TDudette

Continued Bravos, Tom.

I can't remember if I've asked this before but, do you have a favorite travel reference book? DH and I purchased the DK Eyewitness books then scoured the library for others. We felt we got good info but can't hold a candle to your research. What we missed in Milan was especially worrisome.

Macross

Tracy should write a travel cookbook. How does she stay so thin?

Dayle

tom, glad you recovered rather quickly and in time for a great dinner. You continue to tempt me with the food pics. Mouthwatering! The Bascilica di San Domenico does look so beautiful, even after so many churches! I now think Bologna is officially on the list for my next trip!

maitaitom

tdudette, I usually don't use guidebooks, although occasionally we'll get an Eyewitness Guide or Rick Steves small Snapshot book of an area. I rely mostly on scouring the internet. Google is your friend.

Macross ... thin, we are not. and if you think that risotto had calories, you should see what she's whipping up today. I might not live until Christmas.

Dayle, I was really looking forward to Bologna, and it exceeded my expectations, as did everywhere we traveled, and I had high expectations to begin with. We did not have a bad dinner at one restaurant, and a few were exceptional. I think you'll get a kick out of the place we went to in Bologna the night we day-tripped to Padova in the next chapter. Now back to writing it There are some phenomenal pics, too (mostly courtesy of Kim and Tracy).

bniemand

For TDudette and anyone looking for a guidebook for the Emilia Romagna area, I found (on Amazon) "Northern Italy Emilia Romagna Including Bologna" by a company called Bradt. It goes into much more detail for each city than the Fodor's Italy book.

TDudette

Thanks, Tom and bniemand.

primativo

hi tom, fantastic trip report. Im salivating. I was wondering if you had any recommendation for tours you researched? “might have added an extra day to go on a parmesan, balsamic vinegar and prosciutto making tour I read about. I hope to make it back to Bologna.” Thank you!!!

Gwendolynn

Hotel tip for Bologna - Some years ago my husband and I were planning a trip to Italy and wanted to revisit Bologna. Must have been big conventions in town because there were few hotel rooms. (This was before Airbnb). I found a room at the Baglioni. $349, well beyond our usual budget. But we were getting older and my husband said... what the hell, take it. The hotel must have been sold out for there was only one "room" left for us. A suite. I will never be the same. It was next to the suite Princess Diana stayed in. Breakfast was out of this world.

So... you pays your money and youse take your chances !

bilboburgler

Bradt or Blue guide are pretty good for Italy and of course the enormous Rough Guide (they do do subsets)

maitaitom

Here is our long day in Padova...link below...

https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...lating-padova/

For the story without photos (unedited with more spelling and punctuation errors for your reading pleasure) ... you can read it below.. If you haven't been to Padova (at least for a day trip). you are missing something. From Giotto's frescoes at the Cappella degli Scrovegni (15 minutes of beauty) to a giant horse in Palazzo della Ragione to one of the most beautiful basilicas we've seen (Basilica di Sant’Antonio) to lots more, Padova's got it. And, back in Bologna, we enjoyed one of the most memorable meals on any of our trips (sadly without Tracy).

CHAPTER SEVEN - PERAMBULATING PADOVA

Next: DAY SEVEN - This Station’s Not So Hard, Stabilizing The Microclimate, Giotto Cycle, Get Off Your High Horse, Churches And More Churches, Astronomical Timing, Did It Really Say No Photos?, The Sculptor’s House, Chill Out, Down For The Count (Part Due), Dinner At The Drug Store, Dining With A Unique Owner & Where’s Agent 86?

It was time to get out of town, albeit just for the day. Up very early, we hopped in the taxi Rocco had ordered for us, and in a few minutes were at Bologna Centrale for our 7:16 a.m. train ride to Padova, who some believe is the oldest city in Italy.

I had read some reports that Bologna’s train station is difficult to navigate. It isn’t. Signage was good, although the coffee wasn’t. Ninety minutes after we departed, we were in Padova.


It would be a straight shot from Padova’s train station to our first destination, the Giotto fresco-laden Cappella degli Scrovegni. We stopped by a hip coffee shop along the way, where we had some delicious pastries and croissants (don’t worry Walter, the croissants weren’t as good as yours).


We had a 10:30 entry time for the Cappella degli Scrovegni. However since we were early we checked out the Archaeological Museum at Civic Museum Agli Eremitani.


We hung out here for about 20 minutes before heading over to the Scrovegni chapel. This place landed on my “must see” list after seeing a Rick Steves’ show on Padua that incorporated footage of this chapel. I booked my reservation long in advance to make sure we didn’t miss it (no same day reservations are allowed anymore, I was told).


Only 25 people are allowed in at a time, and, similar to The Last Supper, you only have 15 minutes to stare in awe at the 14th-century frescoes by Giotto when you enter. Before entering the chapel, we watched a short movie about Cappella degli Scrovegni, which is the “time needed to stabilize the interior microclimate.”


Before going into the chapel, on the left is the Tomb of Enrico Scrovegni and other statues by Giovanni Pisano.

You talk about a “Wow” factor … entering the Cappella degli Scrovegni is just that. Giotto’s frescoes on the blue wall pop out larger than life, and the chapel is covered with them. They were painted between 1303 and 1305 and are remarkable to witness in person.


The panels depict the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary.



The Last Judgement once again reminded me of an El Bosco painting with “the damned” being dragged and thrown into Hell.



Also a tad weird is the depiction of “Envy,” one of the 14 monochrome allegories of Vices and Virtues. This allegory shows a female figure being bitten by a snake coming out of her mouth. She was not wearing a garter.


The 15 minutes goes by quickly. This is another of those places that has to be seen in person for the full experience. If you are lucky enough to visit, the docent told Mary that early in the morning or late in the afternoon is the best time to view the room, as the sun shines through the windows and glints off the golden halos.


Nearby the chapel is the Chiesa deli Erememitani, where one of Padova’s worst tragedies occurred. In March 1944 the church was completely destroyed by Allied bombs because of its close proximity to German headquarters. Many consider this event as Italy’s most prolific artistic wartime loss.


Amazingly it has been restored and looks similar to when it was originally constructed.


The biggest loss were the frescoes of Andrea Mantegna. Only a corner of the Ovetari Chapel has any remnants of them.

The Madonna with the Child (below left) was sculpted by Bonino da Campioneon and is above the tomb of Umberto da Carrara.

We walked for a while before I took a photo of what I thought was the Palazzo della Ragione. It was actually the Palazzo Moroni, which Tracy said could be named after me. Luckily, I don’t speak Italian.


By now Padova was rocking with people as we entered the center of town and the Piazza delle Erbe. Market stalls were cranking, and the energy was electric. Yes, we had hit Saturday market day.


In front of us stood the actual (who’s the Moroni now?), constructed in the 13th century and enlarged in the 14th century. Upstairs, we entered il Salone, which just so happens to be one of the largest medieval halls in the world.


The magnificent floor to ceiling frescoes “represent the influxes of stars on men's activities and life.” I was confused because I didn’t see a fresco of Tom Hanks. This happens to be “one of the very few complete zodiac cycles to survive until modern times.”


The frescoes are so beautiful that at first I didn’t notice a huge horse standing proudly in the hall. A horse is a horse, of course, of course, but this horse took a steady course.


This gigantic wooden equine was the work of Donatello. The original (with a guy riding it) is located on the Piazza del Santo. We were happy this one had found a stable environment, and it was met with unbridled enthusiasm by those who passed by.


’s roof is also interesting. It resembles an upside down hull of a ship. The palace was once the seat of Padova’s government.


Starving, we wanted to have lunch at the famed Caffè Pedrocchi, one of Padova’s historical landmarks. It opened in 1831, and at the time boasted it was the largest cafe in the world. Unfortunately, everyone else in Padova wanted to eat there, too.


Instead we walked to see what some call “the oldest clock in the world.” In between the Palazzo dei Camerlenghi and the Palazzo del Capitanio is the 15th-century astronomical clock. It replaced one from the 1300s that was destroyed. The clock not only marks hours and minutes, but also the month, day and the phases of the moon.


By now, our appetite was astronomical. But unfortunately our lunch was probably the worst we had in Italy. It wasn’t bad, but by now we were certified food snobs. "Perfection, baby … we demand perfection.”


There was still more to see in Padova, and not surprisingly most were churches. The Basilica Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta was completed in 1754.


Being a Presbyterian, I had to check out the Presbytery.


The modern pulpit on the left is from 1996.




This statue is of Christ being baptized.




Saint Gregorio Giovanni Gaspare Barbarigo was a cardinal who served as the bishop of Padova in the 17th century.


He died in 1697 and was canonized in 1960 by Pope John XXIII.


It was time to move on before we caught the train back to Bologna.


It’s not hard to know when you reach Basilica di Sant’Antonio, because in the nearby plaza stood Donatello’s original Equestrian Statue of Gattamelata, whose real name was Erasmo of Narni. Narni was an Italian military leader.


Travels With Mai Tai Tom Fun Fact: Gattamelata’s meaning is “speckled cat.”



We decided not to stirrup any trouble and walked inside.

We had been told about the beauty of Basilica di Sant’Antonio, but it blew us away on first glance. Works of gorgeous art filled the church dedicated to Padua's patron Saint Anthony, known as “Il Santo.” He died in 1231, and the church was completed in 1307.


I thought we could take a hundred photos here, until Kim pointed out that no photos were allowed. I pretended to be deaf. Tracy had not seen the sign, so at least she had an excuse to be a scofflaw, but only for a few minutes.


The “photography police” were out in force, but I did manage to take a photo of The Relics of Saint Anthony. The entire place was overwhelmingly beautiful.


Tracy took a shot of one of the chapels before being alerted to the no photos rule …

… and some of the church’s incredible art.


Finally, however, the jig was up when I got “The Look” from one of the photo police. Tracy had the same thing happen to her.


In any event, Basilica di Sant’Antonio impressed us as much or more than Cappella degli Scrovegni earlier in the day.


Outside stalls were selling their wares.


Nearby the basilica is Donatello’s house.


By now, the day was fairly sweltering, meaning Tracy’s chills were not a good thing. We pressed onward toward the Prato della Vallej, the the largest square in Italy (and one of Europe’s largest squares). We took a few photos here, and our goal was to find a UNESCO site, the world’s first botanical gardens, Orto Botanical.


We wandered for a bit and obviously we were nearby, but Tracy wasn’t in the mood for much walking by now. so we never found the Orto Botanical. We did pass over a canal, however.

Nearby was our last stop of the day, and a place where Tracy could take a seat. I didn’t want to kill her this early in the trip, especially as she is the official “scribe” of Travels With Mai Tai Tom, so we stepped inside Abbazia di Santa Giustina, a Benedictine monastery that goes all the way back to the 19th century.


This is one of the largest churches in the world. It’s supported by 26 gigantic columns and contains 26 chapels. It also has a lot of dead saints.


The Cappella della Pietà contains the work of Filippo Parodfi in 1689. “The artist took charge of the architectural, decorative and sculptural design including the ceiling, adorned by an angelic stucco crown. In the center is the Pietà, surrounded by two statues of Mary Magdalene and John the Apostle.”


The High Altar is crafted with “fine inlays of marble on which are placed pieces of mother-of-pearl, coral, lapis lazuli, carnelian, pearls and other precious materials. The delicate work was carried out between 1637 and 1643 by Pietro Paolo Corbarelli designed by Giovan Battista Nigetti, brother of the famous Matteo Nigetti. On 7 October 1627, with great pomp, the body of Saint Justine was placed under the altar. The painting of the altarpiece The martyrdom of Saint Justine by Paolo Veronese oil on canvas from 1576.”


This altar houses the tomb containing the remains of the second bishop of Padua, Saint Maximus.


La cappella del Santissimo Sacramento is “dedicated to the Blessed Sacrament. The chapel contained the relics of the Innocent Saints. The ceiling is decorated with frescoes depicting angels and apostles worshiping the Blessed Sacrament.”

Cappella di San Lucca contains the relics of St. Luke The Evangelist.


Finally we saw the Chapel for Pope Gregory I. He is somewhere in the painting.


We caught a quick taxi back to the train station and could have caught an earlier train, but an unsmiling official told us we had the wrong type of tickets to do that (foreshadowing alert).


We arrived in Bologna a little before 6, and Tracy said she would be unable to join us for dinner. She went to bed right away and slept for 14 hours. Our dinner reservations that evening were not until 8:30 at a restaurant is housed in what was once a drug store. And oh what a crazy fun and delicious dinner it turns out to be.

Rocco told me Drogheria Della Rosa was his favorite restaurant in Bologna, and he had made reservations for us at the beginning of September, weeks before we arrived. And reservations were needed … both the inside and outside patio was packed on this Saturday night.

Owner Emanuele Addone is ever-present, and he seated us at our outdoor table. We had been told in advance that it might be a little unusual to dine here, and that is correct.


Kim, Mary and I were served an amuse bouche paired with a glass of white wine. Shortly thereafter, the owner came over to to our table and recited what was being served on this night. No menu. Due to the fact our “scribe” was down for the evening, we have no written notes of what we actually ate on this evening. Rumor has it that copious amounts of wine consumption might have been a culprit. We do have a few photos of our dinners, however,

Basically the owner ordered for Mary, who had given him the option to select our meal, while Kim and I ordered our own. The owner left, but for for long. He returned with a bottle of red wine, which he poured for us, but instead of leaving he plopped down in the empty chair and started talking with us.


While he was inquiring in a soft voice about Kim and Mary’s kids, suddenly he jumped up from his chair and talked (ok, he might have yelled) quite loudly to one of the waiters, with whom he seemed displeased. Just as quickly, he sat back down and started talking with us in a soft, friendly voice. He poured another glass of wine for us, and then left the table … with the wine.


After our appetizer, as we were chatting, the owner was back with a different bottle of wine, pouring each of us another glass, and once again sitting down to chat. During our nearly two hours dining, he sat with us for about half the time. It was an experience certainly none of us would forget.


Oh yeah … the bill? I had read online that this was an expensive restaurant. We had never seen a menu, so we had no idea what the meal would cost. We each had an appetizer and main course, plus by the end of the evening an uncountable amount of excellent wine. “Well, I hope it’s under a couple hundred euros,” I said.


To say we were flabbergasted when we got the bill would be an understatement. A night of delectable food, incredible wine and sensational conversation cost all of €40 apiece. Incredible, and I don’t know where those reviewers could have a meal, terrific wine and an experience for less than this.


We walked back through another of Bologna’s stupendous porticos, until I was taken aback by the sign on a building. I turned to Kim and said, “Would you believe?” I was about to call Maxwell Smart and Agent 99 when I saw this sign for KAOS. Instead of it being an evil international organization, I think this KAOS was a clothing store.


The three of us got to bed late, with the only sound in the apartment a slightly snoring Tracy.


Tomorrow we’d contemplate walking through miles of porticos to see a religious site high on a hill overlooking Bologna. After lunch at a place that had been highly recommended, we’d walk around Bologna and finally ride up an elevator that seemed not to be in the greatest working condition. Fortunately, the views were worth it.


For dinner, we’d decide to do something a little different … and it worked out perfectly.


CHAPTER EIGHT - THE FOOLS ON THE HILL

Next: This Ain’t Your NYC Eataly, Taxi Time, A Mass Of People, Tell Me If You Like The View, The Train Has Stopped Running, Da Nello, You Have One Hour, San Francesco Open Your Giant Doors, I Doubt OSHA Would Have Approved Of This, We’ve Got The Meat and Dinner With A View

yestravel

Padua, outside of Scovegni chapel, is an undiscovered treasure. We spent several days there and truly enjoyed exploring the town. We did what's called a "double turn" to view the chapel. During the time between the 2 time slots we were alone in the chapel and it was unreal.

tomarkot

Maitaitom, we're remiss in our replies, but not in our admiration of your phenomenal report. We're reading and thoroughly enjoying your beautiful photos and entertaining prose on your website. The only downside for us is that we long to get back to Italia for the incredible art all over, and salivate for the food! Thanks for your great TR!

maitaitom

YT - we stayed two nights in Padua in 1996 and day-tripped to Venice. On that trip I was oblivious to the many things Padua had to offer. I'm so happy I had the opportunity to return.

tomarkot - Thanks. Even with all the food we devoured, 10-12 miles of walking meant we didn't gain a pound ... but oh how I miss some of those pasta dishes (especially the white truffles when we go to La Morra). Looking forward to your Spain report.

TDudette

What tomarkot wrote!

Adelaidean

We passed Padua on our way to Venice and realised later we had missed another gem....

Your photos and narrative always enjoyable and informative.

Treesa

Tom, thanks for this fabulous Padova chapter. I was scolded by a priest while taking pictures inside of Il Santo's church. He really gave me a tongue lashing that left me speechless. If you enjoyed Padova I'd like to see your take on Ravenna's mosaics.

TDudette

And, after you see Ravenna, go to Monreale in Sicily!

Dayle

Wow and Wow. I guess Padua is on the list too. I'm going to need Walter to make me reservations for all these wonderful restaurants he recommends. The former farmacia and owner sounds delightful! I want to go!

maitaitom

Although we had two nights left, this was our last full day exploring Bologna. Link with photos below ... full story if you don't want photos below that.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...s-on-the-hill/



CHAPTER EIGHT: THE FOOLS ON THE HILL

Next: This Ain’t Your NYC Eataly, Taxi Time, A Mass Of People, Tell Me If You Like The View, No Taxis, Da Nello, You Have One Hour, San Francesco Open Your Giant Doors, I Doubt OSHA Would Have Approved Of This, We’ve Got The Meat (And Cheese) and Dinner With A View

Sunday morning … and the streets of Bologna were empty, except for four people in search of a latte. Amazingly, after 14 hours of deep sleep, Tracy was feeling fine.

After wandering around finding virtually nothing open, we happened upon Eataly. The four of us loved our time at Eataly in New York City back in 2011, but this store was disappointing.
We left and found a little cafe where we had our requisite croissants and pastries. I hope there’s still some bread left after our visit to Bologna.

Our plan for the day was to take a taxi to the Arco Del Meloncello, which at first I thought was a melon liqueur. In fact, the Arco el Meloncello is a Rococo structure erected in1732, and a place where we might start our two-kilometer walk through the portico (the portico is the longest in the world … 4 km … if you start at the beginning back in Bologna) up to our destination of Santuario di Madonna di San Luca. It’s located on the top of Monte della Guardia.

Mai Tai Tom Fun Fact: Coincidentally, from the beginning of the portico back in Bologna to the Santuario di Madonna di San Luca, there are 666 arches along the way. I assume that must be a devil of a walk.

We asked our taxi driver if it was a steep walk, and he replied, “Si, it’s pretty steep.” In a moment of pure laziness, we had our driver take us to the top. Maybe we’d walk down. As we drove alongside the portico, it didn’t look as beautiful as I had envisioned when I read about them. We were all glad we drove.

The18th-century Santuario di Madonna di San Luca is quite a sight to behold at first glance.

It was a glorious day, and we walked toward the church. Looking down the portico the looks on some of the faces made me happy we chose the taxi.

Stepping inside the church we ran into a mass of people celebrating Mass.

We stopped in the back and took a few photos, until we read a sign with the words and accompanying camera with a line through it. Well, at least I got a couple.

For a few extra Euro, you could climb to the top to take photos. These days I always have to take a quick look to see how narrow the passageway is because of the fun blood thinners I take. I worried about scraping my hands against the wall, so after seeing the winding, narrow path I deferred to the other three to climb so my hands didn’t look like they’d been through a meat-grinder. Getting old sucks sometimes.

I stayed and watched Mass, as the others climbed to the top to take some photos of the surrounding countryside.

Our taxi driver had told us we might have trouble coming back because there was a big soccer game and the streets were blocked off. We thought about walking, but were told that a tram was on its way. Hunger trumped walking the portico, and we took the tram that plopped us at the Piazza Maggiore.

In the alley behind our AirBnb we had seen a patio that we believed was part of a restaurant so we walked the short distance over to it. To my amazement, this wasn’t just any restaurant, but a place called Da Nello, that I had read quite a bit about on the travel board. The patio was empty so I thought we’d easily secure a table here at about 12:30.

When I asked if we could sit down, the greeter said we could eat there, but we’d have to be out in exactly one hour, because they were sold out. No problema.

We were lead downstairs to a labyrinth of room, and the restaurant was jammed. Business was booming.

Lunch was very, very good including my pasta with tomato, Kim’s grilled chicken with mashed potatoes, Mary’s porcini mushroom flan and Tracy’s insalata mista with fennel and radish, plus a cuppa d’orzo.

We got out of there at 1:30 and stopped by the apartment to do a little laundry since our next church (yes, there are more) didn’t open until 3 p.m.

At little before 3 p.m., we headed toward Basilica San Francesco, with directions from the Monument to Ugo Bassi, a Roman Catholic priest who “traveled all over Italy preaching and tending the poor.” For all his good efforts, he was executed by a firing squad in 1849. (Check your friend Google for “the rest of the story.”)

Basilica San Francesco was built in the13th century by, not coincidentally, the Franciscans. It’s been called “one of the most beautiful examples of Gothic architecture in northern Italy.”

One of the highlights is a marble altar-piece that was sculpted by Venetians Jacobello and Pier Paolo dalle Masegne. Sculpted at the end of the 14th century, it depicts the “happenings of St. Francis” and “the figures of the Virgin and of the Eternal Father surrounded by saints and prophets.”

We visited a few tombs …

… and wandered for a bit.

We walked back to take a few more pictures of Le Due Torri …

… but first caught another glimpse of the 16th-century La Fontana Vecchia (The Old Fountain) that we had walked by often. It can be found on the side of one of the walls of the Palazzo D’Accursio on Via Ugo Bassi.


It was busy around here because the street is pedestrian only on the weekends, so there were a lot of people strolling about. By the way, “Libertas” represents the city of Bologna, and the fountain still works after all these years.


Mary ran into an old friend, Peppa Pig, a British preschool animated television character, who Kim and Mary’s youngest grandchild likes. For just a minute, they hogged the street.

We headed back to our first Bologna stop, Basilica di San Petronio, but not to check out its interior (although we did walk through it to reach our appointed destination).


On the backside of the basilica is an elevator that takes you up to La Terrazza Panoramica. Since 2015 people have been riding an elevator to a terrace above the basilica where one gets a great panoramic view of “the red city.” Before going up, however, we had to pay €3 and sign a liability waiver. “I wonder why they do that?” I asked. In a matter of moments I got my answer.


Tracy and Mary had already ridden this bad boy to the top with a previous group, so Kim and I hopped on the next ride up. It was a freight elevator with an operator who had a devious grin on his face.


As we neared the top, the elevator shook pretty good, causing more than a couple of gasps from yours truly. The operator’s grin was even bigger now. I hadn’t been this happy getting off an Italian means of transportation since the infamous “Bucket of Bolts” in Gubbio back in 2005. Kim got quite a kick out of my ultimate fear of crashing in an elevator.


From their smiles, so did a few others

The views over Bologna and the countryside were beautiful.

We took in the view from many directions.

Meanwhile a group people with hardhats appeared. I didn’t see any caves, so I asked someone what they were up to. It seems that the basilica offers a tour into the belfry.

It reminded me of the tour we took at Salisbury Cathedral back in 2013.

Back on terra firma after a relatively smooth ride down, we discussed dinner. We decided instead of a restaurant, to explore one those narrow lanes and go in search of meat and cheese (we’d already hit a nearby grocery to pick up some fruit) and have a picnic on our AirBnb patio (you have to save money somewhere).

The cheese and meat shops were heavenly, and prosciutto was calling my name.

We stopped in a couple of shops, and the price for all these goodies was insanely inexpensive.

Strolling down the street, we saw more cool shops and a cool restaurant or ten. “What a livable city,” I thought.

Back at our apartment, Tracy and Mary made some elegant platters and out on the patio we celebrated Bologna with a picnic fit for a King.

It made for a perfect ending for our last full day in Bologna. As the sun set, we looked out at the beautiful Cattedrale Matropolitana di San Pietro.

Tomorrow we’d be hopping on another early morning train for our planned day trip to Ravenna, where mosaics take center stage.

Our day in Ravenna would take us to some of the more remarkable sights we’ve seen on any trip. Although we knew the mosaics in this town were its claim to fame, in person they were mesmerizing. We visited a number of the town’s spots that contain these incredible pieces of art, some that date back more than 1,500 years. Simply incredible!

Next - CHAPTER NINE - THE STUNNING MOSAICS OF RAVENNA

Next: Day Nine - A Case of the Benz, That’s The Ticket, A UNESCO Beauty, Of All the Galla, The Neon Bishop, I’ll Have 10 Orders of Ravioli Please, Where’s Steve Martin, Monument To A Poet, Fish n The Crypt, Falling For Tracy, Saved By The Umbrella, Some Good Deeds Are Not Punished, A Rainy Night In Bologna and Unintended Candlelight Dinner

Adelaidean

Always happy to find another instalment....