Thanks for 20 Matchless Days in Umbria and Tuscany almost without a hitch
Jun 25th, 2010, 07:29 AM
#22
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For anyone who is still reading, I'll be away for the weekend, so will speed this up and tell you a few more tales, plus some really good tips, when I get back Monday night.
PREVIEW:
BREATHTAKING BACKROADS ROUTE TO GUBBIO
SLIGHTLY(?)LOST IN GUBBIO
DON'T TAKE THE FUNIVA
GREAT lunch in GUBBIO.
PREVIEW:
BREATHTAKING BACKROADS ROUTE TO GUBBIO
SLIGHTLY(?)LOST IN GUBBIO
DON'T TAKE THE FUNIVA
GREAT lunch in GUBBIO.
Jun 25th, 2010, 10:44 AM
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Loving your report and looking forward to the next installment.
We also had a parking barrier problem in a parking lot in Lucca.My husband put the ticket in, the barrier went up, he stalled the car, twice, the barrier came down....and we were trapped! Funny now, but then...not so much.
We also had a parking barrier problem in a parking lot in Lucca.My husband put the ticket in, the barrier went up, he stalled the car, twice, the barrier came down....and we were trapped! Funny now, but then...not so much.
Jun 26th, 2010, 01:01 PM
#29
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We were in Gubbio this May 14th, the day before one of the most important festivals, the Candle Race.
It had been raining off and on (mostly on) our first four days in Umbria and as we walked to the funiva to decide whether or not to take a ride it was pouring. The "fun ride" was running but there was no way I could convince my husband that lightening wouldn't strike us as we made our way up or down the mountain.
I really don't think my husband had any intention to take a ride but the rain gave him an easy out
Deborah
It had been raining off and on (mostly on) our first four days in Umbria and as we walked to the funiva to decide whether or not to take a ride it was pouring. The "fun ride" was running but there was no way I could convince my husband that lightening wouldn't strike us as we made our way up or down the mountain.
I really don't think my husband had any intention to take a ride but the rain gave him an easy out
Deborah
Jun 29th, 2010, 05:54 AM
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Yes, I'm back, and yes, the funiva was like an upright bearcage.
I remember once my husband convinced me to take a gondola up Whistler Mountain (in British Columbia, in Whistler's early days) I happily agreed, but then, half way up the mountain, this large safe gondola changed to a chair lift. And THEN, the chair lift stopped dead on a particularly horrific spot, for about half an hour. DH's arm turned blue, because my hand was so tightly grasped to his arm.
I considered walking back down when we finally did get up there, but I was told it was 9 miles. I looked so pathetic that some nice Canadians shared their lunch with us, in an effort to calm me down, so that I could return to the flatter surface of the earth.
So you can imagine that I was thrilled that the funiva wouldn't let us on. (later in the day when we went back to get our car, it looked like it might be working, but I didn't mention it to the others.)
OK, Ellenem, that was another tangent.
TUESDAY, JUNE 8, DAY SIX
Off we went to Gubbio. This time our fellow traveler, John, was driving his adorable little Fiat, or was it a Lancia, (or both?) Is there a Fiat Lancia?
Anyway it was suggested that we take the long route from Umbertide to Gubbio, by driving a crooked road up to PIETRALUNGA, and than down to GUBBIO.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS ROUTE. Of course, I was not at the wheel, and I didn't really have to even back-seat-drive, as it was not MY DH who was driving.
I hope John enjoyed it as much as the rest of us. He seemed to, and he's definitely a good sport in any event, and a mountain climber, by foot or car.
It was one of those drives full of "oohs" and "aahs" and continuous stops for views and photos. The Umbrian countryside, at least in this area, is just so compelling, with those patchwork views in every known shade of green.
At one point we stopped to photograph, and as I got out of the car, an old lady who was pushing a wheelbarrow full of hay came toddling across the road. I thought she was probably going to tell us to move along off her property, but no, she wanted to greet us and help us if we were lost. (I think) She spoke rapidly in Italian, and I spoke less rapidly in something like prehistoric caveman Italian. We had a very long conversation, with each of us speaking a language that the other could not possibly understand, but smiling all the while, and getting enough with gestures. Mostly, I just said "Va bene."
(Every time something like this happened, I'd imagine how MaiTaiTom would have handled it, and I would start laughing hysterically.. This usually went over big, cuz I suppose my Italian co-conversationalist would think I was laughing at his/her jokes.)
Anyway, we arrived in Gubbio, and of course, as seemed to happen like clockwork, the parking lot was full because of market day.
We parked in some no parking zone, and set out up the hill, where everything is in this part of Italy, that is to say "UP"
For some unknown reason, we had no map of Gubbio, which is the only way I can manage a place (map-dependency is a disease, the onset of which seems to occur as an anal-retentive control freak like me gets older, and needs always to know where NORTH is) We never found the Information to get a local map.
However, we did know to go UP.
After many up streets, I saw the fatal sign FUNIVA, loosely translated by me to mean "elevator." WRONG.
You have seen the messages above which tell you that luckily it was closed for repairs, which whether true or not, is what I translated for my TOTALLY non-Italian reading friends.
However, since it was closed for repairs, and was sort of higher up, our problem solving driver, the always helpful John, decided he would run down the hill and get the car, so we would not have so far to walk after we finally got to see the Palazzo Ducale and all the views, etc. (He runs up and down hills for sport and hikes all over the world, so we let him go.)
Then Claire and I led my DH to greater heights, where we planned to meet in one-half hour. (Do I even have to tell you the rest of THIS episode?)
First of all, Claire and I took DH slightly off course, as we found a climbing street with a glorious flower bed running all the way up through the middle. Irresistible! So we climbed and snapped photos and smelled the roses, until at the top, we realized we were way above Gubbio!! This flower-bedecked stair street was worth it for the views, but now we had to pick our way through dirt paths and rocks to get back down to the back of the Cathedral. THEN we had to figure out a way to get in to the back of the cathedral through a door that was not locked.
Finally, as the clock was ticking away on our meeting time, we found the Open Sesame, saw the strikingly cool quiet inside of the cathedral, and said a prayer that we had not lost John (and the CAR) forever.
Prayers were answered as we inched our way down to the Palazzo Ducale, when a smiling John appeared out of no where, at a completely different spot than the one where we were supposed to meet, and we got our full measure of the views from the elegant Palazzo. On this clear sunny day, with puffy clouds above, we could easily imagine why the Duke liked his palace up high.
I had not boned up much on Gubbio as I never expected to go there. I was waiting for Urbino! But Gubbio is well worth a day, and maybe more.
I certainly recommend it for lunch if not for the history and beauty.
We managed to find the elevator down, after resisting the many pottery shops. (Sorry, I'm looking at a Gubbio pot in my bookcase right now, and though I love it, DH's pottery carrying days are OVER.)
So, since Claire's guide book (FODOR'S ITALY) said that Taverna del Lupo was very good, we decided that we needed a seat, a breeze, a drink and some food. And there it was, pretty close to the bottom of the elevator. (Ascensor, not Funiva.)
This lunch was one of the most memorable we had, period.
I forget the wine, can you believe it? So it must not have been too great, a little rough, is all I wrote.
But, the food: we all had a rocket salad with tomatoes and watermelon, and little chunks of mozzarella, followed by a white lasagna with white truffles. The lasagna must have been made of clouds, it was so light, and the flavor was as divine as anything in the cathedral. I don't know what they do to the ricotta cheese filling, but I wish I could figure it out.
This was a very upscale restaurant, elegant in its appointments, but luckily they let us sweaty folk sit outside on a breezy patio. We paid E41 per couple, including sharing one bottle of wine and one of water.
We wandered a bit after lunch, but we were all finding the unusual heat in Umbria to be somewhat tiring, so we drove back home for the inviting thought of a nap, or another wander in our magical little town.
We went back the same way, since that route was so lovely. It was just as good on the return,
Slept for an hour and one half, had a risotto and asparagus at Erbaluna, one of our little town's restaurants. Our waitress was Marta, who also runs the dress shop in the piazza. (I told you it was a small town!)Wandering the town in the evening after dinner was one of our great pleasures, checking out the anzianos in the piazza, still out in the evening, chatting away in lively fashion, or kibitzing on the card games some of them were playing. In the other corner, the women gossiped, but kept an eye on the guys at all times. Just like home?
TOMORROW'S PREVIEW:
MARKET DAY IN UMBERTIDE'
FIND THE LAUNDROMAT?
BACK ON THE TRAIL OF PIERO
I remember once my husband convinced me to take a gondola up Whistler Mountain (in British Columbia, in Whistler's early days) I happily agreed, but then, half way up the mountain, this large safe gondola changed to a chair lift. And THEN, the chair lift stopped dead on a particularly horrific spot, for about half an hour. DH's arm turned blue, because my hand was so tightly grasped to his arm.
I considered walking back down when we finally did get up there, but I was told it was 9 miles. I looked so pathetic that some nice Canadians shared their lunch with us, in an effort to calm me down, so that I could return to the flatter surface of the earth.
So you can imagine that I was thrilled that the funiva wouldn't let us on. (later in the day when we went back to get our car, it looked like it might be working, but I didn't mention it to the others.)
OK, Ellenem, that was another tangent.
TUESDAY, JUNE 8, DAY SIX
Off we went to Gubbio. This time our fellow traveler, John, was driving his adorable little Fiat, or was it a Lancia, (or both?) Is there a Fiat Lancia?
Anyway it was suggested that we take the long route from Umbertide to Gubbio, by driving a crooked road up to PIETRALUNGA, and than down to GUBBIO.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS ROUTE. Of course, I was not at the wheel, and I didn't really have to even back-seat-drive, as it was not MY DH who was driving.
I hope John enjoyed it as much as the rest of us. He seemed to, and he's definitely a good sport in any event, and a mountain climber, by foot or car.
It was one of those drives full of "oohs" and "aahs" and continuous stops for views and photos. The Umbrian countryside, at least in this area, is just so compelling, with those patchwork views in every known shade of green.
At one point we stopped to photograph, and as I got out of the car, an old lady who was pushing a wheelbarrow full of hay came toddling across the road. I thought she was probably going to tell us to move along off her property, but no, she wanted to greet us and help us if we were lost. (I think) She spoke rapidly in Italian, and I spoke less rapidly in something like prehistoric caveman Italian. We had a very long conversation, with each of us speaking a language that the other could not possibly understand, but smiling all the while, and getting enough with gestures. Mostly, I just said "Va bene."
(Every time something like this happened, I'd imagine how MaiTaiTom would have handled it, and I would start laughing hysterically.. This usually went over big, cuz I suppose my Italian co-conversationalist would think I was laughing at his/her jokes.)
Anyway, we arrived in Gubbio, and of course, as seemed to happen like clockwork, the parking lot was full because of market day.
We parked in some no parking zone, and set out up the hill, where everything is in this part of Italy, that is to say "UP"
For some unknown reason, we had no map of Gubbio, which is the only way I can manage a place (map-dependency is a disease, the onset of which seems to occur as an anal-retentive control freak like me gets older, and needs always to know where NORTH is) We never found the Information to get a local map.
However, we did know to go UP.
After many up streets, I saw the fatal sign FUNIVA, loosely translated by me to mean "elevator." WRONG.
You have seen the messages above which tell you that luckily it was closed for repairs, which whether true or not, is what I translated for my TOTALLY non-Italian reading friends.
However, since it was closed for repairs, and was sort of higher up, our problem solving driver, the always helpful John, decided he would run down the hill and get the car, so we would not have so far to walk after we finally got to see the Palazzo Ducale and all the views, etc. (He runs up and down hills for sport and hikes all over the world, so we let him go.)
Then Claire and I led my DH to greater heights, where we planned to meet in one-half hour. (Do I even have to tell you the rest of THIS episode?)
First of all, Claire and I took DH slightly off course, as we found a climbing street with a glorious flower bed running all the way up through the middle. Irresistible! So we climbed and snapped photos and smelled the roses, until at the top, we realized we were way above Gubbio!! This flower-bedecked stair street was worth it for the views, but now we had to pick our way through dirt paths and rocks to get back down to the back of the Cathedral. THEN we had to figure out a way to get in to the back of the cathedral through a door that was not locked.
Finally, as the clock was ticking away on our meeting time, we found the Open Sesame, saw the strikingly cool quiet inside of the cathedral, and said a prayer that we had not lost John (and the CAR) forever.
Prayers were answered as we inched our way down to the Palazzo Ducale, when a smiling John appeared out of no where, at a completely different spot than the one where we were supposed to meet, and we got our full measure of the views from the elegant Palazzo. On this clear sunny day, with puffy clouds above, we could easily imagine why the Duke liked his palace up high.
I had not boned up much on Gubbio as I never expected to go there. I was waiting for Urbino! But Gubbio is well worth a day, and maybe more.
I certainly recommend it for lunch if not for the history and beauty.
We managed to find the elevator down, after resisting the many pottery shops. (Sorry, I'm looking at a Gubbio pot in my bookcase right now, and though I love it, DH's pottery carrying days are OVER.)
So, since Claire's guide book (FODOR'S ITALY) said that Taverna del Lupo was very good, we decided that we needed a seat, a breeze, a drink and some food. And there it was, pretty close to the bottom of the elevator. (Ascensor, not Funiva.)
This lunch was one of the most memorable we had, period.
I forget the wine, can you believe it? So it must not have been too great, a little rough, is all I wrote.
But, the food: we all had a rocket salad with tomatoes and watermelon, and little chunks of mozzarella, followed by a white lasagna with white truffles. The lasagna must have been made of clouds, it was so light, and the flavor was as divine as anything in the cathedral. I don't know what they do to the ricotta cheese filling, but I wish I could figure it out.
This was a very upscale restaurant, elegant in its appointments, but luckily they let us sweaty folk sit outside on a breezy patio. We paid E41 per couple, including sharing one bottle of wine and one of water.
We wandered a bit after lunch, but we were all finding the unusual heat in Umbria to be somewhat tiring, so we drove back home for the inviting thought of a nap, or another wander in our magical little town.
We went back the same way, since that route was so lovely. It was just as good on the return,
Slept for an hour and one half, had a risotto and asparagus at Erbaluna, one of our little town's restaurants. Our waitress was Marta, who also runs the dress shop in the piazza. (I told you it was a small town!)Wandering the town in the evening after dinner was one of our great pleasures, checking out the anzianos in the piazza, still out in the evening, chatting away in lively fashion, or kibitzing on the card games some of them were playing. In the other corner, the women gossiped, but kept an eye on the guys at all times. Just like home?
TOMORROW'S PREVIEW:
MARKET DAY IN UMBERTIDE'
FIND THE LAUNDROMAT?
BACK ON THE TRAIL OF PIERO
Jun 29th, 2010, 01:01 PM
#33
Great stuff tt, however whenever I read the words "Fiat" and "Gubbio" in the same sentence I start sweating profusely and can actually see our deceased rental car when I close my eyes. I think you would have enjoyed the "Bucket Of Bolt." It looks worse than it really is. Keep it coming!!
Jun 29th, 2010, 05:47 PM
#34
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JUNE 9, 2010 AND IT'S ONLY DAY SEVEN, WE'VE GOT TO GET THIS REPORT MOVING!!
I am married to a man who like clean clothes so much he does the laundry. and the ironing. so now you know.
DH opined that it was time to find a laundromat. Our friends at the Locanda were puzzled. "you are in the Italian version of Heaven, and you want to go to the laundromat? Perche?"
"we want to follow Piero," (and DH wants to follow the Febreeze.)
OK, I mediated. Let's go to the market in Umbertide ($1.00 to the person who can pronounce this unusual Italian town name) I said, it's market day there, then we will drop the clothes off at a laundromat, and pick them up later, so we can go follow Piero to Sansepolcro and have lunch at D'Aventura of Fodor fame.
Worked for all four of us.
The market, Wednesday only, in Umbertide, was super. We bought some marvelous young pecorino cheese, some focaccia from the nearby bakery, some luscious tomatoes, melon and strawberries, dreaming of a simple supper back "home" on our porch.
We found help in the form of the English ladies (who sell used English language books at the market in aid of some wonderful charity.) Please do go there and support them, they were so very helpful to us -they found us the route to the laundromat for example, and the marriage was saved once again.
Now the laundromat guy was delighted to see us (and we were delighted to see him, because it took a while to find him, and his establishment, and I was hoping it would happen before noon, so we could get to Sansepolcro to see the Resurrection!!)
He took the laundry promising it in one hour, but no - DH said, I don't need it until 5 or 6 PM. "Va bene" said the guy.
Off we went, sailing by the huge new super COOP supermarket (which apparently everyone has trouble finding in Umbertide, but WE know where it is, because we had to find the laundromat!! It's all on via Morandi if you happen to be going to the area of Umbertide this summer.) nice suburb.
OK - off to Sansepulcro we went, zooming up the E45 to the Museo Civico to see this most incredible painting.
No matter what your religious beliefs, I believe you might agree with Aldous Huxley who said he thought this was the best small painting in the world.
Except it's not a painting, it's a fresco, and it's not small - it's maybe 4 feet by 7 feet (now I'm really bad with numbers so maybe wrong here.)
When we got there, I could barely contain myself, anxious to view once again this remarkable work that I had seen in 1998 or 1999 for the first time.
The Museo Civico has changed. It's got a new look and they have dandied the place up quite a bit, all to the good, I guess.
We walked in to the room where the fresco resides, and OH, NO!! there was a scaffolding in front of the Resurrection, with two young people standing on it, totally focused on some big camera on a tripod!! Totally hiding the famed work.
OH, NO! I gasped. There followed another MaiTaiTom moment in which I tried to tell the guards how terrible it was that we could not get a good view of this treasure.
Then our friend John tried out not his Italian, but his Italian ACCENT, and we all fell about laughing. We kept crawling around the room with our cameras, trying to focus up thru the scaffolding, or around it, or more or less sobbing on each other's shoulders, until, suddenly, I saw a higher authority approaching. (No, it was not the resurrected Christ, but with a LOT of authority, it was the Senior guard.)
We thought for a moment or two that we were going to be evicted from the museum, but instead, the big cheese lady talked to the two up on the scaffold, and, in an apparent Caesar quality agreement, it was decided, and we were told in somewhat English/Italian prose, that the two researchers would come down in five minutes and we would have fifteen minutes with the fresco all to ourselves. Basta. Chiuso.
Needless to say, we were thrilled, they were thrilled, and all was right with the world.
Find this fresco on the web, if you don't already know it, and look at a copy of the image. It is remarkable in so many ways that I cannot even describe. The geometry is amazing, the design is pleasing, the Christ is such a strong vertical figure, so commanding. just downright amazing work, BEFORE COLUMBUS DISCOVERED AMERICA!!
The aforementioned John managed to get a whole lot of info from the young researchers during their "break." They are taking infra-red photos to see what needs to be preserved and how to go about it. They are part of several teams of researchers (19 in all) who are going about doing this for several major works of art in Italy, to continue preservation work throughout the country.
After this joyful interlude, we adjourned to D'Aventura for a most unusual antipasti lunch.
The house white and the house red were very good. The best thing to order, by far, is the plate of selections from the antipasti table which they roll around to each table: the waiter will explain the dishes and you can just point to what you want: there were sausages, large and small, goat's cheeses, and all sorts of vegetable combinations. All the ones I chose were absolutely delicious, and ordering a pasta (which DH and I shared) on top of that was really too much.
To cap off the day, we drove to Monterchi to the former elementary school, again on beautiful country roads with never ending views, to see the Madonna del Parto, which takes up the whole building. If you want to see grown men cry, go to Monterchi to see this Pregnant Madonna, an elegantly beautiful young girl, with the beatific smile of a mother to be.
I have never seen my husband so moved by a painting! He told me afterward that it was the first time he had ever seen the Virgin depicted as she was, a young girl.
To cap elegant artistic beauty with the folly of clean laundry, we hied off to via Morandi, down the autostrada, to collect the freshly laundered, folded and ready clothing of DH. Well, not quite.
Of course, it wasn't ready, since we told the guy we'd be back at five or six and it was only six.
So, we went to the COOP supermarket, got some wines, and finally got home to our little wisteria covered terrace for a wine and cheese supper, followed by a walk to the piazza for gelato.
This was a very special day, and we needed to rest up for tomorrow.
PREVIEW OF TOMORROW:
URBINO, NEED I SAY MORE?
THE LONG WRONG WAY HOME or THANK YOU, CITIZENS OF BORGO PACE
I am married to a man who like clean clothes so much he does the laundry. and the ironing. so now you know.
DH opined that it was time to find a laundromat. Our friends at the Locanda were puzzled. "you are in the Italian version of Heaven, and you want to go to the laundromat? Perche?"
"we want to follow Piero," (and DH wants to follow the Febreeze.)
OK, I mediated. Let's go to the market in Umbertide ($1.00 to the person who can pronounce this unusual Italian town name) I said, it's market day there, then we will drop the clothes off at a laundromat, and pick them up later, so we can go follow Piero to Sansepolcro and have lunch at D'Aventura of Fodor fame.
Worked for all four of us.
The market, Wednesday only, in Umbertide, was super. We bought some marvelous young pecorino cheese, some focaccia from the nearby bakery, some luscious tomatoes, melon and strawberries, dreaming of a simple supper back "home" on our porch.
We found help in the form of the English ladies (who sell used English language books at the market in aid of some wonderful charity.) Please do go there and support them, they were so very helpful to us -they found us the route to the laundromat for example, and the marriage was saved once again.
Now the laundromat guy was delighted to see us (and we were delighted to see him, because it took a while to find him, and his establishment, and I was hoping it would happen before noon, so we could get to Sansepolcro to see the Resurrection!!)
He took the laundry promising it in one hour, but no - DH said, I don't need it until 5 or 6 PM. "Va bene" said the guy.
Off we went, sailing by the huge new super COOP supermarket (which apparently everyone has trouble finding in Umbertide, but WE know where it is, because we had to find the laundromat!! It's all on via Morandi if you happen to be going to the area of Umbertide this summer.) nice suburb.
OK - off to Sansepulcro we went, zooming up the E45 to the Museo Civico to see this most incredible painting.
No matter what your religious beliefs, I believe you might agree with Aldous Huxley who said he thought this was the best small painting in the world.
Except it's not a painting, it's a fresco, and it's not small - it's maybe 4 feet by 7 feet (now I'm really bad with numbers so maybe wrong here.)
When we got there, I could barely contain myself, anxious to view once again this remarkable work that I had seen in 1998 or 1999 for the first time.
The Museo Civico has changed. It's got a new look and they have dandied the place up quite a bit, all to the good, I guess.
We walked in to the room where the fresco resides, and OH, NO!! there was a scaffolding in front of the Resurrection, with two young people standing on it, totally focused on some big camera on a tripod!! Totally hiding the famed work.
OH, NO! I gasped. There followed another MaiTaiTom moment in which I tried to tell the guards how terrible it was that we could not get a good view of this treasure.
Then our friend John tried out not his Italian, but his Italian ACCENT, and we all fell about laughing. We kept crawling around the room with our cameras, trying to focus up thru the scaffolding, or around it, or more or less sobbing on each other's shoulders, until, suddenly, I saw a higher authority approaching. (No, it was not the resurrected Christ, but with a LOT of authority, it was the Senior guard.)
We thought for a moment or two that we were going to be evicted from the museum, but instead, the big cheese lady talked to the two up on the scaffold, and, in an apparent Caesar quality agreement, it was decided, and we were told in somewhat English/Italian prose, that the two researchers would come down in five minutes and we would have fifteen minutes with the fresco all to ourselves. Basta. Chiuso.
Needless to say, we were thrilled, they were thrilled, and all was right with the world.
Find this fresco on the web, if you don't already know it, and look at a copy of the image. It is remarkable in so many ways that I cannot even describe. The geometry is amazing, the design is pleasing, the Christ is such a strong vertical figure, so commanding. just downright amazing work, BEFORE COLUMBUS DISCOVERED AMERICA!!
The aforementioned John managed to get a whole lot of info from the young researchers during their "break." They are taking infra-red photos to see what needs to be preserved and how to go about it. They are part of several teams of researchers (19 in all) who are going about doing this for several major works of art in Italy, to continue preservation work throughout the country.
After this joyful interlude, we adjourned to D'Aventura for a most unusual antipasti lunch.
The house white and the house red were very good. The best thing to order, by far, is the plate of selections from the antipasti table which they roll around to each table: the waiter will explain the dishes and you can just point to what you want: there were sausages, large and small, goat's cheeses, and all sorts of vegetable combinations. All the ones I chose were absolutely delicious, and ordering a pasta (which DH and I shared) on top of that was really too much.
To cap off the day, we drove to Monterchi to the former elementary school, again on beautiful country roads with never ending views, to see the Madonna del Parto, which takes up the whole building. If you want to see grown men cry, go to Monterchi to see this Pregnant Madonna, an elegantly beautiful young girl, with the beatific smile of a mother to be.
I have never seen my husband so moved by a painting! He told me afterward that it was the first time he had ever seen the Virgin depicted as she was, a young girl.
To cap elegant artistic beauty with the folly of clean laundry, we hied off to via Morandi, down the autostrada, to collect the freshly laundered, folded and ready clothing of DH. Well, not quite.
Of course, it wasn't ready, since we told the guy we'd be back at five or six and it was only six.
So, we went to the COOP supermarket, got some wines, and finally got home to our little wisteria covered terrace for a wine and cheese supper, followed by a walk to the piazza for gelato.
This was a very special day, and we needed to rest up for tomorrow.
PREVIEW OF TOMORROW:
URBINO, NEED I SAY MORE?
THE LONG WRONG WAY HOME or THANK YOU, CITIZENS OF BORGO PACE
Jun 29th, 2010, 08:05 PM
#35
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Taconic --
What a FANTASTIC report! Thanks so much for sharing your experiences!
We will be in Umbria for the first time next summer, and I am taking serious notes.
Looking forward to more!
Thanks,
Dina
What a FANTASTIC report! Thanks so much for sharing your experiences!
We will be in Umbria for the first time next summer, and I am taking serious notes.
Looking forward to more!
Thanks,
Dina
Jun 30th, 2010, 08:08 PM
#36
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Thanks, Dina, and all the rest of you for spurring me on.
JUNE 10, 2010, URBINO
We set off at 9 AM for our almost two hour drive to Urbino, which was pretty and uneventful, with John taking his turn driving. I had read on FODOR'S about parking and escalators and this time in Urbino we seemed to get it right.
We parked underground at about E1 per hour and took the elevator which cost half a Euro.
Once again everything is uphill in these towns, even after the escalator and or elevator.
So we walked up to Raffaele's house, which we liked really very much. It has probably been spiffed up a bit since his time, but it was quiet with very few tourists. His father was also a painter of some repute, so I guess the family did OK.
It was here that I purchased a E6 poster of a Raffaele' Madonna and Child, and later wondered if I had lost my mind. (I carried it everywhere forever afterwards, rolled up with no cardboard tube, lashed to my back with a long length of white satin ribbon(!)and it arrived home safe and sound, enduring motor trips, American Airlines, and various droppings and almost losses for the following 10 days.) It is now being framed in a nearby town, none the worse for wear. Miracolo!)
We next went to the Cathedral, which was very simple, compared to some of the earlier stuff we've been seeing, that is on the inside. The outside matched the palazzo at least in terms of soft pink brick.
This poor cathedral has had a sorry life, or at least its predecessors have.
It seems the original cathedral collapsed, and then the first replacement's dome collapsed in on itself and dragged the whole thing down into some lower level of the inferno. Or maybe it was the other way around. At any rate, this one is strikingly simple in its beauty with an almost all white interior and formed in the basilica style.
We were saving most of our time for the magnificent Palazzo Ducale. I'd been waiting for many years to see the home of the Duke of Montefeltro, whose hook-nosed profile is the epitome of Piero's work, and sits facing his (sadly, ugly) wife in the Ufizzi. Probably most of you have seen it, and most people remember the strength of this man's nose, which was very memorable, and accurate, if the other portraits in the palazzo are correct.
The courtyard in the palazzo must be the most serene courtyard in captivity. It's the kind of place that makes grown up architects weep. Classic in its proportions, subtle pink brick punctuated with windows surrounded in cream colored stone, and cream colored stone with windows surrounded in pink brick, graceful arches, Latin inscriptions all around, just the most pleasing classical kind of structure.
The palace itself is also a museum, and it houses treasures that show the importance and the influence of the Duke, a giant of the Renaissance. Here are treasures like Piero's Flagellation of Christ, a small but mighty painting., and also the "Ideal City" the earliest study on perspective, plus works by Luca Signorelli, Paolo Ucello and other greats from our Art Survey Courses.
The city is alive with students, and seems very vibrant, situated in the midst of lovely hillsides of green.
Even a day long visit is not enough for all the gems in this elegant remnant of the Renaissance.
IN FACT I URGE ANY FODORITES WHO CAN POSSIBLY DO SO TO SPEND AT LEAST ONE NIGHT HERE. I also recommend spending at least one night in Orvieto, Arezzo, and Gubbio.
We felt so lucky to spend many nights in our little town, so that we got the real flavor of this small town, and next time I go to Italy I intend to go back to Urbino, to see even more, and hopefully drink in more of the essence of this Duke's Renaissance and this year's students.(the only one we talked to was from North Carolina.)
By now, we famished art lovers started looking for a glass of wine and a lunch menu.
We went to the San Domenico, which I saw across the way, cuz I'd heard it was the best hotel in town, and that therefore it would have a good restaurant. Wrong again. They have NO restaurant.
But they sent us to a great place, directly across from the cathedral. It looks like a bar, and there are tables outside. But I have learned that there is often much more to a bar in Italy than appears at first. Anyway, it was very hot under those umbrellas.
I scouted around and kept walking inside and came to - Yes - a lovely garden restaurant in the back, with lots of diners just finishing. They were willing to serve us, even tho it was late, and in fact, the young waiters were delightful fun. They spoke very funny, very idiomatic English, which we learned they learned from American students in Urbino!
The name of the restaurant is IL CORTEGIANO, if you're going to Urbino, it's worth a meal for sure.
First of all the vino bianchi della casa was just dandy, and we were thirsty!! I was hungry but hot and tired, so I ordered a prosciuto and melon appetizer as I thought it would be a small light dish.
Before our orders came, we were served a wonderful appetizer "on the house" called "crescia d'Urbino" It was sort of like a quesadilla, with spinach and cheese. Absolutely delish!
My small lunch was a gigantic serving of perfect melon with extremely tasty slices of prosciuto! I managed to eat it all. Then, as we declined to order dessert, we were each served a tiny little lemon square that was also "on the house."
Hard to beat a lunch like that, and though we were far from hungry, we decided we had to try the gelato at Romano, directly across from San Francesco Church.
We hadn't had much gelato for some reason on this trip, but this place was touted by Rick Steves, so I was told. I'll always eat gelato (if forced, LOL) but somehow this trip all the gelato tasted like ice cream.
Now, unfortunately this day's report is getting awfully long, for which I apologize, but the report is not half as long as our trip back "home."
We set out to take another scenic route over some small mountain pass. Unfortunately each time it was John's turn to drive, we seemed to have "switchback day." This route was miles and miles of switchbacks through Urbania to Sansepolcro and then down the E45.
We must have driven 5 or 6 miles of switchbacks up to the very top of a small mountain, through what we decided was some sort of national park (no houses after we passed a little resort town called Borgo Pace.) At the very top, miles and miles after the last turn off, the road was totally blocked, with a small sign that simply said: "Chiuso." Poor John was totally out of LeMans mode by now, but back down the mountain we went, stopping in Borgo Pace to see what to do next.
We cute little old ladies got out of the car in the middle of the town, and started trying to explain ourselves to the cute little old ladies sitting on the benches. Pretty soon some of the men came over to get in on the fun.
Then another car full of people came, who apparently were also lost. Then some young people came along. Then we went in to the bar to use the facilities, because we thought this could go on for a long time. More lost cars showed up. I started taking photos of this charming little nowhere place, thinking about my next trip to Italy. FINALLY, one of the younger ladies pointed to the OPEN door of a building above which was the ubiquitous Italian sign for "Information" a large lower case "i."
Well, well, this was getting like a strange western movie where all the cast of characters ends up in some weird cafe, (you know the one.) But in this case, we got all the info we needed, didn't have to pay anyone to get out of town, and were actually home just barely before dark.
The trip home took exactly four hours instead of two, but, hey, who's counting??
PREVIEW OF TOMORROW:
ALMOST NOTHING HAPPENED BUT A FABULOUS MEAL
JUNE 10, 2010, URBINO
We set off at 9 AM for our almost two hour drive to Urbino, which was pretty and uneventful, with John taking his turn driving. I had read on FODOR'S about parking and escalators and this time in Urbino we seemed to get it right.
We parked underground at about E1 per hour and took the elevator which cost half a Euro.
Once again everything is uphill in these towns, even after the escalator and or elevator.
So we walked up to Raffaele's house, which we liked really very much. It has probably been spiffed up a bit since his time, but it was quiet with very few tourists. His father was also a painter of some repute, so I guess the family did OK.
It was here that I purchased a E6 poster of a Raffaele' Madonna and Child, and later wondered if I had lost my mind. (I carried it everywhere forever afterwards, rolled up with no cardboard tube, lashed to my back with a long length of white satin ribbon(!)and it arrived home safe and sound, enduring motor trips, American Airlines, and various droppings and almost losses for the following 10 days.) It is now being framed in a nearby town, none the worse for wear. Miracolo!)
We next went to the Cathedral, which was very simple, compared to some of the earlier stuff we've been seeing, that is on the inside. The outside matched the palazzo at least in terms of soft pink brick.
This poor cathedral has had a sorry life, or at least its predecessors have.
It seems the original cathedral collapsed, and then the first replacement's dome collapsed in on itself and dragged the whole thing down into some lower level of the inferno. Or maybe it was the other way around. At any rate, this one is strikingly simple in its beauty with an almost all white interior and formed in the basilica style.
We were saving most of our time for the magnificent Palazzo Ducale. I'd been waiting for many years to see the home of the Duke of Montefeltro, whose hook-nosed profile is the epitome of Piero's work, and sits facing his (sadly, ugly) wife in the Ufizzi. Probably most of you have seen it, and most people remember the strength of this man's nose, which was very memorable, and accurate, if the other portraits in the palazzo are correct.
The courtyard in the palazzo must be the most serene courtyard in captivity. It's the kind of place that makes grown up architects weep. Classic in its proportions, subtle pink brick punctuated with windows surrounded in cream colored stone, and cream colored stone with windows surrounded in pink brick, graceful arches, Latin inscriptions all around, just the most pleasing classical kind of structure.
The palace itself is also a museum, and it houses treasures that show the importance and the influence of the Duke, a giant of the Renaissance. Here are treasures like Piero's Flagellation of Christ, a small but mighty painting., and also the "Ideal City" the earliest study on perspective, plus works by Luca Signorelli, Paolo Ucello and other greats from our Art Survey Courses.
The city is alive with students, and seems very vibrant, situated in the midst of lovely hillsides of green.
Even a day long visit is not enough for all the gems in this elegant remnant of the Renaissance.
IN FACT I URGE ANY FODORITES WHO CAN POSSIBLY DO SO TO SPEND AT LEAST ONE NIGHT HERE. I also recommend spending at least one night in Orvieto, Arezzo, and Gubbio.
We felt so lucky to spend many nights in our little town, so that we got the real flavor of this small town, and next time I go to Italy I intend to go back to Urbino, to see even more, and hopefully drink in more of the essence of this Duke's Renaissance and this year's students.(the only one we talked to was from North Carolina.)
By now, we famished art lovers started looking for a glass of wine and a lunch menu.
We went to the San Domenico, which I saw across the way, cuz I'd heard it was the best hotel in town, and that therefore it would have a good restaurant. Wrong again. They have NO restaurant.
But they sent us to a great place, directly across from the cathedral. It looks like a bar, and there are tables outside. But I have learned that there is often much more to a bar in Italy than appears at first. Anyway, it was very hot under those umbrellas.
I scouted around and kept walking inside and came to - Yes - a lovely garden restaurant in the back, with lots of diners just finishing. They were willing to serve us, even tho it was late, and in fact, the young waiters were delightful fun. They spoke very funny, very idiomatic English, which we learned they learned from American students in Urbino!
The name of the restaurant is IL CORTEGIANO, if you're going to Urbino, it's worth a meal for sure.
First of all the vino bianchi della casa was just dandy, and we were thirsty!! I was hungry but hot and tired, so I ordered a prosciuto and melon appetizer as I thought it would be a small light dish.
Before our orders came, we were served a wonderful appetizer "on the house" called "crescia d'Urbino" It was sort of like a quesadilla, with spinach and cheese. Absolutely delish!
My small lunch was a gigantic serving of perfect melon with extremely tasty slices of prosciuto! I managed to eat it all. Then, as we declined to order dessert, we were each served a tiny little lemon square that was also "on the house."
Hard to beat a lunch like that, and though we were far from hungry, we decided we had to try the gelato at Romano, directly across from San Francesco Church.
We hadn't had much gelato for some reason on this trip, but this place was touted by Rick Steves, so I was told. I'll always eat gelato (if forced, LOL) but somehow this trip all the gelato tasted like ice cream.
Now, unfortunately this day's report is getting awfully long, for which I apologize, but the report is not half as long as our trip back "home."
We set out to take another scenic route over some small mountain pass. Unfortunately each time it was John's turn to drive, we seemed to have "switchback day." This route was miles and miles of switchbacks through Urbania to Sansepolcro and then down the E45.
We must have driven 5 or 6 miles of switchbacks up to the very top of a small mountain, through what we decided was some sort of national park (no houses after we passed a little resort town called Borgo Pace.) At the very top, miles and miles after the last turn off, the road was totally blocked, with a small sign that simply said: "Chiuso." Poor John was totally out of LeMans mode by now, but back down the mountain we went, stopping in Borgo Pace to see what to do next.
We cute little old ladies got out of the car in the middle of the town, and started trying to explain ourselves to the cute little old ladies sitting on the benches. Pretty soon some of the men came over to get in on the fun.
Then another car full of people came, who apparently were also lost. Then some young people came along. Then we went in to the bar to use the facilities, because we thought this could go on for a long time. More lost cars showed up. I started taking photos of this charming little nowhere place, thinking about my next trip to Italy. FINALLY, one of the younger ladies pointed to the OPEN door of a building above which was the ubiquitous Italian sign for "Information" a large lower case "i."
Well, well, this was getting like a strange western movie where all the cast of characters ends up in some weird cafe, (you know the one.) But in this case, we got all the info we needed, didn't have to pay anyone to get out of town, and were actually home just barely before dark.
The trip home took exactly four hours instead of two, but, hey, who's counting??
PREVIEW OF TOMORROW:
ALMOST NOTHING HAPPENED BUT A FABULOUS MEAL
Jul 1st, 2010, 06:14 AM
#38
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JUNE 11 OUR LAST DAY AT THE LITTLE HOUSE
As the heat rose on this June day in the Upper Tiber Valley, we realized we really didn't want to do much at all, except enjoy our good luck and reflect on all the folks at Fodor's travel talk forums whose great ideas and answers had helped form this great week.
Here's a run-down:
You got us to Auto Europe
You got us to the Hilton Garden Inn just outside Bologna
You got us on the SBB site to get train ticket reservations to Milano
You made myriad other suggestion both in answer to my questions,and in reading various posters questions, answers and reports.
So, many thanks to all of you. -- and more thanks to come as we go on to the next week.
I think I'll start a new report for Week two.
But on this last day we sat in the piazza and drank capppucino - then forced ourselves to take a ride up to CITTA DI CASTELLO, which has a very pleasant medieval center and is not visited nearly enough, and doesn't get much press. We sat at a pleasant outdoor bar in the middle of the square and had a little bar sandwich -- then took a ride up a switchback (will we ever learn?) narrow road to Monte Santa Maria Tiburina for a look at this tiny town and its staggering views over the Upper Tiber Valley (they say there is a very good restaurant up here, but coming for dinner should be reserved for teetotalers.)
We sort of got lost getting back,(and this was on the flat part of the valley!) but in so doing, we managed to stop at a brand new but very attractive "strip mall" for directions, and stayed for gelato, air conditioning, and to watch a game of the World Cup! They also set us straight (which my map did NOT) on how few ways there are to cross the little Tiber in this area.
We had a last marvelous meal with our friends at the Locanda del Capitano: they always offer a glass of Prosecco (so civilized!) then we had carpaccio, followed by exquisite lamb chops, and we shared a dessert which they called "Chantilly" which was basically cream whipped in to clouds with a feullate (sort of airy cookie) on top, and which tasted like heaven.
This time I remembered the wine, because it was so memorable: a Rosso of Montefalco: Fattoria di Milziade Antano, 2007, from a fattoria in Bevagna.
Frustrating to think it is probably not available in the states.
This whole meal occurred on a terrace in a charming setting (facing flower-bedecked walls,) on a perfect summer evening in a tiny town in the middle of nowhere, but what a knockout nowhere it is!
Thus ends Chapter One of a great Italian holiday.
I'll post the next week, calling it "Thanks for 20 Wonderful....Part II"
As the heat rose on this June day in the Upper Tiber Valley, we realized we really didn't want to do much at all, except enjoy our good luck and reflect on all the folks at Fodor's travel talk forums whose great ideas and answers had helped form this great week.
Here's a run-down:
You got us to Auto Europe
You got us to the Hilton Garden Inn just outside Bologna
You got us on the SBB site to get train ticket reservations to Milano
You made myriad other suggestion both in answer to my questions,and in reading various posters questions, answers and reports.
So, many thanks to all of you. -- and more thanks to come as we go on to the next week.
I think I'll start a new report for Week two.
But on this last day we sat in the piazza and drank capppucino - then forced ourselves to take a ride up to CITTA DI CASTELLO, which has a very pleasant medieval center and is not visited nearly enough, and doesn't get much press. We sat at a pleasant outdoor bar in the middle of the square and had a little bar sandwich -- then took a ride up a switchback (will we ever learn?) narrow road to Monte Santa Maria Tiburina for a look at this tiny town and its staggering views over the Upper Tiber Valley (they say there is a very good restaurant up here, but coming for dinner should be reserved for teetotalers.)
We sort of got lost getting back,(and this was on the flat part of the valley!) but in so doing, we managed to stop at a brand new but very attractive "strip mall" for directions, and stayed for gelato, air conditioning, and to watch a game of the World Cup! They also set us straight (which my map did NOT) on how few ways there are to cross the little Tiber in this area.
We had a last marvelous meal with our friends at the Locanda del Capitano: they always offer a glass of Prosecco (so civilized!) then we had carpaccio, followed by exquisite lamb chops, and we shared a dessert which they called "Chantilly" which was basically cream whipped in to clouds with a feullate (sort of airy cookie) on top, and which tasted like heaven.
This time I remembered the wine, because it was so memorable: a Rosso of Montefalco: Fattoria di Milziade Antano, 2007, from a fattoria in Bevagna.
Frustrating to think it is probably not available in the states.
This whole meal occurred on a terrace in a charming setting (facing flower-bedecked walls,) on a perfect summer evening in a tiny town in the middle of nowhere, but what a knockout nowhere it is!
Thus ends Chapter One of a great Italian holiday.
I'll post the next week, calling it "Thanks for 20 Wonderful....Part II"
Jul 1st, 2010, 06:39 AM
#39
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I am really enjoying this report! Looking forward to more.
Dutchess county is a great place! I have many happy memories of drives over there from just over the hills to the northeast in Massachusetts.
Dutchess county is a great place! I have many happy memories of drives over there from just over the hills to the northeast in Massachusetts.
Jul 1st, 2010, 09:59 AM
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Thanks to all who have commented, and I'll be starting the next week's adventures in Part II
and Irishface: I have just as many memories of drives over the hills to Litchfield County and to the wonderful Berkshires!! thanks.
and Irishface: I have just as many memories of drives over the hills to Litchfield County and to the wonderful Berkshires!! thanks.
