Toulouse, The Dordogne(based in Sarlat) and Paris
Oct 11th, 2012, 08:48 AM
#21
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TPAYT...
I am loving your report. It brings back great memories of my all too short stay in Sarlat 4 years ago. After reading about your Toulouse experience I think I need to put that city on my "possible places for a trip" list!
I am loving your report. It brings back great memories of my all too short stay in Sarlat 4 years ago. After reading about your Toulouse experience I think I need to put that city on my "possible places for a trip" list!
Oct 11th, 2012, 09:28 AM
#22
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Tpayt: Lucky you to see the inside of the manor house at Eyrignac. Also loved, loved, loved your photos. I so loved that place, I dream about going back to rent a house on that estate. There are two that can be rented, not far from the manor house. Did you see them?
Oct 11th, 2012, 10:31 AM
#23
taconictraveler---yes, one is next to the white garden and the other is in my photo titled Flowers All Around. We didn't go into them though. It would be a lovely place to stay but a bit of a drive to dinner.
LowCountry---we were surprised at how much we liked Toulouse. I could see going back to the city center around Capitole Sq. There are so many sites, shops, and restaurants that we didn't have time to see. BTW, I never mentioned the name of "One Dish" restaurant. It's "Relais Entrecote" with several locations in Paris as well.
LowCountry---we were surprised at how much we liked Toulouse. I could see going back to the city center around Capitole Sq. There are so many sites, shops, and restaurants that we didn't have time to see. BTW, I never mentioned the name of "One Dish" restaurant. It's "Relais Entrecote" with several locations in Paris as well.
Oct 11th, 2012, 12:10 PM
#24
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Glad to see that you put an embargo on the word 'cute.' Drives me crazy when I hear people talking about all the cute little villages here. Sounds patronizing - and not very original. There are lots of other adjectives to describe villages, churches, markets, etc.
Oct 12th, 2012, 01:13 PM
#27
This was our day with 11am reservations at Gouffre de Padirac. I made them a few months before and we were looking forward to a new adventure. Many questions were asked of the Fodorites on how to get there and what to see on the way. I do admit to a little too much planning but I also admit to throwing most of it out the window when we get there.
It was a cool, very gray day. We got out of town quickly and, maps in hand headed East toward Rocamadour. Parking at L'Hospitalet, we wanted to take photos of Rocamadour. The photos looked exactly exactly like the weather---dull & gray. Too bad because the town going up the hillside seemed interesting.
No time to stop, we got back on the road. We didn't want to be late for our reservation. Unfortunately, we got turned around somehow and got lost. Finally found the right direction and arrived at G de P with 10 minutes to spare.
The line was exceptionally long so MDH stood in it while I went in to see what I could do about our reservation.
This sight states that 20 million people have visited. Well, you would think that after 1 or 2 million peole went through they would have had a handle on people moving. This was just a joke. A guide did take my reservation paper immediately and then all went down hill. Organization was just a mess.
Finally we were allowed to go down. 3 elevators and a walk found us standing in a long line of people. We were in a dimly lit, damp, cold cave waiting for a boat. The line only moved inches at a time. Once in a while people would be coming out in a lane close to us. Nobody was talking or smiling-----that should have been a sign for us to get out of there.
We stood in line 1 hour and 5 minutes before we could get a glimpse of the boat dock. There were 3 stalls for the boats to land. An older woman was helped off of one of the boats and completely collapsed on the stone floor. This was not looking good.
We were herded and sort of pushed into the boats. I couldn't sit with my husband they made me sit with 2 large adults. The seating was 3 across and not wide enough for 3 adults which meant I was sitting sort of sideways on one hip. The boats were very shallow and I was practically hanging over the side. There are rope type railings all along the cave and I guess that was in case i fell overboard. 11 people per boat plus a guide.
The guide said some things in French and a few things in English and then we got to a dock deep in the cave. This is where it got really ugly.
Another guide took 3 boats of visitors(33 people) on a walking tour. He walked really fast, it was dark, the footing was bad, and we climbed probably 100+ stairs. Both of us are in good shape, but some people were having a difficult time keeping up. With so many people in his group you couldn't get close enough to hear what he was saying. Since it was all in French we didn't even try. I know, we are in France and if we don't speak the language too bad for us. There was never an offer of a headset with a guide in English. There were people from Germany, Spain, Italy, Japan and more and even some of them who understood French said they couldn't make out a word he was saying.
At one point MDH asked him a question in English. The guide made a rude gesture, turned around and walked away. He made no attempt to check and see who was keeping up with him. This was a very strenuous tour. I could now see why the woman collapsed when she got off of the boat.
OK, I will admit that it was pretty in the cave but you didn't have much time to enjoy looking at it because you really had to keep moving and watch your footing at all times.
All in all, this was a dreadful experience. We were treated with such disrespect and herded like sheep to the slaughter. It's hard to believe that they get away with treating people like that. I wonder how many people have been hurt. We saw a few groups of much older visitors coming out and I find it hard to believe that they could walk at that pace and do all those steps. Maybe they went on a different tour.
I have to add that we couldn't wait to get out of there.
When we did come out, the sun was out so we stopped in Carennac for lunch. After that dark, dank cave sitting on a terrace in the sun with a glass of wine was just the thing to do. Again we shared a huge salad with goat cheese, melon, sausage, and greens along with a slice of quiche. Actually it wasn't very good but the setting was pretty.
How could this day get any worse? Dinner at Auberge Le Mirandol in Sarlat.
Lukewarm mushroom soup
Tough, stringy beef of some kind
Mashed Potatoes with way too much garlic
But some good Jaubertie wine 57 Euros
We have a rule that we don't order dessert if the food is bad. We stopped and had some fantastic ice cream from a shop on the street. Pear, pistachio, and coconut---my favorite flavors.
We deemed this the day of rude, unpleasant people and ghastly food. Tommorrow has to be better!!!
As far as caves go, our experience with Font de Gaume a few days later was just the oppisite of this horror. IMO, that's the one to visit. More to come.
It was a cool, very gray day. We got out of town quickly and, maps in hand headed East toward Rocamadour. Parking at L'Hospitalet, we wanted to take photos of Rocamadour. The photos looked exactly exactly like the weather---dull & gray. Too bad because the town going up the hillside seemed interesting.
No time to stop, we got back on the road. We didn't want to be late for our reservation. Unfortunately, we got turned around somehow and got lost. Finally found the right direction and arrived at G de P with 10 minutes to spare.
The line was exceptionally long so MDH stood in it while I went in to see what I could do about our reservation.
This sight states that 20 million people have visited. Well, you would think that after 1 or 2 million peole went through they would have had a handle on people moving. This was just a joke. A guide did take my reservation paper immediately and then all went down hill. Organization was just a mess.
Finally we were allowed to go down. 3 elevators and a walk found us standing in a long line of people. We were in a dimly lit, damp, cold cave waiting for a boat. The line only moved inches at a time. Once in a while people would be coming out in a lane close to us. Nobody was talking or smiling-----that should have been a sign for us to get out of there.
We stood in line 1 hour and 5 minutes before we could get a glimpse of the boat dock. There were 3 stalls for the boats to land. An older woman was helped off of one of the boats and completely collapsed on the stone floor. This was not looking good.
We were herded and sort of pushed into the boats. I couldn't sit with my husband they made me sit with 2 large adults. The seating was 3 across and not wide enough for 3 adults which meant I was sitting sort of sideways on one hip. The boats were very shallow and I was practically hanging over the side. There are rope type railings all along the cave and I guess that was in case i fell overboard. 11 people per boat plus a guide.
The guide said some things in French and a few things in English and then we got to a dock deep in the cave. This is where it got really ugly.
Another guide took 3 boats of visitors(33 people) on a walking tour. He walked really fast, it was dark, the footing was bad, and we climbed probably 100+ stairs. Both of us are in good shape, but some people were having a difficult time keeping up. With so many people in his group you couldn't get close enough to hear what he was saying. Since it was all in French we didn't even try. I know, we are in France and if we don't speak the language too bad for us. There was never an offer of a headset with a guide in English. There were people from Germany, Spain, Italy, Japan and more and even some of them who understood French said they couldn't make out a word he was saying.
At one point MDH asked him a question in English. The guide made a rude gesture, turned around and walked away. He made no attempt to check and see who was keeping up with him. This was a very strenuous tour. I could now see why the woman collapsed when she got off of the boat.
OK, I will admit that it was pretty in the cave but you didn't have much time to enjoy looking at it because you really had to keep moving and watch your footing at all times.
All in all, this was a dreadful experience. We were treated with such disrespect and herded like sheep to the slaughter. It's hard to believe that they get away with treating people like that. I wonder how many people have been hurt. We saw a few groups of much older visitors coming out and I find it hard to believe that they could walk at that pace and do all those steps. Maybe they went on a different tour.
I have to add that we couldn't wait to get out of there.
When we did come out, the sun was out so we stopped in Carennac for lunch. After that dark, dank cave sitting on a terrace in the sun with a glass of wine was just the thing to do. Again we shared a huge salad with goat cheese, melon, sausage, and greens along with a slice of quiche. Actually it wasn't very good but the setting was pretty.
How could this day get any worse? Dinner at Auberge Le Mirandol in Sarlat.
Lukewarm mushroom soup
Tough, stringy beef of some kind
Mashed Potatoes with way too much garlic
But some good Jaubertie wine 57 Euros
We have a rule that we don't order dessert if the food is bad. We stopped and had some fantastic ice cream from a shop on the street. Pear, pistachio, and coconut---my favorite flavors.
We deemed this the day of rude, unpleasant people and ghastly food. Tommorrow has to be better!!!
As far as caves go, our experience with Font de Gaume a few days later was just the oppisite of this horror. IMO, that's the one to visit. More to come.
Oct 13th, 2012, 07:39 AM
#28
A few photos from Rocamadour, Gouffre de Padriac, and Carennac
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...02148983755411
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...02148983755411
Oct 13th, 2012, 12:23 PM
#30
Tue. brought rain so we lingered around Sarlat for a while looking in the shops. Found a nice sweater for our daughter
My taste leans toward pottery. An attractive piece caught my eye but when I looked at the bottom, it was made in Spain! Now maybe I don't get it, but why would I buy pottery from Spain at a shop in France???
On the way to the car we spotted an actual working pottery shop. What luck.
BEN KENZA
4 Rue Jean-Jacques-Escande
Sarlat
A small shop in front, a garden displaying more items plus open air workshop in the rear. A husband & wife team make the most interesting pieces. Original art, that's what I am always looking for. She tried to explain the technique. I tried to follow her but got lost along the way.
Cuisson Asiatique Bois Texture Minerale (copied from her writing on the back of their card, it may not be spelled correctly) Something about a wood fired oven and using water.
We purchased a plate and 3 small, very unusual vases. Each was individual and intense in coloration. I would have loved one of the larger pieces but it's too hard to transport and shipping is outrageous.
What a find! If you are in Satlat, this place is worth searching out.
What to do on a gray, rainy day? We decided to soldier on and not let it get the best of us.
CHATEAU DE BEYNAC
A short drive away, we were tempted to park when we arrived in Beynac THANKS TO FODORITE TIPS, we passed all the lots going up and found a spot at the restaurant just steps from the chateau. That walk up in the rain would not have been fun!
A sense of history abounds in this 13th Century chateau. Partialy furnished, it held our interest. We explored all the nooks & crannies and stepped out at the lookout points.
Looking down at the mist & fog along the river, the view over the valley was stunning. I only imagine that on a clear day it would be even better. Unfortuneately the gray, misty river photos don't seem to want to load, but here's a few. We didn't take a tour but the English leaflet we received explained things as we went along.
Afterwards we had a coffee and pastry in the cafe right outside the door of the chateau.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...tml?sort=2&o=0
Returned to D'Instant Declice for another good meal.
Beef Carpaccio & salad
Foie Gras salad
Salmon Ravioli--yumm!
Mushroom omelette
Wine 48 Euros
My taste leans toward pottery. An attractive piece caught my eye but when I looked at the bottom, it was made in Spain! Now maybe I don't get it, but why would I buy pottery from Spain at a shop in France???
On the way to the car we spotted an actual working pottery shop. What luck.
BEN KENZA
4 Rue Jean-Jacques-Escande
Sarlat
A small shop in front, a garden displaying more items plus open air workshop in the rear. A husband & wife team make the most interesting pieces. Original art, that's what I am always looking for. She tried to explain the technique. I tried to follow her but got lost along the way.
Cuisson Asiatique Bois Texture Minerale (copied from her writing on the back of their card, it may not be spelled correctly) Something about a wood fired oven and using water.
We purchased a plate and 3 small, very unusual vases. Each was individual and intense in coloration. I would have loved one of the larger pieces but it's too hard to transport and shipping is outrageous.
What a find! If you are in Satlat, this place is worth searching out.
What to do on a gray, rainy day? We decided to soldier on and not let it get the best of us.
CHATEAU DE BEYNAC
A short drive away, we were tempted to park when we arrived in Beynac THANKS TO FODORITE TIPS, we passed all the lots going up and found a spot at the restaurant just steps from the chateau. That walk up in the rain would not have been fun!
A sense of history abounds in this 13th Century chateau. Partialy furnished, it held our interest. We explored all the nooks & crannies and stepped out at the lookout points.
Looking down at the mist & fog along the river, the view over the valley was stunning. I only imagine that on a clear day it would be even better. Unfortuneately the gray, misty river photos don't seem to want to load, but here's a few. We didn't take a tour but the English leaflet we received explained things as we went along.
Afterwards we had a coffee and pastry in the cafe right outside the door of the chateau.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...tml?sort=2&o=0
Returned to D'Instant Declice for another good meal.
Beef Carpaccio & salad
Foie Gras salad
Salmon Ravioli--yumm!
Mushroom omelette
Wine 48 Euros
Oct 14th, 2012, 06:28 PM
#33
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That's terrible about the Gouffre de Padirac. We were there in late September and had a totally different experience with no crowds or queues. We really enjoyed it, although it was the only place on our trip where I felt the guides were looking for a tip.
Keep the report coming - it's great!
Keep the report coming - it's great!
Oct 15th, 2012, 07:34 AM
#35
Wed. was a splendid, sunny day. A good day for Marqueyssac Gardens. We had seen photos on the internet of this magnificent place, and they were beautiful, but the drama of this landscape must be felt in person.
We arrived at opening (10am) so not many people. By the time we left 3-1/2 hrs. later it was crowded. 7.50 Euro each.
There are 2 paths up to the Belvedere. The road leading from the restaurant is wider and an easier walk. We chose the harder, hillier path through the woods. Overlooking the river, there were many outlooks with superb views.
It was calm and peaceful with unusual plantings everywhere. The magnificient view from the Belvedere is not to be missed. The boats on the river, La Roque Gageac in the distance, quite a sight.
We returned by the easier road for a look at that side of the gardens. While pretty, this road didn't have the dramatic sense of the harder trek.
Arriving at the restaurant the peacocks were strutting around looking for handouts. It was tempting to linger & lunch here but we decided to move on to La Roque & the boats. After all, the weather was perfect for a ride on the river.
We enjoyed an excellent salad nicoise in a cafe along the river in La Roque. 24 Euros
Proceeded to the boats only to find out that a space was available in 1-1/2 hrs.
TIP: Get your boat tickets, then have lunch.
That gave us time to hike up to the tropical gardens halfway up the hill in LaRoque. It was small & pretty but after Marqueyssac a bit of a letdown.
After hiking up & down hills for miles & miles a relaxing boat ride in the sun was just what we needed. 18 Euros
At purchase we were never asked about language, but our ticket must have had a code on it because when we boarded the girl said, "here is your English translation headset." We also heard her giving out German, etc. headsets without asking. Obviously the ticket clerk was observant. Efficiently run, this was a good tour.
It was beautiful on the river and the English translation was quite interesting.
Example: Long ago, the boats were only capable of traveling downstream. Upstream was too difficult. They built the boats of wood & loaded cargo. When they got downstream to their destination they sold the cargo, dismantled the boat & sold the wood, then walked back to their starting point and did it all over again.
As we were viewing Marqueyssac from the boat we couldn't believe we had hiked all of it. The garden looked extremely long from the river. Oh well, definitely worked off those morning pastries!
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...73260166232667
Extremely hungry we headed to Chez Le Gaulois for another great Tartiflette. Beatrice remembered us by name which was nice. She obviously loves her job and meeting the people or she couldn't be so enthusiastic.
Should we have tried another of the many restaurants in Sarlat? Yes, and we did. We went to recommended ZIN 10 and left without ordering. Around 7ish, we were the only diners in the room. As we looked at the menu, some friends of the staff were all chatting loudly, then it happened---Michael Jackson music blared! Sorry, but at those prices, at any prices for that matter, we are not going to enjoy wine & dinner listening to MJ. There's a lot of competition in Sarlat that is in nicer surroundings.
Our dinner at Chez Le Goulois was excellent again. I recommend it highly.
2 Tartiflette
Appleberry crumble
Wine 45 Euros
BTW, the background music here was more to our liking. Emmy Lou Harris, Dire Straits---OK, to each his own! If you like MJ, go to Zin 10.
Thanks for following along.
Tomorrow another wonderful day at Font de Gaume, Les Milandes, Castelnaud, and dinner at La Gabarre.
We arrived at opening (10am) so not many people. By the time we left 3-1/2 hrs. later it was crowded. 7.50 Euro each.
There are 2 paths up to the Belvedere. The road leading from the restaurant is wider and an easier walk. We chose the harder, hillier path through the woods. Overlooking the river, there were many outlooks with superb views.
It was calm and peaceful with unusual plantings everywhere. The magnificient view from the Belvedere is not to be missed. The boats on the river, La Roque Gageac in the distance, quite a sight.
We returned by the easier road for a look at that side of the gardens. While pretty, this road didn't have the dramatic sense of the harder trek.
Arriving at the restaurant the peacocks were strutting around looking for handouts. It was tempting to linger & lunch here but we decided to move on to La Roque & the boats. After all, the weather was perfect for a ride on the river.
We enjoyed an excellent salad nicoise in a cafe along the river in La Roque. 24 Euros
Proceeded to the boats only to find out that a space was available in 1-1/2 hrs.
TIP: Get your boat tickets, then have lunch.
That gave us time to hike up to the tropical gardens halfway up the hill in LaRoque. It was small & pretty but after Marqueyssac a bit of a letdown.
After hiking up & down hills for miles & miles a relaxing boat ride in the sun was just what we needed. 18 Euros
At purchase we were never asked about language, but our ticket must have had a code on it because when we boarded the girl said, "here is your English translation headset." We also heard her giving out German, etc. headsets without asking. Obviously the ticket clerk was observant. Efficiently run, this was a good tour.
It was beautiful on the river and the English translation was quite interesting.
Example: Long ago, the boats were only capable of traveling downstream. Upstream was too difficult. They built the boats of wood & loaded cargo. When they got downstream to their destination they sold the cargo, dismantled the boat & sold the wood, then walked back to their starting point and did it all over again.
As we were viewing Marqueyssac from the boat we couldn't believe we had hiked all of it. The garden looked extremely long from the river. Oh well, definitely worked off those morning pastries!
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...73260166232667
Extremely hungry we headed to Chez Le Gaulois for another great Tartiflette. Beatrice remembered us by name which was nice. She obviously loves her job and meeting the people or she couldn't be so enthusiastic.
Should we have tried another of the many restaurants in Sarlat? Yes, and we did. We went to recommended ZIN 10 and left without ordering. Around 7ish, we were the only diners in the room. As we looked at the menu, some friends of the staff were all chatting loudly, then it happened---Michael Jackson music blared! Sorry, but at those prices, at any prices for that matter, we are not going to enjoy wine & dinner listening to MJ. There's a lot of competition in Sarlat that is in nicer surroundings.
Our dinner at Chez Le Goulois was excellent again. I recommend it highly.
2 Tartiflette
Appleberry crumble
Wine 45 Euros
BTW, the background music here was more to our liking. Emmy Lou Harris, Dire Straits---OK, to each his own! If you like MJ, go to Zin 10.
Thanks for following along.
Tomorrow another wonderful day at Font de Gaume, Les Milandes, Castelnaud, and dinner at La Gabarre.
Oct 15th, 2012, 10:24 AM
#37
Interesting about your experience at Gouffre de Padirac. Ours was completely opposite. No line...great (and funny guides) both on the boat and on the 1/2 hour walking tour. Each guide gave their spiel 1/2 in French and 1/2 in English. Luck of the draw, I guess. We also had a terrific meal at L'Instant Delice.
Oct 15th, 2012, 03:34 PM
#38
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Did you like Eyrignac or Marqueyssac better? I will be traveling with my husband and 15 year old son. So one garden is probably the max we will do.
I am really enjoying your trip report and photos.
I am really enjoying your trip report and photos.
Oct 16th, 2012, 06:54 AM
#39
Digbydog---both were outstanding. After taking the advice of many Fodorites we toured Eyrignac 1st, then Marqueyssac. If I were to choose only one, I would choose Marqueyssac, especially with a teen in tow. Climbing the trails through the woods up to the Belvedere would probably be more fun than the more formal gardens of Eyrignac.
maitaitom---did you mention restaurant L'Instant Delice in a question on Sarlat? I was trying to remember who suggested it and I thought it might be you.
Kansas,
taconic, &
AGM------I'm glad you are enjoying my report. I found so many suggestions from your extensive TR's before we left.
I hope I've inspired others as much as your TRs inspired me.
Thanks also to Carlux and StCirq for your font of knowledge on the area.
Nikki---I looked up your informative TR on Toulouse and it makes me want to return to see more of that lovely city.
I'm working on the photos for my next post---soon.
maitaitom---did you mention restaurant L'Instant Delice in a question on Sarlat? I was trying to remember who suggested it and I thought it might be you.
Kansas,
taconic, &
AGM------I'm glad you are enjoying my report. I found so many suggestions from your extensive TR's before we left.
I hope I've inspired others as much as your TRs inspired me.
Thanks also to Carlux and StCirq for your font of knowledge on the area.
Nikki---I looked up your informative TR on Toulouse and it makes me want to return to see more of that lovely city.
I'm working on the photos for my next post---soon.
