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Old Jan 4th, 2006, 09:14 AM
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Thessaloniki

Having read so much interesting stuff about this city, I'm thinking of planning a trip. I hope to end up there after taking ferries around the Greek islands then take a train/bus to Athens.
Does anyone have info/advice on:
ferry routes/prices,
accomodation (cheapish),
trains/buses,
not-to-be-missed sights.
Thanks
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Old Jan 4th, 2006, 09:47 AM
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Just to add, I've looked at previous postings on this and the usual ferry/train/hotel websites. What I'd really like is feedback from someone who's actually been there.
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Old Jan 4th, 2006, 09:57 AM
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I was born there and have been back a few times as an adult. I have always stayed with relatives so I can't assist with hotels. I can tell you it's a beautiful small city and worthy of a couple of nights stay. The museums are nice, the white tower, and the old city walls(ruins) are both must sees. I would also rent a car and drive into halkidiki if possible. The beaches are incredible! This is something you can do with just two days.

Christina
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Old Jan 4th, 2006, 04:30 PM
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When visiting Thessaloniki with a seminar group a couple of yrs ago, we stayed at the Hotel Amalia which was quite comfortable. I don't know how much it costs but I imagine it's not too expensive. The address is Ermou 33.

The archaeological museum is very nice. Look especially for the fourth c BC Derveni Krater (you can't miss it--it's big!), a gorgeous gilt bronze vase with images of Dionysos. The site of Pella can be visited as a daytrip and is very interesting if you are a fan of ancient Macedon: it was the boyhood home of Alexander (the Great) and has a nice archaeological museum with knockout mosaics.

I'm not sure how far the site of Vergina is from Thessaloniki (we saw it en route and I didn't pay attention to distance/time), but it's a must if you can get there. The star there is the magnificent museum housing material from the three unlooted royal tombs discovered there in the 1970s. You can see the facades of two of the tombs because the museum is inside a reconstructed tumulus covering the tombs. (The third is not accessible.) One of the tombs is said by some to be that of Alexander's father Philip II (I disagree; I'm with those who think it belonged to his half-brother Philip III). The artifacts will knock your socks off, and the museum is one of the most atmospheric I have ever set foot in. You can also visit the remains of the Hellenistic palace at Vergina and the ancient theater (where Philip II was assassinated), a little ways away from the museum. [Trivia: in the Oliver Stone film "Alexander," several of the Vergina artifacts make cameo appearances, to the delight of classical geeks like me. So does the Derveni Krater, for that matter. Yes, I liked "Alexander," one of the few I think who did. But then, Alexander is My Man.]

Let's see: in Thessaloniki there is also the Roman Arch of Galerius to see, and a bevy of lovely Byzantine churches. I remember liking the church of Saint Demetrios very much.
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Old Jan 25th, 2006, 01:05 PM
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I've just finished reading Mark Mazower's book Salonica, City of Ghosts, which was superb. But it made me wonder, after all the upheavals of the twentieth century, if there is anything left of Ottoman/Jewish Salonika in this now-Greek city. Does anyone know?
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