Slow Travels in Provence with My (Elderly) Mother
Nov 11th, 2005, 07:14 AM
#81
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Having read and heard over the years about the superior olive oil to be found in Maussane les Alpilles (and which we had never before been able to track down), Mother and I followed PB's suggestion to visit the Mas des Barres. In fact, the Mas is just down the road from PB's beautifully restored B&B and turned out to be as glorious as PB had advertised.
The Mas des Barres is everything you could dream an olive oil mill should be - set in an ancient stone building amidst bountiful trees dripping with figs and surrounded by groves of perfectly groomed olive trees, the Mas is enchanting. This is not your "run-of-the-mill" (sorry about that) mill; here you can taste and purchase gold medal winning olive oil (appearing to be the very essence of liquid gold), soaps in every shape and scent (including my new favorites: olive-shaped green/black soaps with stems), oil and vinegar cruets, tapenade, fleur de sel . . . And the understated owner is as helpful as he is unintrusive - hard to believe from a man who produces the #1 rated oil in the world!
Traveling on along a country road winding through the Alpille countryside around Mouries we happened upon the Mas de Gourgonnier - a delightful winery. Throughout Provence signs abound pointing down roads or up mountainsides advertising the wineries and caveaus at road's end. We have rarely followed these signs but the verdant acres of vines and olives surrounding the Mas de Gourgonnier were so inviting that we were magically transported up the drive and into their cave, compelled to find their own particular gift of nature.
Upon our arrival, we happily noted a number of new oak casks being prepared to hold the 2005 vintage - a good sign when compared to some of the wineries that now seem to rely almost entirely on the stainless steel vats. We bought a few bottles of their red wine and, upon later "tasting-aided" reflection, wondered why we hadn't had a case or two shipped home.
With wine bottle, chevre, baguette and fruit in hand, Mother and I pulled off the road for a most civilized car picnic - a meal that we have refined to its full glory! You simply can't resist a woman (like Mother) who is so secure in herself that having a chest covered with bread crumbs and chevre fragments doesn't phase her one bit!! She is reveling in the surrounding scenery, enjoying the mouth feel of herbed cheese and aged wine, and wondering aloud when we're going to "get to the really good stuff" (dessert in any form).
One can learn a lot from a Mother such as mine - live in the moment and you will surely have no later regrets!
The Mas des Barres is everything you could dream an olive oil mill should be - set in an ancient stone building amidst bountiful trees dripping with figs and surrounded by groves of perfectly groomed olive trees, the Mas is enchanting. This is not your "run-of-the-mill" (sorry about that) mill; here you can taste and purchase gold medal winning olive oil (appearing to be the very essence of liquid gold), soaps in every shape and scent (including my new favorites: olive-shaped green/black soaps with stems), oil and vinegar cruets, tapenade, fleur de sel . . . And the understated owner is as helpful as he is unintrusive - hard to believe from a man who produces the #1 rated oil in the world!
Traveling on along a country road winding through the Alpille countryside around Mouries we happened upon the Mas de Gourgonnier - a delightful winery. Throughout Provence signs abound pointing down roads or up mountainsides advertising the wineries and caveaus at road's end. We have rarely followed these signs but the verdant acres of vines and olives surrounding the Mas de Gourgonnier were so inviting that we were magically transported up the drive and into their cave, compelled to find their own particular gift of nature.
Upon our arrival, we happily noted a number of new oak casks being prepared to hold the 2005 vintage - a good sign when compared to some of the wineries that now seem to rely almost entirely on the stainless steel vats. We bought a few bottles of their red wine and, upon later "tasting-aided" reflection, wondered why we hadn't had a case or two shipped home.
With wine bottle, chevre, baguette and fruit in hand, Mother and I pulled off the road for a most civilized car picnic - a meal that we have refined to its full glory! You simply can't resist a woman (like Mother) who is so secure in herself that having a chest covered with bread crumbs and chevre fragments doesn't phase her one bit!! She is reveling in the surrounding scenery, enjoying the mouth feel of herbed cheese and aged wine, and wondering aloud when we're going to "get to the really good stuff" (dessert in any form).
One can learn a lot from a Mother such as mine - live in the moment and you will surely have no later regrets!
Nov 20th, 2005, 06:40 AM
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And you thought this thread had ended! Unfortunately, job hunting has taken up much time which would have been more pleasantly spent writing on Fodor's.
When you're young it seems that "bigger is (always) better," right? However, when you ripen with age (think Camembert) and are faced with certain physical inhibitors (knees/backs), you may find that "small" is just right.
In case you're wondering, I'm returning to an earlier thread in which I sorrowfully stated that the grand markets in St. Remy and L'Isle sur la Sorgue were too big to comfortably walk these days. But, just when you've given up on ever again experiencing these Provencal delights, you happen upon a small gem of a market - say in Maussane les Alpilles!
Returning mid-morning to our B&B in Maussane, we found the weekly market and a parking spot (destiny called). It was perhaps 1/8 the size of the St. Remy market but the perfect size for a short ramble amongst the stalls.
We immediately found a woven basket-type handbag for Mother, my favorite five-peppercorn mix and herbes de Provence, antique-looking quilted pillow covers, and artisan soaps.
Our greatest "find" was a vendor selling faux oils on canvas (some framed) depicting goats, roosters, chickens, and other barnyard life and some lovely fruit still lifes. They were almost facsimiles of pieces I'd drooled over in the Pierre Deux catalogue but at a quarter of the price - and they would only take up a little space in a suitcase!
But this was a "true" village market, replete with stalls filled with a generous selection of saucisson, bountiful mounds of brightly colored fruits and vegetables, braids of purple garlic, glistening rotisserie chickens, tubs of olives (with bits of red peppers, lemons, and herbs) and, of course, a seemingly unlimited variety of homemade cheeses. No wonder that France produces so many renowned chefs -they are simply inspired by the glorious produce surrounding them each and every day.
With arms full and memories stored away, Mother and I make our way back to the car - she happy as a lark with her handbag and soaps and me visualizing how great our barnyard art collection will look on the walls at home.
And, because of the relatively small size of this market, we still have the stamina to drop by one of the cafes for a salade Nicoise and glass of rose and plot our somewhat somnolent afternoon activities. Mother and I agree that life is truly grand!
,
When you're young it seems that "bigger is (always) better," right? However, when you ripen with age (think Camembert) and are faced with certain physical inhibitors (knees/backs), you may find that "small" is just right.
In case you're wondering, I'm returning to an earlier thread in which I sorrowfully stated that the grand markets in St. Remy and L'Isle sur la Sorgue were too big to comfortably walk these days. But, just when you've given up on ever again experiencing these Provencal delights, you happen upon a small gem of a market - say in Maussane les Alpilles!
Returning mid-morning to our B&B in Maussane, we found the weekly market and a parking spot (destiny called). It was perhaps 1/8 the size of the St. Remy market but the perfect size for a short ramble amongst the stalls.
We immediately found a woven basket-type handbag for Mother, my favorite five-peppercorn mix and herbes de Provence, antique-looking quilted pillow covers, and artisan soaps.
Our greatest "find" was a vendor selling faux oils on canvas (some framed) depicting goats, roosters, chickens, and other barnyard life and some lovely fruit still lifes. They were almost facsimiles of pieces I'd drooled over in the Pierre Deux catalogue but at a quarter of the price - and they would only take up a little space in a suitcase!
But this was a "true" village market, replete with stalls filled with a generous selection of saucisson, bountiful mounds of brightly colored fruits and vegetables, braids of purple garlic, glistening rotisserie chickens, tubs of olives (with bits of red peppers, lemons, and herbs) and, of course, a seemingly unlimited variety of homemade cheeses. No wonder that France produces so many renowned chefs -they are simply inspired by the glorious produce surrounding them each and every day.
With arms full and memories stored away, Mother and I make our way back to the car - she happy as a lark with her handbag and soaps and me visualizing how great our barnyard art collection will look on the walls at home.
And, because of the relatively small size of this market, we still have the stamina to drop by one of the cafes for a salade Nicoise and glass of rose and plot our somewhat somnolent afternoon activities. Mother and I agree that life is truly grand!
,
Nov 20th, 2005, 08:59 AM
#84
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Dear Lavande
Just discovered you post and i just had to write to tell you how much I enjoyed it and how many lovely memories it evoked of my own travels with my dear Mum who unfortunately passed away in 99. She to was a 'character' like your mum and I saw many echos of incidents in our own travels. your list of 'dos and donts' is right on the button and i could add;
Make sure your elderly parent knows where they put their passport well before the trip. My darling mum had alzheimers towards the end of her life but was very independant and i have vivid memeories of turning her house upside down looking for her passport just hours before departure. It finally came to light at the bottom of her underwear drawer. Her logic for putting it there was that if she was burgled a thief was unlikely to want to sift though her 'smalls' to find it!
I never begrudged any effort taking her away and i am so glad that I did as although she's gone I have such wonderful memories. A lot of people are put off taking elderly, perhaps mentally challenged relatives away on holiday, but I would say to them just do it. The benefits far outway the inconveniences of doing so and you will have memories to treasure forever.
Many thanks to you for bringing it all back to me.
regards
CM
Just discovered you post and i just had to write to tell you how much I enjoyed it and how many lovely memories it evoked of my own travels with my dear Mum who unfortunately passed away in 99. She to was a 'character' like your mum and I saw many echos of incidents in our own travels. your list of 'dos and donts' is right on the button and i could add;
Make sure your elderly parent knows where they put their passport well before the trip. My darling mum had alzheimers towards the end of her life but was very independant and i have vivid memeories of turning her house upside down looking for her passport just hours before departure. It finally came to light at the bottom of her underwear drawer. Her logic for putting it there was that if she was burgled a thief was unlikely to want to sift though her 'smalls' to find it!
I never begrudged any effort taking her away and i am so glad that I did as although she's gone I have such wonderful memories. A lot of people are put off taking elderly, perhaps mentally challenged relatives away on holiday, but I would say to them just do it. The benefits far outway the inconveniences of doing so and you will have memories to treasure forever.
Many thanks to you for bringing it all back to me.
regards
CM
Dec 6th, 2005, 06:14 AM
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It has now been two months since Mother and I returned from Provence and not a day goes without my inquiring about when we can return. Those of a more responsible nature would argue that traveling to Provence (avec Mama) while in the midst of a job search is most irresponsible. Those of us who look at the half full cup and see its potential to quench many thirsts see this as the most opportune time to return to Provence. Wouldn't you agree that the pros outweigh the cons? Unless unemployment raises its ugly head again (God forbid), this is one instance when I have time to spare and a very real desire to "run away" from it all. And, at 88 (and 3/4) years, Mother's schedule is extremely flexible. Wouldn't a breakfast of warm croissants and cafe au lait, or a lunch of salade Nicoise, or a dinner of roasted lamb offer certain restorative values?
Dec 6th, 2005, 03:53 PM
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Lavande, what a great report. I always treasure my trips with my mom, and only hope that I will eventually have the money to take my mom on all her dream trips (cruising around the world, staying at Icehotel in Sweden...).
But I admit it is quite exhausting after a while. Like you, I often need a stiff drink or another vacation to recharge!
But I admit it is quite exhausting after a while. Like you, I often need a stiff drink or another vacation to recharge!
Mar 15th, 2006, 11:20 AM
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What a lovely, lovely report. Sorry that I didn't see it last fall. What day of the week was the market at Maussane? And was your B&B at L'Oustaloun? I am planning for our trip next June and found it very helpful in knowing what to expect.
I was wondering about bugs. I see netting over many of the beds in hotel photos.
I was wondering about bugs. I see netting over many of the beds in hotel photos.
Mar 15th, 2006, 02:51 PM
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Ronda...
The market is Thursday morning here in Maussane. l'Oustaloun is a small hotel on the town square... if you don't stay there you should have dinner (they have tables on the square next to the fountain in fine weather)
Sometimes the netting is for decoration...but sometimes we do get some mosquitoes and not everyone has screens on their windows.
Patricia
The market is Thursday morning here in Maussane. l'Oustaloun is a small hotel on the town square... if you don't stay there you should have dinner (they have tables on the square next to the fountain in fine weather)
Sometimes the netting is for decoration...but sometimes we do get some mosquitoes and not everyone has screens on their windows.
Patricia
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