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Umbria Restaurants and Must Sees Towns

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Old May 10th, 2010, 12:59 PM
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Umbria Restaurants and Must Sees Towns

Hello fellow fodorites...my husband and I are, god willing, off to Umbria next month for about 12 days....we will be in Orvieto for one night on each end of our trip and then we will be staying at Le Case Gialle, which I believe is near Bevagna and Montefalco. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind sharing some of your favorite restaurants and places that you visited. On the one hand I'd like to play our meals by ear so we can be spontaneous in terms of locations we visit each day, but as we will be there the last two weeks in June, I would think that we probably will need reservations so we are not disappointed??? If you would share your experiences and thoughts I would greatly appreciate it. I think we will mostly be looking for lunch places, as we may end up back at Le Case Gialle most evenings, but not sure.

Many, many thanks.
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Old May 10th, 2010, 02:38 PM
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Here's a discussion of places, restaurants and sights near Bevagna, the closest town to Le Case Gialle. www/slowtalk.com/groupee/forums/a/tpc/f/862600685/m/861008230001

The Piano Grande, Casteluccio and Norcia are great targets for a daytrip--we had a delicious simple lunch in a small place in Norcia--grilled meats and lentil soup.

BTW-You will have your hands (and mouths full) just trying to keep up with the daily bread deliveries at LCG--we enjoy getting creative with the local products and making nightly bruschetta. And don't forget to sample the local wines--love the very affordable rosso!
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Old May 10th, 2010, 02:38 PM
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I really liked Assisi. And my best gnocchi w/ gorgonzola sauce was there at MedioEvo restaurant... 7 months later, I still think about it.

www.ristorantemedioevoassisi.it
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Old May 10th, 2010, 03:01 PM
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Ristorante Umbria in Todi. Wonderful views from their terrace. Closed Tuesdays.
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Old May 10th, 2010, 04:40 PM
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We will be staying at Le Case Gialle on July 1&2 ...will you still be there? We are going to take suggestions from the owners as to where to eat.
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Old May 10th, 2010, 04:40 PM
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We will be staying at Le Case Gialle on July 1&2 ...will you still be there? We are going to take suggestions from the owners as to where to eat.
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Old May 10th, 2010, 09:35 PM
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In Bevagna, Ottavius restaurant. Delicious gnocchi in Umbrian Sangrantino wine sauce, grilled meats.
In Montefalco, L'Alchemista restaurant - everything is delicious.
Agree that Piano Grande is a marvelous and unique drive and Norcia a great place to sample the area's pork products.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 01:48 AM
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If you are going to Montefalco, the destination restaurant is Coccorone, which is actually rated as one of the very finest in Umbria. A unique and delicious dish to have there is a risotto made with Montefalco's great wine, Sagrantino.

http://www.coccorone.com/

L'Alchemista is a great place to sample olive oil. While in Montefalco, if you are interested in art, the town's small museum (formerly a church) is richly frescoed with works by Gozzoli.

The Piano Grande is one of Italy's grandest natural sights.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 05:11 AM
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Wonderful suggestions...thank you so much to all. Do you think we should reserve before we leave for Umbria or can we wait until the day before?

cornelius...we will actually be leaving on 6/30 so we will just miss you. If we make any fantastic discoveries, we will leave you a note.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 05:49 AM
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In Orvieto, I Sette Consoli is my favorite restaurant in all of Italy. Lunch outdoors under a tent is memorable and the evening tasting menu is excellent. She had a Michelin star, but, somehow, lost it.

I have stayed at LCG a half dozen times and have dined with Mauro, Silvana and their beautiful children often. Last time was at l'Alchemista in Montefalco. It is in the main piazza downstairs in the enoteca. Good home cooking.

I agree with the Ottavius suggestion. Also in Bevagna is Enoteca Piazza Onofre (sp?) in the center of town (parking nearby). More good local style dining.

Between Bevagna and Montefalco is the large Sagrantino vinyard of Arnaldo Caprai. Impressive new tasting room. Mauro can direct you. And at the edge of Montefalco is the tasting room of Paolo Bea. Much smaller but good Sagrantino.

At the top of Spello is La Bastiglia, a hotel with great views and a adventurous kitchen. (Bring money.)

On the southbound road toward Spoleto as you pass the lovely hilltown of Trevi and its "suburb" of Pigge watch for a sign(one only) for Taverna del Pescatore. TdP is on the right and just off the highway. Lunch under the big tent, with a little stream (with swans) is an experience.

There is more information on Umbria than one can digest on Slowtrav.com. Also if you spend a day in Perugia (and, of course, you should) slowtrav has driving directions to a parking deck at the base of the escalator system to centro. Without directions, IMO, Perugia is an adventurous drive.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 11:28 AM
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I also stayed at Le Case Gialle (just once, but can't wait to go back again) and DRJ (see above) provides a lot of great advice on the area, as you can see.

We also really liked our lunch (pasta w/ saffron cheese) at l'Alchimista in Montefalco, and tried to reproduce it back at LCG.

Which apt are you staying in? Between the five of us we stayed in il Portico and la Terraza. Loved the outdoor dining under the portico w/ views across the olive grove to Montefalco (fireflies each night we were there) and the sweet bedroom and balconey of la Terraza.

Definitely put yourself in Mauro's expert hands if you want to go wine tasting. Silvana can give you the names of the good pasta & pastry shops in Bevagna as well as restaurants. We did most of our food shopping there.

In addition to lounging around the little pool, taking small hikes in the neighborhood, and generally enjoying doing a lot of nothing, we did lots of day trips in Umbria and Tuscany to places like Assisi (hike up the moderate trail to St Francis's hermitage on Mt Subasio), Spello, Deruta (some of us), Florence (others of us), Perugia (one of my favorite cities in Italy), and even one long but great trip to Montalcino, Sant'Antimo and Siena.

But it was always sweet to get back 'home' to Le Case Gialle. Very laid back and relaxing place...
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Old May 11th, 2010, 11:45 AM
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Thank you so much for the wonderful recommendations from everyone...I really do appreciate it.

Do most/some of the restaurants that you mention accept credit cards and are ATM machines readily available?

annabelle...we are staying in il Portico and are so excited.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 11:54 AM
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Gubbio...ride the Bucket Of Bolts! Go to Day Six. Actually this part of the trip is all about Umbria, so you might want to read about what happened up until that fateful day.

http://web.me.com/tomfielding1/Tom_%...bria_2005.html

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Old May 11th, 2010, 12:07 PM
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I believe all of the restaurants that I mentioned will accept credit cards, although Amex is sometimes not welcomed. Bancomats are everywhere.

I think that I know Bevagna better than some parts of my city in the US. Bevagna's main street has everything to do with food and wine. You can't miss.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 12:16 PM
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If you make it to Bevagna, go to the Tourist Office and find out the schedule for viewing the excavated Roman bath mosaic floor and the interior of the opera house. Both are worth adjusting your time to see.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 01:11 PM
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I am enjoying this thread so much. We are staying at Le Case Gialle (il Portico) for 10 days in October. I have started a list of restaurants and places to visit, and now I have a few more to add to the list!
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Old May 11th, 2010, 04:39 PM
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Mikster, I will be looking for that note for discoveries. We are staying in Il Portico apartment. Will ask Mauro for suggestions on wine tasting and restaurants.So in a hurry and counting the weeks. can't wait to taste the Sagrantino wine.
Please let me know how it was.
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Old May 11th, 2010, 05:04 PM
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Sagrantino= tannic to the max. Brace yourself ! Its not for everyone and I am just beginnig to acclimate myself to it after three visits. There are variations in wineries and styles--and there are blends which will soften the tannins. Try the Rossos -- and then there is the very unique Passito, similar to a late harvest zinfandel with tannin. Enjoy!
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Old May 12th, 2010, 05:08 AM
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thank you, thank you, thank you...maitaitom...i look forward to finishing your report...started it yesterday and couln't finish because I was at work but it's hilarious...i have to say the fodors info ahead of a trip is always one of my favorite parts because everyone is so forthcoming with wonderful info. cornelius...I will definitely not forget you. Will they know you by your screen name at Le Case? Any other offerings that anyone thinks of, please pass on...I love reading them.

Buona giornata tutti!
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Old May 12th, 2010, 12:39 PM
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msitaitom...I just finished reading your report and I have to tell you that sadly the very same thing happened to my husband and i a few years ago in France when we put he wrong gas in a diesel car...it was so stressful and it cost a lot money...and we too only had a very tiny sticker on the inside of the gas cap indicating that the car was deisel. Apparently this is not uncommon as we looked in our french language book and among the phrases in the back was "can you help us? We put the wrong gazoleeene in the car." We won't make that mistake again. Thanks for sharing your wonderful trip report.
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