We Still Didn’t Drink All The Vino: Mai Tai Tom’s 2018 Return To Italy
Dec 16th, 2018, 12:51 PM
#141
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Good train info on the time spread for ticket use!
Tom, I've been wondering if the mosaics in Ravenna could compare to those in Sicily. I didn't see how they could! But wow! They are just as spectacular, similar in some ways, but overall very different which is a surprise. Since I love mosaics, looks like I will be finally making it to Ravenna too. Ravioli in sage and butter sauce, yum. I had this in Rome and tried to make it at home just throwing it together. Failed miserably, but I think I'll dig out my Italian cookbook and see if there is something in there.
Can't wait for the rest of this great TR! Grazie mille!
Tom, I've been wondering if the mosaics in Ravenna could compare to those in Sicily. I didn't see how they could! But wow! They are just as spectacular, similar in some ways, but overall very different which is a surprise. Since I love mosaics, looks like I will be finally making it to Ravenna too. Ravioli in sage and butter sauce, yum. I had this in Rome and tried to make it at home just throwing it together. Failed miserably, but I think I'll dig out my Italian cookbook and see if there is something in there.
Can't wait for the rest of this great TR! Grazie mille!
Dec 16th, 2018, 07:27 PM
#143
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Dayle, I have made the ravioli at home many times very easily just by melting butter and then adding chopped fresh sage (has to be fresh sage) and letting it cook for a couple of minutes before adding the cooked ravioli. Made some of this in the cooking class that I took in Rome in September (using the freshly hand-made pasta we made in the class greatly improved the dish! 😁
. I also like sauteing a couple of ounces of pancetta in the pan before adding the butter and then the sage. Not something you will find in Italy but really good!
. I also like sauteing a couple of ounces of pancetta in the pan before adding the butter and then the sage. Not something you will find in Italy but really good!
Dec 18th, 2018, 11:58 AM
#146
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Maitaitom, each place seems more beautiful than the one before. It's your tremendous photos and delightful commentary which make it seem so! You introduced us to Ravenna, another place of amazing art. We'll hang on for the remainder of the ride. Fabulous!
Dec 19th, 2018, 02:06 AM
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I use the little hand-turned pasta machine now when I feel inspired to make pasta by hand. Even experienced Italian cooks often use that for filled pasta, like ravioli and lasagne. There are also several types of pasta that don't have to be rolled out, like orecchiette.
Dec 19th, 2018, 12:24 PM
#150
Original Poster
It was off to Piemonte wine country. In 2005, as many of you remember, we killed our Fiat after a few days. Our rental car today, wouldn't even live that long. However, once we finally hit Piemonte, we realized what a special place this would be. After touring one cute town (where we also had lunch), we made it to our B&B in La Morra that included a billion dollar view. it's also a winery, so we received s complimentary tour that included wine tasting. We had met up with a couple of other friends here, so the six of us would drive to dinner down a steep hill. One problem ... our car only held five. Desperate times call for desperate measures.
As always, the story with photos is in link below. If you don't want photos of the lovely Piemonte wine country, the entire report is below one of the views from our La Morra B&B.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...s-of-piemonte/
DAY TEN - Death Of A Rental Car (2018 Version), Maybe We Shouldn’t Have Left Them Alone In The Garage, Mary & Tracy’s Wild Ride, Can’t Get Enough Of That Sage, Exploring Neive, Introducing Greg & Gloria, A View To Kill For, Wine Time, Mary Gets The Boot, My Love Affair With White Truffles and Now Greg Gets The Boot
We awoke early on this Tuesday morning filled with trepidation. For the first time since 2005, the four of us would rent a car in Italy. To quickly recap that rental nightmare, upon picking up the rental car, I realized I had no idea how to put the car in reverse, resulting in a rather embarrassing moment when Kim, Mary and Tracy had to push our car backward into a Spello parking space, much to the dismay of local citizens.
A few days later, however, we would top that fiasco. Stopping at a gas station between Gubbio and San Quirico d’Orcia, the American brain trust put Super gas into a Diesel car, causing our car to rapidly lose power, careen down a mountain road and eventually glide through an empty gas station into a meadow where its rather frazzled driver mistook the clutch for a brake. A day that will live in infamy.
Fast forward to today. Our taxi deposited us at the Bologna Central Rail Office, which is not really located at the train station but on a street full of businesses. We got our keys and walked a few blocks to where our car was located downstairs in a dark parking garage. It was a little after 8 a.m.
This automobile must have had a tough life. Its significant dents made it look like it had just completed a rough Daytona 500, and it was missing a gas cap, not to mention its cover. Since our paperwork showed no damage, we took some photos and Kim and I trudged back to the Hertz office, leaving the ladies alone in a desolate parking garage (who said chivalry was dead?), which upon further review might not have been the right thing to do.
The Hertz representative said this was the only car, and he duly noted the damage. Back we walked to the car, and loaded the luggage. It was time to leave.
Since we were going to be driving some large hills in La Morra, we had rented an automatic at a price barely above the price of a manual from AutoEurope. Of course, with the insurance fees you have to pay in Italy, I think it came out to a little less than what I paid for my first car purchase in 1975.
“3. 2. 1. Ignition. ” Unfortunately, no lift off. Try as I might, the car would not start. My always supportive crew said, “What the hell are you doing wrong?” As it turned out, nothing. Had Dr. McCoy from Star Trek been there, he would have said, “It’s dead, Tom.”
Once again we left Mary and Tracy behind and walked back to the Hertz office. I was trying my best to be “EuroTom,” who is the guy without a temper. We told the Hertz rep about our problem, and in a kind way he said we were wrong, because the car was working earlier. He sent his garage mechanic over to “show” Mary and Tracy that they had married a couple of idiots (like they needed any further proof).
Guess what? The car didn’t start, so he had Mary and Tracy climb into his car for the short ride (“short” being the key word). Tracy and Mary said the guy drove like an Indianapolis 500 driver, but they did survive the short journey.
As stated, our “dead” car was the only one here, so the rep said they’d get one from the airport and have it sent to our location. It would “only” be an hour to an hour and half … so much for my plan to have an early lunch in a Piemonte hill town and explore the area. “EuroTom” was being severely tested.
Mary and Kim walked down the street for a coffee, while Tracy and I stood on the sidewalk looking like a couple of drifters trying to panhandle for money. The only thing missing was a cigarette hanging out of my mouth.
Soon a small Jeep pulled up (“small” being the operative word). One by one, five impeccably dressed businessmen exited the vehicle. I hadn’t seen anything like this since the clown car at the circus.
They weren’t very happy. They needed to drive to a business conference near Rome, and this was the car they had been given. Of course, Hertz had no other cars, so they had to get back (carefully) into the car, packed like sardines. To their credit, although you could tell they were miffed, they all had a good sense of humor. I said, “I hope you guys like each other.” One guy replied, “Check back with us in three hours.”
Finally, at a little before 11 a.m., another car showed up (a Kadjar, who I thought was a magician at a Las Vegas lounge show). We were finally on our way. Since the car was smaller, the luggage barely fit, but by now we had no choice. To their credit, the Hertz people were incredibly apologetic, and the manager came out with a voucher for a discount on any car we rent with them in the future.
In about 2 1/2 hours (I’m waiting for the traffic tickets to be mailed from the Italian police), we arrived in Neive, a charming (they’re all charming, by the way) hill town in the hills of Piemonte. It was in Neive where the renowned French oenologist, Louis Oudart, fooled around with a Nebbiolo grape (in a good way) and eventually wound up with a gold medal at the London International Exhibition of 1862 for the creation of Barbaresco or Barolo (or neither), depending on which story you believe.
They don’t call these hill towns for nothing … so we started our climb in search of lunch.
At least as you walk uphill there are plenty of interesting buildings and sights along the way.
As it turned out, Neive was a piece of cake compared to some of the towns that would test my endurance and balance.
So would the cobblestones.
In search of a restaurant we came upon a memorial to those who perished in the two World Wars.
The Giardini Dei Conti Di Castelborgo is guarded by an interesting looking gate. To the right is a palazzo, which now houses the Regional Bakery School. We were on a roll.
Surprisingly the main Piazza in Neive is not named Mike, but the Piazza Italia. On this piazza is the Palazzo Comunale, which was constructed in the latter half of the 18th century, which coincidentally felt like the last time we ate.
At the top of the hill we finally reached a restaurant. It had a commanding view out over the vineyards and even the Alps. It also commanded us to have a full wallet, as the prices were, like the Alps in the distance, fairly steep.
We moved on until we reached a cute, little place called L’Aromatario, and were seated at 2 p.m. in cozy room with a brick vaulted ceiling in the back. Now I know you will find this incredibly unusual, but I (and Kim) ordered a pasta pesto … with butter and sage.
Mary tried the lentil soup with crab, and Tracy went for a salad and ravioli with sage butter. Lunch was quite good, not only because we were famished.
Very near the restaurant were two (you guessed it) churches. By now, even God was getting sick of me. I’m surprised when we walked into Santi Pietro e Paolo I didn’t hear a booming voice going, “You again?!”
However, I was greeted by my old buddy St. Michael, who helped me out back in 2010, so I always pay my respects when I run into him.
It was an impressive church.
The church’s bell tower dates from 1731.
Nearby is San Michele, which was built in the 18th century. Its doors were shut.
Walking back to our car, we stopped for a moment to admire the exterior of the small San Rocco Cappella, a 15th century chapel rebuilt in the mid 1700s.
We were back on the road, and sadly, thanks to our morning rental car ordeal, didn’t get to check out any more towns as we headed to our home in La Morra. However, as we drove though the Piemonte countryside, we realized this lush area was going to be fun to explore for the next few days.
We drove up a winding, steep road toward Rocche Costamagna Art Suites, where we would be spending four nights. Besides being a B&B, Rocche Costamagna is also a winery established in 1841. Included in the price of the room is a 90-minute tour of the winery.
As we nearly reached the top of the hill to La Morra, we circumnavigated the streets of La Morra, and circled back to our B&B.
After the luggage was taken out, I parked down the street at a nearby lot. I walked back to what I now call “B&B Heaven.” Walking inside there was a large reception area, and a room (the enoteca) where wine tastings are conducted.
To the left is a breakfast room that leads out to a patio with tables for wine tastings and a billion dollar view of the rolling vineyards.
In the reception area, we met up with friends Greg and Gloria, who had begun their vacation in Barcelona, cruised up to Venice and were ending their journey here for their last four days. We booked a 5:30 wine tasting for six and headed to our room.
The four rooms were located up a short set of stairs. Our room (#4) became patio party headquarters for the next four nights, as it had the best panoramic view from the large terrace overlooking even more vineyards. We found out that the rooms were part of a renovation of an old farmhouse adjoining the winery,
At 5:30, we all met downstairs and commenced on our journey through Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and Barolo history. The room is also a museum of sorts containing historic documents and “objects which testify to the winery’s history.”
The winery has been in the family for six generations. The ancient bottles on display are fascinating, with one dating back to 1866 (must have been a good year).
There were also paintings (by the owner’s mom) and old winery tools.
After this interesting introduction, we descended down a spiral staircase, which I somehow navigated without falling on my noggin.’
Downstairs we walked through the wine cellars constructed in the 18th century.
Back upstairs, it was time to taste, always my favorite part.
Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and Barolo wines were swirled and sipped. It was a good representation of Rocche Costamagna’s selection, and I think my favorite was the Nebbiolo.
Over the course of the next few days we would buy our fair share from them (at a guest discount).
After the wine tasting, we participated in a complimentary cheese and cracker and (of course) a little more vino-fest, served on the large terrace adjacent to the breakfast room. It was there we met the owner, Alessandro. It only took Mary about a minute to invite him and his family to their house in Northern California. We quickly confiscated her wine.
In the distance from our terrace were the snow-capped Alps, and Alessandro told us that this was the first day in nearly six months they had been visible from the terrace. Timing, baby!
Now we had to come up with a plan to get to dinner. I had made 8 p.m. reservations for six people at L'Osteria del Vignaiolo, a seven-minute drive down the hill. Since our car only held five people this presented a problem if we wanted to drink wine with dinner. Alessandro said a taxi would cost 30€, and we would need two taxis both to and from the restaurant.
In what could be considered a coincidence, since we were driving a hatchback, a plan was hatched. With no luggage, the car’s boot was empty. Mary volunteered to ride in the boot on the way to the restaurant. It reminded me of the days when someone would hide in the trunk to save money at the drive-in theater (you remember those). Kim also took one for the team and offered to serve as our designated driver.
Down the hill we traveled to L'Osteria del Vignaiolo, and fortunately we were not rear-ended or we might have had to change the reservation to five. Perusing the menu, one dish jumped off the page … gnocchi with white truffles. White truffle season had just started in Piemonte so there was no doubt in my mind what I would order.
After an amuse bouche …
… I began with the spinach pasta (yes, I could live entirely on pasta and vino), and afterward my gnocchi arrived. At the same moment a gentleman appeared and started to shave pieces of white truffle on my plate, each one carefully weighed. At some point I said “Stop,” (I think Tracy hit me beside the head so I didn’t spend all our money) and the cost of the truffles were calculated. Damn, it was incredible!!! Thankfully, they didn’t weigh me afterward.
All the dishes were good, from Kim’s lamb chops to …
… to Tracy’s Quail in mashed potatoes in a parmesan basket …
.. to Greg and Gloria’s Porcini Mushroom risotto and a lamb roast.
Mary again sprouted her gills with a sea bass.
No one had room for dessert, but it seems that’s not an option because we were brought two complimentary plates of cookies and truffles. Somehow we regained our collective appetites just in time to devour them all. All this and three bottles of wine set us back a mere €66 per couple (even with the white truffles).
As I relaxed with a final sip of wine, I glanced over to the adjacent table. Underneath it a little face peered out. It was a cute, well-behaved beagle.
On the way home, Greg told Mary he would get the boot, and even after a huge meal he could fit. Kim got us back safely, and we drifted off to sleep with truffles dancing in our head.
That’s because tomorrow we would head to Alba where we’d meet up with a guide who would take us on a hunt for white truffles with his trusty (and nimble) dog.
We’d then have lunch in Alba and walk around the town gearing up for the International Alba White Truffle Fair that would start in two days.
Our caravan would then take us to Barbaresco, where we’d search for wine in an old church.
Since that was not enough (rest when you die), we toured a cool castle with stupendous views.
After a ten-minute nap back at Rocche Costamagna (sleep is so overrated), the six of us gathered with prosciutto, cheese and vino on the terrace before a dinner that only was a few hundred feet from our B&B.
CHAPTER ELEVEN - TRACKING TRUFFLES
Next - DAY ELEVEN - Get Me To The Station On Time, Going To The Dogs, “I’ll Have To Kill You,” The “Renaldo Of Truffle Dogs,” Wandering The “Capital Of White Truffles”, Crushed In Barbaresco, Praying For A Wine Choice, One View Better Than The Next, Stamp My UNESCO Card Again, Terrace Time Picnic & Dinner Amongst The Boxes
As always, the story with photos is in link below. If you don't want photos of the lovely Piemonte wine country, the entire report is below one of the views from our La Morra B&B.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...s-of-piemonte/
DAY TEN - Death Of A Rental Car (2018 Version), Maybe We Shouldn’t Have Left Them Alone In The Garage, Mary & Tracy’s Wild Ride, Can’t Get Enough Of That Sage, Exploring Neive, Introducing Greg & Gloria, A View To Kill For, Wine Time, Mary Gets The Boot, My Love Affair With White Truffles and Now Greg Gets The Boot
We awoke early on this Tuesday morning filled with trepidation. For the first time since 2005, the four of us would rent a car in Italy. To quickly recap that rental nightmare, upon picking up the rental car, I realized I had no idea how to put the car in reverse, resulting in a rather embarrassing moment when Kim, Mary and Tracy had to push our car backward into a Spello parking space, much to the dismay of local citizens.
A few days later, however, we would top that fiasco. Stopping at a gas station between Gubbio and San Quirico d’Orcia, the American brain trust put Super gas into a Diesel car, causing our car to rapidly lose power, careen down a mountain road and eventually glide through an empty gas station into a meadow where its rather frazzled driver mistook the clutch for a brake. A day that will live in infamy.
Fast forward to today. Our taxi deposited us at the Bologna Central Rail Office, which is not really located at the train station but on a street full of businesses. We got our keys and walked a few blocks to where our car was located downstairs in a dark parking garage. It was a little after 8 a.m.
This automobile must have had a tough life. Its significant dents made it look like it had just completed a rough Daytona 500, and it was missing a gas cap, not to mention its cover. Since our paperwork showed no damage, we took some photos and Kim and I trudged back to the Hertz office, leaving the ladies alone in a desolate parking garage (who said chivalry was dead?), which upon further review might not have been the right thing to do.
The Hertz representative said this was the only car, and he duly noted the damage. Back we walked to the car, and loaded the luggage. It was time to leave.
Since we were going to be driving some large hills in La Morra, we had rented an automatic at a price barely above the price of a manual from AutoEurope. Of course, with the insurance fees you have to pay in Italy, I think it came out to a little less than what I paid for my first car purchase in 1975.
“3. 2. 1. Ignition. ” Unfortunately, no lift off. Try as I might, the car would not start. My always supportive crew said, “What the hell are you doing wrong?” As it turned out, nothing. Had Dr. McCoy from Star Trek been there, he would have said, “It’s dead, Tom.”
Once again we left Mary and Tracy behind and walked back to the Hertz office. I was trying my best to be “EuroTom,” who is the guy without a temper. We told the Hertz rep about our problem, and in a kind way he said we were wrong, because the car was working earlier. He sent his garage mechanic over to “show” Mary and Tracy that they had married a couple of idiots (like they needed any further proof).
Guess what? The car didn’t start, so he had Mary and Tracy climb into his car for the short ride (“short” being the key word). Tracy and Mary said the guy drove like an Indianapolis 500 driver, but they did survive the short journey.
As stated, our “dead” car was the only one here, so the rep said they’d get one from the airport and have it sent to our location. It would “only” be an hour to an hour and half … so much for my plan to have an early lunch in a Piemonte hill town and explore the area. “EuroTom” was being severely tested.
Mary and Kim walked down the street for a coffee, while Tracy and I stood on the sidewalk looking like a couple of drifters trying to panhandle for money. The only thing missing was a cigarette hanging out of my mouth.
Soon a small Jeep pulled up (“small” being the operative word). One by one, five impeccably dressed businessmen exited the vehicle. I hadn’t seen anything like this since the clown car at the circus.
They weren’t very happy. They needed to drive to a business conference near Rome, and this was the car they had been given. Of course, Hertz had no other cars, so they had to get back (carefully) into the car, packed like sardines. To their credit, although you could tell they were miffed, they all had a good sense of humor. I said, “I hope you guys like each other.” One guy replied, “Check back with us in three hours.”
Finally, at a little before 11 a.m., another car showed up (a Kadjar, who I thought was a magician at a Las Vegas lounge show). We were finally on our way. Since the car was smaller, the luggage barely fit, but by now we had no choice. To their credit, the Hertz people were incredibly apologetic, and the manager came out with a voucher for a discount on any car we rent with them in the future.
In about 2 1/2 hours (I’m waiting for the traffic tickets to be mailed from the Italian police), we arrived in Neive, a charming (they’re all charming, by the way) hill town in the hills of Piemonte. It was in Neive where the renowned French oenologist, Louis Oudart, fooled around with a Nebbiolo grape (in a good way) and eventually wound up with a gold medal at the London International Exhibition of 1862 for the creation of Barbaresco or Barolo (or neither), depending on which story you believe.
They don’t call these hill towns for nothing … so we started our climb in search of lunch.
At least as you walk uphill there are plenty of interesting buildings and sights along the way.
As it turned out, Neive was a piece of cake compared to some of the towns that would test my endurance and balance.
So would the cobblestones.
In search of a restaurant we came upon a memorial to those who perished in the two World Wars.
The Giardini Dei Conti Di Castelborgo is guarded by an interesting looking gate. To the right is a palazzo, which now houses the Regional Bakery School. We were on a roll.
Surprisingly the main Piazza in Neive is not named Mike, but the Piazza Italia. On this piazza is the Palazzo Comunale, which was constructed in the latter half of the 18th century, which coincidentally felt like the last time we ate.
At the top of the hill we finally reached a restaurant. It had a commanding view out over the vineyards and even the Alps. It also commanded us to have a full wallet, as the prices were, like the Alps in the distance, fairly steep.
We moved on until we reached a cute, little place called L’Aromatario, and were seated at 2 p.m. in cozy room with a brick vaulted ceiling in the back. Now I know you will find this incredibly unusual, but I (and Kim) ordered a pasta pesto … with butter and sage.
Mary tried the lentil soup with crab, and Tracy went for a salad and ravioli with sage butter. Lunch was quite good, not only because we were famished.
Very near the restaurant were two (you guessed it) churches. By now, even God was getting sick of me. I’m surprised when we walked into Santi Pietro e Paolo I didn’t hear a booming voice going, “You again?!”
However, I was greeted by my old buddy St. Michael, who helped me out back in 2010, so I always pay my respects when I run into him.
It was an impressive church.
The church’s bell tower dates from 1731.
Nearby is San Michele, which was built in the 18th century. Its doors were shut.
Walking back to our car, we stopped for a moment to admire the exterior of the small San Rocco Cappella, a 15th century chapel rebuilt in the mid 1700s.
We were back on the road, and sadly, thanks to our morning rental car ordeal, didn’t get to check out any more towns as we headed to our home in La Morra. However, as we drove though the Piemonte countryside, we realized this lush area was going to be fun to explore for the next few days.
We drove up a winding, steep road toward Rocche Costamagna Art Suites, where we would be spending four nights. Besides being a B&B, Rocche Costamagna is also a winery established in 1841. Included in the price of the room is a 90-minute tour of the winery.
As we nearly reached the top of the hill to La Morra, we circumnavigated the streets of La Morra, and circled back to our B&B.
After the luggage was taken out, I parked down the street at a nearby lot. I walked back to what I now call “B&B Heaven.” Walking inside there was a large reception area, and a room (the enoteca) where wine tastings are conducted.
To the left is a breakfast room that leads out to a patio with tables for wine tastings and a billion dollar view of the rolling vineyards.
In the reception area, we met up with friends Greg and Gloria, who had begun their vacation in Barcelona, cruised up to Venice and were ending their journey here for their last four days. We booked a 5:30 wine tasting for six and headed to our room.
The four rooms were located up a short set of stairs. Our room (#4) became patio party headquarters for the next four nights, as it had the best panoramic view from the large terrace overlooking even more vineyards. We found out that the rooms were part of a renovation of an old farmhouse adjoining the winery,
At 5:30, we all met downstairs and commenced on our journey through Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and Barolo history. The room is also a museum of sorts containing historic documents and “objects which testify to the winery’s history.”
The winery has been in the family for six generations. The ancient bottles on display are fascinating, with one dating back to 1866 (must have been a good year).
There were also paintings (by the owner’s mom) and old winery tools.
After this interesting introduction, we descended down a spiral staircase, which I somehow navigated without falling on my noggin.’
Downstairs we walked through the wine cellars constructed in the 18th century.
Back upstairs, it was time to taste, always my favorite part.
Nebbiolo, Barbaresco and Barolo wines were swirled and sipped. It was a good representation of Rocche Costamagna’s selection, and I think my favorite was the Nebbiolo.
Over the course of the next few days we would buy our fair share from them (at a guest discount).
After the wine tasting, we participated in a complimentary cheese and cracker and (of course) a little more vino-fest, served on the large terrace adjacent to the breakfast room. It was there we met the owner, Alessandro. It only took Mary about a minute to invite him and his family to their house in Northern California. We quickly confiscated her wine.
In the distance from our terrace were the snow-capped Alps, and Alessandro told us that this was the first day in nearly six months they had been visible from the terrace. Timing, baby!
Now we had to come up with a plan to get to dinner. I had made 8 p.m. reservations for six people at L'Osteria del Vignaiolo, a seven-minute drive down the hill. Since our car only held five people this presented a problem if we wanted to drink wine with dinner. Alessandro said a taxi would cost 30€, and we would need two taxis both to and from the restaurant.
In what could be considered a coincidence, since we were driving a hatchback, a plan was hatched. With no luggage, the car’s boot was empty. Mary volunteered to ride in the boot on the way to the restaurant. It reminded me of the days when someone would hide in the trunk to save money at the drive-in theater (you remember those). Kim also took one for the team and offered to serve as our designated driver.
Down the hill we traveled to L'Osteria del Vignaiolo, and fortunately we were not rear-ended or we might have had to change the reservation to five. Perusing the menu, one dish jumped off the page … gnocchi with white truffles. White truffle season had just started in Piemonte so there was no doubt in my mind what I would order.
After an amuse bouche …
… I began with the spinach pasta (yes, I could live entirely on pasta and vino), and afterward my gnocchi arrived. At the same moment a gentleman appeared and started to shave pieces of white truffle on my plate, each one carefully weighed. At some point I said “Stop,” (I think Tracy hit me beside the head so I didn’t spend all our money) and the cost of the truffles were calculated. Damn, it was incredible!!! Thankfully, they didn’t weigh me afterward.
All the dishes were good, from Kim’s lamb chops to …
… to Tracy’s Quail in mashed potatoes in a parmesan basket …
.. to Greg and Gloria’s Porcini Mushroom risotto and a lamb roast.
Mary again sprouted her gills with a sea bass.
No one had room for dessert, but it seems that’s not an option because we were brought two complimentary plates of cookies and truffles. Somehow we regained our collective appetites just in time to devour them all. All this and three bottles of wine set us back a mere €66 per couple (even with the white truffles).
As I relaxed with a final sip of wine, I glanced over to the adjacent table. Underneath it a little face peered out. It was a cute, well-behaved beagle.
On the way home, Greg told Mary he would get the boot, and even after a huge meal he could fit. Kim got us back safely, and we drifted off to sleep with truffles dancing in our head.
That’s because tomorrow we would head to Alba where we’d meet up with a guide who would take us on a hunt for white truffles with his trusty (and nimble) dog.
We’d then have lunch in Alba and walk around the town gearing up for the International Alba White Truffle Fair that would start in two days.
Our caravan would then take us to Barbaresco, where we’d search for wine in an old church.
Since that was not enough (rest when you die), we toured a cool castle with stupendous views.
After a ten-minute nap back at Rocche Costamagna (sleep is so overrated), the six of us gathered with prosciutto, cheese and vino on the terrace before a dinner that only was a few hundred feet from our B&B.
CHAPTER ELEVEN - TRACKING TRUFFLES
Next - DAY ELEVEN - Get Me To The Station On Time, Going To The Dogs, “I’ll Have To Kill You,” The “Renaldo Of Truffle Dogs,” Wandering The “Capital Of White Truffles”, Crushed In Barbaresco, Praying For A Wine Choice, One View Better Than The Next, Stamp My UNESCO Card Again, Terrace Time Picnic & Dinner Amongst The Boxes
Dec 19th, 2018, 12:48 PM
#151
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Don't feel bad about putting Mary and Greg in the boot--we did the same thing on a trip to Malibu a few years ago (needed to get six in our Jeep Grand Cherokee for dinner at Mastro's). My dermatologist buddy was willing to ride in the back as long as he didn't have to be the designated driver.
Dec 20th, 2018, 04:15 AM
#152
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Stunning views, incredibly beautiful churches in tiny towns, delicious food, friendly people, tasty truffles and great wine. Throw in a castle here and there - it just doesn't get any better than this area of the Piemonte. What a nice first day. Looking forward to more.
Dec 20th, 2018, 05:51 AM
#153
I am so happy to read your report on the Piemonte!
We loved this beautiful area, villages not far apart, wonderful food and wine.
And we put passengers in the boot, one over 6’6” tall. You do what you have to do!
Looking forward to reading more.
We loved this beautiful area, villages not far apart, wonderful food and wine.
And we put passengers in the boot, one over 6’6” tall. You do what you have to do!
Looking forward to reading more.
Dec 20th, 2018, 07:34 AM
#154
Original Poster
"it just doesn't get any better than this area of the Piemonte."
John, I agree. I hope to get back sooner rather than later. Thanks for reminding me about white truffle hunting in your trip report. It was a hoot.
twk and HappyTrvlr - Good to see others using "the boot" for human transportation.
John, I agree. I hope to get back sooner rather than later. Thanks for reminding me about white truffle hunting in your trip report. It was a hoot.
twk and HappyTrvlr - Good to see others using "the boot" for human transportation.
Dec 26th, 2018, 04:05 PM
#155
Original Poster
Our first full day in Piemonte, and we had quite an adventure to start off our day. The six of us went Truffle Hunting. Well, actually we watched as a nimble Brittany Spaniel (Nira) scoped out the countryside and scrambled up and down hills in search of truffles. It was a blast. Next, it was off to the nearby and cute town of Alba, which would hold a White Truffle Fair later in the week. After lunch in Alba, we drove through the gorgeous countryside to another great little town, Barbaresco, where we’d buy some wine … at a church. We’d finally hit a castle with remarkable views in Grinzane Cavour. Our rooftop terrace back in La Morra made for the perfect spot for a pre-dinner wine, cheese and prosciutto picnic. For dinner … white truffles, baby! Yes, life is good!
As usual, story with photos (including some great ones Kim took of the truffle hunt) are in link below. Story without photos of cute dog (or anything else) are ironically under the photo of the cute dog.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...king-truffles/
CHAPTER ELEVEN - DOGGING IT: TRACKING TRUFFLES
Next - DAY ELEVEN - Get Me To The Station On Time, Going To The Dogs, “I’ll Have To Kill You,” The “Ronaldo Of Truffle Dogs,” Wandering The “Capital Of White Truffles”, Crushed In Barbaresco, Praying For A Wine Choice, One View Better Than The Next, Stamp My UNESCO Card Again, Terrace Time Picnic, Truffle Time & Dinner Amongst The Boxes
Another gorgeous day in paradise … aka La Morra. After gazing out at a beautiful sunrise, we gathered for a feast in the Rocche Costamagna breakfast room. Soon we would be out in the wild for a little hunting expedition.
About a month before we left for Italy, I had contacted Meet Piemonte (a tour operator) and set up a White Truffle Hunt for the six of us. Our plan was to meet our guide/interpreter along with a man and his truffle hunting dog at the Alba train station at 10 a.m.
We hopped in our two cars. Greg and Gloria followed me as we headed toward Alba. The GPS we had rented from AutoEurope was a little haywire so Kim got out his phone … and Mary got out her phone. Tracy, realizing this had disaster written all over it, tried to climb in the boot.
Soon, the three GPS systems started directing me to the train station. All would have been fine if they were on the same page. Simultaneously the systems blurted out, “Turn left.” Turn right.” Finally, we went bak to one system and our caravan arrived at the Alba train station about 9:58. We parked our cars and went in search of our guides.
One slight problem, when we met them we saw their car could only fit two persons plus a dog. We had wrongly assumed we were going in a van. Instead, we were to follow them. Kim went back to get the car, but when he tried to get out, he was unable to exit because the brain trust had not read the sign that we needed to pre-pay. Finally, Elisa, our Meet Piemonte guide, helped us figure out how to exit, and we headed for the hills near Alba,
We reached a remote spot after driving up a dirt road, and the hunt was about to begin. Elisa introduced us to Giovanni and man’s best friend, the two-year-old Brittany Spaniel named Nira. What a cutie!
In Italian, with Elisa translating, Giovanni told us that Nira’s mother was the “Ronaldo” of truffle dogs, worth approximately $100,000! He has seven dogs he rotates for truffle hunting as it is a very strenuous activity for the dogs (not to mention, Giovanni). He said Nira isn’t quite the dog her mother is, but she’s still learning.
Giovanni told us that when he’s not truffle hunting, he is a wine maker with a place not too far from Barolo. Truffle season had just begun, and he said his days sometimes last up to 20 hours. He added that nighttime is the best time for truffle hunting as the scent of the truffles is stronger and there are less distractions.
As he started the next part of his introduction his expression turned into into a sly smile as he told us truffle hunting is quite lucrative, so he has to keep the area he hunts a secret, so if we told anyone it would not be good for us.
I told Elisa that wouldn’t be a problem since we barely found the train station.
We hiked into the woods, and as we trudged along, Nira was traversing the hills, running nimbly up and down the steep slopes in search of truffles. I hadn’t seen anyone navigate so quickly over dangerous terrain since our waitress at the Buza Bar in Dubrovnik.
At one point Nira started digging, and Giovanni ran to that spot. He explained he had to get there quickly because Nira would have eaten the truffle. Was it a white truffle? No, it was a black truffle. As they might say … “So Nira, yet so far-a.” Well, maybe not.
Soon Nira was at it again, and sure enough she struck pay dirt (from the dirt that pays). It was a white truffle.
In our hour or so of hunting Nira found two black truffles and one white truffle.
The entire experience last about 90 minutes and it was great fun. Some people might think it’s a little hokey, but we had a blast.
After hearing what a loser I was driving into Alba, Elisa hopped in her car back at the train station and led us to a parking lot located near the center of town. She also gave us restaurant and gelato recommendations.
There was a festive atmosphere walking into Alba past a carrousel. People were setting up for the Alba White Truffle Fair, which would commence in two days.
That truffle hunting can make you hungry, so we walked down the main drag (Via Vittorio Emanuele ) toward Vincafé, which Elisa had told us about. Of course, we hadn’t seen a church since yesterday afternoon, so first we ducked inside Chiesa di S. Maria Maddalena.
The main altar is dedicated to Santa Maria Maddalena.
At the top of the altar, we saw the famed Silver Urn that once held the body of Margherita di Savoia (Blessed Margaret of Savoy). Margherita had “requested and obtained the permission for the foundation of a new Dominican monastery, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene.”
Finally, the oval ceiling of this elliptical interior pays homage to the Savoy dynasty. The church was constructed in 1749.
Lunch at Vincafé was terrific. I was now totally addicted to ravioli with sage butter.
One good church deserves another (or two) so we headed over to Cattredale San Lorenzo, whose bell tower dates back to the 12th century.
This pretty much was a “wow” from the time we entered and saw the glorious ceiling and colorful interior.
There is a chapel dedicated to a saint that has the coolest saint name. The Chapel of Saint Bobo has an 1872 painting of the saint
We checked out The Veneration of the Madonna of the Rosary and an ancient baptismal font.
Perhaps the most interesting thing we saw here were the 34 wood-carved chorus stalls dating back to 1512. From the occasionally correct Wikipedia, “The images alternate in their subject matter. They depict differing views of development of the city of Alba, actually inventing architectural features.”
Alba is known as “The City of 100 Medieval Towers” and is definitely a spot I could stay on a future trip to the Piemonte area. Tracy simply wrote, “I love Alba!”
Our last stop on the Alba church circuit was Chiesa di S. Giovanni Battista, making it a beautiful church trifecta.
The 19th-century Side altar of St. Augustine with a 1508 painting of the Virgin Mary stood out.
A couple of more side chapels, and we were off to find gelato.
Alba’s buildings were adorned with flags, I assume in anticipation of the festival.
In a matter of moments were walking into La Romana dal 1947 for some gelato. There were lots of tempting sweets, but somehow we only went for gelato.
Back in the car, we headed toward the UNESCO World Heritage town of Barbaresco. Virtually all the drives in Piemonte are gorgeous, but heading up the hill to Barbaresco the views were spectacular.
Rolling hills of vineyards stretched as far as the eye could see.
As we got closer, I saw the house where Tracy and I will retire.
While Greg and Gloria relaxed with a glass of wine, the four us walked past the Church of San Giovanni Battista, currently under restoration.
It was fairly quiet on this Wednesday, which only added to its charm.
You could tell it was autumn by the smell permeating the air. The crush was on, and we walked by all those grapes that would someday occupy a bottle on my table.
There were thoughts of perhaps scaling the 11th-century Torre di Barbaresco. Fortunately the views out over the valley were so stupendous that going higher really didn’t make sense, especially to my legs.
When we first entered town, there was a building I wanted to explore on the way back to the car. A deconsecrated church sits across the street from the Church of San Giovanni Battista. This former religious establishment was an old parish church whose interior has been redone. It’s now the Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco. Inside, you can choose from wines made by more than 130 different wineries.
We, of course, bought a few bottles of vino while admiring its beautiful ceiling.
Walking back to the car I stopped to read a sign about a bike route, which is a 7-stage circuit that goes from Barbaresco to Barolo and back. There are lots of ways to go, and in addition to drinking some good wine, it gives bikers a chance to enjoy some medieval towns. Ah, to be young again!
We could have called it a day, but that’s not the way we roll. With beautiful scenery at every turn …
… in 20 minutes we were at Grinzane Cavour.
Staring at a steep path we stopped by the bust of Camillo Benso (the Count of Cavour) who was an instrumental figure in the movement for Italian unification. The name of this town was originally just Grinzane, but changed its name in honor of the aforementioned Count of Cavour, who also served as mayor for 17 years.
As we walked toward our destination, the Castello di Grinzane Cavour, we made a brief stop in Chiesa Parrocchiale di Maria Vergine del Carmine, a small church, but a good place for an old man to catch his breath.
A few minutes later after a little huffing and puffing we were at the castle.
Sweeping views in literally every direction took our breath away (or it might have been the climb).
The one-time home of the Count of Cavour is situated in an ideal spot. There truly is not a bad view be found.
The castle houses the Enoteca Regionale Piemontese Cavour (Piemonte Regional Wine Cellar). This “Ethnographic Museum” includes several rooms that house a permanent museum which includes displays on truffles, rare articles relating to the local food and wine tradition, 17th and 19th-century kitchen settings, a distillery from the 1700’s, a cask-maker’s workshop, and rural life.” We paid €6 and entered. The first thing I saw were the stairs. Onward and upward.
We toured many of the rooms …
… and I found it mildly interesting.
The views were worth the admittance price.
It also houses a Michelin Star restaurant and some lovely foliage for Tracy.
It was a short 15-minute drive back to La Morra. On the walk from the parking lot to Rocche Costamagna, we stopped in a little store to purchase cheese, crackers and some of the most delicious prosciutto for that evening’s terrace pre-dinner soirée (we were fully stocked with vino).
After a 10-minute power nap, we freshened up and soon the six of us were enjoying the gorgeous views while nibbling on this great food.
I believe this is the most beautiful spot we’ve ever had for one of these “picnics,” and we have been blessed with many incredible spots. Well, it might tie with a place we’d stay within a week.
For dinner, nobody had to get the boot, because Osteria More e Macine restaurant was located within a block from the B&B.
We were led downstairs to a table located next to a bunch of wine boxes. As you might surmise, this is a casual restaurant.
Right up there with truffle-hunting dog Nira and the Buza bar waitress were the servers here. They deftly climbed and descended stairs (two or three at a time) serving the meals. I pulled a hamstring just watching them.
In a “When in La Morra” moment I ordered the risotto with white truffles for my appetizer (€2.85 per gram). They brought out my risotto with the scale and started shaving that baby as white truffles drifted down on my risotto. I might have been too captivated by this scene, because by the time I said “stop,” it had cost a few more bucks than I thought. It was at this time I was happy we split the bill (thanks guys). It was delicious.
Tracy started with an eggplant flan with a parmesan crisp and risotto with corn and bacon (we think it was just bacon bits, so were not overly impressed).
Other dishes included chicken, bacon and figs (in a brodo) …
… sliced veal …
…and sliced pork loin.
Even with my white truffles and three bottles of wine, the bill came out to €62.50 a couple.
Tomorrow, we’d explore more Piemonte hill towns. Along the way we’d hit a wine museum, the steepest streets this side of San Francisco, find ourselves on a road where we hoped no cars would be traveling in the opposite direction, make an unexpected stop to take photos of incredible rows of trees and take part in a photo shoot from a spot we’d been earlier in the day.
Before our terrace picnic, Tracy and I walked around a little bit of La Morra (it’s amazing she stays married to me). Our dinner would take me far outside my comfort zone … and it was worth taking the chance.
Next: DAY TWELVE - Roll Out The Barolo, Right Out Of Disney, Snow In Piemonte, A Hill Of A Climb, This Might Have Been A Mistake, 18-Wheeler Dead Ahead, It’s A Movie Set, Guided Tours Only, No Bra, A Poplar Spot and That’s Using Your Brain
As usual, story with photos (including some great ones Kim took of the truffle hunt) are in link below. Story without photos of cute dog (or anything else) are ironically under the photo of the cute dog.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...king-truffles/
CHAPTER ELEVEN - DOGGING IT: TRACKING TRUFFLES
Next - DAY ELEVEN - Get Me To The Station On Time, Going To The Dogs, “I’ll Have To Kill You,” The “Ronaldo Of Truffle Dogs,” Wandering The “Capital Of White Truffles”, Crushed In Barbaresco, Praying For A Wine Choice, One View Better Than The Next, Stamp My UNESCO Card Again, Terrace Time Picnic, Truffle Time & Dinner Amongst The Boxes
Another gorgeous day in paradise … aka La Morra. After gazing out at a beautiful sunrise, we gathered for a feast in the Rocche Costamagna breakfast room. Soon we would be out in the wild for a little hunting expedition.
About a month before we left for Italy, I had contacted Meet Piemonte (a tour operator) and set up a White Truffle Hunt for the six of us. Our plan was to meet our guide/interpreter along with a man and his truffle hunting dog at the Alba train station at 10 a.m.
We hopped in our two cars. Greg and Gloria followed me as we headed toward Alba. The GPS we had rented from AutoEurope was a little haywire so Kim got out his phone … and Mary got out her phone. Tracy, realizing this had disaster written all over it, tried to climb in the boot.
Soon, the three GPS systems started directing me to the train station. All would have been fine if they were on the same page. Simultaneously the systems blurted out, “Turn left.” Turn right.” Finally, we went bak to one system and our caravan arrived at the Alba train station about 9:58. We parked our cars and went in search of our guides.
One slight problem, when we met them we saw their car could only fit two persons plus a dog. We had wrongly assumed we were going in a van. Instead, we were to follow them. Kim went back to get the car, but when he tried to get out, he was unable to exit because the brain trust had not read the sign that we needed to pre-pay. Finally, Elisa, our Meet Piemonte guide, helped us figure out how to exit, and we headed for the hills near Alba,
We reached a remote spot after driving up a dirt road, and the hunt was about to begin. Elisa introduced us to Giovanni and man’s best friend, the two-year-old Brittany Spaniel named Nira. What a cutie!
In Italian, with Elisa translating, Giovanni told us that Nira’s mother was the “Ronaldo” of truffle dogs, worth approximately $100,000! He has seven dogs he rotates for truffle hunting as it is a very strenuous activity for the dogs (not to mention, Giovanni). He said Nira isn’t quite the dog her mother is, but she’s still learning.
Giovanni told us that when he’s not truffle hunting, he is a wine maker with a place not too far from Barolo. Truffle season had just begun, and he said his days sometimes last up to 20 hours. He added that nighttime is the best time for truffle hunting as the scent of the truffles is stronger and there are less distractions.
As he started the next part of his introduction his expression turned into into a sly smile as he told us truffle hunting is quite lucrative, so he has to keep the area he hunts a secret, so if we told anyone it would not be good for us.
I told Elisa that wouldn’t be a problem since we barely found the train station.
We hiked into the woods, and as we trudged along, Nira was traversing the hills, running nimbly up and down the steep slopes in search of truffles. I hadn’t seen anyone navigate so quickly over dangerous terrain since our waitress at the Buza Bar in Dubrovnik.
At one point Nira started digging, and Giovanni ran to that spot. He explained he had to get there quickly because Nira would have eaten the truffle. Was it a white truffle? No, it was a black truffle. As they might say … “So Nira, yet so far-a.” Well, maybe not.
Soon Nira was at it again, and sure enough she struck pay dirt (from the dirt that pays). It was a white truffle.
In our hour or so of hunting Nira found two black truffles and one white truffle.
The entire experience last about 90 minutes and it was great fun. Some people might think it’s a little hokey, but we had a blast.
After hearing what a loser I was driving into Alba, Elisa hopped in her car back at the train station and led us to a parking lot located near the center of town. She also gave us restaurant and gelato recommendations.
There was a festive atmosphere walking into Alba past a carrousel. People were setting up for the Alba White Truffle Fair, which would commence in two days.
That truffle hunting can make you hungry, so we walked down the main drag (Via Vittorio Emanuele ) toward Vincafé, which Elisa had told us about. Of course, we hadn’t seen a church since yesterday afternoon, so first we ducked inside Chiesa di S. Maria Maddalena.
The main altar is dedicated to Santa Maria Maddalena.
At the top of the altar, we saw the famed Silver Urn that once held the body of Margherita di Savoia (Blessed Margaret of Savoy). Margherita had “requested and obtained the permission for the foundation of a new Dominican monastery, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene.”
Finally, the oval ceiling of this elliptical interior pays homage to the Savoy dynasty. The church was constructed in 1749.
Lunch at Vincafé was terrific. I was now totally addicted to ravioli with sage butter.
One good church deserves another (or two) so we headed over to Cattredale San Lorenzo, whose bell tower dates back to the 12th century.
This pretty much was a “wow” from the time we entered and saw the glorious ceiling and colorful interior.
There is a chapel dedicated to a saint that has the coolest saint name. The Chapel of Saint Bobo has an 1872 painting of the saint
We checked out The Veneration of the Madonna of the Rosary and an ancient baptismal font.
Perhaps the most interesting thing we saw here were the 34 wood-carved chorus stalls dating back to 1512. From the occasionally correct Wikipedia, “The images alternate in their subject matter. They depict differing views of development of the city of Alba, actually inventing architectural features.”
Alba is known as “The City of 100 Medieval Towers” and is definitely a spot I could stay on a future trip to the Piemonte area. Tracy simply wrote, “I love Alba!”
Our last stop on the Alba church circuit was Chiesa di S. Giovanni Battista, making it a beautiful church trifecta.
The 19th-century Side altar of St. Augustine with a 1508 painting of the Virgin Mary stood out.
A couple of more side chapels, and we were off to find gelato.
Alba’s buildings were adorned with flags, I assume in anticipation of the festival.
In a matter of moments were walking into La Romana dal 1947 for some gelato. There were lots of tempting sweets, but somehow we only went for gelato.
Back in the car, we headed toward the UNESCO World Heritage town of Barbaresco. Virtually all the drives in Piemonte are gorgeous, but heading up the hill to Barbaresco the views were spectacular.
Rolling hills of vineyards stretched as far as the eye could see.
As we got closer, I saw the house where Tracy and I will retire.
While Greg and Gloria relaxed with a glass of wine, the four us walked past the Church of San Giovanni Battista, currently under restoration.
It was fairly quiet on this Wednesday, which only added to its charm.
You could tell it was autumn by the smell permeating the air. The crush was on, and we walked by all those grapes that would someday occupy a bottle on my table.
There were thoughts of perhaps scaling the 11th-century Torre di Barbaresco. Fortunately the views out over the valley were so stupendous that going higher really didn’t make sense, especially to my legs.
When we first entered town, there was a building I wanted to explore on the way back to the car. A deconsecrated church sits across the street from the Church of San Giovanni Battista. This former religious establishment was an old parish church whose interior has been redone. It’s now the Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco. Inside, you can choose from wines made by more than 130 different wineries.
We, of course, bought a few bottles of vino while admiring its beautiful ceiling.
Walking back to the car I stopped to read a sign about a bike route, which is a 7-stage circuit that goes from Barbaresco to Barolo and back. There are lots of ways to go, and in addition to drinking some good wine, it gives bikers a chance to enjoy some medieval towns. Ah, to be young again!
We could have called it a day, but that’s not the way we roll. With beautiful scenery at every turn …
… in 20 minutes we were at Grinzane Cavour.
Staring at a steep path we stopped by the bust of Camillo Benso (the Count of Cavour) who was an instrumental figure in the movement for Italian unification. The name of this town was originally just Grinzane, but changed its name in honor of the aforementioned Count of Cavour, who also served as mayor for 17 years.
As we walked toward our destination, the Castello di Grinzane Cavour, we made a brief stop in Chiesa Parrocchiale di Maria Vergine del Carmine, a small church, but a good place for an old man to catch his breath.
A few minutes later after a little huffing and puffing we were at the castle.
Sweeping views in literally every direction took our breath away (or it might have been the climb).
The one-time home of the Count of Cavour is situated in an ideal spot. There truly is not a bad view be found.
The castle houses the Enoteca Regionale Piemontese Cavour (Piemonte Regional Wine Cellar). This “Ethnographic Museum” includes several rooms that house a permanent museum which includes displays on truffles, rare articles relating to the local food and wine tradition, 17th and 19th-century kitchen settings, a distillery from the 1700’s, a cask-maker’s workshop, and rural life.” We paid €6 and entered. The first thing I saw were the stairs. Onward and upward.
We toured many of the rooms …
… and I found it mildly interesting.
The views were worth the admittance price.
It also houses a Michelin Star restaurant and some lovely foliage for Tracy.
It was a short 15-minute drive back to La Morra. On the walk from the parking lot to Rocche Costamagna, we stopped in a little store to purchase cheese, crackers and some of the most delicious prosciutto for that evening’s terrace pre-dinner soirée (we were fully stocked with vino).
After a 10-minute power nap, we freshened up and soon the six of us were enjoying the gorgeous views while nibbling on this great food.
I believe this is the most beautiful spot we’ve ever had for one of these “picnics,” and we have been blessed with many incredible spots. Well, it might tie with a place we’d stay within a week.
For dinner, nobody had to get the boot, because Osteria More e Macine restaurant was located within a block from the B&B.
We were led downstairs to a table located next to a bunch of wine boxes. As you might surmise, this is a casual restaurant.
Right up there with truffle-hunting dog Nira and the Buza bar waitress were the servers here. They deftly climbed and descended stairs (two or three at a time) serving the meals. I pulled a hamstring just watching them.
In a “When in La Morra” moment I ordered the risotto with white truffles for my appetizer (€2.85 per gram). They brought out my risotto with the scale and started shaving that baby as white truffles drifted down on my risotto. I might have been too captivated by this scene, because by the time I said “stop,” it had cost a few more bucks than I thought. It was at this time I was happy we split the bill (thanks guys). It was delicious.
Tracy started with an eggplant flan with a parmesan crisp and risotto with corn and bacon (we think it was just bacon bits, so were not overly impressed).
Other dishes included chicken, bacon and figs (in a brodo) …
… sliced veal …
…and sliced pork loin.
Even with my white truffles and three bottles of wine, the bill came out to €62.50 a couple.
Tomorrow, we’d explore more Piemonte hill towns. Along the way we’d hit a wine museum, the steepest streets this side of San Francisco, find ourselves on a road where we hoped no cars would be traveling in the opposite direction, make an unexpected stop to take photos of incredible rows of trees and take part in a photo shoot from a spot we’d been earlier in the day.
Before our terrace picnic, Tracy and I walked around a little bit of La Morra (it’s amazing she stays married to me). Our dinner would take me far outside my comfort zone … and it was worth taking the chance.
Next: DAY TWELVE - Roll Out The Barolo, Right Out Of Disney, Snow In Piemonte, A Hill Of A Climb, This Might Have Been A Mistake, 18-Wheeler Dead Ahead, It’s A Movie Set, Guided Tours Only, No Bra, A Poplar Spot and That’s Using Your Brain
Dec 29th, 2018, 06:34 AM
#156
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Wow. A perfect Piemonte day. Truffle hunting, incredible little churches, walking around Alba, good food, buying wine in an old church, a castle with a view and beautiful scenery everywhere. You had asked a couple of questions about La Casa del Trifulau but ended up not going there for your truffle hunt. Just curious if you tried to contact them. Looking forward to more.
Dec 29th, 2018, 09:26 AM
#158
Original Poster
"questions about La Casa del Trifulau but ended up not going there for your truffle hunt. Just curious if you tried to contact them."
Hi John, I sent them a request right after I got your info, but they had no dates available during our time there. Question: Did they use a Brittany Spaniel, or are other dogs used for hunting truffles?
td - Thanks!
Hi John, I sent them a request right after I got your info, but they had no dates available during our time there. Question: Did they use a Brittany Spaniel, or are other dogs used for hunting truffles?
td - Thanks!
Dec 29th, 2018, 10:32 AM
#159
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I'm sorry they didn't have any dates available for you but I'm glad you enjoyed your hunt with Nira - what a cute dog. I'm not sure what breed our dogs (Bella and her son Brio) were but they were not Brittany Spaniels. I agree that some people might find it a little hokey but we really enjoyed our time with Natale and Giorgio.
Here is a link to some of our truffle hunting pics I had uploaded several years ago: https://john183italy2012.shutterfly.com/pictures/1042
Here is a link to some of our truffle hunting pics I had uploaded several years ago: https://john183italy2012.shutterfly.com/pictures/1042
