Restaurant of 2018 (someday they will be proud of this award). It also served the most incredible pasta dish I have ever tasted, and I would go back to Piemonte just to have it again.
Unfortunately, since this chapter has gone on so long, I will have to wait until tomorrow to write about this incredible restaurant.
Next (finally): International Restaurant Of The Year, Could I Get Someone To Help Me Hoist This Wine List?, 40 Red Eggs, This Is Rich, Need A Lift and A Very Generous Umbrella Policy
Jan 14th, 2019, 11:29 AM
#175
Original Poster
It was time for dinner on our last night in La Morra, Italy, and we got our money’s worth at my 2018 International Restaurant Of The Year. If I could only be served one dish in life, I believe it would be the pasta made with 40 red eggs at Bovio. A great dinner served in a wonderful spot with a delightful staff made for quite a memorable evening. Here’s the story of a terrific night of dining. (story with photos ... click the link ... without photos below my favorite dish ... ever!!!
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...t-of-the-year/
Long before we left for Italy and knowing we would be there at the beginning of White Truffle Season, I decided we should end our four days dining at a very special restaurant. Of course, never having been to Piemonte, what should that restaurant be? After researching site upon site, I came to the conclusion there was only one choice … Bovio in La Morra.
To make sure we secured reservations, I made reservations seven months in advance. Yes, you read that that correctly … seven months! Some things you don’t leave to chance.
So, on our final evening in picturesque La Morra, the six of us walked down the hill from Rocche Costamagna to Bovio (it was under half a mile on a steep and winding road, however we did not want a repeat of the first evening when one of us rode laying down in the hatchback on the way to and from dinner.)
Bovio is nestled in the vineyards just below La Morra with magnificent views over the Langhe countryside, but since it was already dark we were only afforded views of the lights of the valley below. That was fairly spectacular in itself. I had requested a terrace table, but on this night the weather proved to be uncooperative with reports of a rain storm headed our way (photos of Bovio’s exterior are from the next morning as we drove out of town).
Arriving a little before 8 p.m. for our reservation, it appeared we were among the first to arrive (our usual MO). We were seated at a table in the well-appointed main dining area where I welcomed our guests to the table in my usual subtle manner.
I had read that the Bovio family (“one of the oldest families of restaurateurs in Piemonte) had previously owned another restaurant for 40 years ( Ristorante Belvedere), but had desired a more “intimate locale,” so they chose this panoramic spot in La Morra.
Glen Bovio and daughter Alessandra run the dining room (check out this sweet view courtesy of the Bovio website)
A huge wine list was delivered to our table, larger than any I had ever seen. As it turned out it was the War and Peace of wine lists, bigger than any book I read in college. In fact, the restaurant has more than “1,000 local and national labels,” with 1,000s of bottles in its cellar. Knowing we didn’t have time to drink them all, Tracy and Mary opted for a bottle of prosecco, while the rest of us shared a bottle of Nebbiolo and a Barbera. We might have ordered another later.
The dinner menu had a number of delicious sounding choices .. and on this evening Bovio also provided a much more expensive White Truffle menu, which we passed on (initially). As we perused the menu, looking up we noticed the restaurant was now completely full.
Dinner is served:
To start Kim and I started with the Gnocchi di patate rosse al Castelmagno; Potato gnocchi with Castelmagno cheese (€15). While Kim found it rich, I found it perfect for my pasta palate. I savored every single bite.
For their first course, Tracy and Gloria shared a delicious Terrina di fegato grasso di anatra ai fichi, marmellata di cipolle rosse e zenzero; Duck foie gras terrine with figs, red onion jam and ginger (€16).
Mary’s appetizer of Fettucine, squid, red shrimp and mullet was also delicious.
Suddenly, fate stepped in, well, actually fate stepped to an adjacent table.
A cart carrying a small platter of white gold (aka tartufo Bianca di Alba) entered the dining room. It was too much for me. As Worf stated in Star Trek: “Resistance is futile!”
We had been on a truffle hunt a few days before, yet no one at our table ordered white truffles. However, when the cart bearing fragrant white truffles was wheeled to the table next to us, the allure of the truffle was too much. I had been seduced and no one could stop me.
We (I) discussed with our waiter which white truffle dish from their special truffle menu would be best to be shared amongst our table and he recommended the tagliolini ai 40 tuorli con tartufo bianco (thin noodles home made with 40 red eggs and topped with shaved white truffles (€ 35,00 each). In a moment of ecstasy (or perhaps the inception of slight intoxication), I said I would pay for them. (Tracy quickly pulled the divorce papers from her purse.)
Fortunately, I believe the restaurant made our pasta portions a little smaller, and the bill wasn’t as much as it could have been (plus the others shared … willingly, I think).
In any event, soon, sitting in front of us, with white truffle scent wafting into my inner soul, it arrived … the greatest pasta dish I have ever tasted in my life. To say I savored each and every bite would be an understatement of gigantic proportions. It’s hard to describe how incredibly delicious did this was, and at this moment I want to thank those hens for all the red eggs they provided. I wished I could thank them individually for their efforts.
That was definitely a “Wow” dish and certainly ranks at the top of the many incredible pastas we consumed on this trip. The waiter explained that the pasta is made with 40 red eggs and farina flour. The pasta was silky and delectable and perfectly complemented the white truffles shaved on top. The presentation of the white truffles was pretty spectacular too. They are wheeled out on a cart and one person (who I believe might be Alessandra, one of the Bovio family owners) shaves white truffles over your pasta.
When I finished, my joy was tempered by the sadness the pasta dish was now history. Tagliolini Tom, my name for but a few moments, will most certainly return.
I very much enjoyed my Il classico brasato di manzo fassone Piemontese al Barolo; typical braised beef in Barolo wine sauce
(€18), but I still yearned for more pasta.
Kim decided upon the Tagliata di vitella, scaglie di parmigiamo, riduzione al Barbera e tortino di patate; Veal with Parmesan cheese, Barbera wine reduction and potato tart (€20).
For their supper, Tracy and Gloria went for more pasta, Cannelloni di anatra e spinaci, il suo fondo e tartufo nero; Cannelloni with duck, spinach and black truffles (€16). It, too, earned a resounding “Wow!”
Mary dined on a terrific Baccalà su passatina di topinambur, battuto di olive, capperi e pomodori secchi; Cod, Jerusalem artichoke cream with olives, capers and dried tomatoes (€20).
Sadly, we were too full to order dessert, however in what must be an Italian custom (and a wonderful custom it is) to keep patrons eating delicious food, our waiter brought out several plates of small cookies, chocolate truffles and bonbons which we somehow managed to devour.
Finally satiated, we paid the bill (our entire meal including the white truffle special and wine came to €128 a couple), bid everyone “Buonanotte” and walked outside, into a fairly sizable rain event! Discretion being the better part of being soaked, Greg, Gloria, Tracy and I ducked back inside to decide what to do while Kim and Mary decided to make a run for it (well, as fast as you can run up a steep hill). We decided to follow in their footsteps, and make the trek up the hill to walk off our dinner. Besides, what’s a little rain after a perfect evening like this?
As we started our walk, our server hurried out after us and offered to drive us to our B&B! There’s something that doesn’t happen in the U.S.
We politely declined, and then he insisted on getting us four umbrellas and said that we did not even have to return them. Wow! What service … above and beyond is an understatement! The four of us strolled back up the hill, twirling our umbrellas while humming Singing In the Rain as the heavy drizzle poured down on us actually making for a delightful end to our spectacular evening. Not being umbrella thieves, we dropped them off the next morning as we drove out of town.
In Europe, or just life in general, there are those magic moments that one loves to relive. Our night at Bovio was certainly one of those. Many thanks to the staff and the Bovio family for providing an experience we will never forget. Congratulations on receiving the soon to be coveted (hopefully in my lifetime), Mai Tai Tom’s International Restaurant of the Year!
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...t-of-the-year/
Long before we left for Italy and knowing we would be there at the beginning of White Truffle Season, I decided we should end our four days dining at a very special restaurant. Of course, never having been to Piemonte, what should that restaurant be? After researching site upon site, I came to the conclusion there was only one choice … Bovio in La Morra.
To make sure we secured reservations, I made reservations seven months in advance. Yes, you read that that correctly … seven months! Some things you don’t leave to chance.
So, on our final evening in picturesque La Morra, the six of us walked down the hill from Rocche Costamagna to Bovio (it was under half a mile on a steep and winding road, however we did not want a repeat of the first evening when one of us rode laying down in the hatchback on the way to and from dinner.)
Bovio is nestled in the vineyards just below La Morra with magnificent views over the Langhe countryside, but since it was already dark we were only afforded views of the lights of the valley below. That was fairly spectacular in itself. I had requested a terrace table, but on this night the weather proved to be uncooperative with reports of a rain storm headed our way (photos of Bovio’s exterior are from the next morning as we drove out of town).
Arriving a little before 8 p.m. for our reservation, it appeared we were among the first to arrive (our usual MO). We were seated at a table in the well-appointed main dining area where I welcomed our guests to the table in my usual subtle manner.
I had read that the Bovio family (“one of the oldest families of restaurateurs in Piemonte) had previously owned another restaurant for 40 years ( Ristorante Belvedere), but had desired a more “intimate locale,” so they chose this panoramic spot in La Morra.
Glen Bovio and daughter Alessandra run the dining room (check out this sweet view courtesy of the Bovio website)
A huge wine list was delivered to our table, larger than any I had ever seen. As it turned out it was the War and Peace of wine lists, bigger than any book I read in college. In fact, the restaurant has more than “1,000 local and national labels,” with 1,000s of bottles in its cellar. Knowing we didn’t have time to drink them all, Tracy and Mary opted for a bottle of prosecco, while the rest of us shared a bottle of Nebbiolo and a Barbera. We might have ordered another later.
The dinner menu had a number of delicious sounding choices .. and on this evening Bovio also provided a much more expensive White Truffle menu, which we passed on (initially). As we perused the menu, looking up we noticed the restaurant was now completely full.
Dinner is served:
To start Kim and I started with the Gnocchi di patate rosse al Castelmagno; Potato gnocchi with Castelmagno cheese (€15). While Kim found it rich, I found it perfect for my pasta palate. I savored every single bite.
For their first course, Tracy and Gloria shared a delicious Terrina di fegato grasso di anatra ai fichi, marmellata di cipolle rosse e zenzero; Duck foie gras terrine with figs, red onion jam and ginger (€16).
Mary’s appetizer of Fettucine, squid, red shrimp and mullet was also delicious.
Suddenly, fate stepped in, well, actually fate stepped to an adjacent table.
A cart carrying a small platter of white gold (aka tartufo Bianca di Alba) entered the dining room. It was too much for me. As Worf stated in Star Trek: “Resistance is futile!”
We had been on a truffle hunt a few days before, yet no one at our table ordered white truffles. However, when the cart bearing fragrant white truffles was wheeled to the table next to us, the allure of the truffle was too much. I had been seduced and no one could stop me.
We (I) discussed with our waiter which white truffle dish from their special truffle menu would be best to be shared amongst our table and he recommended the tagliolini ai 40 tuorli con tartufo bianco (thin noodles home made with 40 red eggs and topped with shaved white truffles (€ 35,00 each). In a moment of ecstasy (or perhaps the inception of slight intoxication), I said I would pay for them. (Tracy quickly pulled the divorce papers from her purse.)
Fortunately, I believe the restaurant made our pasta portions a little smaller, and the bill wasn’t as much as it could have been (plus the others shared … willingly, I think).
In any event, soon, sitting in front of us, with white truffle scent wafting into my inner soul, it arrived … the greatest pasta dish I have ever tasted in my life. To say I savored each and every bite would be an understatement of gigantic proportions. It’s hard to describe how incredibly delicious did this was, and at this moment I want to thank those hens for all the red eggs they provided. I wished I could thank them individually for their efforts.
That was definitely a “Wow” dish and certainly ranks at the top of the many incredible pastas we consumed on this trip. The waiter explained that the pasta is made with 40 red eggs and farina flour. The pasta was silky and delectable and perfectly complemented the white truffles shaved on top. The presentation of the white truffles was pretty spectacular too. They are wheeled out on a cart and one person (who I believe might be Alessandra, one of the Bovio family owners) shaves white truffles over your pasta.
When I finished, my joy was tempered by the sadness the pasta dish was now history. Tagliolini Tom, my name for but a few moments, will most certainly return.
I very much enjoyed my Il classico brasato di manzo fassone Piemontese al Barolo; typical braised beef in Barolo wine sauce
(€18), but I still yearned for more pasta.
Kim decided upon the Tagliata di vitella, scaglie di parmigiamo, riduzione al Barbera e tortino di patate; Veal with Parmesan cheese, Barbera wine reduction and potato tart (€20).
For their supper, Tracy and Gloria went for more pasta, Cannelloni di anatra e spinaci, il suo fondo e tartufo nero; Cannelloni with duck, spinach and black truffles (€16). It, too, earned a resounding “Wow!”
Mary dined on a terrific Baccalà su passatina di topinambur, battuto di olive, capperi e pomodori secchi; Cod, Jerusalem artichoke cream with olives, capers and dried tomatoes (€20).
Sadly, we were too full to order dessert, however in what must be an Italian custom (and a wonderful custom it is) to keep patrons eating delicious food, our waiter brought out several plates of small cookies, chocolate truffles and bonbons which we somehow managed to devour.
Finally satiated, we paid the bill (our entire meal including the white truffle special and wine came to €128 a couple), bid everyone “Buonanotte” and walked outside, into a fairly sizable rain event! Discretion being the better part of being soaked, Greg, Gloria, Tracy and I ducked back inside to decide what to do while Kim and Mary decided to make a run for it (well, as fast as you can run up a steep hill). We decided to follow in their footsteps, and make the trek up the hill to walk off our dinner. Besides, what’s a little rain after a perfect evening like this?
As we started our walk, our server hurried out after us and offered to drive us to our B&B! There’s something that doesn’t happen in the U.S.
We politely declined, and then he insisted on getting us four umbrellas and said that we did not even have to return them. Wow! What service … above and beyond is an understatement! The four of us strolled back up the hill, twirling our umbrellas while humming Singing In the Rain as the heavy drizzle poured down on us actually making for a delightful end to our spectacular evening. Not being umbrella thieves, we dropped them off the next morning as we drove out of town.
In Europe, or just life in general, there are those magic moments that one loves to relive. Our night at Bovio was certainly one of those. Many thanks to the staff and the Bovio family for providing an experience we will never forget. Congratulations on receiving the soon to be coveted (hopefully in my lifetime), Mai Tai Tom’s International Restaurant of the Year!
Jan 15th, 2019, 10:41 AM
#177
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In another thread, knoxvillecouple said your trip reports are the gold standard. I completely agree with that statement and I would add that your trip planning and execution are also the gold standard (at least for the way we like to travel). What an incredible trip you had. Not sure I have the stamina do this trip but I now want to go back to see lots of the places you went to that we did not. Kudos to everyone in your group.
Last edited by john183; Jan 15th, 2019 at 11:06 AM.
Jan 15th, 2019, 10:59 AM
#178
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Thanks td and John for the nice comments. We still had to have the stamina for three nights in Turin (working on that now ... Kim and Tracy got some great shots) and a couple of nights at a remarkable b&b in Orta San Giulio to end the trip. There's a museum in Turin I want to go back and see more of one day. John, I know what you mean about stamina. We're exploring the possibility of Portugal later this year, but those hills in Lisbon and Porto have me wondering if my old knees can take it. Maybe we'll just return to La Morra or Alba and drink vino and eat white truffle pasta in Piemonte. Now back to writing about Torino!
Jan 15th, 2019, 02:22 PM
#180
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Great report, Tom!
We found that chapel in Milan with the frescoes last June almost by accident. The volunteer guide told our kids (age 5 and 7) to look at the Noah's ark fresco for the one animal that appeared 3 times. Kept them busy so we could admire the chapel! Turns out that dogs make an appearance 3 times in that fresco - all other animals appear in pairs as expected. The dog was the symbol of the artist and appears elsewhere in the chapel as well. Or so we were told!
We found that chapel in Milan with the frescoes last June almost by accident. The volunteer guide told our kids (age 5 and 7) to look at the Noah's ark fresco for the one animal that appeared 3 times. Kept them busy so we could admire the chapel! Turns out that dogs make an appearance 3 times in that fresco - all other animals appear in pairs as expected. The dog was the symbol of the artist and appears elsewhere in the chapel as well. Or so we were told!
