lspon

My husband and I, along with our two teens (13 and 15) are planning a vacation to the Alps during the first two weeks of July. We enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking and mountain biking, and like to visit small towns and villages. Big city excursions, art museums and shopping are of limited interest to the kids. I had two ideas in mind:

1. Fly into Munich (from Montreal), rent a car, and stay in a rental apartment or home for one week in the Salzburg area, as a base for day trips. Ditch the car and make our way to the Bernese Oberland by train and do the same thing there (i.e. 1 week rental). Fly home from Zurich.

2. Forget about Austria and do a "classic" tour of Swizerland , changing hotel locations every 3 days or so. We would focus on outdoor attractions versus big city visits.

It's obvious that we are at the begining of planning this vacation and will fill in the details once we know which option to go for. We are also open to any other suggestions. This will most likely be our only visit to this region, as there are other European countries we would like to tour in the future. Thanks!

Jimingso

I'm no expert but it would be a shame to skip Munich if you're flying there. How about two days in Munich, three in Salzburg, and the rest in Switzerland? I assume you're not interested in Vienna?

lspon

Thanks for your prompt reply. You're correct in your assumption about Vienna. What interesting day trips from Munich could you suggest for teens who don't like big cities? Castles maybe?

seafox

spend your arrival night in Munich and plan to head down to Salburg later the next day. You'll be tired, but you can get a taste of the city in that time - visit a beer hall, maybe got toe Olympic park and take a brisk walk around the city the first morning. I would then spend 3 days in Salzburg, head West and perhaps thre days on the Arlberg/ Lake Konstanz are and then to Zurich. There are many hiking activity clubs in Europe - you may want to do some seraching to really narrow down the activities. While breathtaking, once you've climbed your third alp, you may want to do something a litle different....there are lots of forest hilikng trails in Southern Germany along the border and sailing on the lakes as well.

lspon

Thanks for you suggestions Seafox. Would you skip the Bernese Oberland area altogether?

Paragkash

1. Munich- Garmisch- Innsbruck- 3.5 hrs

OR

2. a ride that combines Cable railway from one point to Zugspitz and down by cable railway on the other side-- Fine mountain Scenery
Munich- Garmisch 1.15 min. -Garm- Eibsee- 40 min.
Eibsee- Zugspitz (10 min)
Zugspitz- Schneefernerhaus (4 min)
Schneefernerhaus- Garmiscsh ( 1.20 Hrs)
Garmisch
3. Scenic Rail trip via Fussen-- Superb alpine scenery, one of the most spectacular routes in Europe
day 1 - Munich Fussen- See the famous Castle
Day 2- Bus- Fussen- Ruette
Train- Ruette to Garmiscsh-
Then on to Innsbruck- Salzburg

4. Tegernsee & Schliersee- Small villages, beautiful lake, ruins of Hohenwaldeck castle-- Cable car to Rottach- Egern

5. Lots of options like a. Heidelburg b. Lindau c. Oberammergau

Don't miss dacau Concentration Camp

Have a great trip..

lspon

Thanks Paragksh. Got my Michelin map out and am following your route...

scatcat

I wouldn't skip the Bernese Oberland.

swandav2000

Hi lspon,

As you can see, there are really too many options, and not enough time. Never enough time!

I live in Garmisch now, and I've spent about 12 vacations in Switzerland since 1995. I can tell you that the mountains are more spectacular and dramatic in Switzerland, the Alpine villages are more pristine and practically perfect, and the car-free villages are especially unique and alluring. Switzerland can be more expensive though, while in less expensive Germany you can find charming Bavarian hotels or apartments at around 50 E/night.

I would suggest that you try to choose between Germany/Austria or Switzerland; either choice will be plenty for two weeks.

One tried-and-true route through Switzerland is to follow the Golden Pass route: Montreux (past Gstaad and Zweisimmen), Berner Oberland, Luzern, and Zürich, spending three or four days in each place.

If you wanted to spend two weeks in Germany/Austria, I would think about a week in Salzburg and then a week including Oberammergau, Mittenwald, and Tegernsee (haven't been there but really eager to go).

Good luck as you work it out!

s

lspon

Thanks so much Swandav. As you said, there are just too many options. I think you're right about choosing between Switzerland or Austria/Germany. It's just very tempting on a first-time European trip with the family to pack as much in as possible in 2 weeks (I know, a mistake)...

bobthenavigator

I agree with swandav--pick your option--they are really different trips. IF you choose the Munich option then you can easily fill 2 weeks at 3 destinations:
Arrive Munich--3 days

Get car---to Salzkammergut area--stay in St. Gilgen
Get an apartment for a week.

Drive to Bavarian castle country--I like Oberammergau as a base---3 nites

Drive to near Munich airport--drop car--fly home next day.

That is a fun 2 weeks--tons of good day trips from St. Gilgen to include Salzburg and Hallstatt

Search or a wonderful trip report from Betty Kubiak--the best.

Good luck !

lspon

Ugh! I was leaning toward Switzerland, but after reading Bob's itinerary, I'm tempted to go the Austria route. I'll have a look at Betty's report. Thanks!

Ingo

To give you more options (and to get you back to leaning towards Switzerland ) ...

Drive from Munich via Garmisch, Fernpass, Landeck up the Inn valley to the Upper Engadin (Pontresina or Sils) where you could easily spend two weeks, but one week is enough for you I guess. Day trips to Soglio, Guarda/Scuol, Bernina train, maybe even down to Lake Como/Italy.

Drive from the Engadin via Albula pass, Chur up the Vorder Rhine valley, Oberalp pass, Andermatt, Furka and Grimsel passes to the Bernese Oberland. Stay in Lauterbrunnen if you have a car and do day trips, hikes etc. Lake Thun with the castles, Beatus caves, Trümmelbach waterfalls etc. Will be fun for the kids.

I.

lspon

Thanks Ingo. If we were to stick with just Switzerland and follow your route, would it be better to fly in and out of Zurich (direct flight available from Montreal)and take the train everywhere? Or should a portion of the trip be done by rental car?

Ingo

You could easily do the whole trip by train although the (quite long for a day) trip from Engadin to Bernese Oberland is more conveniently done by car. That's what I did more often than just once. Maybe you can rent a car in St. Moritz and return it the same or next (would be safer time-wise) day in Interlaken.

And yes, flying into/out Zürich is to prefer.

enzian

We've taken a family group with several teenagers to Switzerland three times now. Each time we've done the "3 nights in each place" plan with hikes every day and short hops between our base villages. We haven't tried mountain biking yet, but the kids did rent Trotti-bikes once in Grindelwald and loved that. They have also enjoyed Rodelbahn (summer luge), ziplines (at a Dorffest), minigolf, and tennis on clay courts, in addition to all the hiking. And they love riding the trains. In short, they just plain love Switzerland.

Some of our favorite places are Rigi, Mürren, Grindelwald, Kandersteg/Oeschinensee, and Bettmeralp. You can visit all of those in a fairly compact trip, traveling by train and cablecar. We haven't made it to the Engadine yet, but with inspiratino from Ingo's evocative descriptions, I've made it a "must" for our next trip.

We've also enjoyed several stays at Garmisch-Partenkirchen, particularly the gorge ("Klamm") hikes, and the cabled path across the face of the Alpspitz. It is a much larger town than our favorite villages in Switzerland, however.

lspon

Thanks for your reply, Enzian. Your description sounds like the kind of trip our kids would really enjoy. Which base villages did you like the most and where did you stay (hotels)?

enzian

Hi lspon---I would be happy to describe our trips for you. Before I do, let me say that many people prefer the "week in one place" vacation. But ever since my first trip to Switzerland in 2001, we've enjoyed the 3-days-at-a-time trips, which gives us a chance to experience several different places. By keeping the distances between villages short, we minimize travel time. We also are quick at packing up for each move. And our kids seem to enjoy the change and the cance to see a number of different places.

I would be hard-pressed to name a favorite village--each has its good points and a place we have enjoyed staying. I'll just list them all:

Grindelwald---is criticized for being too full of tourists and tour busses. However, if you can overlook that, the town is nicely situated in a beautiful valley that offers lots of hiking, as well as other activities, like the Trotti-bikes, which are a cross between a mountain bike and a scooter---with good brakes. You take them up on the gondola and ride down on dirt/gravel paths. The town also offers a wide choice of shops and reataurants.

In Grindelwald, we have stayed at Hotel Residence, which has one- and two-bedroom apartments at a very reasonable price, in addition to standard hotel rooms. The 2-bdr. apartment was huge, by Swiss standards, and had a small balcony facing the mountains. We saved $$$by cooking our dinners when we stayed here.

Last time we booked at Hotel Cabana, which also has apartments, but is quite a bit nicer (and more expensive). We changed our plans and didn't actually stay there, but I would gladly try them again---they were very gracious in the reservation process. This one is located fairly close to the train station, with views up the the Eiger North Face.

I also think it would be fun to stay at Berghaus Bort, halfway up the First gondola, but that might not work as well for a family. Hotel Gletschgarten has a lot of fans here too, but we've not stayed there.

Wengen is on the other side of the Mannlichen ridge from Grindelwald. This is a lovely car-free village, with a number of hotels, a large sports complex with tennis courts, etc., and cows decorating the hillsides outside of town. Not as many hikes right from your door, but they are a short train or cablecar ride away. The one hike we did right from town was up to Kleine Scheidegg, which was lovely.

In Wengen we like Hotel Bären, which is reasonably-priced and is known for great food. It is basically a restaurant with some rooms (14 in all) rather than a full-service hotel. But Frau Brünner is a lovely hostess, and will greet you warmly at dinner while Herr Brünner works wonders i the kitchen. They have a family suite on the top floor (2 bedrooms and shared bathroom) but these lack a balcony. For your family, I'd be tempted to just get 2 adjoining rooms with a shared balcony.

Mürren---if I had to name a favorite, it would probably be Mürren, perched on the edge of the cliff above Lauterbrunnen. It is smaller than Wengen and higher in altitude, with some great hikes right from the village. The sports shop there rents mountain bikes and will give you suggestions and maps for rides suitable for your skill level. Our kids have enjoyed playing chess with the giant (2-foot) chess pieces on the square near the post office. WE aall also enjoy the cablecar ride up and down (especially the exciting one down from Gimmelwald, the tiny village just down the hill). There is a new climbing garden near Gimmelwald, but it was raining when we were in the area, so the kids didn't try it out.

In Mürren we stay in the apartment at Chalet Fontana, a B&B run by a delightful Englishwoman. The apartment (2 bedrooms plus dine-in kitchen, and a bathroom) is on the ground floor, with the B&B rooms above. Breakfast is included even if you are staying in the apartment, so you have a chance to meet other guests and get hiking recommendations from Denise. The grocery store is right across the "street" (remember this is a car-free village, so the only vehicles using the "street" are a few farmers' and shopkeepers' utility vehicles). There are also a couple of fun restaurants--Stäger Stübli for true Swiss specialties, or a surprisingly good Asian/mostly Chinese restaurant run by a couple from (I think) Singapore. He shops in Interlaken each day for fresh vegetables for the restaurant.

From this area we head to Kandersteg, a short (2 to 2.5 hours) away by train. This town is a base for international scouting, so it is full of kids age 12 to 17, staying at a large campsite near town. If a group happens to show up on a hike you are one, you may feel overwhelmed, but most of the time you won't notice their presence.

One of our favorite all-time hikes, the hike/climb up to Freundenhütte on a safe but improbable path carved from a cliff (and secured with cable where you want them) is here. The trailhead is at the lake above town, Oeschinensee. We stay there in a rustic mountain inn, Hotel Oeschinensee, and the kids stay in the dormitory (Matratzenlager) with other guest---or on occasion they have had the large, 30-bed room to themselves. The lake has a boat rental dock (row or paddleboats only) and is safe (but cold) for swimming. The Rodelbahn is a short walk from the lake, at the top of the chairlift that brings everyone up.

Check out photos at www.oeschinensee.ch (change to "summer" for photos).

If staying in a remote place like this Berghotel doesn't appeal, there are lots of choices in the town itself. Hotel Adler is friendly and moderately-priced, and has an apartment for families, although we've only stayed in the hotel rooms. The hotel has an indoor pool, and the town has a large public pool as well. One of our favorite things to do here is to walk the restricted road into the next valley, the remote and beautiful Gasterntal. You could rent bikes at the train station and bike in instead. We keep meaning to do that ourselves, but always run out of time.

Another village we always include in our trip is Bettmeralp, on the south side of the mountains, perched on a bench high above the Rhone Valley. It is reached by train and cablecar in 2 hours from Kandersteg. This is another car-free village, very family friendly, and with views into Italy and to the Matterhorn in the west. Hiking here generally takes up by one route or another to the top of the ridge behind the village, from which you can see the mighty Aletschgletscher, the largest glacier in Europe. You can traverse the slope above the glacier for miles on the trail, or even hire a guide to take you out onto the glacier itself. For phots of the village and the surrounding area, including the glacier, go to

www.bettmeralp.ch

We like Hotel Panorama here. They have a nice family room, the half-board meals are tasty and generous, and Rahel and Fredy are very kind hosts (but with limited English----it helps that I speak German here).

From Bettmeralp it is a 3-hour train ride back to Zurich to catch your plane home. You can check rail schedules at www.rail.ch---good for trip planning.

lspon

What a lovely surprise to wake up this morning and see such a detailed answer to my question. Thanks a million Enzian. Your descriptions have really helped make the planning process much easier for me. I'll have a fun afternoon looking up all your great suggestions. Thanks again!

enzian

You are most welcome.

I neglected to mention that kids 15 and under ride free on Swiss trains, cablecars, and boats, when traveling with parents. This makes train?boat/cablecar travel in Switzerland cost-effective, in comparison to renting a car, especially if you are staying in one of the car-free villages, where you would have to pay to store the car at a lot in the valley.