We Still Didn’t Drink All The Vino: Mai Tai Tom’s 2018 Return To Italy
Nov 19th, 2018, 05:00 PM
#62
We get some great flights to Milan that are cheap. I need to really think about it. Your pictures are beautiful.
I love your trip reports btw. So easy to read. Thank you for taking the time to post for us.
I love your trip reports btw. So easy to read. Thank you for taking the time to post for us.
Nov 20th, 2018, 12:04 AM
#63
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Alitalia often has (relatively) cheap business class fares to Milan. We sometimes take economy eastbound and business back, so we can get a decent night's sleep going home. Alitalia's business class lounge at JFK has a wonderful buffet, their on-board meal service is great, and their business class seats lie flat.
Nov 20th, 2018, 06:49 PM
#66
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The Bosco Verticale is amazing and is being copied in several places in Europe, inc Zug and Lausanne here in Switzerland. But a friend from Milan (who goes home every three weeks to the family apartment in the Brera district) says that many of the apartments belong to multi-millionaires who are almost never there, so it has a weird empty vibe.
Nov 21st, 2018, 01:06 AM
#67
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bvlenci, That cemetery info is quite amazing. I have never heard of that practice before.
In many ways, an Italian cemetery reminds me a lot of an Etruscan necropolis. Here is a photo of a typical wall of loculi. Most cemeteries also have private chapels, like those in the monumental cemetery, and often also have a space for those who prefer to be buried in the ground.
Nov 21st, 2018, 07:01 AM
#68
You'll find these ossuaries all over Catholic Europe, with some villages buildings chapels out the things, I've seen it in Spain, Italy (so many in Italy), France etc. There is only so much space in the ground and bones often survive and survive. For example the Otranto chapel is especially famous, but even in little villages, while even in the Vatican you'll find the odd pope lying around.
Nov 22nd, 2018, 01:02 AM
#69
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When I said comunal ossuaries, I didn't mean chapels with bones displayed. In a normal Italian cemetery, they're out of sight, probably underground.
Another interesting thing is that most cemeteries in Italy are owned and managed by the town government, not by churches or private organizations. They sell burial spaces to the public.
One of the costs of upkeep of graves is the electricity bill, because the loculi have a little light at each grave. If you don't pay the light bill, your dearly beloved will be fast-tracked to the ossuary.
My husband says that our kitchen looks like a cemetery at night because of the little lights on appliances and chargers.
Another interesting thing is that most cemeteries in Italy are owned and managed by the town government, not by churches or private organizations. They sell burial spaces to the public.
One of the costs of upkeep of graves is the electricity bill, because the loculi have a little light at each grave. If you don't pay the light bill, your dearly beloved will be fast-tracked to the ossuary.
My husband says that our kitchen looks like a cemetery at night because of the little lights on appliances and chargers.
Last edited by bvlenci; Nov 22nd, 2018 at 01:08 AM.
Nov 23rd, 2018, 07:00 AM
#70
Original Poster
Link to entire report with photos below:
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...tling-bologna/
DAY FIVE - Kim Gets Shafted, Fascist Train Station, Bologna’s Patron Saint, Do You Believe In Magi?, Markets Galore, Pasta … We Got Pasta, Going To Neptune, Peculiar Church, Church Or Store, Slippery Horse Stairs, Apertivo Time, Checking Out The AirBnB, Rocco Rocks, On My Own, I Might Not Climb That, You Can’t Fight City Hall, Bella Bologna, Hail Cesari, Family Affair, Best Steak In Italy … Ever and The Golden Arches
We took an early morning train to Bologna from Milan after a slight elevator mishap. The train station in Milan is an interesting one.
In Bologna, it was a busy morning and early afternoon before getting into our spectacular Airbnb located virtually across the street from Piazza Maggiore. We started off at Basilica di San Petronio, the sixth largest church in Europe, which includes the largest meridian line in the world. There are numerous incredible chapels.
We had lunch at a fresh pasta restaurant that was magnicfico. I had never had risotto like that before Before getting to our apartment, the four of us visited a church that is really a bunch of churches all in one, and a famed art piece in another church.
The colorful streets of this town have something for everybody when it comes to food.
Then we hit the Palazzo Maggiore again, and the Palazzo d’Accursio, Bologna’s symbol of political power, where we'd be involved (sort of) in another wedding.
Our AirBnb was incredible (and inexpensive), and our dinner at Da Cesari was delectable, fun and informative. It was a great first day in Bella Bologna.
We would spend five nights in Bologna (with day trips to Padova and Ravenna). Bologna quickly became one of my favorite towns in Italy, and the food ... oh my!!!
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...tling-bologna/
DAY FIVE - Kim Gets Shafted, Fascist Train Station, Bologna’s Patron Saint, Do You Believe In Magi?, Markets Galore, Pasta … We Got Pasta, Going To Neptune, Peculiar Church, Church Or Store, Slippery Horse Stairs, Apertivo Time, Checking Out The AirBnB, Rocco Rocks, On My Own, I Might Not Climb That, You Can’t Fight City Hall, Bella Bologna, Hail Cesari, Family Affair, Best Steak In Italy … Ever and The Golden Arches
We took an early morning train to Bologna from Milan after a slight elevator mishap. The train station in Milan is an interesting one.
In Bologna, it was a busy morning and early afternoon before getting into our spectacular Airbnb located virtually across the street from Piazza Maggiore. We started off at Basilica di San Petronio, the sixth largest church in Europe, which includes the largest meridian line in the world. There are numerous incredible chapels.
We had lunch at a fresh pasta restaurant that was magnicfico. I had never had risotto like that before Before getting to our apartment, the four of us visited a church that is really a bunch of churches all in one, and a famed art piece in another church.
The colorful streets of this town have something for everybody when it comes to food.
Then we hit the Palazzo Maggiore again, and the Palazzo d’Accursio, Bologna’s symbol of political power, where we'd be involved (sort of) in another wedding.
Our AirBnb was incredible (and inexpensive), and our dinner at Da Cesari was delectable, fun and informative. It was a great first day in Bella Bologna.
We would spend five nights in Bologna (with day trips to Padova and Ravenna). Bologna quickly became one of my favorite towns in Italy, and the food ... oh my!!!
Nov 23rd, 2018, 03:44 PM
#74
Original Poster
Nov 24th, 2018, 07:41 AM
#79
Original Poster
"Was 5 nights a good length of time for Bologna?"
With a couple of day trips, it was just about perfect. I might have added an extra day to go on a parmesan, balsamic vinegar and prosciutto making tour I read about. I hope to make it back to Bologna. I could easily spend more time there. Loved the vibe of the city. If I go back, I might just hang out in one of those cafes along one of the narrow streets. The cheese and meat shops were amazing. We have some more photos of those in one of the next installments.
With a couple of day trips, it was just about perfect. I might have added an extra day to go on a parmesan, balsamic vinegar and prosciutto making tour I read about. I hope to make it back to Bologna. I could easily spend more time there. Loved the vibe of the city. If I go back, I might just hang out in one of those cafes along one of the narrow streets. The cheese and meat shops were amazing. We have some more photos of those in one of the next installments.
Nov 26th, 2018, 01:25 PM
#80
Original Poster
While I finish up Day 2 in Bologna, here's a recipe Tracy made after eating a similar dish in Orta San Giulio at La Motta restaurant and Bistrot Link with photos (including a couple from our spectacular b&b) below. (written by Tracy ..I only eat). Now back to finishing Bologna, Day 2.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/ris...ili-chocolate/
Risotto with Italian Blue Goat Cheese and Xocopili Chocolate
Category: Appetizer or Main Dish
We saved one of our best meals for last on our 2018 Italian trip. On our final night in Orta San Giulio, we enjoyed a stupendous risotto made with blue goat cheese, candied walnuts and shaved Xocopili chocolate (Risotto all’erborinato di capra della Val Vigezzo, cioccolato Xocopili e noci caramellate). Wow … was that good risotto!
We stayed at the incredible Bed & Breakfast Al Dom on the shores of Orta San Giulio with a private garden at the edge of the lake and views across to the L’Osola del Silenzio (Island of Silence). Below is our little Al Dom “picnic area.”
The town had some amazing dining spots including two Michelin Star restaurants. but I cannot imagine a dish better than the one we experienced at La Motta Restaurant & Bistrot (below photo from their website).
Our waiter explained that the “all’erborinato di capra della Val Vigezzo” is an Italian blue goat cheese from the Piedmont region. That cheese was sweet and creamy and nothing like we had ever tasted.
Returning home, I learned that Xocopili chocolate is “savory chocolate pearls, featuring the strong flavor of 72% Venezuelan cocoa infused with a subtle mix of chile, curry, espelette pepper and salt” which is shaved over the top of the risotto just before serving.
I asked for the risotto recipe, but only received a shrug in return, so this is my attempt at recreating this phenomenal risotto from La Motta Ristorante. Italian menus are vast … starting with the “antipasti,” followed by the “primi” (pastas), then the “secondi” (meat and fish), “contorini” (vegetables), and finally “dolci”(dessert). This risotto was in the “primi” portion of the menu at La Motta, but was so rich we did not have room for anything from the “secondi” portion as we had started with an “antipasti” and we needed to save room for the “dolci!” Long story short, you may want to serve it as a starter.
First, of course, we had to find the cheese and the chocolate. Just as we were about to resort to mail order, Tom stopped by our local Italian market (big shout out to Roma Italian Deli & Grocery) to pick up some carnaroli rice and they had the blue goat cheese too! A taste test revealed that the Italian blue goat cheese tasted similar to Dolce Gorgonzola which is also a milder, sweet Italian blue cheese but made with cow’s milk. The Dolce Gorgonzola may be easier to find in the market and would be an acceptable substitute.
We did find the Xocopili chocolate online, but it was $47! I decided to go with Lindt Dark Chocolate infused with spicy red chili.
As far as which risotto rice to use, Arborio is the most widely available risotto rice in the U.S., but I like carnaroli which, according to Fine Cooking, “is the preferred risotto rice in most regions in Italy except the Veneto” and “said to produce the creamiest risotto.” So when in Rome (or Orta San Giulio … or Pasadena), Carnaroli it is!
If you haven’t made risotto before, it is best to warm the broth first otherwise you are adding cold to something hot and that slows everything down. This recipe takes about 45 minutes to make and you really do need to stir it while it is cooking so that the rice rubs against each other generating starch which makes the risotto creamy. And, you need to add the broth one cup at a time, again to stimulate the rice to release starch … adding the broth all at once is just boiling rice (in my opinion). Don’t forget, you have the rest of that bottle of white wine to keep you busy while you stir!
Ingredients:
2 T. butter
2 shallots, diced
1 c. Carnaroli rice
1 c. dry white wine (at room temperature)
4 c. chicken stock
6 oz. Italian Blue Goat Cheese or Dolce gorgonzola (at room temperature)
16 toasted or candied walnut halves (about 4-5 halves per serving)
2 squares Lindt Dark Chocolate infused with spicy red chili (1/2 square shaved chocolate per serving)
4 slices prosciutto, fried until crispy for garnish (optional)
Directions:
Bring the broth to a simmer in a small pan and keep warm over low heat. In a large sauté pan over medium/medium high heat, melt the butter and sauté the shallots until just softened and translucent. Add the rice, stirring to coat with the butter and then pressing into a single layer and continue to sauté until slightly crunchy and translucent, do not over-cook.
Add the wine and stir until just absorbed. Add the broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring until just absorbed before adding the next cup of broth and repeat until the broth is gone. If the rice is not al dente by the time you run out of broth, add either an additional cup of broth or wine or if you don’t have either, water.
Remove from heat. Stir in the cheese until melted. Spoon into individual serving bowls. Add 4-5 walnut halves to each serving and sprinkle with ½ square shaved chocolate per bowl just before serving. Top with fried prosciutto (optional).
4 servings.
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/ris...ili-chocolate/
Risotto with Italian Blue Goat Cheese and Xocopili Chocolate
Category: Appetizer or Main Dish
We saved one of our best meals for last on our 2018 Italian trip. On our final night in Orta San Giulio, we enjoyed a stupendous risotto made with blue goat cheese, candied walnuts and shaved Xocopili chocolate (Risotto all’erborinato di capra della Val Vigezzo, cioccolato Xocopili e noci caramellate). Wow … was that good risotto!
We stayed at the incredible Bed & Breakfast Al Dom on the shores of Orta San Giulio with a private garden at the edge of the lake and views across to the L’Osola del Silenzio (Island of Silence). Below is our little Al Dom “picnic area.”
The town had some amazing dining spots including two Michelin Star restaurants. but I cannot imagine a dish better than the one we experienced at La Motta Restaurant & Bistrot (below photo from their website).
Our waiter explained that the “all’erborinato di capra della Val Vigezzo” is an Italian blue goat cheese from the Piedmont region. That cheese was sweet and creamy and nothing like we had ever tasted.
Returning home, I learned that Xocopili chocolate is “savory chocolate pearls, featuring the strong flavor of 72% Venezuelan cocoa infused with a subtle mix of chile, curry, espelette pepper and salt” which is shaved over the top of the risotto just before serving.
I asked for the risotto recipe, but only received a shrug in return, so this is my attempt at recreating this phenomenal risotto from La Motta Ristorante. Italian menus are vast … starting with the “antipasti,” followed by the “primi” (pastas), then the “secondi” (meat and fish), “contorini” (vegetables), and finally “dolci”(dessert). This risotto was in the “primi” portion of the menu at La Motta, but was so rich we did not have room for anything from the “secondi” portion as we had started with an “antipasti” and we needed to save room for the “dolci!” Long story short, you may want to serve it as a starter.
First, of course, we had to find the cheese and the chocolate. Just as we were about to resort to mail order, Tom stopped by our local Italian market (big shout out to Roma Italian Deli & Grocery) to pick up some carnaroli rice and they had the blue goat cheese too! A taste test revealed that the Italian blue goat cheese tasted similar to Dolce Gorgonzola which is also a milder, sweet Italian blue cheese but made with cow’s milk. The Dolce Gorgonzola may be easier to find in the market and would be an acceptable substitute.
We did find the Xocopili chocolate online, but it was $47! I decided to go with Lindt Dark Chocolate infused with spicy red chili.
As far as which risotto rice to use, Arborio is the most widely available risotto rice in the U.S., but I like carnaroli which, according to Fine Cooking, “is the preferred risotto rice in most regions in Italy except the Veneto” and “said to produce the creamiest risotto.” So when in Rome (or Orta San Giulio … or Pasadena), Carnaroli it is!
If you haven’t made risotto before, it is best to warm the broth first otherwise you are adding cold to something hot and that slows everything down. This recipe takes about 45 minutes to make and you really do need to stir it while it is cooking so that the rice rubs against each other generating starch which makes the risotto creamy. And, you need to add the broth one cup at a time, again to stimulate the rice to release starch … adding the broth all at once is just boiling rice (in my opinion). Don’t forget, you have the rest of that bottle of white wine to keep you busy while you stir!
Ingredients:
2 T. butter
2 shallots, diced
1 c. Carnaroli rice
1 c. dry white wine (at room temperature)
4 c. chicken stock
6 oz. Italian Blue Goat Cheese or Dolce gorgonzola (at room temperature)
16 toasted or candied walnut halves (about 4-5 halves per serving)
2 squares Lindt Dark Chocolate infused with spicy red chili (1/2 square shaved chocolate per serving)
4 slices prosciutto, fried until crispy for garnish (optional)
Directions:
Bring the broth to a simmer in a small pan and keep warm over low heat. In a large sauté pan over medium/medium high heat, melt the butter and sauté the shallots until just softened and translucent. Add the rice, stirring to coat with the butter and then pressing into a single layer and continue to sauté until slightly crunchy and translucent, do not over-cook.
Add the wine and stir until just absorbed. Add the broth, 1 cup at a time, stirring until just absorbed before adding the next cup of broth and repeat until the broth is gone. If the rice is not al dente by the time you run out of broth, add either an additional cup of broth or wine or if you don’t have either, water.
Remove from heat. Stir in the cheese until melted. Spoon into individual serving bowls. Add 4-5 walnut halves to each serving and sprinkle with ½ square shaved chocolate per bowl just before serving. Top with fried prosciutto (optional).
4 servings.
