We Still Didn’t Drink All The Vino: Mai Tai Tom’s 2018 Return To Italy
Feb 5th, 2019, 02:55 PM
#201
Original Poster
Yes, the saga is finally nearing its end. But first we had another day in Turin, and we’d head out a few miles to a cool cog railway to make our slow journey up a large hill to the Torino landmark of Basilica di Superga. Our stupid tour director (aka me) made a mistake in timing that would turn out to create a series of events that eventually led us to get to do something that very few people are allowed to do. Sometimes it’s better to be lucky than good. After this, a couple of days in Orta San Giulio and you'll be rid of me 
Story with photos in the link posted below (including the story how we got some unexpected ones). No pics version below photo.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...-the-basilica/
CHAPTER SEVENTEEN - THE SURPRISE AT THE BASILICA
DAY SIXTEEN - Get Me To The Tram On Time, Missed It By That Much, Going Superga-ga, “Are You OK Sir?”, Social Climber, Among The Tombs, Unexpected Private Tour, Somber Reminder, Directionally Challenged, Economically Challenged, You Can Never Have Enough Shrouds, Taking Sanctuary, The Magic Taxi and Our Final Fantastic Turin Dinner
Sometimes the tour leader screws up. Today would be one of those days, although the screw-up eventually led to an unexpected surprise. Clean living, I guess.
Once again, we met for breakfast in the lovely Il Gioiellino dining room. Our plan for the day was to travel about four miles and visit a famed basilica. Unfortunately, I came under the spell of Federika’s delicious cappuccinos, and when I looked at the time, I knew we might not make the 10 a.m. tram up.
We bade farewell, and although our taxi driver wound through the streets of Torino like something out of The Italian Job (thankfully he didn’t drive down any steps), we arrived at the Sassi-Superga Cog Train station about 10:05. As they say, “That train had left the station.”
Not to worry, I thought. “They run every 15 minutes,” I told the crew. As 15 minutes went by, there was no tram. Taking a quick look at my notes (something I should have done while sipping my caffeine at the B&B), the tram takes about 18 minutes to get up to Basilica di Superga … they only run on the hour.
This got me to worrying that we might not have much time since the literature I read said the basilica closed for a couple of hours around noon. As the others sipped even more caffeine, I paced and wondered if senility had finally crept in.
The Sassi-Superga Rack Railway climbs more than 1,300 feet. In 1934 it was converted from a train hauled by steel cables to a central traction rack railway, which has been restored and renovated throughout the years.
Finally, at 11 a.m., we hopped on this little narrow-gauge railway and the tram huffed and puffed up the hill to the basilica. Speaking of huffing and puffing, deposited at the station on the hill, it was still a fairly steep walk to the basilica. Senility was now replaced by just plain old age.
While I’m resting from just thinking about that walk, here’s Basilica di Superga’s history in a nutshell: “Turin, 1706. The town is invaded by the French army of Louis XIV. The Piedmont’s troops and the Austrian allied troops are in trouble. The Duke Vittorio Amedeo II and the Prince Eugenio of Savoia-Soisson, leaders of the local army, climb the top of the Superga’s hill in order to observe from an elevated point of view the battlefield. In a small church, located on the top of the hill, the Duke kneeled in front of a Virgin Mary’s wooden sculpture and made a vow: in case of victory he would have built a bigger church in honor of the Virgin. After a hard battle the enemy army was defeated and the town was free. Vittorio Amedeo kept his vow, assigning the construction of the Sanctuary to Court’s Architect Filippo Juvarra. The preexisting church was demolished and the hill was lowed of approximately forty meters in order to built the complex. In 1717 the Sanctuary’s first stone was put down, and the inauguration took place fourteen years later in 1731.”
We walked inside, and darned if I still wasn’t winded by that climb. As I approached the altar, I must have made an “old-man sound,” because a young Italian guy came up to me and said, “Sir, are you feeling alright?” I have to get in better shape for Portugal next year.
The basilica includes six chapels, four altars and a main altar, while many of the sculptures and monuments are carved out of Carrara marble.
While we scoped those out, Kim was once again drawn to a dome.
It was at this moment I heard words to cause dread. “Would you like to climb up the staircase to the balcony? There are great views.” I could not turn down the challenge, even as Tracy was perusing our living trust.
At the ticket office, they said we had about a half hour to climb the steps and get back in time for a tour I really wanted to take. “Let’s do it!” I replied enthusiastically. There are 131 steps that wind up a narrow, spiral deathtrap (it really wasn’t that hard). I had paid €3, and damnit I was going to climb it, which I eventually did.
The views of Turin were pretty good on a hazy day.
The architecture was also interesting to see from this vantage point. Th bell tower has eight Corinthian columns.
I carefully walked down the staircase, hoping not to scrape all the skin off my blood-thinner arms, but thankfully Sir Bleed-A-Lot made it unscathed to the bottom.
What I was most interested in seeing at Basilica di Superga was the tour of the The Hall Of Popes, The Royal Tombs, the Chapel of The Infants and the Chapel of The Queens.
We met our guide, and although the entire tour was in Italian, he would come over and whisper in English some of the highlights along the way. We could take photos in the Hall of Popes, but when we descended to the other part of the tour, photos were strictly forbidden (foreshadowing alert).
The Hall of Popes contains 266 paintings portraying all the popes.
Yep, there’s Francesco with a few of this predecessors.
As we descended to the Royal tombs we were greeted by a white Carrara marble sculpture of St. Michael Archangel whipping Lucifer’s butt.
It was a great tour underneath the basilica (about 45 minutes), but we were disappointed we couldn’t take pictures. Our guide was very helpful to point out the greatest hits of the tombs in English.
Back above ground, we were about to walk around the exterior of the basilica, when I got an idea (yes, it sometimes happens). My website had helped us secure tickets to The Last Supper … perhaps if I explained I was a writer (well, I guess you're the judge of that) they would at least send me some photos from The Royal Tombs et al).
I asked the nice lady at the desk if that would be possible. A few of them huddled and conferred (like the referees should have done in the Rams/Saints game). The woman at the desk returned and said, “Yes, it will be fine for you all to go back and take photos.” Wow, I had just wanted them to send me some.
So back down to the tombs the four of us went, led by our trusty tour guide. “How cool is this?” I thought.
We paid our respects to Michael one more time. I thought I heard him ay, “Didn’t I just see you guys?”
It was off to revisit the Royal Tombs. Vittorio Amedeo III had the vision to build a place where his ancestors and descendants could lay in rest. Currently, there are 61 members of the House of Savoy buried here.
In no particular order we saw the tomb of Vittorio Emanuele I, the Duke of Savoy and King of Sardinia in the early 19th century. At the foot of this monument is the tomb of Vittorio’s wife Queen Maria Theresa.
To his left is the tomb of Victor Amadeus III of Sardinia, Vittorio’s father. His wife Queen Maria Antonia Ferdinanda is in the tomb below.
The incredible large tomb of Carlo Alberto I, who served as the King of Sardinia from 1831-1849, is prominently displayed in the center of the crypt. Carlo attempted to unify Italy until the time of his death in 1849. There are four statues (two seen here) that surround his tomb. They represent Faith, Hope, Charity and the Genius of Fine Arts.
In the Chapel of the Queens, we find the tomb of King Charles Emanuel III of Sardinia, designed in the mid 1780s. There is an allegorical figure (the guy with wings and a helmet) called “Military Genius.”
There is a moment to Maria Teresa of Toscana, the wife of King Carlo Alberto.
Also in the Chapel of the Queens is the funeral monument to Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo della Cisterna (I think she wins for longest name, too), the wife of Amedeo Ferdinando, the King of Spain. Maria was of great help to the poorest women in Spain, and when she died they sent two handmade silk rose crowns, which she holds in her hands.
The Chapel of the Infants houses the remains of 14 children and nine adults.
It was quite a time experiencing this area with just the five of us. We left a nice donation for their efforts in allowing us to return to take photos.
Back outside we looked up at the bell tower …
… and then walked to the back of the church where another memorial stands. This one to an ill-fated soccer team. In May of 1949, the Grande Torino football team’s airplane, on a return trip from a game in Lisbon, Portugal, crashed into the embankment of the Superga. In all, 31 people perished in the accident.
Since then, Superga hill has been a pilgrimage spot for people to come honor the team that won five consecutive Premiere Leagues and one Italian Cup.
Photos of the team and scarves mark the spot. Each year, on the anniversary of the tragedy, “thousands of fans climb up the hill to remember the team.”
It was a gorgeous day, so we took one last look at this marvelous building.
We walked back down to the Superga station and waited for the next tram.
Eighteen minutes down and it was time to return to Turin, since there were no restaurants of interest in the area.
As we soon found out, there were no taxis either. We decided we would take a tram back to town. Nearby were two stops for the tram, one going to the right … the other to the left. Mary, Tracy and I asked which tram we should take, and the guy pointed to the left. So, of course, when Kim asked which one we should take, Mary said the one that was headed to the right. Why, I don’t know.
We told Kim that the guy pointed to the left, and he said (and may I emphasize Kim said this), “Never in doubt, seldom right.” Yes, they are still married. So at the tram stop headed to the right, Mary and I asked a construction worker which tram would take us back to Turin. He answered, “The one across the street going left.” By that time, Kim and Tracy were already waiting at that stop.
On the tram, we faced another dilemma … how do we pay? There was a machine for depositing coins, but we had no idea how much. Since no one spoke English, and our Italian is about as good as any of our other foreign langue skills, I didn’t have a clue what to do (something that should be inscribed on my tombstone).
Then one of us (I don’t remember who) said, “I think I read that transportation is covered in the Torino+Piemonte Card.” That sounded like a good answer, so we exited at the station near the Piazza Reale. Because we had donated money at the basilica, I didn’t feel too guilty, and since we were not struck by a bolt of lightning, we went in search of a restaurant after Kim and Mary bought some soccer gifts for their grandchildren.
By now it was after 2:30 and since we had early dinner reservations, we all decided to eschew lunch and check out a couple of more Turin sights. When in Turin, it’s always “Shroud Time,” so we headed over to Museo della Sindone (Holy Shroud Museum).
There is an interesting 15-minute film to open, but Tracy and I only found the museum mildly interesting (I think Kim and Mary liked it more), including this piece that held the shroud until about 20 years ago.
I was very interested in visiting the adjacent Santo Sudario, which was a private area where the Dukes of Savoy worshipped and where a copy of the shroud is displayed over a “gilded altar.” It was closed for renovation.
But there was still one more place of worship (I’ve got to count these up) nearby that looked interesting on paper … Santuario Basilica La Consolata. It was constructed in the 11th century and underwent a series of renovations in the 1700s.
A Romanesque campanile still stands.
We had really looked forward to seeing the Chapel Of The Grazie, but a funeral was taking place so we had to see it from afar. It looked beautiful.
Highlights included The Chapel Of St. Andrea incorporating an ancient altar …
… and, once again not surprisingly, a colorful ceiling.
We checked out The Small Choir Of The Two Queens (of the Savoy House) … Queen Maria Teresa (Carlo Alberto’s wife) and Maria Adelaide (wife of King Vittorio Emanuele II) who died at the young age of 33 after enduring some tough pregnancies.
True to its name, The Major Sacristy And The Corridor Of The Crucifix contains a crucifix from the late 17th century.
I think by now we had run out of churches …
… so after a few more minutes we returned to our B&B to pack for the next day’s journey.
Returning to Osteria La Capannina for dinner, we saw that our waiter from the first night was serving as maitre D. It seems Jerry Orbach got the night off. We were seated in the covered patio area, which was good because there was a heavy mist.
Once again dinner was good (but not quite as spot on as the first night) and included my risotto with artichokes and gnocchi in cream sauce. I was now a full-fledged pasta consumer.
We’d hit the road tomorrow for our final destination. On the way we’d utilize that Torino+Piemente card one last time at another Savoy Royal palace.
In about 90 minutes after that, we’d reach one of the most beautiful spots we have ever stayed. Orta San Giulio is gorgeous, and the location of our B&B couldn’t have been more perfect.
After arriving and eating a quick lunch along the lake we’d hike up (with the emphasis once again on “up”) to a UNESCO sight. Three out of four of us would make it all the way up the hill, but we’d all get together later for a late happy hour with another million dollar view.
Next: DAY SEVENTEEN - Where's The Palace?, Veneria Disease, Quite A Hall, Going To The Chapel, Le Notre Gardens, What A View, Tracy Wipes Out, Chivalry Is Officially Dead, Ascending The Summit, Calling It A Day, Corkscrewed, Wine Shop To The Rescue, Going To A Garden Party and I Might Have Screwed Up … Again!
Story with photos in the link posted below (including the story how we got some unexpected ones). No pics version below photo.https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...-the-basilica/
CHAPTER SEVENTEEN - THE SURPRISE AT THE BASILICA
DAY SIXTEEN - Get Me To The Tram On Time, Missed It By That Much, Going Superga-ga, “Are You OK Sir?”, Social Climber, Among The Tombs, Unexpected Private Tour, Somber Reminder, Directionally Challenged, Economically Challenged, You Can Never Have Enough Shrouds, Taking Sanctuary, The Magic Taxi and Our Final Fantastic Turin Dinner
Sometimes the tour leader screws up. Today would be one of those days, although the screw-up eventually led to an unexpected surprise. Clean living, I guess.
Once again, we met for breakfast in the lovely Il Gioiellino dining room. Our plan for the day was to travel about four miles and visit a famed basilica. Unfortunately, I came under the spell of Federika’s delicious cappuccinos, and when I looked at the time, I knew we might not make the 10 a.m. tram up.
We bade farewell, and although our taxi driver wound through the streets of Torino like something out of The Italian Job (thankfully he didn’t drive down any steps), we arrived at the Sassi-Superga Cog Train station about 10:05. As they say, “That train had left the station.”
Not to worry, I thought. “They run every 15 minutes,” I told the crew. As 15 minutes went by, there was no tram. Taking a quick look at my notes (something I should have done while sipping my caffeine at the B&B), the tram takes about 18 minutes to get up to Basilica di Superga … they only run on the hour.
This got me to worrying that we might not have much time since the literature I read said the basilica closed for a couple of hours around noon. As the others sipped even more caffeine, I paced and wondered if senility had finally crept in.
The Sassi-Superga Rack Railway climbs more than 1,300 feet. In 1934 it was converted from a train hauled by steel cables to a central traction rack railway, which has been restored and renovated throughout the years.
Finally, at 11 a.m., we hopped on this little narrow-gauge railway and the tram huffed and puffed up the hill to the basilica. Speaking of huffing and puffing, deposited at the station on the hill, it was still a fairly steep walk to the basilica. Senility was now replaced by just plain old age.
While I’m resting from just thinking about that walk, here’s Basilica di Superga’s history in a nutshell: “Turin, 1706. The town is invaded by the French army of Louis XIV. The Piedmont’s troops and the Austrian allied troops are in trouble. The Duke Vittorio Amedeo II and the Prince Eugenio of Savoia-Soisson, leaders of the local army, climb the top of the Superga’s hill in order to observe from an elevated point of view the battlefield. In a small church, located on the top of the hill, the Duke kneeled in front of a Virgin Mary’s wooden sculpture and made a vow: in case of victory he would have built a bigger church in honor of the Virgin. After a hard battle the enemy army was defeated and the town was free. Vittorio Amedeo kept his vow, assigning the construction of the Sanctuary to Court’s Architect Filippo Juvarra. The preexisting church was demolished and the hill was lowed of approximately forty meters in order to built the complex. In 1717 the Sanctuary’s first stone was put down, and the inauguration took place fourteen years later in 1731.”
We walked inside, and darned if I still wasn’t winded by that climb. As I approached the altar, I must have made an “old-man sound,” because a young Italian guy came up to me and said, “Sir, are you feeling alright?” I have to get in better shape for Portugal next year.
The basilica includes six chapels, four altars and a main altar, while many of the sculptures and monuments are carved out of Carrara marble.
While we scoped those out, Kim was once again drawn to a dome.
It was at this moment I heard words to cause dread. “Would you like to climb up the staircase to the balcony? There are great views.” I could not turn down the challenge, even as Tracy was perusing our living trust.
At the ticket office, they said we had about a half hour to climb the steps and get back in time for a tour I really wanted to take. “Let’s do it!” I replied enthusiastically. There are 131 steps that wind up a narrow, spiral deathtrap (it really wasn’t that hard). I had paid €3, and damnit I was going to climb it, which I eventually did.
The views of Turin were pretty good on a hazy day.
The architecture was also interesting to see from this vantage point. Th bell tower has eight Corinthian columns.
I carefully walked down the staircase, hoping not to scrape all the skin off my blood-thinner arms, but thankfully Sir Bleed-A-Lot made it unscathed to the bottom.
What I was most interested in seeing at Basilica di Superga was the tour of the The Hall Of Popes, The Royal Tombs, the Chapel of The Infants and the Chapel of The Queens.
We met our guide, and although the entire tour was in Italian, he would come over and whisper in English some of the highlights along the way. We could take photos in the Hall of Popes, but when we descended to the other part of the tour, photos were strictly forbidden (foreshadowing alert).
The Hall of Popes contains 266 paintings portraying all the popes.
Yep, there’s Francesco with a few of this predecessors.
As we descended to the Royal tombs we were greeted by a white Carrara marble sculpture of St. Michael Archangel whipping Lucifer’s butt.
It was a great tour underneath the basilica (about 45 minutes), but we were disappointed we couldn’t take pictures. Our guide was very helpful to point out the greatest hits of the tombs in English.
Back above ground, we were about to walk around the exterior of the basilica, when I got an idea (yes, it sometimes happens). My website had helped us secure tickets to The Last Supper … perhaps if I explained I was a writer (well, I guess you're the judge of that) they would at least send me some photos from The Royal Tombs et al).
I asked the nice lady at the desk if that would be possible. A few of them huddled and conferred (like the referees should have done in the Rams/Saints game). The woman at the desk returned and said, “Yes, it will be fine for you all to go back and take photos.” Wow, I had just wanted them to send me some.
So back down to the tombs the four of us went, led by our trusty tour guide. “How cool is this?” I thought.
We paid our respects to Michael one more time. I thought I heard him ay, “Didn’t I just see you guys?”
It was off to revisit the Royal Tombs. Vittorio Amedeo III had the vision to build a place where his ancestors and descendants could lay in rest. Currently, there are 61 members of the House of Savoy buried here.
In no particular order we saw the tomb of Vittorio Emanuele I, the Duke of Savoy and King of Sardinia in the early 19th century. At the foot of this monument is the tomb of Vittorio’s wife Queen Maria Theresa.
To his left is the tomb of Victor Amadeus III of Sardinia, Vittorio’s father. His wife Queen Maria Antonia Ferdinanda is in the tomb below.
The incredible large tomb of Carlo Alberto I, who served as the King of Sardinia from 1831-1849, is prominently displayed in the center of the crypt. Carlo attempted to unify Italy until the time of his death in 1849. There are four statues (two seen here) that surround his tomb. They represent Faith, Hope, Charity and the Genius of Fine Arts.
In the Chapel of the Queens, we find the tomb of King Charles Emanuel III of Sardinia, designed in the mid 1780s. There is an allegorical figure (the guy with wings and a helmet) called “Military Genius.”
There is a moment to Maria Teresa of Toscana, the wife of King Carlo Alberto.
Also in the Chapel of the Queens is the funeral monument to Maria Vittoria dal Pozzo della Cisterna (I think she wins for longest name, too), the wife of Amedeo Ferdinando, the King of Spain. Maria was of great help to the poorest women in Spain, and when she died they sent two handmade silk rose crowns, which she holds in her hands.
The Chapel of the Infants houses the remains of 14 children and nine adults.
It was quite a time experiencing this area with just the five of us. We left a nice donation for their efforts in allowing us to return to take photos.
Back outside we looked up at the bell tower …
… and then walked to the back of the church where another memorial stands. This one to an ill-fated soccer team. In May of 1949, the Grande Torino football team’s airplane, on a return trip from a game in Lisbon, Portugal, crashed into the embankment of the Superga. In all, 31 people perished in the accident.
Since then, Superga hill has been a pilgrimage spot for people to come honor the team that won five consecutive Premiere Leagues and one Italian Cup.
Photos of the team and scarves mark the spot. Each year, on the anniversary of the tragedy, “thousands of fans climb up the hill to remember the team.”
It was a gorgeous day, so we took one last look at this marvelous building.
We walked back down to the Superga station and waited for the next tram.
Eighteen minutes down and it was time to return to Turin, since there were no restaurants of interest in the area.
As we soon found out, there were no taxis either. We decided we would take a tram back to town. Nearby were two stops for the tram, one going to the right … the other to the left. Mary, Tracy and I asked which tram we should take, and the guy pointed to the left. So, of course, when Kim asked which one we should take, Mary said the one that was headed to the right. Why, I don’t know.
We told Kim that the guy pointed to the left, and he said (and may I emphasize Kim said this), “Never in doubt, seldom right.” Yes, they are still married. So at the tram stop headed to the right, Mary and I asked a construction worker which tram would take us back to Turin. He answered, “The one across the street going left.” By that time, Kim and Tracy were already waiting at that stop.
On the tram, we faced another dilemma … how do we pay? There was a machine for depositing coins, but we had no idea how much. Since no one spoke English, and our Italian is about as good as any of our other foreign langue skills, I didn’t have a clue what to do (something that should be inscribed on my tombstone).
Then one of us (I don’t remember who) said, “I think I read that transportation is covered in the Torino+Piemonte Card.” That sounded like a good answer, so we exited at the station near the Piazza Reale. Because we had donated money at the basilica, I didn’t feel too guilty, and since we were not struck by a bolt of lightning, we went in search of a restaurant after Kim and Mary bought some soccer gifts for their grandchildren.
By now it was after 2:30 and since we had early dinner reservations, we all decided to eschew lunch and check out a couple of more Turin sights. When in Turin, it’s always “Shroud Time,” so we headed over to Museo della Sindone (Holy Shroud Museum).
There is an interesting 15-minute film to open, but Tracy and I only found the museum mildly interesting (I think Kim and Mary liked it more), including this piece that held the shroud until about 20 years ago.
I was very interested in visiting the adjacent Santo Sudario, which was a private area where the Dukes of Savoy worshipped and where a copy of the shroud is displayed over a “gilded altar.” It was closed for renovation.
But there was still one more place of worship (I’ve got to count these up) nearby that looked interesting on paper … Santuario Basilica La Consolata. It was constructed in the 11th century and underwent a series of renovations in the 1700s.
A Romanesque campanile still stands.
We had really looked forward to seeing the Chapel Of The Grazie, but a funeral was taking place so we had to see it from afar. It looked beautiful.
Highlights included The Chapel Of St. Andrea incorporating an ancient altar …
… and, once again not surprisingly, a colorful ceiling.
We checked out The Small Choir Of The Two Queens (of the Savoy House) … Queen Maria Teresa (Carlo Alberto’s wife) and Maria Adelaide (wife of King Vittorio Emanuele II) who died at the young age of 33 after enduring some tough pregnancies.
True to its name, The Major Sacristy And The Corridor Of The Crucifix contains a crucifix from the late 17th century.
I think by now we had run out of churches …
… so after a few more minutes we returned to our B&B to pack for the next day’s journey.
Returning to Osteria La Capannina for dinner, we saw that our waiter from the first night was serving as maitre D. It seems Jerry Orbach got the night off. We were seated in the covered patio area, which was good because there was a heavy mist.
Once again dinner was good (but not quite as spot on as the first night) and included my risotto with artichokes and gnocchi in cream sauce. I was now a full-fledged pasta consumer.
We’d hit the road tomorrow for our final destination. On the way we’d utilize that Torino+Piemente card one last time at another Savoy Royal palace.
In about 90 minutes after that, we’d reach one of the most beautiful spots we have ever stayed. Orta San Giulio is gorgeous, and the location of our B&B couldn’t have been more perfect.
After arriving and eating a quick lunch along the lake we’d hike up (with the emphasis once again on “up”) to a UNESCO sight. Three out of four of us would make it all the way up the hill, but we’d all get together later for a late happy hour with another million dollar view.
Next: DAY SEVENTEEN - Where's The Palace?, Veneria Disease, Quite A Hall, Going To The Chapel, Le Notre Gardens, What A View, Tracy Wipes Out, Chivalry Is Officially Dead, Ascending The Summit, Calling It A Day, Corkscrewed, Wine Shop To The Rescue, Going To A Garden Party and I Might Have Screwed Up … Again!
Feb 8th, 2019, 01:39 PM
#204
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A dear friend of mine lived in Torino for 14 years, and I made a number of visits to her there. In 2006, she and I returned to Torino for a week as tourists, visiting old friends and revisiting sights we had both visited before. The city had been cleaned up, the traffic patterns rerouted to show off the city in the best way for the Olympics there just two months before our visit. We made great use of the Torino+ pass, traveling all over the city using the trams and buses and visiting many museums.
One very sunny day we decided to use the pass to revisit Superga. We took a tram to the incline rail and arrived at the top of the hill as Tom describes. As we walked to the basilica we rounded a corner and reached the parking lots. My friend exclaimed in surprise at the number of people--private cars and tour buses there that day--multitudes compared to the few visitors on her previous visits.
Then she exclaimed, "They are all wearing Toro colors!" We had chosen our visit for the anniversary of the tragic airplane crash. There were indeed thousands of fans there that day--buses from other towns, multigenerational families of grandpas, daddies, and children--all walking to the memorial on the hillside behind the basilica.
One very sunny day we decided to use the pass to revisit Superga. We took a tram to the incline rail and arrived at the top of the hill as Tom describes. As we walked to the basilica we rounded a corner and reached the parking lots. My friend exclaimed in surprise at the number of people--private cars and tour buses there that day--multitudes compared to the few visitors on her previous visits.
Then she exclaimed, "They are all wearing Toro colors!" We had chosen our visit for the anniversary of the tragic airplane crash. There were indeed thousands of fans there that day--buses from other towns, multigenerational families of grandpas, daddies, and children--all walking to the memorial on the hillside behind the basilica.
Feb 9th, 2019, 04:18 PM
#205
Original Poster
"We had chosen our visit for the anniversary of the tragic airplane crash. There were indeed thousands of fans there that day--buses from other towns, multigenerational families of grandpas, daddies, and children--all walking to the memorial on the hillside behind the basilica."
That must have been quite a sight to see. Thanks for sharing.
That must have been quite a sight to see. Thanks for sharing.
Feb 14th, 2019, 03:11 PM
#206
Original Poster
It was time to leave Turin for our final vacation destination, the incredibly beautiful Orta San Giulio, However, we needed to make one last visit to a Savoy Royal Palace, Reggia di Venaria Reale. Then it was on to a piece of paradise. Located on Lago d’Orta, Orta San Giulio exudes charm and the view out to Isola d’Orta is pretty magnificent. The view in the photo below is from our B&B Al Dom, where we had an evening picnic in their garden that afforded this stupendous vantage point. We’d also hike up to a UNESCO World Heritage Site to check out a bunch of chapels dedicated to St. Francis. Outside of Tracy nearly breaking her elbow, it was a great day. Link with photos below ... I can't get verbiage only to work on this one, but will figure it out for the last (yes, mercifully the last) chapter). I'll become computer literate in my next lifetime.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...ta-san-giulio/
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...ta-san-giulio/
Feb 23rd, 2019, 10:13 AM
#208
Original Poster
I told you this report would be finished at some point.. All good things (and extra long trip reports) must eventually come to an end. So it was for us as our 20-day journey came to a close. On our last day in Orta San Giulio, the four of us took a little boat ride (instead of turning a cloak into a raft) to the nearby island, where we toured the basilica and took a stroll around the peaceful island. Back in Orta San Giulio, our walk continued half way around the lake. Our dinner would consist of a remarkable risotto (utilizing an ingredient that was, to say the least, unique for any risotto I have tasted). It turned out to be my second favorite dish of the trip. The following day we’d drive to Milan (via very stormy Stresa on Lake Maggiore) and get ready for the long journey home. It was another spectacular trip, and Italy forever beckons me.
Trip report Link below with final Orta San Giulio pics and some from the entire trip below...report with no photos below photo.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...vederci-italy/
DAYS EIGHTEEN, NINETEEN & TWENTY - Market Day, Cloak On The Water, Island Of Silence, Going For A Stroll, Mary Gets Framed, I Think This Way Is Fastest, Another Trip To Venus, Channeling My Inner Anthony Bourdain, Kim Goes Down For The Count, A Risotto For The Ages, On To Stresa, Stormy Weather, Keep On Trucking, We Have Us A Convoy, Ooh It’s A Holiday (Inn), Beware Of The Giant Mosquitoes, Near Head-On, London Happy Hour, Near Head-Off & Epilogue
Gray skies should have alerted me about what to do on our last couple of days, but all I could think of at the time was sipping a cappuccino. I needed caffeine after my late night of worrying. It had rained overnight, so I hoped our luck could hold out for another 36 hours.
Walking downstairs through the entry area …
… we were greeted by Massimo in the dining area.
An array of breads, prosciutto, cheeses, fruits, cereal and yogurt were laid out on the table. We had an interesting conversation with some people from Australia, and we were on our way.
We checked out the views to Isola San Giulio where we would arrive shortly by boat. I thought about swimming, because you actually can take a dip near the Al Dom property, but since I hadn’t swam in 20 years, I passed. No sense drowning at the end of vacation.
Of course, we could have done what evangelists St. Julius and his brother Giuliano did back in the late 4th century. They both had escaped from Greece.
So the story goes, “Saint Julius and his brother had been wandering around the Mediterranean converting pagan sites into Christian churches by edict of Emperor Theodosius I. Before reaching Lake Orta, they had built 99 churches and Julius was looking for the perfect place to erect his 100th and final church. While his brother was off building a bit south of the lake, Julius came to the bank of Lake Orta where he could see the small island just a quarter mile away. It was said that snakes and dragons lived on the island (though some have theorized that the ‘snakes and dragons’ were actually Pagans), so no boatman would take Julius across. Not to be thwarted so easily, Julius laid his cloak upon the water, which instantly became firm like a raft, and used his staff to direct himself toward the island. Once there, in a St. Patrick moment, he expelled the snakes and dragons, and decided that it was the perfect place to build his final church.”
Scoping out the narrow lane that leads you to the Piazza Mario Motta …
… we ducked in the tiny church along the way (like you knew we would).
Reaching the piazza, market day greeted us, meaning my wallet would soon be in Tracy’s hands, as she and Mary perused their usual assortment of jewelry and trinkets that would soon be presents for some of our friends.
Finally, it was time to hop on the boat for the short ride (15 minutes) to the island (€4.50 round trip). As we headed out I wanted to belt out a rousing chorus of, “Cloak on the water … the dragons wait for us.” I passed, once again saving us from an embarrassing international incident.
Safely on the island without any trace of snakes or dragons, we came upon a sign proclaiming: “The Island of Silence welcomes you.” There was no sign, however, of “The Cone of Silence."
We stepped inside the Basilica, which had been badly damaged by Germany’s King Otto (I assume he had help) back in the 10th century.
The frescoes (mostly of saints) on the church walls …
… were painted over the course of six centuries.
The medieval, black Oira marble pulpit is the church’s most valuable piece. It was made in the 12th century and contains carvings with symbols representing “the Word of God and the struggle between Good and Evil.”
Then we headed down a couple of flights of stairs to the glass casket containing the remains of none other than San Giulio himself.
All in all, a very interesting church, but I think I might have said that a few times before in this report.
Back outside, it was time to walk around and through the island’s very narrow streets and alleyways.
Since Mary and Tracy had already done some shopping, it was safe to pass the souvenir shop.
A little friend greeted us along the way.
Former priests’ lodgings are now private residences.
The citizens knew I was coming and were prepared.
The four of us virtually had the island to ourselves, and it did make for a peaceful experience.
Back in Orta, we decided to continue strolling around the lake. By now Kim was not feeling well, the evil vacation cold beginning to rear its ugly cough.
We stopped to gaze at the colorful food being sold at the outdoor stalls.
A communal garden stood alongside the lake.
In the garden is a sculpture of a man painting with an open easel in front of him. Well, it was open until Mary framed herself in it.
There were some fairly spectacular views along the way. Since the season was obviously winding down, similar to Isola San Giulio, we were virtually the only four people in sight once we reached a spot out of the center of town.
A scenic path took us past art galleries, memorials and, not very surprisingly, another church.
This church dates back four centuries.
Miracoli time: On July 28, 1998, the portrait of Padre Pio appeared miraculously for the first time on the façade of this villa Gippini. We didn’t see that, but there is a fresco of San Rocco.
Villas and what we assumed were some B&Bs dotted the landscape around the lake.
The weather was still cooperating, so I was cautiously optimistic we could make it through the day, and then visit Stresa and its islands the following morning.
On the backside of the lake, Kim determined he was through for the day. We took a shortcut up a very, very steep hill (where’s that damned defibrillator when you need it?).
We walked for a bit above the lake and came to the lot where our car was parked. Upon further review because it was partly sunny, this is where I should have said, “Let’s go to Stresa now.” Instead, pressing my luck, we pressed on. Mary and Kim took the high road, while Tracy and I walked down some stairs and took the low road and we both reached Orta at the same time.
Kim and Mary retreated to the B&B, where Kim would get about 18 hours of sleep. The planets aligned, because we were at Piazza Motta at lunch time, and when planets align … it’s Ristorante Venus time.
On a warm afternoon, I channeled my inner Anthony Bourdain as we awaited our very good lunch.
I had a great onion soup and mushroom risotto …
.. however the star of the meal was dessert … a baked cinnamon apple layered with shortbread cookies in a Napoleon style with vanilla cream and raspberry sauce with a couple of slices of strawberries. I could have eaten three of them.
Tracy then joined Kim and Mary for nap time (not literally), while Mr. No Nap (aka me) went back outside to take a few more photos.
The weather was still holding on, so I had hope.
Back at the Piazza Motta, I stood outside the Palazzo della Comunità, a municipal building from the late Renaissance period (1582).
The Gelateria was sadly closed. I needed some dessert after my dessert
I got back to the room in late afternoon and was informed Kim would not be joining us for dinner. He missed out on a remarkable dish.
Tracy, Mary and me walked the short distance to La Motta Restaurant & Bistro, located at the bottom of the hill (thankfully) that takes you up to Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (where we had visited the previous day).
La Motta was jam-packed, and we were sat upstairs. I had read mixed reviews about this restaurant, however after eating our dinner it ranked up there as one of the best meals of the trip.
We started with an amuse bouche of tiny sardines in butter on brown bread. Amazingly, I really liked it (not really a sardine guy).
Tracy’s sweet onion tart made with onions from the region was delicious.
One dish, however, stood out among the best, and it came as a two-person minimum dish. Tracy and I shared a risotto made with Carnaroli Rice, Blue Goat Cheese and Caribbean Chocolate Dust. Oh my!!!! Outside of the white truffle pasta in Bovio, this was my favorite dish of the trip.
Note: Tracy made this dish upon returning home (Recipe here).
Mary and Tracy said the Prosecco was also the best of the trip, and trust me, they had enough to judge.
DAY NINETEEN - I awoke in the middle of the night only to hear what I hoped I wouldn’t … a driving rain storm. It made our decision to leave a day early seem correct, but not the waiting for Stresa decision.
After one more delightful breakfast (this time with visitors from Wales), Massimo drove us to our car. B&B Al Dom would be the perfect place to stay in Orta. Combining a great host, with a location that looks like something out of the movies, a delicious breakfast and comfortable rooms, I don’t think you could do better.
We drove through Acona, which we were going to scout out, but between rain and a dearth of parking we headed on to Stresa. As feared, the rain didn’t let up, but since we hadn’t eaten in an hour we decided to stop at a cute little cafe for more coffee and pastries. The Expando Belt was getting one final workout.
Back outside, the rain was pelting down so hard I thought I saw the SS Minnow on the lake being tossed and turned on a three-hour tour. You can never get enough Gilligan’s Island. Also, there were no signs of the islands we wanted to visit.
Stresa looked like a very charming town, and hopefully someday we can return to enjoy it without a Nor’easter blowing through.
We headed toward Milan, and reaching its outskirts, we were glad to have not done this during rush hour traffic the following morning. There were so many trucks surrounding us, I felt like yelling out “10-4.”
Soon we were at our lodging for the final night, a nondescript Holiday Inn that was fine for our last night, although this little sign in our room made us ponder our decision.
Actually, dinner was good, and we didn’t have to concern ourselves with a harrowing drive the following morning.
DAY TWENTY - Taking the shuttle to Linate nearly was the last thing we’d ever do in Italy. As the driver turns on to the blind exit, a woman driving too fast and entering the property through the exit nearly caused a head-on accident. Kudos to our shuttle driver.
Then it was on to London, where we had just enough time for lunch and one final GinTonic (technically, it was also my first GinTonic of the trip), before the long flight home.
As we taxied onto the runway, the overhead compartment popped open directly above me. Being on blood thinners, a 25-pound suitcase to the head would not be a good thing, actually a 25-pound suitcase to anyone’s head would not be a good thing. Trying to alert the flight attendant 10-feet from me proved to be more difficult than I thought, but he finally got turned around and acknowledged the situation a few minutes later.
Another successful trip concluded.
EPILOGUE: This was the Italian vacation I had dreamed about for a couple of years, spending time in cities and areas we had never visited.
Milan: Although I had read and heard negative reviews of Milan, nothing could be further from the truth. It’s such an interesting and vibrant city … a city with old churches, museums and buildings juxtaposed with high end shopping and other newer stores. Even the Starbucks was cool, as were the many well-heeled people enjoying themselves. I was told that three days might be too many. I could have stayed longer, and we will return one day.
Bologna: Another town with a remarkable buzz, and even more remarkable food, Bologna felt like a comfortable place to stay as soon as we walked past the statue of Neptune. One can easily imagine living here. As I think I stated earlier (it’s been so long since I started this report), you could go to a different restaurant for 365 nights and never find a bad one. Its citizens are young and energetic, Bologna was a winner.
Padua & Ravenna Day Trips: From the frescoes of Padova’s mind-boggling Cappella degli Scrovegni to the remarkable Ravenna mosaics, both of these days were magnificent (and busy). If we return to this region (I hope so), I think our next day trips would combine cheese and balsamic tastings (oh yeah, wine, too).
Piemonte: Speaking of wine, I think this is my favorite wine region we have visited to date. Views of the hill towns and rolling vineyards are spectacular, and I have been converted to a Barbera and Barolo Boy. And, we’ll always have White truffles. Our B&B in La Morra was the perfect spot to enjoy this stunningly gorgeous area.
Turin: Lots to see here, too. From the incredible National Museum of Cinema situated in the Mole Antonelliana to the Basilica di Superga and our surprise extra visit to its Royal Tombs, Turin has a lot to offer. Oh, and those Savoy residences!
Orta San Giulio: Relaxing, with a B&B affording us the best picnic position of any of our travels, this little piece of heaven is a great place to wind down after a few weeks on non-stop activity (sorry Kim, Mary and Tracy).
I’m always slightly sad to leave Italy, but we have a few more trips planned to other areas of Italy in the future (if I live that long). Next stop for us will be Montreal and Quebec City in the fall, and next year Portugal beckons. We might even try to hit Spain for Christmas this year.
Once again, this trip exceeded even my highest expectations. Italy has never disappointed. As always:
Enjoy The Journey …
Attitude Is Everything!
Trip report Link below with final Orta San Giulio pics and some from the entire trip below...report with no photos below photo.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...vederci-italy/
DAYS EIGHTEEN, NINETEEN & TWENTY - Market Day, Cloak On The Water, Island Of Silence, Going For A Stroll, Mary Gets Framed, I Think This Way Is Fastest, Another Trip To Venus, Channeling My Inner Anthony Bourdain, Kim Goes Down For The Count, A Risotto For The Ages, On To Stresa, Stormy Weather, Keep On Trucking, We Have Us A Convoy, Ooh It’s A Holiday (Inn), Beware Of The Giant Mosquitoes, Near Head-On, London Happy Hour, Near Head-Off & Epilogue
Gray skies should have alerted me about what to do on our last couple of days, but all I could think of at the time was sipping a cappuccino. I needed caffeine after my late night of worrying. It had rained overnight, so I hoped our luck could hold out for another 36 hours.
Walking downstairs through the entry area …
… we were greeted by Massimo in the dining area.
An array of breads, prosciutto, cheeses, fruits, cereal and yogurt were laid out on the table. We had an interesting conversation with some people from Australia, and we were on our way.
We checked out the views to Isola San Giulio where we would arrive shortly by boat. I thought about swimming, because you actually can take a dip near the Al Dom property, but since I hadn’t swam in 20 years, I passed. No sense drowning at the end of vacation.
Of course, we could have done what evangelists St. Julius and his brother Giuliano did back in the late 4th century. They both had escaped from Greece.
So the story goes, “Saint Julius and his brother had been wandering around the Mediterranean converting pagan sites into Christian churches by edict of Emperor Theodosius I. Before reaching Lake Orta, they had built 99 churches and Julius was looking for the perfect place to erect his 100th and final church. While his brother was off building a bit south of the lake, Julius came to the bank of Lake Orta where he could see the small island just a quarter mile away. It was said that snakes and dragons lived on the island (though some have theorized that the ‘snakes and dragons’ were actually Pagans), so no boatman would take Julius across. Not to be thwarted so easily, Julius laid his cloak upon the water, which instantly became firm like a raft, and used his staff to direct himself toward the island. Once there, in a St. Patrick moment, he expelled the snakes and dragons, and decided that it was the perfect place to build his final church.”
Scoping out the narrow lane that leads you to the Piazza Mario Motta …
… we ducked in the tiny church along the way (like you knew we would).
Reaching the piazza, market day greeted us, meaning my wallet would soon be in Tracy’s hands, as she and Mary perused their usual assortment of jewelry and trinkets that would soon be presents for some of our friends.
Finally, it was time to hop on the boat for the short ride (15 minutes) to the island (€4.50 round trip). As we headed out I wanted to belt out a rousing chorus of, “Cloak on the water … the dragons wait for us.” I passed, once again saving us from an embarrassing international incident.
Safely on the island without any trace of snakes or dragons, we came upon a sign proclaiming: “The Island of Silence welcomes you.” There was no sign, however, of “The Cone of Silence."
We stepped inside the Basilica, which had been badly damaged by Germany’s King Otto (I assume he had help) back in the 10th century.
The frescoes (mostly of saints) on the church walls …
… were painted over the course of six centuries.
The medieval, black Oira marble pulpit is the church’s most valuable piece. It was made in the 12th century and contains carvings with symbols representing “the Word of God and the struggle between Good and Evil.”
Then we headed down a couple of flights of stairs to the glass casket containing the remains of none other than San Giulio himself.
All in all, a very interesting church, but I think I might have said that a few times before in this report.
Back outside, it was time to walk around and through the island’s very narrow streets and alleyways.
Since Mary and Tracy had already done some shopping, it was safe to pass the souvenir shop.
A little friend greeted us along the way.
Former priests’ lodgings are now private residences.
The citizens knew I was coming and were prepared.
The four of us virtually had the island to ourselves, and it did make for a peaceful experience.
Back in Orta, we decided to continue strolling around the lake. By now Kim was not feeling well, the evil vacation cold beginning to rear its ugly cough.
We stopped to gaze at the colorful food being sold at the outdoor stalls.
A communal garden stood alongside the lake.
In the garden is a sculpture of a man painting with an open easel in front of him. Well, it was open until Mary framed herself in it.
There were some fairly spectacular views along the way. Since the season was obviously winding down, similar to Isola San Giulio, we were virtually the only four people in sight once we reached a spot out of the center of town.
A scenic path took us past art galleries, memorials and, not very surprisingly, another church.
This church dates back four centuries.
Miracoli time: On July 28, 1998, the portrait of Padre Pio appeared miraculously for the first time on the façade of this villa Gippini. We didn’t see that, but there is a fresco of San Rocco.
Villas and what we assumed were some B&Bs dotted the landscape around the lake.
The weather was still cooperating, so I was cautiously optimistic we could make it through the day, and then visit Stresa and its islands the following morning.
On the backside of the lake, Kim determined he was through for the day. We took a shortcut up a very, very steep hill (where’s that damned defibrillator when you need it?).
We walked for a bit above the lake and came to the lot where our car was parked. Upon further review because it was partly sunny, this is where I should have said, “Let’s go to Stresa now.” Instead, pressing my luck, we pressed on. Mary and Kim took the high road, while Tracy and I walked down some stairs and took the low road and we both reached Orta at the same time.
Kim and Mary retreated to the B&B, where Kim would get about 18 hours of sleep. The planets aligned, because we were at Piazza Motta at lunch time, and when planets align … it’s Ristorante Venus time.
On a warm afternoon, I channeled my inner Anthony Bourdain as we awaited our very good lunch.
I had a great onion soup and mushroom risotto …
.. however the star of the meal was dessert … a baked cinnamon apple layered with shortbread cookies in a Napoleon style with vanilla cream and raspberry sauce with a couple of slices of strawberries. I could have eaten three of them.
Tracy then joined Kim and Mary for nap time (not literally), while Mr. No Nap (aka me) went back outside to take a few more photos.
The weather was still holding on, so I had hope.
Back at the Piazza Motta, I stood outside the Palazzo della Comunità, a municipal building from the late Renaissance period (1582).
The Gelateria was sadly closed. I needed some dessert after my dessert
I got back to the room in late afternoon and was informed Kim would not be joining us for dinner. He missed out on a remarkable dish.
Tracy, Mary and me walked the short distance to La Motta Restaurant & Bistro, located at the bottom of the hill (thankfully) that takes you up to Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (where we had visited the previous day).
La Motta was jam-packed, and we were sat upstairs. I had read mixed reviews about this restaurant, however after eating our dinner it ranked up there as one of the best meals of the trip.
We started with an amuse bouche of tiny sardines in butter on brown bread. Amazingly, I really liked it (not really a sardine guy).
Tracy’s sweet onion tart made with onions from the region was delicious.
One dish, however, stood out among the best, and it came as a two-person minimum dish. Tracy and I shared a risotto made with Carnaroli Rice, Blue Goat Cheese and Caribbean Chocolate Dust. Oh my!!!! Outside of the white truffle pasta in Bovio, this was my favorite dish of the trip.
Note: Tracy made this dish upon returning home (Recipe here).
Mary and Tracy said the Prosecco was also the best of the trip, and trust me, they had enough to judge.
DAY NINETEEN - I awoke in the middle of the night only to hear what I hoped I wouldn’t … a driving rain storm. It made our decision to leave a day early seem correct, but not the waiting for Stresa decision.
After one more delightful breakfast (this time with visitors from Wales), Massimo drove us to our car. B&B Al Dom would be the perfect place to stay in Orta. Combining a great host, with a location that looks like something out of the movies, a delicious breakfast and comfortable rooms, I don’t think you could do better.
We drove through Acona, which we were going to scout out, but between rain and a dearth of parking we headed on to Stresa. As feared, the rain didn’t let up, but since we hadn’t eaten in an hour we decided to stop at a cute little cafe for more coffee and pastries. The Expando Belt was getting one final workout.
Back outside, the rain was pelting down so hard I thought I saw the SS Minnow on the lake being tossed and turned on a three-hour tour. You can never get enough Gilligan’s Island. Also, there were no signs of the islands we wanted to visit.
Stresa looked like a very charming town, and hopefully someday we can return to enjoy it without a Nor’easter blowing through.
We headed toward Milan, and reaching its outskirts, we were glad to have not done this during rush hour traffic the following morning. There were so many trucks surrounding us, I felt like yelling out “10-4.”
Soon we were at our lodging for the final night, a nondescript Holiday Inn that was fine for our last night, although this little sign in our room made us ponder our decision.
Actually, dinner was good, and we didn’t have to concern ourselves with a harrowing drive the following morning.
DAY TWENTY - Taking the shuttle to Linate nearly was the last thing we’d ever do in Italy. As the driver turns on to the blind exit, a woman driving too fast and entering the property through the exit nearly caused a head-on accident. Kudos to our shuttle driver.
Then it was on to London, where we had just enough time for lunch and one final GinTonic (technically, it was also my first GinTonic of the trip), before the long flight home.
As we taxied onto the runway, the overhead compartment popped open directly above me. Being on blood thinners, a 25-pound suitcase to the head would not be a good thing, actually a 25-pound suitcase to anyone’s head would not be a good thing. Trying to alert the flight attendant 10-feet from me proved to be more difficult than I thought, but he finally got turned around and acknowledged the situation a few minutes later.
Another successful trip concluded.
EPILOGUE: This was the Italian vacation I had dreamed about for a couple of years, spending time in cities and areas we had never visited.
Milan: Although I had read and heard negative reviews of Milan, nothing could be further from the truth. It’s such an interesting and vibrant city … a city with old churches, museums and buildings juxtaposed with high end shopping and other newer stores. Even the Starbucks was cool, as were the many well-heeled people enjoying themselves. I was told that three days might be too many. I could have stayed longer, and we will return one day.
Bologna: Another town with a remarkable buzz, and even more remarkable food, Bologna felt like a comfortable place to stay as soon as we walked past the statue of Neptune. One can easily imagine living here. As I think I stated earlier (it’s been so long since I started this report), you could go to a different restaurant for 365 nights and never find a bad one. Its citizens are young and energetic, Bologna was a winner.
Padua & Ravenna Day Trips: From the frescoes of Padova’s mind-boggling Cappella degli Scrovegni to the remarkable Ravenna mosaics, both of these days were magnificent (and busy). If we return to this region (I hope so), I think our next day trips would combine cheese and balsamic tastings (oh yeah, wine, too).
Piemonte: Speaking of wine, I think this is my favorite wine region we have visited to date. Views of the hill towns and rolling vineyards are spectacular, and I have been converted to a Barbera and Barolo Boy. And, we’ll always have White truffles. Our B&B in La Morra was the perfect spot to enjoy this stunningly gorgeous area.
Turin: Lots to see here, too. From the incredible National Museum of Cinema situated in the Mole Antonelliana to the Basilica di Superga and our surprise extra visit to its Royal Tombs, Turin has a lot to offer. Oh, and those Savoy residences!
Orta San Giulio: Relaxing, with a B&B affording us the best picnic position of any of our travels, this little piece of heaven is a great place to wind down after a few weeks on non-stop activity (sorry Kim, Mary and Tracy).
I’m always slightly sad to leave Italy, but we have a few more trips planned to other areas of Italy in the future (if I live that long). Next stop for us will be Montreal and Quebec City in the fall, and next year Portugal beckons. We might even try to hit Spain for Christmas this year.
Once again, this trip exceeded even my highest expectations. Italy has never disappointed. As always:
Enjoy The Journey …
Attitude Is Everything!
Feb 24th, 2019, 09:59 AM
#211
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I second everything tomarkot and Adelaidean say. Plus you pack more in to one vacation than we do in two or three. And congrats on becoming a Barolo Boy. HA! I think the Piemonte put a spell on me. It's pulling me back - I hope it stays as incredible as we found it in 2012.
Feb 24th, 2019, 02:01 PM
#213
It's been a joy and an education traveling along with you through these new sites of Italy and taking in the beauty. The other day, I spotted a Piemonte red blend (Monterustico) at Total Wine, thought of your delicious TR and just had to get it. I'm sure it won't match the local wine you enjoyed but I'll savor it with the hopes I can get back to this region some day. Thank you so much for your dedication and obvious pleasure you take in writing such an illustrious TR. Where are you going next?
How about Morocco? That's next on my list and I"d love to read one of your TR's beforehand!
P.S. I share your apprehension about bruising/bleeding...I'm not on blood thinners but I have the same problem after too many years on prednisone so gingerly make my way around table corners, dishwashers , buckets and other dangerous objects.
How about Morocco? That's next on my list and I"d love to read one of your TR's beforehand!
P.S. I share your apprehension about bruising/bleeding...I'm not on blood thinners but I have the same problem after too many years on prednisone so gingerly make my way around table corners, dishwashers , buckets and other dangerous objects.
Feb 25th, 2019, 04:12 AM
#214
Original Poster
Thanks for all the nice comments. It was a fantastic trip.
T&M, yes beautiful indeed, and we lucked out on weather (well, until the end).
Adelaidean, that would be one giant coffee table book
John, I believe my traveling partners might complain we pack too much in, but they keep signing on. I must admit as I get older it gets harder (those stairs seem to be getting steeper. Looking forward to your return to Piemonte (I will have a Barolo in your honor)
Karen, we all take lots of photos (Tracy and I with our Iphones, and Kim with his super-duper camera). I'd say for the report, Tracy leads the way followed by Kim with me a fairly distant third. I love going through the photos because we all have a "different eye" so we get many perspectives of the same thing.
Barefoot, I take prednisone, also, so I get the "fun" double whammy. I bruise so easily that Tracy jokes that she's scared she'll be charged with elder abuse, but as my dad used to say, "It beats the alternative." Our next trip will be Quebec City and Montreal (with Kim and Mary) Poor Canada doesn't know what it's in for.
T&M, yes beautiful indeed, and we lucked out on weather (well, until the end).
Adelaidean, that would be one giant coffee table book
John, I believe my traveling partners might complain we pack too much in, but they keep signing on. I must admit as I get older it gets harder (those stairs seem to be getting steeper. Looking forward to your return to Piemonte (I will have a Barolo in your honor)
Karen, we all take lots of photos (Tracy and I with our Iphones, and Kim with his super-duper camera). I'd say for the report, Tracy leads the way followed by Kim with me a fairly distant third. I love going through the photos because we all have a "different eye" so we get many perspectives of the same thing.
Barefoot, I take prednisone, also, so I get the "fun" double whammy. I bruise so easily that Tracy jokes that she's scared she'll be charged with elder abuse, but as my dad used to say, "It beats the alternative." Our next trip will be Quebec City and Montreal (with Kim and Mary) Poor Canada doesn't know what it's in for.
Feb 25th, 2019, 04:39 AM
#215
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Thanks Tom another great trip report !
I've been following your trips on your blog & have loved them all. Feel like I know you all
I have read your Spain report many times, as that's where we are going in May followed by Portugal. So all your handy tips & recommendations will come in handy . I do actually make books of all our trips but they are too big for a coffee table !!!Happy travels to you all.
I've been following your trips on your blog & have loved them all. Feel like I know you all
I have read your Spain report many times, as that's where we are going in May followed by Portugal. So all your handy tips & recommendations will come in handy . I do actually make books of all our trips but they are too big for a coffee table !!!Happy travels to you all.
Feb 26th, 2019, 04:17 AM
#217
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Thanks for another great report Tom. Seems like we have been following in some of your footsteps the past few years. This year we are going to Quebec city in August. We have been to Canada many times, as we have family there, but have never made it to Quebec.
You will love Portugal! Be sure to get to the Douro Valley. It is absolutely beautiful! Stop at Age Verification / Verificação de Idade | Quinta do Pôpa as they have the most amazing view! It is a relatively new vineyard but the wine is good and you can't beat the view! You won't believe how inexpensive the wine is in Portugal. As a sommelier told at one of the restaurants "You do not need to spend a lot of money to get the best quality wine in Portugal!" Believe him.
You will love Portugal! Be sure to get to the Douro Valley. It is absolutely beautiful! Stop at Age Verification / Verificação de Idade | Quinta do Pôpa as they have the most amazing view! It is a relatively new vineyard but the wine is good and you can't beat the view! You won't believe how inexpensive the wine is in Portugal. As a sommelier told at one of the restaurants "You do not need to spend a lot of money to get the best quality wine in Portugal!" Believe him.
Feb 26th, 2019, 09:20 AM
#218
Tom, I didn't want this report to end. The photos are stunning. While in Portugal, don't fail to visit and have lunch at the Bussaco Palace Hotel. Not too well known to foreign tourists. Take care.
