Siena Palio
Jan 30th, 2010, 05:09 AM
#1
Original Poster
Siena Palio
We'll be in Tuscany the last 10 days of June.
At this time the plan is for us to visit San Gimignano on June 28th, go to Siena late that afternoon, spend the evening of June 28th and June 29th in Siena and return to Florence by train on the evening of the 29th.
I just read that the Palio festivities begin on June 29th.
I can't decide if the pre-Palio crowds will be large enough on the 29th to make me want to change my plan.
We can leave it as is, go to Siena on the 28th and move on to San Gimignano the morning of the 29th or completely move that part of the trip to the 24/25th and be there about four days earlier.
I would appreciate any help from people whove been there at that time or know what to expect. Thanks.
At this time the plan is for us to visit San Gimignano on June 28th, go to Siena late that afternoon, spend the evening of June 28th and June 29th in Siena and return to Florence by train on the evening of the 29th.
I just read that the Palio festivities begin on June 29th.
I can't decide if the pre-Palio crowds will be large enough on the 29th to make me want to change my plan.
We can leave it as is, go to Siena on the 28th and move on to San Gimignano the morning of the 29th or completely move that part of the trip to the 24/25th and be there about four days earlier.
I would appreciate any help from people whove been there at that time or know what to expect. Thanks.
Jan 30th, 2010, 07:54 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The actual Palio is always July 2. There won't be significant activity, enough to spoil your plans, on the days you are there, just hauling in the dirt to make the track in the campo and some rituals around the contrade that will be mysterious to you. I don't think you have anything to worry about, though you may see some interesting activities.
Jan 31st, 2010, 05:04 PM
#4
I haven't been to Siena pre-Palio, but I researched a bit last year for a friend who ended up not going. Maybe this is the same info you've already found...
The morning of June 29th, the horses are selected and assigned to the different contrade. The first trial race is held in the afternoon.
On June 30th, trial races are held first thing in the morning (9-ish?) and in the evening (I think around 7:30 or 8:00). After the evening trial race, there's some sort of concert on or very near the Campo.
The morning of June 29th, the horses are selected and assigned to the different contrade. The first trial race is held in the afternoon.
On June 30th, trial races are held first thing in the morning (9-ish?) and in the evening (I think around 7:30 or 8:00). After the evening trial race, there's some sort of concert on or very near the Campo.
Jan 31st, 2010, 05:12 PM
#5
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 9,654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have been to Siena pre-Palio (and for the Palio) and would encourage you to try and experience some of the festivities. The streets become decorated with flags and painted light fixtures particular to each contrade (neighborhood.) Small and large parades with drummers and singers (and as you get closer to the day of the Palio costumed citizens) wind through the streets at different times. Pre-trial races are held in the Campo and the mood of the town becomes increasingly excited. As long as you have reserved a hotel I don't think the crowds will be that overwhelming.
Jan 31st, 2010, 11:47 PM
#6
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes I think it is a must. The whole town is very festive - and there are some open air dinners that are public, inexpensive, and amazing (you will also see some streets lined with tables and chairs but these are for the residents). It is a great time to be there -
Feb 1st, 2010, 03:37 AM
#7
Original Poster
My main concern is that after seeing photos of the Campo for many years, and now finally getting there, it will be a pile of dirt.
I'd really like to see it as it usually is.
Still not decided.
Help.
I'd really like to see it as it usually is.
Still not decided.
Help.
Feb 1st, 2010, 05:05 AM
#8
Myer - I haven't been pre Palio, but have spent quite a lot of time in Siena. It is not too much of an exageration to say that the Senese eat, sleep and breath the Palio - it is almost the reason for their existance.
This isn't some quaint festival to entertain the tourists, this is what life in Siena is all about: Preparing for, participating in and celebrating the Palio. It has been ongoing for hundreds of years and every Siena born resident is deeply proud of their contrade and traditions.
I don't think the dirt will detract too much from your enjoyment. The campo will remain spectacular and any festivities will only enhance the city.
This isn't some quaint festival to entertain the tourists, this is what life in Siena is all about: Preparing for, participating in and celebrating the Palio. It has been ongoing for hundreds of years and every Siena born resident is deeply proud of their contrade and traditions.
I don't think the dirt will detract too much from your enjoyment. The campo will remain spectacular and any festivities will only enhance the city.
Feb 1st, 2010, 07:14 AM
#9
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Palio is another case of the usual Italian generalisation - all show and no substance.
In our experience the lead up to the event was spectacular with each contrade feasting in the streets then parading round with bands and all. All atmosphere and very colourful.
The race itself is all about tens of thousands of sweaty tourists waiting for a non event. The race takes no time at all and you are lucky if you can see anything. Not much return for a 4 hour wait in 35oC.
I cannot honestly say that we have never found the crowds a problem unless of course you want a quiet coffee on Il Campo on race day. Parking always seems very easy south of the walls near the old hospital. In 6 trips I have never failed to get parked there within 5 minutes.
In our experience the lead up to the event was spectacular with each contrade feasting in the streets then parading round with bands and all. All atmosphere and very colourful.
The race itself is all about tens of thousands of sweaty tourists waiting for a non event. The race takes no time at all and you are lucky if you can see anything. Not much return for a 4 hour wait in 35oC.
I cannot honestly say that we have never found the crowds a problem unless of course you want a quiet coffee on Il Campo on race day. Parking always seems very easy south of the walls near the old hospital. In 6 trips I have never failed to get parked there within 5 minutes.
Feb 1st, 2010, 08:56 AM
#10
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 9,654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Myer, the whole Campo does not become "a pile of dirt." Dirt is neatly laid around the perimeter of the Campo forming a track where the horses will run. I don't think it detracts from the beauty of the Campo.
Visiting Siena pre-Palio will allow you to experience a unique part of Italian culture that originates from medieval times. What I particularly liked was that the Palio is not celebrated to encourage tourists to visit. It is a celebration by and for the people of Siena but tourists are welcome to experience it as well. I would imagine the Sienese would consider the Palio as much a part of Siena as the buildings that have been there for all of these years.
I have also visited Siena (can you tell I like the city?) during non-Palio times and it just wasn't as interesting for me then. Yes, it was beautiful and a bit less crowded but I missed the flags flying, hearing the drummers practicing and the excitement in the air.
Visiting Siena pre-Palio will allow you to experience a unique part of Italian culture that originates from medieval times. What I particularly liked was that the Palio is not celebrated to encourage tourists to visit. It is a celebration by and for the people of Siena but tourists are welcome to experience it as well. I would imagine the Sienese would consider the Palio as much a part of Siena as the buildings that have been there for all of these years.
I have also visited Siena (can you tell I like the city?) during non-Palio times and it just wasn't as interesting for me then. Yes, it was beautiful and a bit less crowded but I missed the flags flying, hearing the drummers practicing and the excitement in the air.
Feb 1st, 2010, 10:00 AM
#11
Original Poster
I've changed my mind three times. And that's only today.
KTtravel, your description of what the Campo will look like is tempting me to leave my plan as is and be there on june 29th.
I'll see if any other posts sway me.
KTtravel, your description of what the Campo will look like is tempting me to leave my plan as is and be there on june 29th.
I'll see if any other posts sway me.
Jul 30th, 2011, 10:43 AM
#12
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was in Siena by chance the day of the Palio in August of 2009. It was an amazing experience. Not only did we enjoy the celebratory mood of the town, we watched the race from the comfort of a bar witha cold beer amid the cheering crowd and while eating dinner a short time after the race ended, the riders and the winning horse ran down the street to the church for the blessing, directly past where we were dining. It was very exciting! My group was blown away at our good fortune and we had an awesome day.
It is hot and crowded, so be prepared. But, remind yourself...this is Siena and I'm in the midst of one of Tuscany's greatest events. It's a once in a lifetime experience. I would not pass it up.
It is hot and crowded, so be prepared. But, remind yourself...this is Siena and I'm in the midst of one of Tuscany's greatest events. It's a once in a lifetime experience. I would not pass it up.
