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Toulouse, The Dordogne(based in Sarlat) and Paris

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Toulouse, The Dordogne(based in Sarlat) and Paris

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Old Oct 16th, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Great report. Thanks!
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Old Oct 16th, 2012, 09:28 AM
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Beautiful photos....now there's another area we must add to the list of places to visit.
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Old Oct 16th, 2012, 10:58 AM
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Thurs. was to be our last day in Sarlat and again the weather was sunny. More almond croissants for breakfast---I just can't get enough of those. This has got to stop!

We had a 10:30am reservation at Font de Gaume. 10 Euros each. After the debacle at G de P we weren't so sure about this. What a different experience on this day.

FONT DE GAUME is a classy, well organized sight. Only 100 guests (10 groups of 10) are allowed a day. We made the reservation several months in advance. Our small group was led by an excellent guide. It was in English and he was well understood. His passion for his work was contagious. He grabbed our interest from the beginning.

Dimly lit, he used a special light to show the drawings as a bright light would start to destroy them. He was so enthusiastic in telling the stories of drawings made 15,000 years ago.

He said that there are about 400 caves in Southern France & Spain, but only 10 have drawings of this nature. It was amazing how they drew the animals in specific places on the rocks to almost look like 3D. They would use a bump in the rock to locate the hump on a bison's back.

What kind of people were these phenomenal artists? How did they communicate? I've never had a great interest in things prehistoric, but this wonderful guide made the age come alive.

As we walked slowly along he had to turn dim lights on as we approached each drawing. They are so careful about the maintenance of this cave, but still fear that it will be closed soon to preserve it.

Each group is only allowed in the cave for a certain amount of time. I'm guessing 30-40 min. It was all so interesting that the time just flew by. Soon he said that our time was up.

Next we had planned to go into Les Eyzies and on to Madeliene but we were running out of time so we moved on to:

CHATEAU DES MILANDES
We really didn't know much about Josephine Baker but it was recommended so off we went. Gorgeous day, gorgeous flowers, beautifully restored furnished house, we really enjoyed it.

Her, odd in my book, music was playing in the chateau. Many of her costumes were displayed and the information available was easy to read.

To see that she served in the intelligence service and slept in a pup-tent was quite interesting. Also interesting was the fact that she relayed secret messages by having them written in invisible ink on her musical scores. In this age of technology that really hit home. Invisible ink? Who thought that that was really used at one time.

The grounds are filled with flowers and there is a bird show at 3pm. We didn't stay for the show but looked at the birds in their cages. Quite a nice variety, I would think the show would be fun. 9 Euros each.

Over to Domme, we drove up as far as we could It was very crowded and parking was a nightmare so we didn't stay. Something to save for next time along with Les Eyzies.

On to Castelnaud. I had read "Castle in my Backyard" along with many others and I wanted to see this town. It was one of the "cutest" (there's that dreaded word again) we had been to. Steep hills, flowers everywhere. Oh my aching legs! We looked around and took some photos but didn't go up into the castle itself--again we'll save it for next time.

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...15020283492644

We stopped at La Gabarre restaurant to make a reservation for that night. We had looked for it yesterday and weren't able to find it. As we drove from Font de Gaume the signs for the restaurant were right there on the Beynac side as we crossed the river. From the south side it's not so easy to find.

La Gabarre gets such good reviews but I guess all I can say was that it was nice. The woman who took our reservation during the day was a delight. She also turned out to be our server for dinner.

Arriving at 7:30 we were the only diners in the room. A bit awkward I might say. My favorite wine is from the Sancerre region and the bottle I chose was one of the best I've had anywhere.

I chose Gambas for a starter. Huge with the heads and shells on, they were tasty but very messy to eat. MDH started with Foie Gras which he loves. Good but not great.

Next came tournedoes of beef, excellent, and dauphinouise potatoes, again excellent. The chef served the main course so that was a nice touch.

Dessert was chocolate mousse and a walnut souffle, again both good but not great.

As we were on our main course another couple finally came in to dine. That was it for guests. We joked with them as we were leaving, "It was fun having dinner with you" even though we hadn't said a word to each other. About 100 Euros.

You know it was a nice place and they were very gracious but I guess being in an empty room from 7:30 to 9pm on a Thurs. evening doesn't give you the best feeling. The main course & wine were excellent, the rest just average. For 100 Euros(probably $130 US) we expected more. Photos from dinner.

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...45957717295615

Tomorrow we drive to Brieve and get the train to Paris---
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Old Oct 16th, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Sorry you didn't have a great time at La Gabarre. We have just come home from dinner there, after a cooking course, and it was delightful - good food, lots of fun, good friends. I'll try to put up some photos tomorrow.

Valentine, who is probably the person who served you, and Ludovic, the chef, run the restaurant (Anselme their small son, is also often around the place.) For us it's a delight to have such a good restaurant in the area.
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Old Oct 16th, 2012, 12:49 PM
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Here's a few more photos taken around Sarlat.

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...round%20Sarlat

In 1 weeks time we saw some beautiful sites. There is so much more that we just couldn't fit it. As I said earlier, we like to take our time and not just rush through a place so that we can say that wew were there.

Sarlat was an excellent location to base in and tour the area. Yes, it's a busy city, but the old town is mostly pedestrian and really pleasant in the morning and at night. From noon until 4pm or so there are lots of tour buses but we were off on tour ourselves at thet time so it didn't bother us at all.

The road that rings the old town is very easy to figure out and by day 2 we were zipping in and out quite quickly. As far as restaurants in Sarlat go, there are way too many with the exact same menu. The quality is hit & miss. I guess with all the buses and tourists the restaurants don't feel the need to stand out---they'll probably only see you once, so take the money & run. I guess you just have to read the reviews and take your chances.

A restaurant that we really wanted to try was "L'Assiette de Foie Gras" in Sarlat across from Le Presidial. We walked there 3 times and it was closed. We later found out that it was only open for lunch at this time of year. Too bad, it looked good.

As far as dinner reservations, we found that if you arrived at 7:15-7:30 you would most likely get a table. By 8pm everything was full, good & bad.

Would we return? Maybe, to catch the places we didn't have time for.
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Old Oct 16th, 2012, 07:06 PM
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Nice report on Sarlat and environs. We like to travel as you do, and NOT rush around from dawn to dusk, so it makes me feel good that you saw so much in your week there.
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Old Oct 17th, 2012, 08:26 AM
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It was a very quick and easy drive to Brive. We filled up in Sarlat the night before. It was hard to believe that we only used 3/4 tank of diesel with all the running around we did. We had a Renault Twingo, small but perfect for the area.

We arrived at the train station early enough to change our 5pm tickets to the 1pm train. 4 hours later we were in Paris. Even though it was pouring rain, the taxi line was moving fast.

Our favorite city, this was our 9th visit to Paris. We were only to be here a few days so a hotel was in order.

The last 4 years we stayed in apt's on Ile St. Louis which made this a totally different experience. Actually it didn't seem right--we should be on ISL.

Hotel Henri IV Rive Gauche
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...tml#UR16736069

The lobby and public rooms were decorated nicely. Our room #602 was attractive and comfortable. Small in size but a king bed, desk & chair, and--surprise--a view of the Eiffel Tower over the roof top of St. Severin. Beautiful at night. At around 225 Euros a night, not cheap, but we though it was a good value as the property itself was nice and we could walk everywhere.

Just a few blocks from Notre Dame it was convenient to walk to our favorite places. On the negative side, the immediate surroundings were kind of junky. Next door a take away sandwich place and some cheap souvenir shops and across the street the long blank wall of St. Severin.

The reason I mention this is that if this were your 1st trip to paris you would think it was not a very nice area. Walk 1 block and the area improved. Totally safe & convenient, just not very pretty.

The hotel had made a reservation for us(no internet reservations accepted) at Marco Polo for that night. It was a Fri. and we know how hard it is to get in there on a weekend. MDH's favorite, we go there every time we are in Paris. Yes, it's Italian but most of the guests are French. We sat next to a great Parisian couple and had a fun chat with them. The owner always acts like he remembers us although I believe he's just a good business man and wants to make you feel comfortable.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...de_France.html

Melon & prosciutto, patsa, tiramisu, wine, & coffee 80 Euros

After walking there in the rather cold rain it was nice to be welcomed and have a good meal with good conversation.

Rain---that's the theme of our time in Paris this year. Through the years we have encountered all kinds of weather but this was just depressing. Usually we would enjoy a walk by the river after dinner, people watching and enjoying the musicians---none of that this year, just miserable rain.

The hotel had a very good breakfast for 12 Euros each.
Croissants, baguettes, pan au chocolate, cereal, fruit, yogurt, ham, sausage, OJ, coffee. We probably would have walked to an outside cafe one morning but the weather didn't permit.

Finally the sun came out at midday for a few hours and we spent some time in Luxembourg Gardens, another favorite of ours. A jazz type concert was going on so we had a coffee and listened for a while. All the flowers around the pond were in shades of yellow this year and in full bloom.

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...37709380857986

The rain came in again and we did a little shopping. Back to the hotel to relax a bit before dinner. This is when we like having an apt. instead of a hotel room---have a snack, a glass of wine, a little music, read for a while---just not the same, or even doable in a hotel room.

Fantastic dinner at Le Reminet

http://www.lereminet.com/

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...de_France.html

We booked this on The Fork as the place is really small and it was a Sat. night. Le Reminet will definitely go on our repeat list--it was so good.

OhOh, gotta run. I'll finish this later, including food photos of this wonderful dinner.
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Old Oct 19th, 2012, 07:52 AM
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Le Reminet is on the Left Bank across from Notre Dame. In years past we dined several times at Guy Savoy's "Atelier Maitre Albert" restaurant(another good choice.) It is right around the corner from Reminet, and we made note of "the cute purple" restaurant--which is now painted dark red.

Le Reminet has made the most of a very small space. With white table cloths, fresh pink roses, and tall candlesticks on each table, it was warm, inviting, and comfortable from the moment we were seated.

The staff was excellent, thankfully spoke English, took time to explain the menu, and didn't rush us. The service was spot on, timing perfect, wine bottle was monitored and glasses were refilled promptly.

Presentation of the food was picture perfect. Each item was a treat to the eye. Every bite was savored, the flavors outstanding.

Amuse Bouche--a shot of pureed shrimp soup

Gazpacho with goat cheese, avocado mousse
Foie Gras (MDH rated the best of the trip)

Filet of Beef
Sea Bass

Macron ala Rose & a gingerbread (both fantastic)

Sancere Blanc wine & coffee

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...11903847484722

Here's a big surprise---135 Euros minus 40%(-38 Euros)= 97 Euros final bill. When we booked on The Fork they did have some discounts but none were listed for Sat. night so it was a surprise to us. Such a deal even at full price but at the discount price it was like getting the 34 Euro bottle of wine free.

With this memorable food and service we will definitely return. Congratulations to the chef & staff.

Normally we would have walked along the Seine after dinner, but rain prevented that. It's a good thing the hotel had large, substantial umbrells to use.

The next 2 days---more rain! This was getting old.

We went to the Cluny Museum. The Moyen Age is not our favorite so it hadn't been on our list in the past. Actually it was quite enjoyable. The tapestries were beautiful, but the most interesting to us was the sculpture room.
The headless statues once stood on Notre Dame, then were vandalized and the heads chopped off and buried.

Other than that it was mostly shopping and eating--nothing wrong with that!

Dinner at L'Ilot Vache on Ile St. Louis
http://restaurant-ilotvache.com/inde...o=presentation

I absolutely love this place. The room is so attractive, the staff charming, and the food wonderful. I've had the lamb chops here many, many times and they are always perfect. They have a price fix dinner with several choices for starter, main, and dessert for 36 Euros.

2 Avocado Terrine starters
Lamb chops, beef brochette, outstanding dauphinoise potatoes
Floating Island & Tart Tatin desserts
1/2 bottle of Rose & coffee
92 Euros

It was pouring heavily outside so we lingered over coffee chatting with a South American couple next to us until it let up a bit.

Our last day, more pouring rain. In our 9 visits to Paris this was the worst continuous weather we encountered. We've had rain but never on every single day & night. Then, of course, we were really spoiled last year when it was 80 degrees every day and 75 at night for 9 days straight. Oh well, such is life!

Last dinner was a return to Marco Polo--MDH loves this place. Again a marvelous meal.

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...79286781129721

Melon & proscuitto & artichoke salad starters
Pasta & Veal Milanese
2 berry tarts (MP's specialty)
1/2 carafe wine & coffee
109 Euros

Even with the rain, we still love Paris. It will be back to Ile St. Louis again the next time we visit. We missed the ease of an apt. and the quiet streets of the island.

I hope my lengthy report and details will be of some help. We have gained such insight from the Fodorites reports through the years. You have posted information that is invaluable in planning a trip.

Travel On!!!
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Old Oct 19th, 2012, 01:00 PM
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Oh, TPAYT....you are killing me. I haven't been to Luxembourg Gardens in so long, so I enjoyed your photos. But, the Marco Polo "taunts" are really getting to me! We love MP and Albano is a treasure. All your Paris meals sounded good....as always the Sancerre does especially!

We have always skipped the Cluny but have heard good things....we just haven't made it yet.
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Old Oct 19th, 2012, 01:03 PM
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The link to Le Reminet is not working for me...anyone else. i get a home page to photobucket.
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Old Oct 19th, 2012, 05:42 PM
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denisea---
I posted 3 sites
1.Le Reminet home site--works for me
If not Google it & you'll get to the site.

2.Trip Advisor, Le Reminet--also works and in the beginning of the reviews on TA is also the home Le Reminet website to click on.

3.Le Reminet Photobucket photos

Yes, you haven't been to Lux. for a long time but it sounds like you had a fabulous time in Rome.
Paris, Rome---what name droppers we've become!
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Old Oct 20th, 2012, 07:59 AM
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It was the photo bucket link just under Sancerre Blanc....it just gets me to the photo bucket home page.

Yeah, I know....I just want to go everywhere, all the time. But, I am not independently wealthy so I have to whine about how much miss Paris and now Rome. Quite sure no one is feeling too sorry for me....I have a great life and have been to some amazing places! All good.
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Old Oct 20th, 2012, 08:49 AM
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TPAYT,

I posted again on the other one re photobucket..It does work as it did before for just the one photo with doing as I said.

a bientot...
Joan
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Old Oct 20th, 2012, 09:20 AM
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denisea---here it is. It was in the post from the previous day
http://www.lereminet.com/

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...de_France.html

Joan---thanks, I'll try it again.
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Old Oct 20th, 2012, 12:02 PM
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Wonderful TPAYT! Thank you very much for all of the detail.
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Old Oct 20th, 2012, 01:44 PM
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denisea---I just saw that the photobucket link to Le Reminet wasn't working---sorry.
Here it is again
Photos of Le Reminet
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...60328700479141

From Gazpacho to Macaron the photos should be here. These were my best food photos.
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Old Oct 20th, 2012, 03:20 PM
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Chaz and I are salivating! Looks great! We are working on short ribs and mashed potatoes for dinner.
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Old Oct 20th, 2012, 07:09 PM
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Tpayt: thanks for new link to photos from Le Reminet. I couldn't open the earlier one either. These are mouth-watering! Great report.
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Old Oct 20th, 2012, 08:57 PM
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Loved your trip report.
Brought back so many lovely memories of our time in Sarlat a few years ago.

We have just returned home from a visit to Belgium, Normandy, Brittany, Loire and of course a little time again in Paris.

I am so impressed with your excellent trip report and photos so soon after your trip. Well done!
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Old Oct 21st, 2012, 07:30 AM
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aussie_10---Thanks, I'm gald you enjoyed my report. Sometimes I think I get too caught up in details and therefore might be boring to read.
Talk about details, your TR of Sarlat, La Roque, Font de Gaume, etc. was so informative. I got lots of ideas and made many notes. These TRs and Q&As are what makes Fodors Forums so valuable.

Look forward to your TR on your recent trip. We haven't been to Belgium(but Brugge is on our list) Normandy, or Brittany, so it will be great to get your take on it. We have been to The Loire Valley twice and of course Paris so it will be fun to relive our travels with you.
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